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Everything posted by 6219_Rules

  1. I don't know why not! I used enamels on the old sombreros on the '47 Caddy I had... but they wore off and looked rather more silly than just being old. I am not sure about the letters. I have seen them in black and red. Or was it blue? Hmmm. I used to have pictures of the '56 Olds but no more. If you have a steady hand, painting is a breeze. Or tape off the hub cap and use a spray like Rustolium or better yet, brake paint. I think it comes in White, Red and Black. Either should stand up well to wear. Hope that help!!
  2. You probably have thought of this already, but give the folks at Coopers Vintage Cadillacs or AllCads a call. They probably have those in their arsenal. Here are their website links : Cooper's Website All Cadillacs of the Forties and Fifties And you might try McVey's for a New repro... can be expensive but they are nice : McVey's Site Hope that helps! Don't forget to go to the Cadillac And LaSalle Club's Forum too.... they can be a great help. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> Best of luck... let us know how you fair in your search!
  3. Darn! Almost got you to say it!!! I love to drive fast. My wallet, however, has become my conscience since the Flat Hats here take umberage at such behavior. It is expensive. That is why I keep telling my son, if I could, I would love an MG-B for a second car, cause it feels real fast at 35 mph!! <span style="font-style: italic">Safety fast!!!!</span> Otherwise I just toodle around Denver in the Old Cadillac. Every now and then, I have been known to give the kids trouble on Lincoln St. from a standing start. But I know you won't tell anyone. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />
  4. I'm surprised the Department of Homeland In-Security doesn't come and take you away for driving a late model WMD, Wayne!! OMG! what is worse than a 1970's Ford Pinto? A 1970's Ford Pinto that <span style="font-style: italic">survived</span> !!! (j/k) ... so Wayne, when is the AACA gonna accept it as a real Classic? <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />
  5. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> </div></div> Where did you get that cute, blue box with the question mark?
  6. Nice car, Joey. A bit rough... been there, done that. But what the hey... where did you get her? And what would you like to see done over the next year? I will second the Welcome and hope you have plenty of questions. There are many here who can help. Nice to see another Fifties Caddy on the block. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />
  7. I am still unclear as to why, but it does seem as though the higher octane fuel available does make a difference in performance. The Mustang's 289 V-8 (rebuilt by Jaspers) makes all sorts of sounds if you use 87, but not with 93. I do not understand the difference. Some say there are more additives, others say less; some say there is a higher amount of Ethanol in the 93, while others say not. So I would hazzard a guess that if a tank of 93 makes a noticable difference, in comparison to 87, then it seems reasonable to use 93 most of the time. Ipso facto.
  8. DaveZZZ, that was an excellent and concise discussion of modern fuel. Thank you. I know for my own understanding, it was of great help. I would like to add, if you use the Lead Supreme Tetraethal additive, you most likely will not pass emission tests in those States that still require it. However, I have found the Non-lead additives to work well. But the point has been made, and correctly so, that to buy Regular, then adding an additive, you might as well buy Supreme, and may still have to add a Non-lead additive. My understanding of the Hardened Valve Seats in older engine rebuilds was to prevent damage from pre-ignition knock. Tetraethal was added to fuel in the 1940s to prevent that annoying 'ping' and it worked. It was also cheap so the oil companies like Standard Oil had no problem adding it following the commercial success of the Ethal Oil. Most fuels were non-lead fuels at base until the companies began experimenting with fuel additives to boost performance, and silent running of engines. According to older family members, it was normal for engines to 'ping', stall, and overheat causing vapor lock. Summer and vacations to the mountains were often exciting adventures as the old Merc or DeSoto would chug and stall its way across the Badlands to the Rocky Mountains. So I guess the answer is to just bite the bullet, and buy the top grade. Buying the middle grade is pointless, and Regular may cause damage or at least poor performance. Coupled with modern oils that have reduced ZDDP, and you are looking at potential problems with lifters and valves, if they are not of the Roller Type. And, Dave's point about old rubber seals is a good point. They should be replaced with modern rubber or its equivalent that is made for the modern fuels. Good thread. Thanks, Guys.
