RoadsterRich

Does anyone have experience with how furniture wax will react in direct sunlight outdoors? Just a concern about its durability, would not be fun to have wax runs on the leather. I'd suggest if it does seem to fill the holes in some scraps, you also try putting a piece vertically in a hot (like a sunny summer day) environment and check out its durability and elasticity (not to mention liquification) before applying to the upholstery. Just my paranoias worth... Rich

Peter, Awesome feature. I sure hope it works out. Personally I think it is a great addition, hope others agree, and use it as well. What a great way to check each others toys (and more!) out. Not to mention the research value when looking for a picture of a particular car. The potential uses are infinite. As always, thanks for all your time, hard work, and patience! Rich

Ken, I am no expert at all though I have worked with leather on various projects. I have a bit of scrap leather around, I've never attempted to 'obscure' holes, however what I can do is take some of the scrap, create similar damage and tinker with various ideas and see if we can come up with something that will work. I imagine no matter what it is going to be noticeable, just less noticeable than the holes themselves. I'll have a go at some thoughts this weekend and see if any work. If they look like they might be successful I can send you the scraps with the patch(es) and a description of the method(s) used, you can see what you think. I don't mind trying other folks ideas out as well, assuming I can afford to <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" />. Not sure I can help, but certainly willing to try. Rich

I am in the same position, just learning about welding. I have been leanint towards one of the MIG units that can work with the shielding gas or self shielding. They cost a little more but are more versatile as well. I had been hoping to find a used one, but they same to be kept once purchased. I've noticed that there is a huge difference in price between similarly rated units of differing brands as well. I too would like to see some recommendations for brand, as well as features and capabilities. Rich

Got to meet Al Saturday at the MOB Super Swap. We didn't get much time to chat, but was great to meet a fellow DF'er. Unfortunately neither the Chrysler or the Suburban were at the meet. Transmission failed catastrophically on the Suburban about 4PM on Friday on I-95. All in all had a good time at the swap meet, despite the cold weather and gusty winds. Didn't sell much, but then again the meets tend to be more muscle car oriented. Met some other great folks, and the grandson got to ride in the sidecar on a WWII BSA British Military Motorcycle. Sure hope I get to meet more of the DF'ers in March in Orlando, or April in Cocoa at the Cape Canaveral Region's 'Spring Celebration of Cars' show. Ramblin Roadster Rich (Fits better huh?)

Al, You are probably on your way now... but I will be there tomorrow morning bright and early. I will have a vendor 'booth', though I'm not sure where it will be. If they will let me park the Suburban in/by my spaces (I think I ended up getting two of the 20'x20' areas) then there will be a big silver with dark blue accents Suburban parked nearby. It has a fiberglass topper on it, making it quite distinctive. If they don't let me park in/by my space you will likely spot me by looking for the guy with all the parts spread out on blue tarps, and in 22 gallon rubbermaid bins. I'll be there with Colleen & the grandson (he's 5, he'll be doing most of the selling probably <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> . Not sure how much Mopar parts I'll have with me, but there are sure to be some. If I don't bring what you want with me, but possibly have it, we can always slip over to the house. The Super-8 Melbourne is just a few miles from my house. It is at US-1 and US-192, I live close to Babcock & US-1, not far at all. The vast majority of my parts are for 1930 Chryslers, with some going back to about 1928, and some going forward towards the mid 1930's. I'll also be bringing loads of late 30's Cadillac parts (complete dashes w/gauges, air cleaners, chrome bits and more, also bits and pieces from 30's Ford Flatheads, early 30's Chevy and Buick, mid 60's Vettes, and stuff. Mostly Cadillac stuff, but one never knows what one will find in the bins... Sure hope to see you, and perhaps a few other DF'ers there! Have a safe trip, look forward to meeting you. Rich PS: Here is a visual of me, hope it doesn't break your monitor!

