Jim Nelson

35 Buick, Here. is a product that comes from Min Wax. I bought it because I thought I would need it on the repairs to my trunk where the hold open hinge works. So far I've not needed it but it soaks into the wood and chemically hardens it. Nor very expensive even thru Amazon. I'd first check with your local Min-Wax supplier. Maybe Lowes, Home Depot. even Ace Hardware. Pix to follow :

Excellent touring car. I've taken it on a 1800 + mile tour just before the virus crap. Many details are available.

38-46s coupe for sale. oldbuickjim@gmail.com

For those who in Europe who want to go a bit faster to keep from becoming a speed bump, here is a option. Buy a rear end from a car, here in the states with the same year. Remove only the torque tube from the transmission flange all the way back including the third member. Then send it to Glen and have him modify the rear to insert the Over Drive in the torque tube. Now you have a over drive in three pieces. Front torque tube, then the drive shaft , and finally, the over drive with attached third member. The modified front torque tube and drive shaft will be no longer than 3'. The O.D. assembly with the modified third member would be about the same. So the shipping box would be around the size of a normal skid. This way you have a one way shipping trip to get an over drive in your car.. If that sounds OK, I would highly recommend rebuild the ring and pinion area with new bearings. The rear pinion bearing is a 'roller' style bearing and the front bearing is a "double row ball bearing". Then at a minimum, on your original rear end, after you are ready to assemble it, REPLACE the outboard roller bearings that are located just before the brake backing plates. I can just about guarantee that those bearings have not been greased since it was new. That bearing has two seals that create a cavity thar you put new grease in (about half full) and you will never, in your life time , need to re-grease the roller bearings. I have found some that were OK but several that were about trash. Please read your service manual on setting the two semi-roller bearings that support the axels into the ring gear . A rear end guy will adjust them. You will already have the 'lash' set when Glen replaces the new pinion gears. Remember, you are ending up with a rebuilt rear that will be quiet and last for another 75 + years. I'm prejudice, the over drive gives me the great highway speeds and regular gearing like it was designed for in slower modes for city driving.

When I needed to do window 'fixin' stuff, I let my antique / classic car shop do it. That is one place that I really don't want to screw up on. I need to re-glue the basic mounting on my pass. car front window. its a bit loose but I will do that amount. I was having a problem finding my rear window rubber glass mount. We tried several moulding that got quite close. Steele rubber goods did not have anything for the 1935 rear window. Also the rear side windows. I did finally find rubber mounting that was close enough to do the job. There is not enough old cars in that era to justify a new shape.

Having two and keeping them separated to show left and right is best. Here is mine. My lights are wired this way because the wires come out one end. It has 4 different configurations. All; bright red for brakes, All, medium red for running lights, one end - approx 2" - yellow to be used for turn signal. So I put one on each end of the rear window. put the yellow so it would be on the far end of each showing that I was turning in that direction, etc. Just my way. We are full of tourists who are lost most of the time - so having bright brake lights is mandatory and having yellow at eye level should help. JMHO......

EmTee has an excellent option. Pick your poison and protect your rear when stopping. The 35 series cars had adequate stop lights - - FOR 1935 - NOT TODAYS TRAFFIC. if your showing your car and they want to take away points, your car is a driving car, not a trailer queen. So what. I want a safe driving car on todays roads.

Buick35, You should have a running light inside the headlight housing, That is where I will put mine. You can use 6 volt bulbs there. (LED also ). I bought several sockets from Bob's Auromotive and chose one that required a small increase in the opening. The sockets I chose have two extended tabs to hold it in place.'. You could pit two yellow LED lights in the corners od the rear window. Then would be relativly invisable. I'm putting two Motorcycle tail lights in my rear window (LED ) that have a yellow section that would be small but bright. Dual function. 1/2" height and 7" long. You woulf have to provide 12 volts for that change. Again, easy 12 volt supply for them. Ad a second mechanical switch just like the original brake lights. Use a 'rechargeable battery' to provide 12 v to run those lights only. If your really good, I'm going to replace the rear brake light lens with Yellow LED lights that will become my turn signals. Not easily seen but only comes on then you need turn signals. The motorcycle strip lights run on 12 volts. Because they are LED, they use very little power. So, being able to get bright red brake lights and turn signals works out. . BTW, the motorcycle LED lights are about $16.00 each.]

