stude24

Stromberg-Studebaker OS-1 side draft Carburetor for sale. Fit's 1920 to early 1922 Light Six with aluminum head. $75, plus $15 USPS shipping in continental USA. Will ship elsewhere at additional cost. Photo's available. Email vpt683@gmail.com. Dan (42 year member SDC).

Stromberg-Studebaker OS-1 side draft Carburetor for sale. Fit's 1920 to 1922 Light Six with aluminum head. $75, plus $15 USPS shipping in continental USA. Will ship elsewhere at additional cost. Photo's available. Email vpt683@gmail.com. Dan (42 year member SDC).

Used Stromberg AAV-26 Carburetor Code 22-19 Fits 1941 to early 1947 Hudson 8 cylinder. The Stromberg AAV-26 was also used on Cadillac, Buick, Packard, Studebaker President and others of the era. Overall good used condition, can provide photos. $75 plus actual USPS shipping costs. Carb is sold. Thanks. For more information email me: vpt683@gmail.com

This is kind of a long shot but there is a 1932 Studebaker sedan parts car on NH Craigslist (not mine) at this link: http://nh.craigslist.org/cto/5933664032.html .

Wow very nice car! Was this the one that was at Max's all those years?

Studebaker used a hubcap spring clip from the 40's until the end that pushed through a rectangular slot in the wheel. These are part number 526646 and are readily available through Studebaker International and other vendors. Perhaps they could be modified to fit your application(s).

It's about 8 feet long by 30 inches high by 9 inches wide, asking price is $2,500. Nice fit for most many garages.

I have a two sided Studebaker Dealer sign for sale. Internally lit two sided, one side is nice, the other not so. Can deliver to Studebaker International Meet in Warwick, RI this summer. If interested send an email: dpson1954@comcast.net

I think you would be better off attending the SDC International Meet in St. Louis, MO in August. Here is the link: http://www.sdcmeet.com/. The Antique Studebaker Club will be having their International Meet at the same time http://www.theantiquestudebakerclub.com/NationalMeets/nationalmeets15.htm and there should be a lot more of those interested in the early cars there than in SB in May. (Sold my Light Six several years ago.)

I don't have the entire globe but have the glass insert I bought many years ago. If it's something you're interested in let me know, it's in "like new" condition. Sorry for the poor picture. Email works best: vpt683@gmail.com

I have the following Studebaker dealer signs for sale (see photos):<o:p></o Large“Studebaker Sales/Service sign is $1500. It’s plastic, internally lit (florescent tubes), two sided. The back side has some sections broken out (missing), so you’re seeing the better side. I haven’t fiddled with it recently, but at one time I had one of the internal light bulbs working. It’s a fairly big sign, approximately 3’ tall by 8’ long by 8” thick. The two plastic “Lark” signs are $600 each. Both in excellent condition.<o:p></o The large “Studebaker” plastic sign is $550. It has a golf ball sized hole on the top of the plastic (above the letter “S”) , which isn’t noticeable when mounted as shown. There was some paint spilled on the sign at some point which I haven’t tried to remove. <o:p></o <o:p></o The smaller 1920’s “Studebaker Service Station” sign is (SOLD) . It’s two sided porcelain and the side shown is the better of the two. <o:p></o <o:p></o The Studebaker ABC (Always Buy Certified) used car sign is (SOLD). It’s two sided porcelain. Both sides are in good condition as shown. It would clean up real nice with little effort. I’d also consider a package deal, for the remaining signs. <o:pPossible delivery to Studebaker Swap meets in Reedsville, PA (fall 2014), York, PA (March 2015), South Bend, IN (May 2015) with payment. Please email with any questions: vpt683@gmail.com </o<o:p></o

Canvas USAC Mobilgas "Economy Run" banner, circa late 50's early 60's. Overall good condition, some fading, three small holes in "Proved". Displays nicely, great item to hang in the garage. Approximately 3 feet by 6 feet. Rolls up for shipping. Asking $250 obo. Send PM if interested.

Just posted some NOS parts from the 30's, 40's & 50's on the Studebaker Swap Page for delivery to Dover. See March ad 13278 here is the link: http://www.studebakerswap.com/swap/swap.php .

Sorry if this sounds like a dumb question, but I recently bought a 1931 deluxe roadster and what is the proper way to put the top down. I see there are a number of snaps and I wasn't sure what should be un-snapped and what can be left in place?

This is for sale on CT Craigslist: 1927 studebaker . Looks like a pretty good Erskine (not Studebaker) parts car or possible restoration. This is not mine, I pass it along in case some one here might be interested. Having owned a 1928 Erskine, parts are not all that easy to find. If someone here buys this let us know how you come out.

Gary, It can't hurt to take a look.....You can always build a bigger garage. Actually, now that I think about it, a couple sheets of marine plywood and some blue tarps and that is your second garage.

Saw this on RI craigslist and thought someone here might be interested: Antique 1926 Hurse . This would be a ton of work to restore, but what an amazing vehicle when done. The grill doesn't look Studebaker, so it might be something else.

Let me start by saying I sold my 1924 Light Six a number of years ago, so my memory is getting weak. One thought; if you have no compression in a cylinder that means there is a valve that is open, likely stuck open. That may be what's caused the roller to end up in the pan, due to the lifter not being able to open the valve and something had to give and that was the roller pin. You may want to check the cam lobe for possible damage. See if you can move the valve that has the broken lifter roller. You should be able to get a large screwdrive to use leverage to get past the valve spring compression. Try a couple nearby valves first to see if how much pressure it takes to move the valves. I had a 1923 Light Six parts car that had been sitting for a long time and it had two stuck valves, the very last ones in the block (#1 & #6 cylinders). I freed the valves by tapping and working them up and down with WD-40 being liberally applied. I am afraid however you will need to remove the head to access the top of the valve to tap it down. One last thing, if you end up removing a valve I recall that the valve keepers are PIA to free up until you get the hang of it. You have to compress the spring and then kind of jiggle and push up the bottom retainer in order for the keepers to release. It's hard to describe, perhaps someone else can provide a better explanation Anyway good luck, don't lose faith.

I have a vintage Stewart-Warner mechanically driven tach for a 3" opening. Here are a couple photos. Let me know if it is anything you might be interested in.

Thanks for the reply I'll look for a tag.

Thanks for the help, I didn't see a tag on it but I'll look again.

Hi folks, Can anyone identify this remanufactured Mopar AC Compressor. What year(s) and model(s) does it fit? Thanks :confused:<!-- google_ad_section_end --> <FIELDSET class=fieldset><LEGEND>Attached Thumbnails</LEGEND> </FIELDSET>

Hi folks, Can anyone identify this remanufactured Mopar AC Compressor. What year(s) and model(s) does it fit? Thanks :confused:

According to a 1962 parts interchange book the Delco-Remy 1112403 distributor was used on Chevy passenger cars and trucks (obviously 6 cyl.)from 1955 to 1961. In that the interchange book ends with 1961 data they could have been used by Chevy even later. You should be able to find most all that you need at your local auto parts store.

You should be aware that the Delco-Remy distributor you note above is not the original one for a 1923 Light Six. The Light Six used a Remy 626A (from the days before Delco and Remy merged) or a Wagner (I forget the model number). It very well may be from a later model Studebaker. I think Delco-Remy merged around 1928.