Jump to content
COMMON SCAM: If you receive a private message from a new member offering a part, make sure to thoroughly verify it. It’s your responsibility to ensure it’s not a scam. Report any suspicious users immediately. ×

NTX5467

Members
  • Posts

    10,003
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Everything posted by NTX5467

  1. On modern computer controlled engines, I don't really see a need to get away from the factory 195 degree thermostat. Naturally, the many rent cars I've driven are reasonably new, but they never got past the middle mark on the gauge in our hot summers with the a/c going full blast. The electric cooling fans keep things under control. The alleged power gain from using a 180 degree thermostat would be basically nil, even on a stock motor. If the compression ratio was a good deal higher than what it is, using a slightly cooler thermostat might keep the detonation limiter from kicking the timing back, but that would not be an issue with a stock engine these days. Also, the cooler thermostat might keep the computer from getting into closed loop as soon as it normally would and that would possibly affect emissions adversely. I know everyone that "talks chips" thinks they need the 160 degree thermostats in engines that didn't have them from the factory, but I perceive that is more hype than anything else. Plus, keeping the engine temps near 195 will keep the condensates and such cooked out of the oil better so oil life will be increased. Basically, I see no real compelling reason to get away from the factory thermostat specs on a stock motor. In prior decades, it was different. Just some thoughts . . . NTX5467
  2. I suspect that if you have the Concert Sound II speakers (as the Century Custom I rented last weekend did), there will be a small speaker grille on the upper portion of the trim panel plus a "Concert Sound II" nameplate nearby. If you have a factory CD player, I would suspect it would be part of that radio package. Have you checked the owner's manual in that respect? The Monsoon system that was also in Regals back then is really nice. When listening to KMEO, I would have to turn the bass down a bit more than normal (from max) as there appears to be a lot of residual bass in their broadcasts and also have to do that with the other non-Monsoon systems. But, with a Sinatra concert CD plugged in, I drove around in the country one night with it cranked up past the "front row" volume level as it sounded so nice (and with the bass set at about 3/4 max). There are some Springstein and Bachman-Turner Overdrive CDs that would sound really good "loud" too. I'm not sure if you can add Monsoon amps to an existing Delco radio not designed for it or if there are particular speakers for that system, but it sure does sound cleaner than the non-Monsoon system at higher volume levels. You might check with AutoCraft Electronics near the Addison Airport for that information as they are the regional Delco service center for radios and other Delco items too. Personally, I like OEM grade installations so if they could swap you into a Monsoon radio/CD/tape unit and matching amps that will plug into your existing wiring, I suspect that would be a good way to do it. What happens at the speaker end is a different situation. Enjoy! NTX5467
  3. I highly concur with those observations. People who grew up in those harder times of their earlier lives carried their orientations with them in later life--just as my parents (and grand parents who lived through those earlier Great Depression Era times) would never vote for a Republican. Growing up on the farm back then or being involved in agricultural pursuits as they were, was not the easiest thing in the world to get through back then. We knew a couple that taught school with my parents. They lived in the country and saved their "vouchers" back then and basically lived on what they grew on the farm during those hard times. When times got better and they cashed their vouchers in, they were reasonably wealthy compared to other folks back then. They usually bought a new Chevy every 3 years. Their "ritual" was to head out on Saturday morning and go to a different dealership each Saturday to shop for a new car. I have no doubt that they tried to wring the last cent out of that deal. A few times, they ended up buying the new one the same place they bought the prior one, but usually they ended up buying it somewhere else. There were even a few times they didn't trade that year as they "just couldn't deal" and that led to the 4 year car that had to be traded the next year. I don't recall them ever special ordering a vehicle, but buying off of the lot. In retrospect, that was one form of their entertainment. They might spend several Saturdays shopping and driving over the coutryside to smaller dealers away from the bigger cities. Got them out of the house, for sure. By the time they made their "best deal", if you figured in the cost of fuel and such they could have done just as well with a local dealership--but that wouldn't have been as much fun. The car stayed in the detached garage all of the time and it was well serviced. Their trade-ins certainly were prime items for the dealer's used car lot. They could have afforded a Pontiac or Buick, no doubt, but they didn't want to advertise their wealth as they lived in a somewhat rural area, so it was nice Chevrolet BelAirs and later Caprices. The comment about sedans being "tighter" than hardtops was typically accurate back then. Afterall, the glass was better supported in the sedans too. I hadn't heard about the tire overheating issue though, but the snow issue could be valid. Enjoy! NTX5467
