IFDPete
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Posts posted by IFDPete
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@edinmass beautiful work on the battery box. I have not made one yet. What gauge steel did you use?
@Morgan Wright my block also has the taper at the bottom. Pistons were a puzzle to get out with having to move the crankshaft around to different positions for each cylinder. Not much room to clear the crank once they are almost out of the bottom of the cylinder. Good idea on feeler gauges.
I saw that @Mark Kikta in his 1922 Engine Progress thread (page 7) lowered and reassembled his jug with all six pistons inserted in the cylinders. I am undecided as to using his "piston in" method or taking my time and doing them one at a time from underneath.
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After thinking about this a few hours...I am leaning towards Mark's piston in the block method. It might be easier if I go slow lowering the block. I had a devil of a time getting the pistons out from underneath and am kind of dreading pushing them back in from the bottom. There is very little room to line them up straight.
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When is the last time you changed your fuel filter?
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Beautiful New Water Tube Received !!!!!
If you have been following this saga, you will recall on page one that I found a hole and a lot of corrosion in my original 1921 water tube.
What a beautiful week it was. I received my new water tube from fabricator Roger McGinnis. It took about 6 months from making contact with him. Roger sent me some templates to match up with my original 1921 tube and guess what...none were tall enough. I sent Roger my original tube and he had to make tooling to match my tube. So there was a delay as I could not just buy a tube that he already had patterns for. He had never seen a tube as tall as mine was for Buicks. It fits perfectly and is an exact match of my original. Great craftsmanship and he was easy to work with.
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Freeze Plugs
On page 2 of this thread when I pulled the original freeze plugs from the block I was impressed with their thickness and durability for their age. I wished I could find NOS freeze plugs to replace them.
@Terry Wiegand noted in one of his threads on the restoration of his early Buick that the freeze plugs he could find locally had CHINA stamped into them. I too found those Dorman made in CHINA plugs at the chain auto stores around Indianapolis.
After some searching I was able to locate some old stock freeze plugs made here in the USA (Huntington, Indiana). The store was a Carquest in Cicero Indiana that had these PIK-A-NUT plugs that the clerk said were probably from the late 1960's or early1970's. I looked up PIK-A-NUT on the internet and found out that Dorman bought the company but I am not sure when. The metal on these are thick .050 inches on my gauge. So these were what I used on my 1921 block. They should last as long as the originals.
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I used the good weather this week to clean up the aluminum crankcase in preparation for engine reassembly. I covered the crankshaft with plastic, sealed up the valve lifter tubes with some foam wrapped in plastic bags, sealed up the distributor with a plastic cup taped on, place some cardboard to protect the firewall, radiator and fenders. I sprayed with aluminum safe degreaser and let it soak. Then I power washed the grease and grime off. Next step will be to order an engine gasket set from Olsen's Gaskets and get things put back together.
You can see the thick layer of grease & grime on the crankcase in the picture below. This was the engine as found before disassembly.
After cleaning:
It still needs some cleaning but is good enough to get things back together. My goal is to get the engine running so I can back the car out and pull it back in as needed. Then i can do more detailed cleaning.
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Engine Block back from Machine Shop -
I received my engine block back from the machine shop and cylinders were within required tolerances. Shop said we could just deglaze the cylinders and re-ring the pistons. So that work was done and I went and picked up the block & pistons. The weather has been great the past few days in Indiana so I took the time to paint the block. Taping off the block for painting was tedious and took me about 2.5 hours to complete the prep. Now that the block is painted you have to really look to see where any of the stitching was done to fix it.
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1 hour ago, redbaron1930 said:
Thanks! At this point I am suspicious of a main bearing problem but my guess it this is a well worn engine and I'll be doing a complete rebuild. When I got the car 14 years ago speedometer said almost 40,000 (a lot of miles for this vintage!)
40000 miles 14 years ago....what does odometer say now? 14 years of use with no rebuild or babbits is a pretty good run with such an old car.
