old-tank

Hi Don<BR>Glad you got it running! Lifters on all of my 322's have taken a long time to pump up and get quiet ( how long has it been running? ) Give it time unless it is real bad or getting worse.<BR>Willie

BUSTED while playing Chevies!!...anyhow I'm just helping a friend who inherited this beast. We got the balancer off with my puller...that thing does not have any bolts nuts or screws holding it to the trankshaft..just a press/interference fit. Someday I'll probably need to know how to install this thing. The engine was frozen and will need a lot machine work and parts. hmmmm....looks like a Buick 322 will fit nicely...<P>Willie

Trying to help a friend disassemble the engine from a 1950 chevy. How do you remove the harmonic balancer??...we have a service manual but still can't figure it out. If I had the special puller and saw it demonstrated it would be easy...nothing is ever easy!!<BR>Thanks in advance<BR>Willie

I had broken rocker shafts in addition to bent push rods, broken rockers and bent cam caused by spring bind. this was caused by the shims that the machine shop installed under the outter valve springs that covered the recess that the inner valve springs rest in. This was on a 55 (322).<BR>Check the last thing that was done to the engine before this started happening.<BR>Willie

Scott<BR> On pistons the best bet is NOS but those are to find. Consider using the old pistons if they are within specs after cleanup and the cylinders are OK with less than 6 thousands wear. If you use the old pistons the ring end gap and fit in the grooves is critical.<BR> Now i'll tell you what not to buy: Pistons from Terrill Machine and sold by Buick Specialist and others don't have as high a dome as the original....I sent a set back! Pistons from EGGE Machine look good but the wrist pin placement is higher than original...May work OK if you deck the block...I installed a set in my last project and have 125lbs cranking compression instead of the original 160...it runs ok on low octane but just doesn't have the sparkle and zip that I wanted. there are others selling pistons..check them out and GOOD LUCK! <BR>( Has anyone else with a recently rebuilt 322 checked the compression???)<BR>Willie<BR>

Don<BR>Try cranking it with the spark plugs out and maybe use 5W-30 oil for cold temps. Best to tske the distributor out and spin the oil pump with a tool or an old distributor with the gear removed...use a good stout drill.<BR>Willie

Don<BR>The resistor is working properly...will not get so hot with the car running....leaving the ignition on with the engine not running will shorten the life of the restistor AND the points.<BR>When are you going to fire that thing up??<BR>Time to smoke some tires!!<BR>Willie

To preserve original performance try to get the original cranking compression. Some replacement pistons are less domed; some have the pin placement higher so the piston doesnot go up as far at top dead center. Also be sure there is NO valve seat recession: any recession will increase chamber volumne and lower the compression. Find and use the thin steel head gaskets instead the thick composite ones that are in most gaskets sets. Even stock nail head cams have long duration should be 'degreed'. The 56 cam and lifters will give some increase in performance. The one performance cam I put in a 322 actually gave less power in conservative driving in drive with the dynaflow but really pulled strong in low from 10 to 70 mph. The 55&56 322 was a good runner in stock: 0-60 in 9-10 sec; 1/4=16-17sec; 83-87mph...this is in the century.<BR>Hope this helps<BR>Willie

Hi Don<BR>Take the pinion gear and drive shaft (don't pull the spline) and take it to a drive shaft shop for straightening and balancing. Also be sure there no oil INSIDE the drive shaft since this can happen when the torque tube fills with oil...this can cause a vibration problem also. <BR>Sorry about the extra work...better now than later...seems we all r&r a few times.<BR>good luck<BR>Willie

And all this time I thought there were no meets out west or down south was because there no bids!!<BR>Tucson would be a great place to drive...great scenery and less traffic.<BR>But it is so-o-o-o-o hot....we wouldn't want anyone to have a melt down.<BR>Willie

Maybe one of your neighbors (elderly?) has a 2-car garage and only one car...worked for me in the past.<BR>Also one my cars is now stored in my closed trailer,,,cleanest of the bunch....justifies the cost of this seldom used toy....you can't build a garage for $6000.<BR>Good luck<BR>Willie

I didn't have problems with my 55's until unleaded gas and the small gas pump nozzle in the large tank opening. Note that diesels have a large opening and use a large nozzle. The 55's fuel from the side and gas slops on the paint and softens and streaks it. I solved this by cutting a hole into a spare gas cap the size of the unleaded fuel nozzzle and use this when I fill up. A friend solved the same problem by welding the end from an unleaded tank to replace the original opening.<BR>Good Luck<BR>Willie