  4. If the gaskets will be used with the headers, try to find some "black" ones that have the more substantial material and wire reinforcements in them. When the header bolt might get a little loose, they will not blow out as the "white" and softer ones will (which must then be replaced--ack!) so you can just tighten things down again and go on. More pricey, but worth it--if you can find them. They also tolerate high heat better. As for bolts, you might look for some Grade 8 bolts (all Allen head bolts are Grade 8) or get some of the head bolts which are configured to use E-clip attachments (or similar) too keep the bolts tight. Glad the penetrant worked for you! NTX5467
  5. NTX5467

    95 riv

    I realize the term "Pass Key" has been tossed around quite a bit in recent years, so I'll mention other terminology relating to components. If the ignition key has the resistor chip in it, the contacts on the resistor can wear down with use to where they are smooth with the plastic around them. In that case, cleaning might not help but a new key of the correct chip code would be the easiest and least expensive thing to try. If it's a transponder key (with a soft key head and the GM logo "laser cut-style" into the rubber) and "PK3" stamped on the shank of the key, the vehicle will need to recognize that key just as it recognizes a keyless entry transmitter. There are procedures to program the system just as with the keyless entry transmitters. If the security light is on, that probably means a "breach" has been detected and the fuel shutoff and/starter interlock have been activated. There are some unique diagnostic tools which the dealers should have to troubleshoot that security system so that might be the best and most expeditious course of action. If, by chance, a new ignition key cylinder is needed, it will come with a brass key inserted in it. The security computer in the vehicle will still be programmed for the original chip code. Therefore, you use the brass key to use to cut new keys with the correct chip code with the end result being two new keys of the existing chip code that also match the new "cut code" of the new cylinder. That'll add about $50-60.00 to the price of replacing the ignition cylinder. Any previous ignition keys will not work in the new cylinder either so they are useless except to determine the chip code of the security computer. As for disconnecting the security system, not an easy thing to do and certainly not like pulling a fuse or similar. Afterall, it's doing what it was designed to do, except you are the owner. NTX5467
  6. Get a "real" charging system load check done on the vehicle. Also make sure all battery terminal connections are CLEAN and tight (they might look good but have a hidden corrosion shield that you can't see). Load/output bench checks done at auto supplies don't always give an accurate indication of what the alternator is really putting out under load in the vehicle. Also make sure the battery is fully charged and has no residual drain(s) on it too. The warning light operates on a "voltage bias" sort of arrangement such that when it glows or is fully red, voltage is flowing the wrong way in the system (as in discharge on a gauge). There's also a possibility that something is not fully grounded and is trying to ground via that alternator light circuit. Those systems were pretty basic back then and a GM Service Manual should answer all of your questions in how to troubleshoot the system PLUS theory of operations. Hope that helps . . . NTX5467
  7. Center mark should be about 210. Thermostat is rated at 195. Pressurized systems with 15psi caps will not boil until about 260. Enjoy! NTX5467
  8. Thanks for the comments! I know that sometimes we don't always find what we are looking for in used cars. Just as you have the desire for '68 Wildcats, when I went looking for similar '68 Chrysler 300s, they weren't around and I did find a nice '67 Chrysler Newport 2-door hardtop that was spec'd similar to the 300s with bucket seats and center cushion and the optional 383 4bbl V-8 (that was standard on the 300s). Seat trim is identical to the 300s, but with different dash and door trim. It has the "basic group" options (PS,PB,A/C, AM Radio & rear speaker, whitewalls and wheel covers, clock, and undercoat). I added some 14x6.5" station wagon wheels and P245/70R-14 BFG whitewall Advantage TAs and also found a '68 Chrysler FM Multiplex setup a few years ago. I found some nice New Yorkers too, but the 300 was and sitll is "it" as far as I was concerned. Therefore, I feel that I understand your desires. When I came across my '68 LeSabre Custom Convertible (hence, "5467"), it was a deal I couldn't refuse. 