Mopars of Brevard is holding it's 4th Annual "Super Swap", swap meet and car show. The event is at Wickham Park Pavilion on Wickham Road, in Melbourne Florida, just south of Brevard Community College. It will be held Saturday January 25th from 8AM to 4PM rain or shine. Vendors and cars of all makes are welcome as is the general public. Vendor spaces are $15 for 20'x20', Car Display and Car Corral are $5 per car. Dash plaques are given to the first 100 registrants, as well as a goodie bag. There is no charge for the public. There will be plenty of cars, plenty of parts, so come on out and enjoy the day with the <span style="font-style: italic">The Mob</span> . The registration form and further details are available at: http://www.spacey.net/cconnor/swap.htm .

Depending on how much driving you want to do here are the 'antique' auto museums/attractions around Florida that I am aware of. From Mickey these range from about 1.5 hours to 2.5 hours driving time, there is also a Museum in Tallahasee as well, however unless you are driving down through the panhandle the time to get there would be excessive from Orlando. You can always hop down US-192 to Melbourne (I'm a few miles west of the beaches) and say "Hello" to me, no museum, but I do have a garage full of 1930 Chrysler 77 parts (enough to make about 1 1/2 cars at least it seems). Also have stored away at the girlfriends down south, a 1959 Mk IX Jaguar Saloon and a trailer full of 39/40 Cadillac Parts, 40's/50's Chevy Parts, 30's Flathead Ford Parts, Model A Ford parts and mid 60's Corvette parts. Not much to see, but always a good welcome. Birthplace of Speed Museum, 386-672-5657, 160 E. Granada Blvd Ormond Beach A collection of Corvettes from every year since 1953 is the centerpiece of Klassix Auto Museum, Daytona Beach's newest attraction. Complementing the extensive Corvette collection are era period sets and scenery depicting the role the automobile has played in American sub-culture and history. A specialty area is dedicated to the heritage of racing history in Daytona Beach. Additional areas include a "Bike Week" scene dedicated to the motorcycle and displays of other Classic cars, and race cars. A motorsports memorabilia/gift shop plus a 50's era soda fountain/ice cream parlor augment the facility. For race enthusiasts who want to trace the rich history of auto racing in Daytona Beach, racing memorabilia can be found at the Halifax Historical Museum in downtown Daytona Beach. A new attraction is the Gallery of Legends, walls of photographs that trace the history of racing in Daytona Beach at the Visitor's Center at the Daytona International Speedway. Don Garlits Museum of Drag Racing, 877-271-3278, 13700 SW 16th Ave, Ocala Florida. Welcome to Big Daddy?s Museum of Drag Racing and Museum of Classic Automobiles. We have two museums at one location, ticket pricing is for both Museums. The Museums are open daily (except for Christmas) from 9:00 am to 5:00 pm Eastern Time. Sarasota Classic Car Museum, 941-355-6228, 5500 N Tamiami Trail, Sarasota Florida. Located on U.S. 41 in Sarasota, Florida, the Museum?s 60,000 square foot facility sits on 4 acres of land near such good neighbors as The Ringling Museum of Art and the Asolo Theater, home of the Sarasota Ballet Company. The SCCM is a Museum by day and a Banquet and Event Facility by night. A 4,000 square foot open-air garden Atrium in the center of the Museum is used for dining and dancing amidst the car collection. A huge Gift Shop filled with an eclectic assortment of collectibles rounds out the facility. The entire facility is "wheelchair friendly" and free wheelchairs are available for visitors. The Museum features a ?living? collection of over 100 automobiles, constantly being updated through acquisitions, exchanges with other car museums, and through donations of vehicles from collectors. The collection spans over 100 manufacturing years. Almost every letter of the alphabet is covered: Auburn, Bentley, Cadillac station wagon (one of only 5 ever made), DeLorean, Edsel, Ferrari, etc. Vintage, classic, muscle, exotic cars?.they?re all here. We have John Lennon?s Mercedes Roadster and a dragster belonging to Don Garlits among our favorite treasures. Hope the information helps, Rich