Scott<BR>The 23 tooth gear would be for export axle ratio like 4.11:1.<BR>It's been awile since I changed gears so I'll have to get one of my cars over the service pit to check it out...I'll let you know.<BR>Willie<BR>

Bill<BR>The shade of red on a rear end depends on how recent the spanking or the severity of diarrhea.<BR>Seriously I use a rattle can primer in a dark red shade made by Dupicolor and then clear coat it for durability.<BR>Willie

Scott<BR>I use transmission fluid which is what was recommended by Buick specialists where I bought the parts: cylinders, hoses and pump. I bought a rebuild kit from a Chevy supplier (didn't last) before I bought a complete pump.<BR>Try not to use brake fluid...you will have a corrosive mess instead an oily mess if there leaks; also brake fluid is corrosive and will form sludge inside the system. (this is true of gylcol based brake fluids...silicone brake fluid may work)<BR>Willie

Scott<BR>Sounds like my story exactly. I finally gave up and bought a new pump...just used the old reservior to retain the old mountings.<BR>Willie

Hi Scott<BR> When I use radials on my 55 Century (P22575R15 instead of 7.60-15) I use a speedometer gear out a 55 Special. The standard axel ratio in Centuries and R-masters is about 3.4:1 and in the special it is 3.6:1...this should get you within 1-3% and the gears should be available from your favorite used parts supplier (I recommend Wheatbelt).<BR>Good luck<BR>Willie

The numbering is 1-2-3 front to back with the arrows pointing to the front...double check with the machine shop to be sure that is how they did it since some of the caps will fit in more than one place.<BR>Willie

I have never had any luck using an extractor on a frozen/rusted fitting only on a fitting that broke while torquing during installation; and only then if it wasn't bottomed out in the hole. Heat will only work if you can heat all parts safely to a cherry red color. Best to drill out and then retapp before you break off an extractor; then you will need a carbide tip drill(s) patience and a few choice words. If it is broken of in cast iron weld the broken part of the bolt to the center of a washer and then weld a nut to the washer...mig welder is best but a stick welder will work if you are a good welder. <BR>I can't share my favorite choice words on this forum so I will just offer my condolences!!!!<BR>Willie

Another trick I have used on manual transmission cars is tow the car (in gear) with the spark plugs out...this primes the oil and fuel...just put the plugs in and fire it up. This also works in a car that has been stored for a long time...squirt some oil in the spark plug holes and tow away.<BR>Willie

Not everybody is happy with Kepich. An exhaust system for my 55 century was MESS!<BR>The crossover pipe had to be cut and re-welded to make it fit (cheaper than sending it back again); the muffler was a ford truck muffler modified to look lide a Buick muffler (the inlet and outet was switched); and the tail pipe had to be modified by a local muffler shop.<BR>

20W-50 year round in south Texas

Mark<BR>I have used the torch/varsol/blasting method and it works great. Nothing else was acceptible even the engine tanks at my local machine shop.<BR>(hope to see you in Fredricksberg this weekend)<BR>Willie<p>[This message has been edited by old-tank (edited 10-19-2000).]

Hope by now you fired it up and all is OK. On the oil...use the same oil you will use in the engine after break in (unless you are planning to use synthetic)...I use 20W-50 here in Texas. Another way to prime the engine with oil is to install an old distibutor with the gear removed and spin with a drill...some times you can find a tool that does the same thing. Be sure it is FULL of oil when you start since the oil filter will take one quart and it will take another quart to fill all the oil passages in a dry motor.<BR>I always fire it up for the 1st 30 seconds with no coolant...just in case I have to disassemble I won't have that mess (shows my level of confidence doesn't it) Really this was suggested by an old mechanic who says this will help the head gaskets seal better.<BR>After the initial break in drive as you normally would (unless you are drag racing)...just avoid prolonged idling.<BR>Change oil and filter at 1000 mile and at 3000 miles and then every 3000 miles...should be good for 300,000 miles.<BR>Let us know how it turns out.<BR>Willie

Chris<BR>I have a used switch...have to check it out. If you have your original covers I can repair them.<BR>Willie