350 4bbl, Turbo 400, PS, PB, A/C. I later found a GM muiltiplex FM radio from an earlier model that fit the dash so that's in there now too. It's the repainted blue/grey metallic with blue vinyl interior. It's not perfect by any means, but became quite enjoyable to drive when I got the Delco gas shocks put on there a few years ago. It is residing in covered storage now and is not depreciating either. It is one car that any additional money spent to make it back right will be fully returned in additional value--which I like. Although they were not "correct" for anything other than a Wildcat, I do have a set of the 15" chrome wheels for it somewhere. It currently has some bi-spinner GM wire wheel covers on it and it also came with a set of later model GM wire wheels too. The 350 4bbl has enough power do to most anything and still get good fuel economy. A much nicer running engine than the much loved Chevy small block, for sure. I concur that that '68 Wildcat (and the related LeSabre) were the high points of Buick's swoopy styling of the later '60s. It really came off well on the '68 Wildcat 2-door hardtops with the fastback roof styling (and, of course, the convertibles). Those lines really flowed together much better than on the similar Pontiacs. Enjoy! NTX5467
  9. I believe the speakers in most late model Delco sound systems to be 4 ohm rated. In the '70s time frame, they used 10 ohm speakers when everyone else used 8 or 4 ohm speakers. As for amplifier output, you will not find any "big numbers" there, but you will find ample power to drive most types of music. If you desire music that is very "bass heavy" at loud volumes, you will probably need a complete new system -- and you will also notice how much the rear view mirror will vibrate (which it will do with the factory system in the car now). Personally, the Monsoon system that was/is factory available in Buick Regals is one fine system. It has more output amps than the normal radio too, but don't know how about durability of the speakers with "bass heavy" music material. I was under the impression that the Monsoon system was similar to the Infinity systems, but it now appears that the Monsoon system was strictly an amplifer add-on unit of sorts so you might check with your local Delco Radio Service Station (your dealer could tell you where it is in your area) in that regard. Also, to me at least, the factory systems are fine. Even though the people at the stereo shops will tell you how junky the factory systems are, keep in mind that they are also wanting to sell you a very expensive system themselves so they have a vested interest in calling what you now have "junky" to make you "want to buy" what they have that is allegedly much better. From my observations, for general use you can spend a lot of money and not get something that is significantly better than the factory system (other than in whiz bang cosmetics and other bell/whistle distractions). Your orientations might be different. Make sure that any aftermarket items they might install are installed to at least GM factory quality specs. These shops might have "expert" installers, but sometimes they are more worried about turning the job than having it come back in a year or so with failed wiring connections (when they aren't there any more) or other problems. Key thing is to do it right to start with, especially if additional amps are added to the vehicle (which also might require an upgraded alternator also). As for the nuts and bolts of speaker upgrades, the factory speakers don't "bolt in" any more as they usually have a composite housing that slides into place in the door panel structure and is retained with speed nuts or similar. The Concert Sound II speaker system also has door mounted tweeters as part of the package. The rear speakers are something like 6x9s (might still have screws that retain them) and the Intrigues also had a BOSE option for several years with a factory subwoofer (as does the Aurora). But the BOSE system would have to be duplicated in all aspects to work properly. Unfortunately, there's not a whole lot of extra space to put massive speaker arrays in those cars, especially in the rear deck area. The door panels are also contoured to house what they current house so the only real options there would be coax or triax speakers or putting something more midrange and upper end in the place of the current tweeter (if you have the CS II) speakers. You also need to be cognizant that it doesn't take massive wattages to power the speakers other than the low frequency units. To make lots of bass happen, it takes large excursions of the voice coil and that takes lots of watts to make it happen. In the case of the earlier Chrysler Infinity systems, they quoted something like 120 watts of power, but in that case they had one big amp in the back that powered all of the speakers. The lower