Ron, I plan to be there, along with Colleen, and maybe with luck the grandson too. Grandson (5 years old) tells everyone we take him on the 'Greatest Adventures'. This coming weekend he will be helping us sell parts at the local annual Mopar Super Swap Meet IV. Hope they don't mind all the 39/40 Cadillac Parts, 40's/50's Chevy Parts, 30's Flathead Ford Parts, and the Corvette parts <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> Rich

Thanks for the information! I have passed it on to Pedro, with luck he'll find what he is looking for. He is a relatively new AACA member, trying to show him the power of the forums, and the club as a whole. Thanks again, Rich

Only thing wrong with the address was an extra period "." at the end. However here is the image in question: Hope this helps, Rich

Posting for a friend with a 1935 Riley 9 Lincock. He is looking (and has been for some time) for a set of points. Anyone have a go at where to point him to find them? As always any and all help apprecited... Rich

The serial number places it as a 1932 CI. The engine number is most likely CI4825, with the second digit being an I rather than a 1. The serial number also indicates that it was a Detroit built car, rather than a Canadian built car. Hope the information helps. Rich

Ooops! Colleen pointed out a serious error in my original posting. What I actually received for Christmas was permission to buy Colleen a 1959 Mk IX Jaguar, not the car itself, and hey wait a sec! When did it become her car???. Darn Semantics! Rich

Of note... One of those Tyco Tiny remote control cars A Kaleidoscope (repro of an antique) A multicolored plasma lightning lamp A 1959 Jaguar Mk IX Saloon (no not a model!) Rich PS: Guess I have to add the Jaguar to the tag line now huh?

Don't feel too bad, you're not alone, missed mine too. Awaiting the answer... Rich

Romar, In my search for this information I have found there is a great deal of disagreement, though everyone seems to have their own definite opinion of what is correct. The Walter P. Chrysler club publishes a document which lists the engines as black with a silver head (if silverdome) or red head (if red head). However they also list exceptions to this color scheme, in particular they list a SilverGreen that was used on the Imperials as having been used on 'some' chrysler 4's and 6's through the early 30's. I have 3 blocks for a 1930 Chrysler 77, one of them appears to be all original and is silver green. Another one is painted silver green, but this is over red which is over grey. The third one is black, over red, over silver green. I have been told that the AACA and WPC accept the black blocks as original. In the case of the 1930 Chrysler 77, I have seen a 50/50 mix, however all of the engines that were reportedly original were Silver Green, and all of the engines reportedly rebuilt or restored were black or red. I am no expert, I've been trying to get a definitive answer to this question for over a year. While it would be simpler to go with the flow and paint my block black, it appears to have originally been silver-green. My personal preference based on this is to paint it back to the silver-green. Unfortunately I have yet to find anyone who has the codes or the paint for the silver-green. I may eventually be forced to live with the black due to my inability to get the proper engine enamel color. If you know where to find the silver-green I'd greatly appreciate the information. Well I doubt I have answered your question but put simply as I understand it: Black is universally accepted but may or may not be original. Silver-Green may or may not be original for a given engine and causes discontent with many self appointed 'authorities'. For me, I want my car as original as possible to what it originally was, I'm less concerned about the AACA/WPC/VMCCA or any other organization and more concerned with the preservation of the vehicle as it was originally produced. My two cents (and then some) worth. Hope I've at least helped out some, if not confused a great deal. Rich PS: The wpc paint list can be found at: WPC Engine Color Chart

Vern, I have yet to find a shop manual for the 1930 Chryslers. I do have a copies of two different parts manuals which cover the cars, but they do not contain service information per se. They do have some exploded views and the parts lists can help with understanding, but there are not specifications and only Chrysler part numbers for the most part. I have been told you can pick them up at flea markets/car shows with some regularity. One is a 3 volume set that covers 1929-1939, the other is a one volume set that covers 1924-1934 (as I recall). Also they are available on CD from a Chrysler authorized source, but they are not cheap on CD. If you need the contact information let me know, I'll dig it out for you. Rich

