RoadsterRich

Well in a follow up... Bob Turnquist at Hibernia was unable to provide any information on the paint. He spent a bit of time and effort on his part and his staff's part trying to help me out. He called me back to tell me they were unable to locate any of the paint, or the records as to where they obtained the paint. Apparently it had been some time ago, and many of the folks involved were no longer with the company. While I am dissapointed, I must admit the courtesy and prompt response, as well as extra efforts provided by both Bob Turnquist at Hibernia and Bill Hirsch at Hirsch Auto certainly attest to the quality of people that are involved with restorations. To end on a positive note, Bob Turnquist did give me yet another lead to someone who has restored an Imperial engine with the proper color. I'm off to track it down, I'll report my progress as it unfolds... Thanks everyone, and in the meantime if anyone has any new ideas please let me know! Rich

I'm trying to understand the shock absorber numbering scheme used on Delco Lovejoy shocks. When I look up my 1930 Chrysler 77 in the Chrysler Master Parts List from October 1939, I find the following listed shocks (By Vender No.): Front Left: <ul style="list-style-type: disc">[*]1507H2D [*]1610Y3GG4 [*]1600B1GG2 [*]1600Y1GG2 Front Right: <ul style="list-style-type: disc">[*]1507G2D [*]1610X3GG4 [*]1600A1GG2 [*]1600X1GG2 Rear Left: <ul style="list-style-type: disc">[*]1515K2D [*]1610P3GG4 [*]1600F1GG2 [*]1610P1GG2 Rear Right: <ul style="list-style-type: disc">[*]1515J2D [*]1610N3GG4 [*]1600E1GG2 [*]1610N1GG2 I purchased a set of shocks from a reputedly reputable source, which the seller swore were for the Chrysler 77. These shocks are labeled: "Delco-Lovejoy" "Duodraulic" "Made In USA" The only part numbers I could find were cast in to the cases: <ul style="list-style-type: disc">[*]XR1-39772 [*]XR3-39772 [*]R4-39579 [*]XR4-39579 Is it possible these are the same as some of the shocks above, or was my vendor 'mistaken.' I know that Chrysler switched from the single action to the double action shocks early in the production year. Also that different shocks were used on export models than on domestic models. What I don't know is if my car was an export model or not. It spent at least part of it's life in South America, has metric gauges, but left hand drive, so very possibly an export? Thanks, Rich

Hindsight is 20/20, I feel for the loss. Hopefully a few of us can learn a little and at least reduce the chance of it happening to us, and maybe others as well. Rich

Well, my first instinct was a Model 5, however, on further investigation, the model 5 had no 'tone' control. Most of the other models of that vintage had seperate speakers, and/or seperate power supplies, many used a dynamotor assembly to generate the HV, while others used a vibrator. The vibrator style was only integrated in the Model 5, that I can recall. The model 9 had a tone control (2 or 3 position switch), but it had external speaker and used an external power supply (originally a dynamotor, later supersceded by a vibrator unit). The model 3 was battery only, no tone control, seperate speaker. The model 5 and 6 had no tone control, 5 had integrated speaker & vibrator power supply internal, the 6 had external speaker and an external Dynamo power supply. The Model 7 had external speaker, w/tone control, but used a battery power supply. The models 8 and 12 both were designed for Dynamotor supplies, but later could be retrofitted with the external vibrator supply, and again had external speakers. So far, I don't have a definite answer, just more questions. I'll keep digging, that information came from the October 1933 Philco Wiring Diagrams & Parts List. I'll dig out the individual Philco service bulletins as time allows. Rich

Chuck, Thanks again! Bob Turnquist does not produce engine paints, however he did restore a 31 Imperial using the same 'green' paint. They are researching it now, hopefully they can point me in the right direction. If his restorations are half as good as he is friendly, courteous and helpful, they must be a sight to behold. Rich

Well got a personal message from Bill, he says he never made the silver-green, was a very nice letter. Must have just been a bad day for whoever I talked to on the phone. I'll try Bob Turnquist next. Thanks for the leads. Have to give Bill credit, he did take the time to personally let me know that the color was one he has never made. Definitely moved him back up a few notches in the impressed with category. My first call must have been a fluke. Rich

Thanks for the tip on Bill Hirsch. When I contacted them (Edited note: MAJOR MISTAKE HERE, my brain must have been at lunch, it was Eastwood that was not helpful at all, NOT Bill Hirsch) the salesperson that answered told me they did not offer such a color, nor were they in the business of providing color codes. Guess times have changed. I did find out from another source that the color is referred to as "Silver Green" and was used on 1930-34 Imperial 8's, as well as some 24-30 Chrysler 4's and 6's. So far it is all I have to go on, maybe I just didn't get the right person on the phone at Hirsch Auto (Edited note: Obviously not, as it wasn't them I called! DOH!), but I sure was not impressed by the person I did get. Any other leads would be most greatfully accepted. Rich