frequency speakers were fed the most power and the tweeters were fed much lesser power as they didn't need a lot to work. To get at the advertised power rating, they added the wattages together of all of the speaker output taps to get the "120" (or whatever) figures. Not being sure of "your needs", I might recommend first starting by seeing if the factory radio/speakers will really do what you want them too. You might be surprised. Then, investigate speaker upgrades that will fit in the same place as the current factory speakers without cutting or hacking things up too much, if at all. Remember too, the more aftermarket stereo stuff you hang there--that is obvious to someone walking by--the more likely someone else will see it and want it without paying for it, alarm system or not. You might well want to show off your sound system upgrades but sometimes it's better to be in the stealth mode with those upgrades and not raise any suspicions. Just some thoughts . . . NTX5467
  10. Typically, the center mark on the gauge indicates approximately 210 degrees. The factory thermostats since the first exhaust emission control days have been 195 degree thermostats (except for some LT-1 Chevy V-8 applications which were lower) so seeing the temp needle just below the middle gauge mark is completely normal. Boiling point with a 15psi cap is approximately 260 degrees so there's still some reserve built into the system. The 3.1L V-8 is a later version of the Chevy 2.8L V-6 that has been around for many years. It's standard in many late model Century models with the Buick 3800 V-6 being standard in the Regal models. The same engine is in the base Grand Prix SE with the base Impalas getting the 3.4L version as does the Grand Am and Alero. FYI, I picked up a new Century Custom from the National Car Rental Emerald Isle this past Friday evening. It has the 3.1L V-6 and the temp needle has about one needle width between it and the middle mark on the temp gauge when it's up to operating temperature. Enjoy! NTX5467
  11. In the early '70s, Chevrolet was trying for more of a "Cadillac look" than in prior years with the Caprice. According to John DeLorean's book, Cadillac didn't like that at all back then and claimed it hurt their sales, yet the working man who could only afford a Chevy liked them a lot and Caprice sales soared during those years. When the Caprice came out in mid-year '65, they also added automatic climate control that had not been in Chevies up until that point as well as the new 396 V-8 and TurboHydramatic 400 transmission. Even "Motor Trend" proclaimed it trimed as nicely as a Cadillac in their road test in '65, but considering the differences in weight and wheelbase and length, the Cadillac would be the nicer car to travel in--even though both were good. In those earlier times, options usually were not tied to an option package or specific model as they have been in more current times. Manual transmissions were typically standard, except few people ordered them over the more upscale automatics. If it was "in the book" and didn't affect emisssions certifications, you could probably get it ordered like you wanted (even if the factory rep had to approve it). Similar with exterior color/interior trim combinations. While there were many "accepted" exterior/interior color combinations, there were some listed as "not recommended" but you could get one of those too if you the factory rep knew the customer wanted it that way and was a valid sold order deal. My aunt worked for a CPA in deepest West Texas. They had a customer that got a new Olds every few years and special ordered it with a rubber floor mat instead of the standard (for that model) carpet. He maintained it was easier to keep the sand out of the floor that way. I don't know if the dealer made the swap when they received the car or if they got the factory people to substitute the rubber mat from a cheaper car on the assembly line as some sort of fleet option, but I remember her talking about that "special order" deal. From a more practical and saleable standpoint, if a dealer ordered a car for stock and ordered only a power seat without the complimentary power windows and/or power door locks, he had better know his clientel would like it that way as few other dealers might consider dealer trading for it if they had a vehicle he might sell to one of his customers. Same with tilt wheel and cruise control or power steering/power brakes/air conditioning. If the factory marketing people were trying to build sales interest, they could well make 3-speed manual transmissions standard on everything so they could have a lower "standard equipment vehicle" price point. Even the Chevy Corvette was not immune to that situation. In those days, the gear ratio spreads were similar between the 3-speed automatics and the similar manual transmissions while the manuals would have a mpg or two advantage. Still, when people saw that car it was still a big Buick and that's all that really mattered to them. Everyone these days talks about how "bad" it is to have overlapping product