PABrady

I was there for the 80's. I'm well aware of the Buick V6 history going back to the Odd fire ones from the sixties sold to Jeep and luckily back again. Based on the reasons you mentioned, I think the 3800 LN3 to Series 3 engines were a different animal from the 3.8. There were FWD forms before the 3800. Even Turbo Charged ones. Sorry I can't be all negative about DD. I guess it was just about the exposure and entertainment value that I thought was ok. Your correct, the vids are fluffy and not intended for car guys. I'm not a Boomer but been driving Buicks since 83. I keep cars forever so there haven't been that many. I guess I know enough to be dangerous:-) My past Buicks 70 GS 350 70 Skylark 70 GS Stage 1 76 Regal 350 Sport Coupe 84 Regal non turbo V6 90 Reatta convertible 99 Regal GS Supercharged Current cars 90 Reatta Convertible 12 Lacrosse Premium 1

Doug Demuro is one the most popular automotive Youtubers with 4.4 million subscribers. He has reviewed some of most expensive cars in the world and the fact that he even reviewed a Reatta is a pretty good compliment. It's good to have top Youtubers reviewing Reatta's. I wish there were more. The part I liked the least was when he dumped on the 3800. Not taking in account it may be garden variety in the years since but in 1988 it was a brand-new design not boring at all. Furthermore, it's one of the most reliable engines of the 20th century. Yeah, he could have picked a better example and all his facts where not perfect. He could have also focused more on the mechanicals like the Braking system etc. but all his videos are like that. He also may have held the car to a too modern standard. With all that being said, I mostly liked the review, and he did have some good things to say. I consider the review one of better ones out there as there are not many. At least it was somewhat entertaining.

Sorry to be late to the party.... After much trial and error this fit perfectly on the bottom of the spring for the OEM Spectrum Stuts. Amazon says it doesn't fit but it does. For the top I reused to old ones. Just rotated them a bit.

My Reatta is running better as well the little I have been able to drive it. Found this informative Know How video I recommend watching if you haven't already. However, I don't know what to make of the TPS voltage being a wider range. Assuming all LN3 years are the same. Perhaps I don't understand what they mean by Closed Throttle or perhaps they are talking about TBI Mode maybe the test equipment involved?

Ok I adjusted it to .400 volts and at full throttle its at 4.20 volts (4.22 with the floor mat removed). Is that too much? Perhaps I should of set it to .380. I will look into the O2 sensor as it still has that fuel rich smell when you first start it. Too much snow/salt for a test drive. There are no codes. Thanks

My Reatta has rich burn smell in closed loop, gets bad gas mileage and sort of backfire or pops sometimes under hard acceleration when you let off the gas. Thanks to this tread I decided to check my TPS voltage and its at .134 Volts at idle. I assume it can be adjusted. Not sure how to do that. I messed with it once so it's probably not installed correctly. Just loosen the screws and move it a little? Thanks!

Did you ever sell the car? I need it like hole in the head but I might be interested. I have a High Mileage 1990 Convertible and I'm Local. Dedham

I was able to find the spring from a few sources. The listings say its for older gm cars and trucks but I'm confident it will work. I'll put it all back together. If it doesn't work that's ok. Thanks

Barney, I purchased one of the Cap kits from you last summer, thanks. At the time didn't think to test my lock assembly and I just noticed it doesn't trigger the latch solenoid. Apparently, I always use the Key fob or Glove box to open the trunk. Anyway started troubleshooting and after reading this thread I noticed I'm missing the return spring that goes around the cylinder. Pretty sure I never had it. Other troubleshooting steps I took.... There is power to the Connector. It has 3 wires going in and only 2 out. Is that right? I believe I read in the shop manual that this is some sort of running change. So I assume it good. I also cleaned up the lock but so far no go in my test. I tried grounding the lock cylinder to see if that would help but still no joy. Do you (or anybody else) have a Spring possibly another lock cylinder to sell? Any advice would also be appreciated. Thanks!