  9. I am not sure if those are the right ones or not... I will have to check, Jaxops! But thank you for the thought! I will get back to you as soon as I can. All I remember is that the plastic dome light is in the center of the ceiling, might have dimples, and is the only light besides the map light on the dash in the 6219. Hmmmm. Like I said, I will check. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> OK! I found a new one at McVeys. Click here to view. Is that what you have, Jaxops? G. is the proper 62 series lamp lense. Thanks again!
  10. Thanks, Jake and Wayne. Our 'Regular' in Denver is 87. I could easily add a tank of 92 every third tank just to be sure. My son felt that the engine is high compression due to its 8.x:1 but I always heard that it was not, and would not be considered 'high' compression until 9:1 or better. Good answers. Now what is considered a 'high' compression engine over a 'low' compression engine, and why?
  11. This question came up yet again this week when my son accused me of 'ruining' my engine in the 1956 Cadillac by putting in the basic Regular at the pump. My engine is the 365 CID bored out 331 modification originally put into the car, except with hardened valve seats. I thought that meant I could use basic unleaded fuel and was told that I could use regular in the car since that was basically what was used in the past. Jonathan begged to differ... he said that a high compression engine like that (8.25:1 compression) requires the higher octane fuel. So the question is... who is right? Is the 365 CID a high compression engine? Does it require the higher octane? And what about the higher amounts of Ethanol included in that higher octane fuel? Thank you in advance for Your advice!
  12. I know what you mean, West. In my search for a front crest for the 1956 Cadillac, I found several companies that had them new, but for $250??? And on top of that it is painted clear plastic!! ACK! Thank goodness a friend gave me an old one I repainted and applied. It looks great, in spite of a few scratches. And so much nicer than shelling out $250 for a new one!!
  13. Hi DavidP. Glad you posted your '54 here. People here will really enjoy seeing an original '54 out on the road again. Nothing like it seeing an old Cadillac or Buick, or Rolls rolling down the street as though it were still 1955. Thanks for the picture too.
  14. I am looking for a used dome light cover for the Series 62 Sedan. These become very fragile over time. If you have a couple or know where one can get one, please post it. Thank you in advance. Randall
  15. You are most welcome. I am glad I could help.
  16. hey Don... I wanted to interject that my '47 Cadillac would run like a champ until it was a Sunday evening or a holiday, or I was in the mountains where there is no cell phone reception to up and strand me. It's part of owning an old car, as you said. I laugh it off, and flag down an unwary soul for help. Something about seeing the hood up on an antique gets people to stop without a problem. Now that I have a MODERN car, I still get stranded occasionally (mostly due to this nasty ethanol blend that boils in the carb) in the dangdest places! And I still get people pulling over to help push the beast or ask if they can help. Something about an old car stirs the good in people. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> Excelsior!
  17. Rusty, I asked a friend who restores 50s Cadillacs specifically, and he said that you should have no problem with the '54 fitting on the '56. They interchange and work as he has had to do that on occasion. Unlike the '54 Olds to the '56 Olds that will not interchange. So I would say you are good to go! <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />
  18. Now that was really cool! Great clip! Thanks for showing it. It should be of great interest to those of you with push button transmission in the '56 Packards.
  19. Well, West... as I said. Medusa's Head was used by Athena/Minerva as an Aegis on her breast plate. Pretty simple deduction really. But I know next to nothing about that era of automobile so you are probably right. I looked up the Minerva and saw that there was a Hood/Radiator ornament of the helmetted Goddess on auction at Barrett-Jackson this last time.