lines. Naturally, they're looking at duplicated effort between the sales divisions and how it affects their operating overhead, but when each of the divisions was their own operating unit they had the flexibility to exploit their "line item option" approach to the fullest and offer the widest variety of total build combinations in the world (instead of the more "cut and dried" import approach). That was one thing that made the cars from the '50s-middle '70s so interesting. The Cadillac Calais was a more "entry price level" Cadillac from the middle '60s. Not only a way to get "step up" customers from Olds and Buick, but also to put more sales on the book against Lincoln as Cadillac ruled that market back then. It may have had "less opulent" appointements than the DeVilles, but it was still a Cadillac that was more affordable than the traditional DeVilles too. Kind of like Cadillac playing the same game as the lower level divisions were, except in reverse. Enjoy! NTX5467
  12. I will agree that there are many interesting vehicles out there--still. Sometimes, it takes "radar" to find them, but that's half of the fun in finding them. Sometimes they are in garages of their original owners, other times in a barn, and other times on out of the way used car lots (these vehicles are "dead iron" on a later model used car lot or vastly over priced on those lots) or filling stations aprons. Sometimes, they also turn up in the "bargain ads"-type newspapers. Many will dismiss them as a "nice old car" as others with our orientation will calmly try to make a deal for this "nice old car" that trips our triggers. Several years ago, one of our members was in GA visiting his father. He picked up the local paper and looked at the car ads. In there was a '71 Buick sedan, listed as a model that didn't exist in that model year, yet he called to inquire. He even went over to see the widowed female owner, but didn't really get interested in it until he got back home. He then flew back down there and bought the car. It was a 30,000 mile original (full size 4-door hardtop) car--right down to the hose clamps--and had only had a water pump put on under warranty. A slick polish and detail, new tires, and a few other similar items and it was a "new" car again. Even the soft trim that usually was deteriorated was still pristine as it had spent it's non-driving life in the garage. It had seen weekly use to go to the grocery store (driven by the house keeper with the owner riding along) so it was still fully operational. Another member purchased a really nice '70 Skylark Custom 2-dr hardtop. Unusual in the aspect that it had a "350-2" air cleaner top when it had a "350-4" carburetor under it. Perhaps the original owner didn't want that "hot rod" motor so the sales person obliged by swapping the air cleaner lids? Seems like it was spec'd out with bucket seats too--a really nice car with "normal" options. Many times, these things turn up when you least espect them, so always keep some money back and a hole in the garage for something of that nature when they make an unplanned appearance. Enjoy! NTX5467
  13. NTX5467

    cam specs?

    Thanks for that additional information. Remember that it's VERY EASY to over-carb a small motor. I suspect that with a stock cam with a stock intake manifold (or even an aftermarket aluminum dual plane), stock exhaust manifolds, and stock exhaust, something in the range of 550 cfm would be about right. Even then, if the secondaries are controlled by air flow, they might not open all of the way at WOT (or until about 5000rpm). The earlier Carter AFBs that GM used had manual secondaries but also had counterweighted "air valves" just above the secondary throttle plates to keep too much air from getting inside too quickly (and lowering power output) and bogging the motor. Chrysler used some in the middle '60s that were full manual secondaries and even at about 525cfm, they were on the verge of bogging a stock 383cid 325 horsepower V-8 from a dead stop. The cam duration deal is an indication of just how "hot" the motor is and what its intended use might be. In order to make a 210 degree at .050 aftermarket cam work in my '77 Chevy 305 with 2.56 gears, I had to recurve the distributor from stock and also had to seriously play with the idle mixture to get it right. I initially used an emission spec Holley 4160 for a '76 350 V-8 on a Holley Z-Line intake. The whole package, being more conservative as it was, got me more power with no loss in fuel economy. When I finally put a 650 cfm 4175 spread bore Holley on it (emission spec for a '79 L-82 Corvette), the mileage went up 2 mpg and felt like another 20 lbs/ft or torque suddenly appeared. That made every day mileage average right at 20mpg in mixed driving. That extra air flow might have come in handy when I totally peeved-off a new '87 Mustang on the Interstate one day (with no traffic in front of us). I know his car was stock as it still had the paper tag in the rear window, hehe. Email me if you have any other concerns on your proposed combination. NTX5467