Buick35, You should have a running light inside the headlight housing, That is where I will put mine. You can use 6 volt bulbs there. (LED also ). I bought several sockets from Bob's Auromotive and chose one that required a small increase in the opening. The sockets I chose have two extended tabs to hold it in place.'. You could pit two yellow LED lights in the corners od the rear window. Then would be relativly invisable. I'm putting two Motorcycle tail lights in my rear window (LED ) that have a yellow section that would be small but bright. Dual function. 1/2" height and 7" long. You woulf have to provide 12 volts for that change. Again, easy 12 volt supply for them. Ad a second mechanical switch just like the original brake lights. Use a 'rechargeable battery' to provide 12 v to run those lights only. If your really good, I'm going to replace the rear brake light lens with Yellow LED lights that will become my turn signals. Not easily seen but only comes on then you need turn signals. The motorcycle strip lights run on 12 volts. Because they are LED, they use very little power. So, being able to get bright red brake lights and turn signals works out. . BTW, the motorcycle LED lights are about $16.00 each.]

Sorry for the lack of knowledge on the big engine tranny. We poor folks ( 🙂 ) are not up to speed on those. I'm limited to the smaller tranny details. You are just having to much fun ! Are your synchronizers in good shape ? If you can find a new set, get them. The 2nd gear takes the most abuse then the 3rd. I got a new set for mine when I rebuilt it and I treat them carefully. Saved the best of the used syncho for future needs. I found a guy in the New York area who was a good source and very knowledgable. (p.s., I'm an advocate of over drive. I can let my engine loaf along in cruise mode. ). You might consider it so you can sorta keep up in modern traffic. I cruise 2350 rpm at 65 mph. These ole straight 8 engines do not like upper rpm's. Look at your service manual charts on - rpm vs torque and h.p.. Our 248 engines begin to huff and puff when over 3000 rpm's, so my recommended rpm's is keep it no more than 2800 rpm with rpm's over 3000 for passing (? ). Remember, 50 / 55 mph was a good speed 'back then'.... JMHO.

I vote for Uvira. I think I did mine in Nickel for the same reasons. my guy is over her in the southern Mich. area so I sent it closer to me (Fla.).

I had my 1935 Buick reflectors re-done. It cost me last year about $70.00 each. I haven't put them together yet but they still look like new. If you want the guy I'll dig it up. He is in ? southern Michigan. Mine have parking lights mounted on the inside of the reflector in the top. I have converted to 12 volts so I replaced the original bulbs and sockets. I will mount halogen 'P4' bulbs with their sockets. I needed to open the socket mounting holes ( not much ) to accept the new and much brighter lights. I bought the conversion system from Snyders model 'A' catalog. BTW, that same 'P-4' bulb socket can also mount a bright LED . bulb using the same socket. LED bulb uses about 750 ma vs the halogen bulbs that use aprox 3.5 amps. Both are dual type bulbs. (hi / low Lumination ). I don't 'plan to drive at dusk/night BUT things happen so I will be prepared. I got caught about 100 miles from home and the sun beat me home. dang it.

If you look closely at the front of the tranny, lubrication to the 'upper' input bearing is supplied thru the 'shielded ' bearing (standard in pre-war tranny's) and the excess flows by gravity out the bearing (forward) and goes down to the opening in the case to let the oil back into the case.. that area is 'wet'. The counter shaft is 'snug' into the casting. I believe oil would have a difficult time coming out in that area. So, replacing the input shaft bearing with a new bearing with a rubber sealed snap ring bearing as I've mentioned works. I've just finished my third and last tranny - so, JMHO...

my last one got held up but here is my list. If you get the 41-48 babbit rods, your 'good' engine machinist can 'notch' the rod to accept the later inserts. Terrill Machine in Texas has inserts for you. Its one of their specialists. 'Buick looks fine for 39' has very good list of things .

you can use all intake and exhaust manifolds up thru the '38'. 39 and later have the 'step' on the intake manifold to keep the carb. level. I would change the water pump to a new rebuilt unit. Take the old one, if it is still good (no leaks ) and put it on your shelf as a spare. I have used the rebuilder in Oregon (name escapes me at the moment) and he has a good reputation. I used the 'copper' manifold gaskets. With the expansion of the block and head, the copper gaskets are better in allowing movement and still sealing the parts. Yes, there are lots of opinion's but listen to those who have done it several times as they have found the hard - ooops that required a second time around. BTW, I replaced the 40 series radiator with a 60 series radiator. 2" thick vs 3" thick. That gives you 50 % more cooling capacity. As mentioned, the Buick cast iron engines operating in todays environment will give you temp. issues. Our club members add a pusher fan in front of the radiator. Every little bit helps. Those of us who reside in the southern climates will tell you what works. Summer time black top roads and LONG RED LIGHTS make for engine temps near the max. many times. Plus stop and go in todays traffic all create temp problems. We all tolerate these issues and drive accordingly. I love my '38' coupe .......