Jpeg1, That would be the same radio. In my piles of 'papers', I have an original sales brochure and an original installation manual for it. Just need the darn radio. There were a relatively small number made prior to Philco's acquisition of Transitone. From what I gather the quality of audio and reception was less than spectacular. My dash has the mounting brackets for the radio, and the proper hole for it, but alas no radio or wiring. Rich

Does anyone know of a source for, or the proper color codes for the engine enamel on a 1930 Chrysler L80? From the looks of things this was orginally a greenish-grayish-bluish color? (Well it is more green, but has some blue and grey tint to it). Any information would be greatly appreciated. Rich

I can't say if it is correct for your application or not. From previous posts in other forums, here is some information I collected on the 600W oil. Note that many of these may be available from multiple sources including dealers local to you. The companies provided were provided in the original posts this information was obtained from. Lubriplate SPO-299 is a 600W equivalent available through Restoration Supply Co. in Reno, NV. PH: 775-825-5663 (and often local sources, I'd check around locally first.) Havoline 140 GL-4 is a 600W. It has to be GL-4 or it attacks brass/bronze. Virtually any Model T or Model A restoration supplier should have the 600W oil. They use it in the rearend or so I am told. Penrite oil market TRANSOIL 250 as a 600w gear oil. Penrite oil is now being sold in the USA by Classic Auto Lubes Tel 903 561 4858. I cannot personally vouch for any of this, I have been keeping notes as my car also uses the 600W oil. You can do a search on the AACA Technical Discussion Forum and find several references to 600W oil. Hope this helps, Rich

I'll pull out the references and see what I can find. You can find the 'other' reason I have no life or spare time at... Nostalgia Air May take me a few days to dig through and see what I have. I'm looking for a Transitone (Pre Philco) for my Chrysler. I have the Chrysler brochure for the Transitone Radio listing it as a factory option for the 1930 Chrysler 77. I have numerous Atwater Kents, including an original in the shipping crate AK 10B breadboard, complete with original invoices, tags, tubes etc. The radio collection far exceeds the auto obession thus far, then again I have been collecting radio's since 1975, and cars since 2001. I have several hundred radio's and hundreds of pieces of test equipment from the 20's and 30's. As well as a room (or two) full of service manuals, advertisements and literature for radio's. I doubt I'll ever reach that many cars, come to think of it, I don't want to! Rich

Thanks for the information. The description does sound about right. I don't have the car or the ignition system, I have a "care and maintenance" manual for one, Form No. 155 3-21-17-25M. Makes me wonder if the 3-21-17 would be a print date, and the 25M would be a run size. Back then as I recall M was 1000, not like today where M is often used for Million, which would translate to 25,000 copies. Probably reading way too much information in to those numbers, but I love to learn about things. The description and information is very interesting reading. It says it is: DELCO INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE CARE AND MAINTENANCE OF THE DELCO IGNITION SYSTEM ON DODGE BROTHERS MOTOR CARS Sixth Edition Thanks again for the information, Rich

Is it a single unit with the speaker, tuner and amplifier in a single case with a remote head for tuning/volume/locking, or is it a multi-unit system with a seperate amplifier from the tuner assembly? I have some information on the early Transitones, in my other life I collect antique radio's. Rich

Oops, should have read all the posts before starting to respond. The point where the stud broke appears to have crystalized. It doesn't show so much rust type corrosion as it does more of what I would think of as fatique. I know the head had been repaired in the past, and the block looks like it has been rebuilt at least once. I suspect that the head has been off more than once in the past. Rich

Okay, on the 'weld a nut' method, I have a question. Can I use a slightly smaller diameter thread on the nut to weld on to the stud? This one is broken dead flush with the head and I am very nervous about welding the nut to the block instead of the bolt. I figure if I use a slightly smaller one then I am less likely to weld the stud and nut to the block. Assuming I go this route I just have to get better at welding or find someone that is Rich

What Dodge Brothers motor car used the Dayton Engineering Laboratories Co. (Delco) 5151 Distributor? It would be for a 4 cylinder engine, the coil is mounted to the distributor assembly and would have had an odd shaped resistance unit on it. The drive shaft came in to the side of the housing, rather than from the bottom. Any information is greatly appreciated. Rich