  14. There are some other considerations related to customer demographics and such. In the middle '60s, the more affluent society was poised to move from mundane Fords, Chevrolets, Plymouths, and other lower market level cars into the middle line luxury Mercurys, Pontiacs, Buicks, Oldsmobiles, Dodges, and Chryslers. A loaded Caprice was in the same price territory as the LeSabre, Delta88, and Bonneville just as the Plymouth VIP and Dodge Monaco was in Chrysler Newport territory. Similar with the LeSabre and Wildcat also. So, basically the same money would buy a basic Wildcat or a more loaded LeSabre. I suspect that people in love with the swoopier version of Buick's swoopy lines in the middle '60s would rather opt for a less optioned Wildcat than an everyday LeSabre (like most other people had), especially if they liked hardtops. Similarly, I suspect a loaded Wildcat would be close to Electra territory so that whole orientation started over again. As I recall back then, it was more important to drive the nicer Buicks, Chryslers, and Mercuries (regardless of option level, especially if they had automatic transmissions, A/C, and such) than worry about whether or not it "had every option in the book". As was stated, the extra stuff was suspected of causing trouble and did not affect the basic usefullness of the vehicle. If, for example, you needed power seats, you could get that separate and tilt/telescope steering wheels were complimentary options when available. As the bulk of these cars (especially away from the north) were air conditioned, power windows really were not needed. FM radios were only useful near a metro area too. And then there were the dealers who would advertise a stipper vehicle price in the paper or on television (and had to have product to support those ads) so that could be another orientation for "low content" vehicles. Then too, some of the older buyers just didn't want all of that "stuff" on their car as they didn't use it anyway--right down to the radio. Then, at model year's end, the low optioned cars had to be sold so they were sold to people who "got a real deal" on that Buick with a manual transmission (not a 4-speed). Lots of variables involved. Some due to financial demographics of the areas, some due to dealer marketing concerns, and some due to what the factory was trying to promote. If Buick, for example, was close to getting a sales edge on a competitor, they might urge the dealers to order more lower option cars they could sell less expensively and the factory advertising would then support the "few dollars a month more . . ." orientation in their national/regional advertising. Still nice cars by any measure, just not "gut loaded" and much pricier as a result. Being that many "more senior" people were loyal Buick buyers and had the house with a garage to keep their cars in, these more value conscious people probably didn't trade as often but still kept their cars nice and kept them serviced. Whereas, I suspect the more highly optioned vehicles were much more prone to be bought, traded-in, "used", trashed, salvaged, etc. much earlier in their lives. I know things didn't happen that way in all instances, but I suspect that might have been a more common trend. Enjoy! NTX5467
  15. What needs to be considered is that the bolt is designed to break before it would hurt the threads into which it is screwed. That tends to dictate a somewhat soft material that will also rust easier than a harder bolt would. Yet, when it rusts it should also have enough porosity that a really good penetrant would work. I concur that a harder Grade 8 bolt or stainless fasteners would tend to lessen the problem, as would anti-seize compound. Only thing is to check to see if the specified bolt/nut torque is rated for lubricated fasteners or for dry threads. The anti-seize compound could provide enough more effective lubrication to make 35 "pounds" of torque equalte to 50 "pounds" with dry threads, for example. Hence, be careful so you don't pull the threads out when you tighten things down. Typically, a stud is a better fastener than a bolt as the stud will provide a more stable mount and could save the threads as it will stay put as the items attached to it are removed and reinstalled frequently. Plus, a stud can bottom out in the hole whereas a bolt never should bottom out in the hole. There are reasons that studs are used in some places and bolts in others, other than just ease of assembly or item cost. Just some thoughts . . . NTX5467