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Great to see these early Buicks on display at today's AACA Grand National show in Bettendorf, Iowa. A beautiful sunny day where these cars shined. Can only wish they were my Buicks.
1910 Buick Model 16
1910 Buick Model F
1929 Buick 29-50 - A Zenith award competitor this year
1932 Buick Model 96C
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58 minutes ago, maok said:
Pull apart a 12 volt jump starter and stick a 6 volt battery in it. I'm sure there is a bit more than that but hey why not give it a go.
Been there done that. Sealed lead acid batteries in jump starters are pretty small compared to car batteries. I did swap the 12v sealed lead acid battery for a similar size 6v in a jump starter once. The 6v did not have enough power to turn my 49 Buick straight eight.
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As a newbie to demountable rims I appreciate the feedback on the video and its shortcomings. Apparently I have some things to learn.
All this is a good lesson in better practices and procedures for mounting a tire. Not too many guys in my area who know old brass era and pre war cars. The internet is my classroom. Like all things- the lesson is only as good as the instructor. I do have some tires to change and will try the ways posted by @Hubert_25-25 and @JohnS25.
The good news is that newbies like me can learn from others mistakes and get proper guidance. I am grateful for this forum and the knowledge you guys share.
I adjusted the wording in my video post above to explain that the video is not the way to do it. I shared bad information but have hopefully corrected it for a better learning tool.
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Here is a video on demountable rim tube and tire replacement. THIS IS HOW NOT TO DO IT.
See @Hubert_25-25 post below for better procedure.
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Ok @Brian_Heil..looks like Bobs Automobilia has some issues I was not aware of - product issues and sounds like a complete disregard for their customers and customer service in your situation.😖
@2nd Gen Collector Here is an NOS rotor I found for you for sale right now on Ebay for less money than Bobs:😊
Good luck with everything 🍀 - Pete
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Bobs Automobilia - a Buick parts supplier in California has the rotor you need.
1 (805) 434-2963
BobsAutomobilia.com
Hope you are up and running soon.
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@budd28 - I love the headlight lens pattern and the aged purple hued glass. No bumper just like it left the factory. Great to see an original car sitting so proud on the show field. Thanks for sharing the picture - you made my day!
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Great news on getting the ring and glass off. Now you can get it cleaned up and oiled. Did the clock work before you opened it up? Does it keep good time? You can adjust the clock speed using the little lever between 1 and 2.
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John - I am the owner of the 1921 Buick that had 2 large water jacket cracks fixed that EmTee referred to in the posting above. Read through my 1921 Revival Saga thread and message me with any questions you may have. I thought that the cracks in my block would be near impossible to fix and I was wrong. My cracks were cold stitched and the water jacket sealed up by an expert (Frank Casey). I was very happy with the results. The linked thread in the above post by EmTee has before and after photos of both cracks.
Your engine block looks like it could be cold stitched as well. Postal mail Frank Casey (his contact info is in the above referenced thread) some pictures of your block and your name and number. Then talk to him about your block after he gets the photos. Frank does not use email. It is worth your effort just to discuss things with him. Don't rush into any repair decisions on your engine. Good luck. Pete
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John Nelson - I am the owner of the 1921 Buick that had 2 large water jacket cracks fixed that EmTee referred to in the posting above. Read through my 1921 Revival Saga thread and message me with any questions you may have. I thought that the cracks in my block would be near impossible to fix and I was wrong. My cracks were cold stitched by an expert. I was very happy with the results. The linked thread in the above post by EmTee has before and after photos. Good luck. Pete
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Mark - My 1921 sill plates are smooth metal with no pattern etched or stamped into them. I suspect 1922 was the same. Interesting that my closed car has a bead stamped into it and yours is flat. Closed car has bead to keep rain water out and open car flat to let water out?? That's my guess. Pete
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Do the multi disc clutches that were built after cone clutches (like on my 1921) tend to also stick to the flywheel as well? Do they also need to be stored with a stick holding the clutch? Mine seems to be free but I was just wondering after reading this post.