Hey Gang, its me again... Finally got over the lack of free time since (and the frustration of) the last round of work I did on the Roadster. As you may (or may not) recall when last I reported in one of the studs for the head broke while I was removing it. I am now preparing to try to extract the stud. The stud broke (with virtually no force on it) flush with the top of the head. The bottom of the stud goes in to the water jacket and there is well over an inch (possibly 2) of clearance beneath it. The stud is 7/16" Coarse thread in the block, roughly 3/4" of the stud remains in the block. What is the best method for removal of this stud? I have been told that Rockporte (sp?) makes a spline extractor that is far superior to easy-outs. Is it really better and if so where is the best place to get one? Is there a better tool/method to use for extracting this bolt? I know the trick of center-punching the threaded part to get the drill centered, are there any tricks for keeping the drill straight? Besides using oil when drilling, and using a reverse (left hand?) drill bit, is there any other useful drilling tricks? Should I attempt to heat the stud piece before trying to remove it? I have been soaking it in PB, is there anything else I should do while learning what I need to do to get it out? Well that should be a good start on the questions and information, any thoughts, ideas, input or suggestions are gratefully accepted. Rich

Ron, Here's the post of your picture as promised. Hope this helps you find what you need. Rich

One litre is approximately 61 Cubic Inches. Liters to CID = Liters * 61 CID to Liters = CID / 61 Using Stroke & Bore you can calculate Displacement: CID = (Stroke * (((Bore / 2) * (Bore /2)) * 3.14159) * NumberCylinders Note: (the Actual formula is (Stroke * ((Bore / 2) ^ 2) * PI) * NumberCylinders Can't answer the horsepower question, perhaps someone else can. Hope the information helps. Rich

Sorry it isn't an antique car question, but since it is my tow vehicle it does sortof relate. It is a 1989 Suburban 1500SLX with the 350engine, and 4x4. The transmission and differentials are rebuilt. I bought it recently with the differential shot, it sat for 9 months prior to my purchase without being run or obviously driven. (Drivers side bearing had cut about 1/8" groove into the axle and bits were strewn throughout the differential.) I did the major routine maintenance things (and had the differential professional rebuilt, everything except for the housing is new, including the axles). I've put 600 miles on it since it was redone. Every now and then (4 times so far), the Service Engine light comes on briefly. The error is a '32', which says it is for the EGR valve. I checked the vacuum lines, they seem good, the EGR valve itself seems to work as expected, and the solenoid for the vacuum seems to be fine too. I'm not sure what else to look for. Another side note is that the car runs great at idle and at highway speeds however from about 32mph to about 34mph the engine will surge and slow down, like you were pushing the gas down and letting it up. Speeding up to 35 or dropping down to 30 and everything is fine again. Other than these two issues it seems to be running fine. Any suggestions as what I should search for? Might it be the O2 sensor? Not sure where to look, it is newer than what little expertise I have covers, so open to suggestions. On the positive side I love the Suburban, looks great, drives great, handles great. Couldn't recommend them enough to folks, though had I the budget I would have gone for the 2500, this will do for what I need living in flatland (Florida), and only towing just under 6000lbs including enclosed trailer and car. It does have the 3.73 rear end, some have told me I should have replaced it with the 4.1, however I bought it and the trailer together and it has 130,000 miles on it, much of it towing the trailer. Seems like it should do the job for me until I can affor something bigger and badder. As always, thanks! Rich

Thanks for the information. On further inspection it seems the majority of parts are from 1940 Cadillac Series 60 Fleetwoods, with a few from 1938 or 1939. Seems I learn more and more about more and more every day... Rich

Is there any demand/market for early 40's Cadillac parts? I was told 1941, though not being a Cadillac person I couldn't swear to it. Not exactly a technical question but there are a number of them in a lot along with parts I want and trying to figure out a fair offer to make. Rich

My February 1932 Purolator application list does not include the S-4 it only goes up through S-3, it does however list the SF-3. The SF-3 was used on Packard 640 and 645 from Oct '28 to June '29. This comes from: PurOLator, February 1932, Form KS-7, Printed in the U.S.A., Licensed under Sweetland Patents. Rich

Krispy Kreme's - One of the many reasons so many northerners move to the southeast. Rich

Doe's she have her license? Our rule for ours is if she doesn't have the room clean and relatively scent free then she can't have the car for 'personal' trips. We didn't want to punish us, so she can still drive to school, and to work if the room is a mess, but nowhere else. She's figured out (took a couple of months) that we monitor the mileage on the car. Of course that still doesn't explain how we just "happen" to be where she is when she isn't where she should be. Some parental things just are not meant to be understood by the kids Rich PS: Colleen says the ozone will definitely work, but do not overdo it, keep an eye on it, a car is not like a house it won't take nearly as long for the car. Also in the meantime if you can circulate air through the car to help it 'breathe' it might lessen the odor as well.