  16. You will need that appraisal in case of loss--even with a stated value policy. All a stated/agreed value policy does is set a maximum limit on the insurance company's liability in the case of a loss AND set the rates you pay. Other than that, it's just like a regular policy and in the case of a loss, you'll still have to deal with an adjuster as they will still pay just as they did before--meaning you'll still have to prove the value of the vehicle at the time of the loss. They'll still want to deduct salvage value and such as part of the settlement too. Pretty much all classic/antique "limited use policies" do NOT allow for daily use and cap the mileage in the 2000-3000mile/year range. Just because you have a restored vehicle that is used for daily transportation doesn't mean you can get classic/antique insurance for it or probably run antique license plates on it either (with some exceptions). Therefore, you probably would be better of with a regular automotive policy and put the appraisal on file in your safe deposit box and a copy with your insurance agent. The rates probably would be cheaper and you'd still have the same coverages as you desire with the antique vehicle insurance policy. My personal and professional orientation is that any vintage vehicle which you can't readily buy NOS, used, or reproduction parts for (particular with respect to "crash parts"!) should NOT be used for regular, daily transportation. Basically, let the collector vehicle stay in the garage except for special situations or "maintenance runs" and use an "expendable" vehicle for the regular day to day running around that is done plus to and from work. That way, you'll be spared the grief of chasing parts to rebuild it after some thoughtless "person" in an "appliance vehicle" does something stupid, not to mention haggling with the insurance over a settlement/repair situation. It might be really neat to drive a vintage vehicle every day, but after the sudden hail storm that rolled through the DFW area several years ago, when a beautiful day turned really nasty later in the afternoon (vehicles looked like the outer surface of golf balls and convertible tops were shredded! from the large and heavy hail storm, not to mention the holes in the windshields and such!), that was probably the best argument for NOT using collector vehicles for daily transportation. What you do with your vehicle is your determination, but doing some advance damage control to prevent possible future grief might be taken into consideration also. Just some thoughts . . . NTX5467
  17. Supercharager Oil is available from GM Parts. It's a small bottle like the PosiTraction additive comes in. The provisions for changing it should be in the owner's manual and certainly in the GM Service Manual. I believe it's a synthetic type of oil and the change/service interval might be 50,000 miles. Check your owner's manual. I understand that the oil can have a strong smell when it hasn't been changed often enough. I would suspect that if the noise was indeed from the supercharger, it should not be affected by whether the car is in gear or not. I would espect it to be constant and louder at higher rpms (and under boost conditions). Otherwise, check the spring loaded belt tensioners as they can sometimes rattle when they are getting ready to "have a problem". Also check the lower crank pulley/damper as they have been known to have some age related problems too. When the load on the engine is changed (i.e., as when going from Park/Neutral into a "Drive" position), the crankshaft will move slightly plus change the harmonics of the belt as it does. If the noise is louder in gear, does it go away or change when you load the engine against the foot brake to the equivalent rpm it would be in Park/Neutral? Considering there are probably more GTP Grand Prixs and SSEi Bonnevilles running around than supercharged Buicks, you might seek a Pontiac dealer's service people for a second opinion. Considering that in the long while we had Buicks at the dealership I work at, that I had no inquiries from customers on the cost to replace a supercharger, I got the impression that they are pretty trouble free and we didn't have enough calls for the Supercharger Oil to keep it in stock. All of that considered, I really suspect the trouble is probably not in the supercharger. What about the other belt driven accessories? A/C compressor? Etc.? Just some thoughts . . . NTX5467
  18. Sounds like a valve body issue, as you mentioned engine rpm (which would influence line pressures and such in the transmission itself). Could be a leaking gasket/seal issue that would be fixed with new seal items or be a warped valve body that needs replacing. Could also be the shift valves and their related springs that calibrate when things happen. I suspect it will not be a manual shift linkage issue if you see no movement on the shift lever, unless there's something loose internally in that respect. There could be something that's more specific to the particular transmission in that vehicle, so I'm speaking in generalities that could affect most any automatic transmission. I recommend you get that car to a reputable trans shop or the dealer and get it fixed before it causes more problems or property damage. Might plan on a full overhaul while you're at it too. NTX5467
  19. Motor Trend magazine did a combination road test article on both a Wildcat 2x4bbl convertible and a 1x4bbl hardtop in 1964. I suspect you can get some good pics of the exhaust exit locations and such from that article. Seems like it was in about March or April of '64. Also some good engine shots too. Enjoy! NTX5467
  20. NTX5467

    cam specs?