  20. Brad, I have a clue to the badge image. That snake haired female would be Medusa. Persius was said to have killed the Medusa (her name was Medusa, one of three sisters) by looking into a highly polished shield to cut her head off. He presented the head to Athena who wore it on her breast plate as an Aegis or symbol of protection and power. Medusa turned anyone she looked at to stone, i.e. death. Then I would hazzard to guess that the car was a Minerva. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />
  21. The answer is: Chicken. Because, given biological evolution, the prime and prime+ (Female and Male) are the sources of the genetic code that will mix to produce the Embryo in the Egg. It does not matter if the Chicken was first a Dinosaur (I think of them as distant relations to T-Rex because Chickens are so dang vicious), the source of the DNA/RNA is in the Parent or Prime's resulting in the Result, or Embryo. (Sorry people... I do not accept the idea that T-Rex frolicked with Eve in the Garden of Eden, having a vegetarian picnic lunch under the trees. It simply is not supportable nor demonstrable. It's not science. And even as far as faith based ideas go, it's pretty ludicris.) That is how I see it. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> Oh yeah.... as BKazmer said, Caveat Emptor... the radiator may be in relatively good condition (compared to others rusting and full of holes) but that does not mean or imply that it is perfect or in working condition. You need to ask the seller if the radiators are in good <span style="font-style: italic">enough</span> condition to be installed and expected to work. Do they hold fluid? etc... But honestly, you now have two and rebuilding or recoring is not terribly expensive. You could, for a little over $100 have two fine radiators. I would look at it as a positive than a negative. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />
  22. I agree with 3Jakes. Add to that the sad fact that while the economy may be doing well, many of those left in the Middle Class are not having such good fortune. Money is scarce, and doesn't go nearly as far as it did just five years ago. Most of us interested in old, antique, Classic, and desirable collector cars, face an ever increasing cost curve just to bring the car to the home or garage, let alone finding parts cars, parts sources, tools, etc... Yes, it is the cost of the hobby. And yes, you make the time and money available; however, people, especially with young families, are forced to choose between a home and the hobby. The fact is, it is difficult to make ends meet with two incomes, let alone spend $36000 on a restoration project sitting in the garage, no matter how cheap that project was. I know, I have one sitting in my son's garage. But it is good to know that there are young people interested in collectable cars. Jonathan, my son, is 22 years old, a graduate of CUatDenver, and working. He is restoring his 1972 Eldorado convertible at Mitchell Motors restoration shop in Littleton. He has taken out a sizable loan and is paying for it himself. Ok, it isn't a 1946 Lincoln or 1938 Cadillac V-12. The car was in #3 shape when he bought it. So there is hope.
  23. Fine by me, Lenny.... just no Rabbit Farms this time. I'm keeping an eye on you! That is just the question though... beyond what the hoi palloi thinks. Today's cars are essentially the same, though admittedly they are starting to change beyond the pressurized internal systems, etc.. a car by definition was four wheels, an internal combustion engine (normally), seats for at least two, normally for four or six, four brakes (drum, disc or combination thereof), usw... Was the line of demarkation WWII generally or before that? Or is that too artificial? I know when driving my 1947 Cadillac on the freeway, it operated just like any other vehicle, just looked a little odd for the day. So what makes a 'modern' car modern? (It is interesting that most historians consider the 'Modern' era to have begun with the Renaissance.)
  24. Before you start tearing your suspension and drive link apart, you might check to see if somehow you may have bent a wheel out of round. Driving out to the airport last week, I noticed a marked vibration at about 55-60 mph. My first thought was the drive shaft and 'U' joints, then the bearings, figuring that the modern tire may be rubbing on corners (there is a sound like that). Came to discover, much to my relief, that at some point I ran into a pot hole or speed bump and bent the wheel. It could also have broken the steel belt or gone out of balance. Today I checked it at the Goodyear... bent wheel. It is not noticable until third or four gear in my '56 Cadillac, so I thought you might check that first. It is simple and cheap. Jack up the car in the rear and put it on jack stands so both wheels are off the ground. Chock the front real well. Then start the car, put it in drive and excellerate it up to 50 or 55... have some one check the rear wheels as they spin to see if they wobble. You can also check the drive shaft and wheel play for problems. Just a thought. Hope that helps.
  25. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> the fellow who started this "thread" </div></div> The name is Randall, or Randy... I answer to Wolf, too. Peter, you know my name, use it. If it is worn thin, I promise not to make you buy me a new one. Honest. Ok, one more question for the 'experts': When were automobiles considered modern. as opposed to pre-modern like a Model T??
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