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Fuel Tank Back from Repair & Sealing
I received my fuel tank back from the shop a few weeks ago but had forgotten to update this saga. Shop said the tank had "more holes than the Titanic." All the rust flakes inside the tank before repair were the two disintegrated baffle walls. Shop put in two new baffles, lead soldered the holes, replaced the tank end walls, coated the interior, pressure tested the tank and then put a primer coat on it. I will paint it when I get closer to reinstalling it. I am going to work on the fuel level sender before painting because I will probably have to do a lot of test fitting to get it right. Here is before and after fuel tank pictures:
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How about this 140 weight GL-3 oil from the UK that I found on Amazon $29.99 4L can. It looked to me like it would be a compatible formula for our older transmissions. Anyone have an opinion?
Rhino 140
A multi-purpose mild EP gear oil for use in most types of sliding pinion gearboxes. It is particularly suited for use in light to moderately loaded reduction gears,worm gears and certain bevel gears. Widely used in the transmission and final drives of certain older cars and commercial vehicles where its viscosity and lower EP activity are appropriate. Fully compatible with bronze or brass gears, bushes and bearing cages.
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SPECIFICATION
- API GL3
https://www.silkolene.com/motorcycle/classic-oils/rhino-140/
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Steffen - I replaced my missing fan belt on 1921 Buick with a Gates 814 classic flat belt. 1 1/8 in x 31.5 inch (28mm x 800 mm) after measuring as recommended on modeltford.com (Lang's Old Car Parts - a vendor specializing in Model T parts). Their procedure is as follows:
- First, adjust the fan to it's lowest position.
- Second, run a piece of string around the pulleys.
- Third, measure the string. This is the length needed for your belt.
- Do not measure with a steel tape, it won't bend tight enough around the pulleys and will give a false measurement. Also do not measure around the outside of an old belt, you will get a reading longer than you need.
Search "Belts" at modeltford.com and you will see quite a few fan belts of different lengths and materials (modern flat belt or leather).
The Gates 814 is a classic flat belt made in modern material for durability.
Also, a search on Gates website has other classic flat belts of different widths and lengths. I just used a permanent black marker to cover up the belt manufacturer writing.
If you are only wanting a leather fan belt they can be found at Then and Now Automotive in premade sizes or custom made to your needs.
www.then-now-auto.com/product-category/leather-fan-belts/
Hopefully using these resources you can find a belt in the length and width you need. Good luck - Pete
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Anyone have experience with Seal All brand Oil & Gas resistant sealant / adhesive? Does it work? I am rebuilding my carburetor from my 1921 Buick and was going to use it on the float. It is found online and locally at many stores.
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Paul - sorry to hear it won't budge. If you can carefully heat up the ring around the threads it may expand the ring enough to get it to move. Just try not to torch on the glass side and crack or shatter the glass. Take your time slowly heating with glass face down on table. Evenly and slowly heat it and with gloved hand see if it will unscrew while hot. Alternatively, you could heat it for expansion, reapply oil and let it soak so that it might penetrate further.
Changing most of the prewar fluids, what do you recommend?
in Buick - Pre War
Posted · Edited by IFDPete
wording (see edit history)
An alternative to using a stocking or a Gano filter is a product called a TEFBA filter. I stumbled on these about 10 years ago. I have one installed on my 1949 Buick Super and I have purchased one for when I put my 1921 Buick engine back together. They install in the upper radiator hose and catch particles before coolant enters the radiator. They have a screw on cap on top and the screen is easy to lift out and clean. I also have circular donut magnet dropped in it that fits around the center pole to hold onto contaminants. TEFBA filters are made in Australia. They come in different sizes 1 1/4", 1 1/2" etc. After using this product on my 49 for the last 10 years I highly recommend them. I have purchased them off of Ebay but you can find them other places on the internet. Easy to install and clean out and they get the job done. Only downside is that they need to be installed level or only at a slight incline and also at, or above, the highest coolant level (near the top of the radiator). That way when you open it coolant doesn't just run out from the top. First two pics are the install on my 49 Super.