Dan Cluley

I talked to these guys later in the week. They had come from Denver, and it did belong to an actual band about 15 years ago. If I remember correctly it has the original Rambler 6 with a 3 carb setup added. A Ford 5 speed and rear end with disc brakes all around. Some little cars to finish up the day.

Wednesday 8/23 The group had a scavenger hunt in the morning & lunch in Coldwater before heading north. I came down from Lansing & met up with the group as they were leaving town, and drove back north with them. While the majority of the driving is on the pre-interstate route, we do use I-69 to bypass Lansing on the way to the evening stop in Dewitt MI. Along this stretch a break is taken at the Potterville rest area where we meet up with the State Troopers who will escort the tour the rest of the way around Lansing. Once in Dewitt, we fill up the downtown for the evening. You have to have some nice Oldsmobiles around Lansing. Nothing like a road trip in a station wagon

Yes, I think there are some coming in the next day's report

As this show was winding down, some of us crossed town again to make a stop at Short's Root Beer Stand. After a fun first day, I headed home. More to come...

After lunch, we drove back to Coldwater and spent some time at the local kart track/mini golf place and then headed across town to a show in the evening.

The local FD has restored this Bronco brush truck.

A couple of weeks ago I took part in the 17th annual Old 27 Tour. This event happens during the 3rd week of August and is driving the old roads and putting on a bunch of small town car shows up the middle of Michigan's lower peninsula. https://old27tour.com/ Monday 8/21 Some of the group met up at the weekly show in Coldwater MI. Tuesday 8/22 The group drove South on Old 27 to Waterloo IN and had lunch in the park across from the historic train station. I left Lansing early to spend the morning in Waterloo watching trains and met up with the group there.

Is the exhaust hitting the nut on the end of the lower shock bolt? Could you run it the other way around, so the thinner bolt head is next to the exhaust?

Near Cheboygan MI after 5 days on the Old US-27 tour

Very nice. 😊 The first gen Aurora is maybe a better looking car, but I'll take a 3800 over a Northstar any day.

We came across this while on vacation in the summer of 1977. I believe it was somewhere in New Jersey near Philadelphia. Looks like a '48 Olds.

You just never know. I flew from Michigan to Alabama to buy my '04 LeSabre and drive it 1000 miles home. A reasonably modern car, only 15 years old, and inspected. Still had a couple of minor issues on the trip. Drove my '65 Chrysler 50-60 miles the first day I had it because I wasn't knowledgeable enough to worry about it. Other than a quick temporary fix to get the rear lights working had no problems. I suspect that one would have been just fine for a couple hundred mile trip. On the other hand the '74 Dart needed a battery & a gas can to get it moved across the street, 4 tires before I'd leave the block, a month's work before I would trust it more than 20 minutes from home and at least a year before I had all the quirks figured out.

It is on the calendar, so hopefully.

I know it's not the right decade, but the "retro" license plate is a nice choice.

The gears in there also drive the 2 odometers, so if one or both of them is not working smoothly the speedometer will be jumpy.

Im curious what car this is. I've never seen diagonal pleats like that. It is a very striking design.

Check Monroe MA 822. They should be an exact fit and cost a fraction of what the GM ones do

Thanks for the info. The short answer is I found a used one for a reasonable price that is supposed to have been tested. I guess I'll find out next week when it arrives. Will probably try to disassemble the old one to see what I find.Having spent too much time researching this, I'm going to include this info that may help someone else who finds this post.It looks like the same basic compressor unit was used on the C, H & G body cars from 1985-2011. Sometime around 95-96? they changed the air out fitting on the dryer. There are a number of different mounting brackets depending on year and car. There are either 3 or 4 different electrical connector types, but I suspect that the compressor & valve can be interchanged all through that 25 years.Dorman numbers - some or all of these are available new in 2023.949-033 - 1985-1995949-035 - 1996-1999949-015 - 1997-2005 - There is overlap '97-99 I think the H bodies used the older style, while the G bodies used the new?949-009 - 2006-2011GM numbers - I think these have all been discontinued, so used or find in the back of someone's warehouse.22153135 - 1985-199522153137 - 1985-199512494811 - 1997-200522153457 - 1997-200522189726 - 1997-200515811960 - 2006-201125806015 - 2006-2011Just the head & valve assembly was also available separately from GM12494810124948122215361122177672I did not find enough information to know if there are differences, or if these are just part number changes over the years.

The sensor is a separate component attached to the frame and left rear control arm. It sends a signal through one of the computers to a pair of relays that control the compressor and the release valve. I'm pretty sure that part is working properly.

I know this is more late-model than most here, but I'm hoping someone has some experience with this. My LeSabre has the automatic leveling system, but it isn't holding air. Over the winter I had noticed the compressor running every few minutes, so attacked the project last month. Replaced both shocks (Monroe MA822) and the plastic air lines (2 of the Monroe AK29 kits had enough pieces) but still had the problem. If I disconnect the lines from the compressor & use a hobby compressor through a schrader valve, the lines & shocks will hold air pressure for a couple of days, so I'm reasonably confident that those are ok, and that the air leak is in the compressor assembly itself. Honestly, if it would hold air longer than a few days, I'd call it good, but having to put air in regularly is going to get old fast. I pulled the compressor assembly and bench testing it, I think I know what is going on, but not 100% sure & not sure if it is something that can be fixed. Putting power to the one pair of wires causes the compressor to run, and air comes out. Putting power to the other pair causes the valve area to make a clicking noise. If I understand correctly, when the shocks need air, the compressor runs & pushes air through the valve, through connection 4 into the reservoir & then through connection 5 into the lines. When the shocks need less air, the valve opens and lets air from the reservoir out through connection 3 and out through connection 1 (that hose connects to a fitting in the frame rail) By process of elimination, I am assuming that connection 2 is the air intake for the compressor although I cant see how it gets from there to the head. If any of that is incorrect, please let me know. I tried running the compressor with the Y hose disconnected, and there is a little air flow at connector 5 and more air flow at connection 3. I assume this means the valve is not sealing properly in some fashion. Does that seem right? I see lots of bolt heads, but before I start taking things apart, is this likely to be repairable, or do I just bite the bullet and replace the whole thing.

I'm looking at a video described as circa 1927. Snowstorm in Berea, Kentucky, circa 1927 - YouTube However I'm reasonably confident that this sedan below is a '28 or '29 Model A Ford. Any thoughts on the coupe or the truck?

Can we get a measurement of the width? That could narrow down what size car

Flushed the cooling system, which seems to have cleared out whatever was blocking the heater core. Put a quart of ATF in the engine in preparation for an oil change in a few days. Went for a ride.

Something to keep in mind when you are checking the accuracy. The number of teeth on the transmission gear can vary and it needs to be the correct one to match up with the rear end gears and the size of your tires. As you saw, the odometer is a direct gear drive from the cable, so if your odometer measures correctly then you have the right transmission gear. If the milage on the odometer is over or under the actual distance traveled then the transmission gear needs to be changed. Once the odometer is correct, then you can see if the speedometer itself is calibrated right. I was just working on the one from my '65 Chrysler. You can see that the details are different, but it is the same basic sort of mechanism.

I can see a definite advantage to air powered streetcars. You could just have one big compressor and tank setup and consolidate the infrastructure at the carbarn rather than stringing overhead wires or underground cables all over town.