Been there - done that - - Buy EGG mfg. pistons, if the rods are good, you can modify them for insert bearings. Now is the time to replace the starter ring gear. That issue is a bear if you have to do it later. My ring gear cost about $325.00 but mine needed replacing. You service manual will tell you how to do it. Deglaze the clutch surface, new clutch time make sure the block and head are clean of gunk/rust for best cooling . BTW, I managed to get a 263 to do my major rebuilding. I then restored my 1938 - 248 engine to like new so I could use it on a second Buick. Are the motor mounts in good shape ? On the transmission, replace the 'input' bearing with a new '6307-2RS, NR bearing. That is a new style bearing that looks like the original but it has rubber seals in place of 'shielded construction. Remove the rubber seal from the side facing the tranny gear set. this means the side facing the clutch is sealed so no gear oil can get into the clutch area. the snap ring is still on the clutch side of the bearing. (the bearing should be a 6307 series but I may have errored and it should be a 6207 - -. e-mail me later and I'll know for sure. (I have pix of it ). Having it totally rebuilt makes it a very nice engine. How is your third member ? Separate issue but its time if you are that far along. I have to go for a while but I will get the correct bearing.

By the way, DO NOT BUY A CHINESE BEARING for bearings. I Owned a bearing house (for 18 years so I have a bit of experience) and I am familiar with manufacturers. FAG, SKF and even Rusian bearings are good quality. Turkish is also good. Chinese quality is NOT there. So don't use them...... Interesting, Fag bought a Korean bearing manufacturer known as KBC. (as good a quality as the German 'FAG' but less costly to produce ).. They are excellent bearings as I sold them as a primary source for electric motor rebuilders - -quality was there but the price was much better.

Well the tranny front input bearing is a 6207-2RS NR. Here is a pix of it on the front of my tranny. Again, rubber seal (with the snap ring) facing the clutch and the open (no seal) side toward the gears in the tranny. The bearing gets enough lub from the splashing of lub. Its easy to remove the rubber seal from the side you need to remove it. Be nice to the snap ring that holds the 'slinger' in place. Its not needed now the rubber seal is there but it spaces the snap ring in place.

Been there - done that - - Buy EGG mfg. pistons, if the rods are good, you can modify them for insert bearings. Now is the time to replace the starter ring gear. That issue is a bear if you have to do it later. My ring gear cost about $325.00 but mine needed replacing. You service manual will tell you how to do it. Deglaze the clutch surface, new clutch time make sure the block and head are clean of gunk/rust for best cooling . BTW, I managed to get a 263 to do my major rebuilding. I then restored my 1938 - 248 engine to like new so I could use it on a second Buick. Are the motor mounts in good shape ? On the transmission, replace the 'input' bearing with a new '6307-2RS, NR bearing. That is a new style bearing that looks like the original but it has rubber seals in place of 'shielded construction. Remove the rubber seal from the side facing the tranny gear set. this means the side facing the clutch is sealed so no gear oil can get into the clutch area. the snap ring is still on the clutch side of the bearing. (the bearing should be a 6307 series but I may have errored and it should be a 6207 - -. e-mail me later and I'll know for sure. (I have pix of it ). Having it totally rebuilt makes it a very nice engine. How is your third member ? Separate issue but its time if you are that far along. I have to go for a while but I will get the correct bearing.

Fred, I might be interested in your gravel guards for the 34 / 35, 40 / 50 series bodies. I have a 35-58 Vicky - 5 wheel and yours might work. I don't have one so - -

Since the switch is mechanical and it operates when the cable is moving when the brakes are moving, my guess it only needs a spring to guarantee its return ( to the off position ) when the brake rod has returned. Does your SM show any pix of it ?

Did you see it on Craig's List or on our 36-38 clubs write up. ? That will be more detailed and pix to show what makes mine more unique as a driving car. Our '36-38' club is a driving club, not a trailer queen car. My longest tour was 1800 + miles, Tampa Fl. to Nashville Tn. and back. Interstate and back roads made it a fun trip.

Asking 30 K or best offer.

Mechanically front to back rebuilt, 263 engine, Lloyd's Borg Warner over drive, a/c, dependable touring car. Diamondback radials. Details and pix available.

Mechanically front to back rebuilt, 263 engine, Lloyd's Borg Warner over drive, a/c, dependable touring car. Diamondback radials. Details and pix available.