DITCHBURN 1928 Pontiac

HelloJough...the tag location and number indicate that it is likely a 1923 - 1925 - ( Chassis Serial # Stamped on a plate attached to the chassis in back of the left front wheel.). Other years have the ID tag on the top of the frame rail or on the right side of the vehicle. Those could be wagon wheel rims...they look small diameter.

1968 to 72 Chevy Nova Centre caps for sale, 9.25" dia x 7 inch ID rim mount lip, 2 only pretty clean, buff up and install. $50 for the pair. 1967 to 73? Chev pickup truck chrome hubcaps for 1/2 ton 5-bolt rims, 10.75" dia, very nice condition, Qty. - 4 only. $100. for all four. Single wheel trim ring, 15" dia, pretty good condition, $20.00 * 3- wheel trim rings, 16.5" o/s dia fit 15" rims, not perfect, some minor dings, $30.00 for all 3. * 3 Chevy 60's Nova or Chevy 2 SS finned hub caps, fit 14" dia, $30.00 for all 3 * 2 Chevy SS Tri-spoke hub caps, fit 14" rims, $20.00 for pair Tax and shipping extra Visa/Mastercard/cash/e-transfer/ U.S. funds transfer also accepted Dditchburn@persona.ca 705-749-8827 Visit my Facebook page > Ditchburn Antique & Classic Auto Parts | Facebook or click below for other misc. parts. https://www.facebook.com/Ditchburn-Antique-Classic-Auto-Parts-494410267264714/

1968 to 72 Chevy Nova Centre caps for sale, 9.25" dia x 7 inch ID rim mount lip, 2 only pretty clean, buff up and install. $50 for the pair. 1967 to 73? Chev pickup truck chrome hubcaps for 1/2 ton 5-bolt rims, 10.75" dia, very nice condition, Qty. - 4 only. $100. for all four. Single wheel trim ring, 15" dia, pretty good condition, $20.00 * 3- wheel trim rings, 16.5" o/s dia fit 15" rims, not perfect, some minor dings, $30.00 for all 3. * 3 Chevy 60's Nova or Chevy 2 SS finned hub caps, fit 14" dia, $30.00 for all 3 * 2 Chevy SS Tri-spoke hub caps, fit 14" rims, $20.00 for pair Tax and shipping extra Visa/Mastercard/cash/e-transfer/ U.S. funds transfer also accepted Dditchburn@persona.ca 705-749-8827 Visit my Facebook page > Ditchburn Antique & Classic Auto Parts | Facebook

I wish I could remember what I used...but I think I found some copper tubing at the building supply store. The diameter is also similar to a household vacuum metal hose pipe and also similar thickness. That may also work. The Water tube is repairable but it requires some inventive enginuity. If you don't weld I am sure a good welding shop could help you.

Sorry to laugh but the tubing is not available. MINE HAD A LOT OF PINHOLES and leaks. I tried brazing the holes with oxy acetylene but the thin metal would burn through. I had two water pipe/thermostat housings and both bad. Fortunately on mine the curved end at the flange was still salvageable. I cut off the straight section of pipe leaving enough stub sticking out of the larger casting end and was able to splice in a new piece of tubing. Sanded the weld smooth enough to end up with a good looking original.

Just for everyone's future interest. Resealing gas tanks works very well. Years ago I resealed the gas tank on my 1967 Pontiac Tempest during the restoration process. Just follow the directions on the can and it WORKS!

WOW.... Thank you for sharing all this information John and everyone else who added to it. Very interesting.

I have lots of left over used parts for sale from my 1928 Pontiac Restoration from back in the '80s. They have been stored under my work bench for years and it is time to sell them to whoever needs them. (Not expensive). I have a complete engine block (seized but should free up). Two other bare blocks, two seized trannies for parts. I have (6) Now (3) cylinder heads, two crankshafts, pistons & rods (Sold), camshaft, 2-flywheel/clutch assemblies, driveshaft/torque tube, Differential from a 1929, knee action shocks (Sold 2)(4 others seized but may be rebuildable) , two wood spoke wheels. I have just joined the online version of the AACA forum and have seen your interest in 1928 parts. I am a former owner of a 1928 Pontiac 2 dr sedan Model 8240. I restored my Pontiac back in the 1980's and sold the car to a guy in Indiana who has since sold it to someone in Michigan. I still have a pile of used parts for the car stored under my workbench including transmissions, cylinder heads, shocks, wood spoke wheels, flywheel/clutch assemblies, 2 engine blocks. Refer to my current Facebook marketplace ads > Ditchburn Antique & Classic Auto Parts | Facebook DitchburnAuto@eastlink.ca

These waterpumps are fragile so be careful. They are also hard to find in rebuildable condition. I had two and sold them to a guy in Australia.. Do what Kornkurt states above. I never could completely eliminate water pump leaks. Short drives were ok but on long drives it would leak terrible. I had to carry a water jug with me and a water pump wrench to tighten the 1 inch nut on trips.. The indian head rad cap ornament would also leak under pressure. I ended up using a Motometer rad cap gauge to keep an eye on the coolant temps.

I have 6 split head cylinder heads for 27 to 30 Pontiac

Good luck....Mine was also bad. The casting portion cleans up really well but that 6" long straight tube is made of a thin tube material and developes pin holes. I was fortunate to be able to replace the tube and reuse the casting

I concur with the light green. When I was rebuilding my 28 engine I found traces of a light green almost military shade. I think I got it from Hirsch paints.

I know that the oil pan lip at the rear of the block face sometimes gets slightly bent out of shape and the manual states that the lip needs to be flat and straight.

The oil pressure is adjustable. on the exterior side of the block there is a bolt with a locknut above where there is a brass tube line going to the filter. Loosen the lock nut and turn the bolt in about a 1/4" turn. this will increase pressure on the internal spring while increasing oil pressure. This sometimes needs to be adjusted between summer and winter temperatures. Do not use multi viscosity oil. Use only HD 40 weight in summer (sometimes 50 weight) and 30 weight in winter. If the oil is too thin the oil pressure will drop.

Perhaps you could be more specific. I am going to presume you are referring to engine parts as opposed to body, interior, wheels or driveline. The early 1928 engine utilized left over 1927 blocks and had 36 hp while the 1930 had 60 hp. Mid to Late 1928 engines were carried forward into 1929 however horsepower increased to 46. The engine block was very similar. Horsepower improvements were mainly due to improved larger 1.25" bore carburetion; Carter carbs were replaced with Marvel carburetors, redesigned slightly smaller cylinder head combustion chambers allowing 4.9 to 1 ratio, improved intake manifold. The late 28 engine had slightly larger valves with slightly increased lift which carried into the 29 model year. (I don't have the actual sizes...you would need to measure and compare). The 1930 engine block had minor improvements to internal webbing in the block casting. Early 1930 cars and engines were essentially redesignated left over 1929 cars due to the Depression era and reduced production. The 1930 model had an improved transmission.

I have just joined the online version of the AACA forum and have seen your interest in 1928 parts. I am a former owner of a 1928 Pontiac 2 dr sedan Model 8240. I restored my Pontiac back in the 1980's and sold the car to a guy in Indiana who has since sold it to someone in Michigan. I still have a pile of used parts for the car stored under my workbench including transmissions, cylinder heads, shocks, wood spoke wheels, flywheel/clutch assemblies, 2 engine blocks. Refer to my current Facebook marketplace ads > Ditchburn Antique & Classic Auto Parts | Facebook DitchburnAuto@eastlink.ca