This is how the harness is connected now. After rerouting the grounds, there were less problems but the headlight not turning off and retracting was still there. However I just received a third set of relays (free) from Octane Lighting. Installed those and magic everything works properly. So apparently the main problem was the relays. I confirmed this by swapping them out again and the problem to came back. Good to go now. Thanks everyone for your help. I paid top dollar for this harness. Looks like there are other far cheaper choices on Ebay/Amazon as low as 16.00. I recommend trying one of those. Its not like you get anything for the extra $ spent. Funny both Amazon and Ebay say this product is not compatible with Reatta's.

I am currently using the G100 or G102 (cant remember) terminal for the ground on the right side. I will run both the grounds to the Isolated Ground Junction block and let you know how I make out. Thanks everyone for the tips!

Yes my car has the extra relays but they don't address the headlight door and other ground issues when you install LED headlights. At least not in my experience. My goal is to be able to upgrade to LED headlights without any modification to existing oem harness.

Wait sorry I do have that Black electronics ground Box. I will give that a try Thanks

My 90 doesn't have the Black Ground Box. It does have 2 other ground points near the battery I used one of those. I did however clean every ground point I could find on the car to include the one on the engine. Did that a while back. SoCal car so there is virtually no corrosion. I will redo the ground on the drivers side. It would be nice to know if anyone with a late 90/91 car got this harness to work.

Thanks I cheeped out and ended up using the 3/8 24 brake hoses I already purchased. The main problem with the them is that they use a Inverted flare instead of a Bubble and I could not find an adapter. My solution was to purchase a 8 inch long brake line that had a 10mm Bubble on one end and a 3/8 24 Inverted in the other. Then cut the line to 2 inches and re-flare the Inverted end. Then I added a double female coupler to the Bubble end. Not the greatest but it works...

Barney, everything was working fine before installing harness. My motivation for installing the harness was to eventually add LED lights without cutting wires. I am aware the passenger side feeds off the drivers, the wear and tear drivers H4 connector and how important the routing of the wires is. I probable know this because of all your post I read. Thanks!. Been working on Reatta's since 2009. Many other Buicks since 1983. I guess I don't post much because I'm terrible at putting my thoughts into words. I currently have the harness removed and everything is working properly again. The troubleshooting steps I have taken: Plugged into the driver side connector and replaced the relays. Still not working properly with the harness from Amazon. Other then deciding what connector you plug into, the install seems pretty idiot proof. I used the existing power source and ground terminals on the Passenger side near the battery. For the drivers ground I used the fender bolt to the body near the left headlight. I have a late 90 convertible that has the extra relays in the center console. I guess my question is the same as Retired w/Reatta. Is this hardness compatible with a late 90/91 Reatta? After reviewing this tread again I'm thinking no. Thanks

I'm late to the party on this tread but the 96 STS brake conversion seems like it is the way to go. I even reused the existing E-Brake Cable. Not perfect but Works fine. You still have to pump the parking brake pedal but I prefer that. Only problem I had was I forgot that two right calipers are required and purchased a set of powder coated Power Stop calipers from Rock Auto. Keep in mind, they only come in pairs so I had to purchase another set. Expensive lession to learn. Now the hard part is trying to get them to give me a store credit on two left calipers. Looking forward to no brake rattle. Thanks

I installed the harness from Dashmaster's link and the Lights are not working correctly. I'm hearing a click from popup headlight motors. When I turn on the lights they popup and come on but the bright's don't work and they wont go off. I kind of knew it wouldn't work. I plugged into the passenger side H4 connecter. It was easier/neater being close to the power source. I'm thinking I'll have better luck with the driver side. I'm just running Silverstar's at the moment.

I ordered the EBay hoses and the ones I got don't fit either. I must have got the 3/8 24 hoses also. The Ebay ad must inaccurate in its description. Any new leads on longer hose that fits? Keep in mind with the Camaro brake upgrade, the Reatta caliper location is on the front of rotor different from the rear mount Camaro. So if you want the Bleeder Screw on top, you have to mount the left Camaro caliper on the right and vice versa. Unfortunately when you do this, there is no way to use the Reatta brake hose even if you bend the bracket. Anyway never seen that mentioned in this forum. Forgive me if this is common knowledge. Reatta 2000 Camaro

Mine are missing all together. Thanks for the illustrations on how the fabricate them.