I whole heartedly agree with Tod. I have on more than one ocassion put more effort, time and finances in to a vehicle than many would think appropriate. If you "love" a vehicle, it becomes an emotional (irrational? ) issue, rather than a straight dollars and sense issue (yes I meant sense, not cents ). As Tod stated, start with the safety issues, move to the comfort and beauty issues later. While you may not be able to afford to fix all of the issues right now, you may well be able to afford to 'preserve' it's state, that is to make it functional, safe, and keep it from further deterioration. I am working on a restoration I really can't afford, so I know first hand of this. I lept before I looked, I got more work than I bargained for, and a much rarer (harder to find parts for) vehicle than I realized. While I have had a few gut wrenching realization moments, I keep on pouring my spare time, and spare change in to the restoration. I find myself learning many new (not always fun mind you) things as I try to do as much of the work as I can myself. In the end I think I will have a great car, a great story, and a highly rewarding (albeit sometimes frustrating) experience. Sometimes we just have to go with our heart, rather than our brain. Having said all of that, the only thing I would say is, always remember your priorities... which in my book means the family comes before the car getting worked on. Rich PS: Obesessions are great things when taken in moderation.

Pete, you know I always appreciate the technical information this forum provides, however, you went off half cocked on subject matter that was not at question. I had already hashed over the new/old/repaired radiator issue some time back in a lengthy heated post. The questions here were directed at determining if the radiator was originally honeycomb or some other style. Absolutely no reference was made to using (or not using) the radiators I have at hand. My question simply was, which style radiator was used on my car. I got some information from the posts in this thread, and that is greatly appreciated. I also appreciate the many opinions on restoration, preservation, safety and functional aspects, however what I really wanted to know was simply what was a ribbon radiator, and should my car use a honeycomb or some other style of radiator. Rich

Back in the ole days they made great spark coils for spark transmitting radio's as well, for the low budget home radio experimenter. Quite a few articles were written about this. Of course spark transmitting would likely land you in a heap of trouble with the FCC these days. I remember hearing stories as a kid about folks hooking one up to the bumper of their car and kissing bumpers of the car in front of them to give folks a shock, and lots of other shocking stories. Most of I imagine were tall, or perhaps not so tall tales as well. I remember digging one up in the mid 60's along with a magneto magnet and a spark plug in the field by the house. At the time it was a neat find. Still have the magnet and the spark coil, not sure what happened to the spark plug over the years. Probably lost in a move, or still buried in a box in a closet. Not like I'm a packrat mind you... Rich

Hi gang, It's me again with more esoteric questions. I've been really pouring over all the literature, pictures and information I can find on the Chrysler 77, to aid in my restoration. I found a period article that discusses the car and in particular it's radiator. It states that Chrysler switched to using a 'ribbon' radiator for the 77. The production pictures I got from Chrysler do not show enough detail to see the radiator. I have assumed this was a honeycomb radiator, I have two radiators for the car, one is what I thought to be a more modern style, and the other the honeycomb style. Now the question is, what is a ribbon radiator? Is it more akin to the modern radiators, or yet something different? Also is it possible that Chrysler did use the ribbon style radiator in 1930 cars? The article clearly states they were used in the L80 and the 77 for 1930. I found one other reference that lists specifically the L80 as having a ribbon radiator but does not mention the 77. At least adding credence to Chrysler having used them in 1930. So to recap, the real questions are: 1) What is a ribbon radiator? 2) When were ribbon radiators introduced? 3) When did Chrysler begin using ribbon radiators? 4) Is it possible, or probable that my car may have had a ribbon radiator? 5) How can I tell if a radiator I have is a 'ribbon' radiator? Thanks, Rich

Scott, The 75 had the single action 'strap' style shocks, I believe? My 77 has the mounts for the double action style shocks with linkage rather than straps. Seems that the 1930 models had quite a few innovations in them, unfortunately many were either discontinued or replaced with more innovations within the next year or two. I did talk with Ed, looks like I'll be helping him out with a few parts. I had been in touch with Steele, was hoping there was a more affordable solution, but looks like they are it. I may have to take a second job just to afford the pieces parts for the 77 at this rate. Though my inventory of spare parts is growing. Sure can't wait to get the car on the road, unfortunately I believe that is a good year away or more. Rich