    Starting in '65, Peterson Publishing Company put out an annual "Complete Book of Engines" that covered all of the production engines for North American built cars. It also included ALL of the SAE specs for the engines plus had a write up on each engine family. In the back were some articles on modifications, historical information, and such. Quite nice items to have! They continued doing one each year up until about '75. The "advertised" cam specs are or should be to the SAE procedures, which should be (if I remember correctly) at .006" lobe lift on intake and .008" lobe lift on the exhaust. Going by the specs of some repro cam manufacturers that offer "equivalent" cams will not yield the EXACT same specs as the factory cams as to do so without a license would be copyright infringement--therefore, all of the "equivalent" cams will have a little more duration and/or lift and/or lobe centerline changes. That's why a Melling 350/350 cam for a Chevy small block sounds so much wilder than the stock GM 350/350 cam does in the same motor. As for the .050" duration numbers, the Chrysler guys claim that you can generally take the factory's advertised total duration numbers and multiply them by .80 on normal stock cams and .85 on higher performance cams to approximate the .050" duration numbers. As mentioned, the factory numbers are according to SAE specified procedures. The .050" numbers were developed by the aftermarket cam vendors to standardize how their cams were spec'd out so you'd know what you were getting. The general orientation is that by the time the lifter has moved .050" higher than the base lobe circle of the cam, it's past any clearance or transitionary ramps on the lobe profile and into the "meat" of things. On some Chevrolet cams, they allegedly used to include these ramps in their specs and generate some very large duration numbers for otherwise mild cams. The .050" orientation came along in the '70s or thereabouts so the only way to get these numbers for a factory cam would be to find one and degree it to determine the lift and timing event numbers. I happen to have the '69 edition (#5) close by and here are the numbers on the '69 Buick 350 2bbl & 4bbl V-8. The numbers for the 300 might be similar, but until I find the earlier version, you can use these as a general guide. Intake -- Opens BTDC -- 24 Closes ABDC -- 78 Total -- 282 degrees Exhaust - Opens BBDC -- 70 Closes ATDC -- 38 Total -- 288 degrees Overlap -- 62 degrees Lobe Lift -- Intake/Exhaust >> .243"/.247" Rocker Ratio -- 1.55 Valve Lift = Lobe Lift x Rocker Ratio Hope this might help you in your search, NTX5467
  21. Just by chance, have you had the transmission fluid and filter changed lately? If not, it might be advisable as that whine could be a pump wanting more fluid flow. The Buick V-6 is very torquey at lower rpm levels, but there's not enough there to lug that car with several people up a hill at 40mph in OD and it not first unlock the lock-up torque converter and then grab a downshift to the next lower gear. If you try to run that route with the cruise control on, it'll really be doing that stuff. The current LeSabres, in OD, for example, take 80mph to get to 2000rpm on the tach on the level roads. You might also check with the dealer to see if there are some updates they can "flash" into the computer to possibly help what's going on, but the best advice would be (as stated) to just put it in "D" and not "OD" when you are in the hills. An engine that runs at a little higher rpms (and stays up on the torque curve in so doing) under less load will probably get better mpg than one that's lugging around under higher load at lower speeds. It will take less throttle to let the engine run in "D" and therefore keep the computer from putting more fuel into the engine also. Everything will be much happier that way and the transmission will see less wear and tear also. Same with non-fuel injected and non-computered cars with OD transmissions too. Just some additional thoughts, NTX5467
  22. Seems this situation (door and ign keys being the same) exists prior to about the '74 model year in Buicks, after further research. Enjoy! NTX5467
  23. NTX5467

    1995 Riviera

    I don't know if this is really a wear issue, but most of the later superchargers were built so you could change the oil in them. There is a particular GM part number on that special lube as the supercharger has its own oil supply/reservoir. Seems like the first year supercharged 3800 did not have that provision, but the later ones did. In any event, check the owners manual on that issue. In general, they are good cars with strong body construction (as mentioned). Emjoy! NTX5467
  24. If they aren't damaged, but just need rekeying, a reputable locksmith can do that. From what I've seen of the aftermarket lock sets, they usually have the door cylinders as one set (not including the deck lid or glove box) and then an ignition cylinder. In other words, just partial sets. GM only serviced them as bare cylinders with only the ignition cylinder coming with keys in it. A good locksmith can take your door and deck lid cylinders apart, clean them, replace the tumblers and springs, lube things accordingly, and be good a new. More expensive than buying the ready made sets, but then you can use your existing door key, plus the ready made sets typically don't include the deck lid cylinder in them. The ignition cylinder (steering column) is best replaced with a new one (as that's the only one that key fits anyway). Hope this helps . . . NTX5467
×
×
  • Create New...