Jim

I have changed several of them and you do not have to loosen the strut at the top. Maybe 4 inches of swing was not right but I do know the knuckle will move more than enough in all directions to get the ball joint to line up. You will have to point the ball joint stud in the exact right direction for it to slide up into the knuckle. This usually takes me two tries. The first time to see how much off I am with the angle of the stud and then move it to the right angle and then the second time it slides right up into the knuckle.

Weird. Waterford's zip code is 48327 and just yesterday I sent a passenger side control arm to 48316. He should get it tomorrow. Can't be too far from you. There should be no problem with the ball joint lining up with the bottom of the strut as the strut is suspended from the top and you can move it in any direction about 4 inches to line up with the stud part of the ball joint. I am assuming you put the bolt into the frame where the A frame connects to the cradle, the rod is into the cradle in the front and the ball joint is attached to the control arm with the strut still hanging from the strut tower. Put a bar of some kind on the A frame to put down pressure on the A frame and then position the knuckle with the strut attached over the stud part of the ball joint and let the A frame/ball joint rise into the knuckle.

Last fall my son made me a reproduction of those clips. With my convertibles put away for the winter, I was not able to try it. I will do so, today or tomorrow and should have some available.

I have two of them on my shelf. Jim

I guess that is why it is always best to buy parts from someone reliable, like me . With a good reputation, experience and fair prices.

Kingsley Baker is 100% reliable and has excellent products at VERY reasonable prices. If you get a top from him you will get a top shortly after ordering it. Part of the reason I replied is I saw your posted picture and it caught my eye. I have a '39 Buick coupe the same color as your '40

The castings are different also so there is a flat spot for the switch bracket to mount.

From my 16 years of experience with Reattas I thought this can't be right, so I went and took a picture. Both sides have the switches. The handle on the right is a drivers side. If you were to turn this handle around so the outside is facing you, the part where the yellow tipped rod from the latching mechanism would be to the rear of the car, making this a drivers side handle. The others pictured are passenger side. Again turning these around puts the latch to the rear of the car, making them passenger side handles. This was the case on all '88-90 Reattas. The '91s did not have the switch.

88-90 Reattas had a switch on the back side of the handle assembly. '91 Reattas and other GM cars did not. I have a good handle available. If interested email me and let me know the color of your car. Jim

88-89 Reattas------ BCM means Body Computer Module and controls the functions of the body. ECM means Engine Computer Module and controls the functions of the engine. IPC means Instrument Panel Cluster. With the key on, engine running or not, go the climate screen on the CRT and press and hold the off and warm buttons at the same time. The service engine soon lamp will light and the ECM codes will be listed followed by the BCM codes and then the IPC codes. They go by quite fast so you may want to write them down. Any code with a "h" after it will be a code that was current, but is not now, and is listed a "history" code. Any code that does not have an "h" is a current code. ECM codes will start with a "e" and then 3 digits, BCM with a "b" etc. After the codes are listed the screen will say ECM? This means do you want to diagnose the ECM. If there were "e" codes push "yes" if not, push "no" and the screen will go to the BCM? If there are ECM codes after pushing "yes" it will ask several questions. Keep pushing "no" until the question "ECM code reset" comes up and then push "yes". You can go from the ECM to the BCM and then to the IPC and clear any codes. You can't hurt anything by doing this procedure and even if you make a mistake simply push "end" or shut off the key and everything will go back to normal. 90-91 Reattas----- Turn on the key and on your ECC ( climate control module ) push the "off" and temperature up ( up arrow ) at the same time and hold them until the car goes into the diagnostic mode. You will see all of the lights on the IPC light up and the trouble codes will then be read out where the mileage usually is. Write down the codes as they go by. They go by pretty fast so write them down quickly and watch for the next. First you will get the engine codes eg. Exxx, then you will get the body codes eg. Bxxx then some IPC codes eg. Rxxx and maybe an SIR code. If any code has an "h" after it that means it is a code in history and not current. No "h" means it is a current code. After all the codes have displayed you will get a Ec? this means do you want to diagnose the engine computer. Pressing the Fan down arrow you will be telling the computer no, the fan up arrow means yes. If you did get any Ec codes and you want to clear them, when you get the Ec? push yes and then it will ask you questions, keep pushing no until it asks if you want to clear the E codes then push yes. If you have no E codes and/or want to go to the B codes when it asks you Ec? push the fan down button for no and it will then ask you Bc, and you can push yes. It will then ask you questions and you continue pushing no until it ask CLR b code and you push the up fan for yes. You cannot hurt anything or screw up anything by doing this and if you make a mistake simply turn off the key and start over or push the bi-level button next to the fan switch.

I believe the 3D printers can only make plastic parts. They take reels of plastic line, of different kinds of plastic, and send them through a heater that melts the line just as it is applying it to the part it is making. Building the part from a program.

Sort of odd timing. About three days ago I got an email from someone looking for two of each piece. I said I had them but was running low on them. He emailed back asking it they could be reproduced on a 3D printer. I emailed back saying I thought they could but there might be a problem with the grain effect on the cover. I also mentioned I am familiar with these 3D printers as my son ( who lives in GB but is moving even closer to Dave, moving to DePere ) made his own 3D printer and made me another part for the Reattas already. That part has been sitting on my work bench for about 6 months as I have been forgetting to test it in a real car. His machine should be able to exactly duplicate the insert and also the cover but as I mentioned maybe the grain would be a problem. Exactly duplicating the insert is not important as it is not seen and the under side of the cover is also not a problem but the part you see, should look like the factory intended. I will contact him to see what he thinks.

As soon as I finish typing this, I will be boxing up a pair of blue horn buttons and sending them to Indiana. I have more available and can be reached at jfinn@cpinternet.com For a new top contact Kinglsey Baker at hkbjr@yahoo.com

About two weeks ago Ed and I went to a British car show in Columbia. Had a nice time and saw a lot of nice rare cars.

The good news is I was able to ride one of my snowmobiles in April which doesn't happen very often.

I am told we got 17 inches of snow which is unusual. We do get snows in April but not this much. I guess we were due though, the last two years I was riding my Gold Wing in early March and continued through summer.

I hit a few golf balls this morning but couldn't find them. Maybe an orange ball would have helped.

As part of one of the tours Ron and April Gill planned a few years ago we all went to the Gilmore. GREAT place.

Another thought came to me, while you have the door panels off clean and grease the tracks for the windows. This is them most common reason for slow windows.

The solenoids rarely go bad from my experience but the rubber grommet on the shaft will cut because of the poor design of the metal piece that goes through it. That piece is too sharp. Replacing, if you can find one, or making some sort of a replacement grommet should take care of the problem, along with lubricating all the pivot and slide points.

You are welcome on the wheel. I didn't think those mounts were available anymore which is why I asked which mount. Please post here after you get the mount and get it installed.

George, Which mount went bad? The one on the drivers side under the large aluminum mount or the one on the rear passenger side? Jim

maybe I could send you a nice full box of nuts and bolts for future projects

I once shipped a windshield to a fellow in Spokane WA. I boxed it up and put it on the Amtrak train and he took it off the train in Spokane. He worked for Amtrak. I have a good windshield here in Duluth but will not ship one. Try these places Farrells 360 424 4231 Mt Vernon WA Gundies 800 444 4344 Bellingham WA All American Classics 800 955 4999 Vancouver WA Caveman 800 443 0531 Grants Pass OR

Bob, Put that little red Cushman scooter in overdrive and take a trip to AL and get me some parts. I will gladly pay for the gas in the Cushman. or better yet drive the Landau. Jim