Jim Nelson

They are not magic. They are simple steel fabrications. Find someone who will let you copy the originals. Duplicate them accurately and you are home free. Our very nice "but getting older" Buicks will continue having some parts 'not available' making duplicating them the only source of some parts. I found that some Ford wire wheels are almost identical to some I wanted. My 1935-50 series Buick wire wheels - were options. VERY HARD OR IMPOSSIBLE TO FIND. But they were identical to Ford with one change. Buicks have 16" wheels but Fords have 17" wheels. That small difference in rim diameters is very hard to see. Side by side makes them look identical. Thus, I have 1935-50 series optional wire wheels on my 50 series Buick. Yup, I guess that's cheating but you can not see it . My Buicks are all road drivable - not hanger queens.

Make sure the ground wires are good and tight. Then the same for the feed wires. You might see what voltage is at the light when its 'on'. Same at the battery when it's under load. I would make sure the engine is running around 2000 rpm to give you the generator full output. After that, Make sure the lenses are 'clean' for maximum output.

The 00 grease will do well. The lube used in our steering box is very good.

Check with Dave Tacheny (1-763-427-3460 ) who is just north on Minneapolis . Excellent parts supplier and may know who is in the area to solve the 'noise' issue. If its a rod noise - stop running the engine. Otherwise its possible the damage will be VERY EXPENSIVE to fix. I've had two engines (248 special engines) completely rebuilt and it ran in the $7,000 range. Both did not require line boring which increases costs. Dave may have a decent 248 engine without spending a ton of $$. Just a thought.

Give Dave Tachney a call. He might be knowledgeable on the '35' - 40 series steering stuff. It looks just like the '37 - 40' series steering stuff. I'm not sure but my 35-50 series looked the same as my '37-40 series. Buy one from Bob's and check it out. Just be sure that Bob's will take it back if the shafts are not the same. Is that pitman arm just worn and the seal keeps the grease in the brass joint. Push come to shove, Imused to sell brass bearings and there are many sizes to replace the worn brass bearing. The seal can be matched by measuring the shaft O.D. that goes through the old shaft. Any good industrial parts house that sells oil seals from Garlock, National and others to match. If I have a problem, either I will change parts and use the '38-40' series steering stuff or just get a brass bearing that comes close and have your machinist make it just like the original bearing. Buy a new oil seal that matches the same dimensions. Those things are usually rebuildable by design.

My conversations with him on this was a bit over a year ago.. Even replacing the steering box is not crazy. Steering column can fit most any box. I should talk to Dave Tacheny (in Minn.) as he is very good on parts and what works and what doesn't.

I don't remember but I need to pick his gray matter. Its one of those - like to do but later projects. You have those don't you ? I do.....

The Pitman arm attaches to the box. Then the steering connecting rod goes forward and attaches to the intermediate steering arm. Then steering rods go from the intermediate steering arm - out to the tie rods etc. . Whew, First tighten the steering rod ends a bit. Greg, All this came from my 35-50 series shop manual. I'm sure this is the same as the 35-40 series. If you want, I have a 35-40 series shop manual that would help. Way to much fun !

Looking at both systems, they look identical (1935 vs 1937 system) with the parts so that is why I will see if I can first take up some of the many rod ends and see how my friend did his. If I end up changing I will get my '38' parts from Dave Tachney in MN.

I have several service manuals that talk about adjusting it. I think you can adjust the worm gear but it will make it better. I'll see which has the best write up ' how to adjust. My steering is fairly good. I will take up the steering rod that goes from the box forward to the cross bar. Interestingly, the steering bars / system is the same as on my 1937. To much stuff to just make the wheels turn left ' right. My buddy who had a '37' replaced all that junk and replaced it with '38' simple design. (3 piece). I have been considering doing the same change over. I don't remember but I think you need a steering box that the arm swings left/right verses forward ' backward. When he was done, his steering was much better - reduction of so many parts that have wearing down (minimum 5 pieces ) to - I think 3 pieces. That removed at least 4 or 5 joints. (Wear points)... So, first check the first - front to back push/pull rod. Mine is a bit loose and I will start there. Your box may be reasonable - - -

Matt's solution is important. Keeping your battery on a trickle charger when not using it. If you don't drive a lot, Matt's solution is great. I drive 1000 to 1500 miles a year so being on the road brings different issues. Mechanics in the road are ignorant of our old car 6 v systems. So that is one of my bigger reasons to going 12 v system. Here is my latest Buick. 1935 - 58 Vicky. You can see how I tucked the alternator in place of the original 6 v generator.

Well, both groups will have their own thoughts. If you want that change, just stand back and watch the comments. If you are going to 'show' your car - it becomes 'modified. I personally prefer 12 v because - I like to drive my Buicks ( two now )and - failure of electrical systems while on the road can be problematic. Very few items of any value need to be changed. 12 volt batteries are readily available. Yes I got tired replacing 'hard to find 6 volt batteries that fit. Starter remains the 6 volt unit. The original points and condenser don't care. The ignition coil is available at any parts store. (Cheep). The generator needs changing to 12 volts. I put in a 70 amp alt to give me all I need. That is usually changed to an alternator and again readily available with a failure (? When have you had a alternator failure). Minor wiring to use 3 wire electrical. All the light bulbs are available as 12 volts. Didn't Buick change over to 'modern' head light bulbs ? 12 volt units are available. Thus, that is all you need to do it. Small pain going under the dash to get to those few that are there. I just plug in my GPS and my iPhone . I also added LED (all 12 v ) tail lights to run in parallel with the original brake / tail lights that even changing to 12 v are very week. In my world, safety items come first ! In my opinion, it is not very expensive to convert. 'Jumper cables' are no biggie if necessary. ( No body will have 6 volt batteries if you need a jump.).. My longest trip was 1800 + miles from Tampa Fl. to the Nashville Tn and back. BTW, have you added a fuel boost pump ? Very important item !

Mexico City - - Mexico ? or USA ?

These need to be a minimum of 'grade 5' for strength. ( 3 pointed star on the top. Grade 8 have a 6 pointed star on top ). I always use 'grade 8' bolts which are the strongest. (With split lock washers. ). BTW, if the bolt heads do not have any marks then they will be grade 2 which is a no-no. Not strong enough ! ! I use stainless grade 5 min. for the three bolts that hold the water pump. Same on the lock washers.

One of my saying's is - - If more is good, then too much is enough !

See ! One of our Buick nuts knew where to go. There should be several of us 'nut's' who can steer you to sources and people whom' have been there and done that' to make your travels down Buick lane easier.

Well put Mark. Many parts we're probably lub'd at the factory and never done again. In my 37 and 38 Buicks, I found they were never lub'd other than at the factory. The outboard rear axels - roller bearings were done once and never done again. Why ? Difficult to get to requiring disassembly of the third member (remove rear axels ) and removing the rear brakes and backing plates etc means they were ignored until the car was junked ' traded ' etc. quite time consuming just to get to those bearings. So, Morgan and Mark are giving you the BEST thoughts on getting ready just to start the first time. This time you give your Buick will be returned many times over. I personally can not give you that as my stuff is still readily available from Bob's Automobilia and 'Car's'. It may require checking sources and places like this from those who know. Its there, just keep looking. AACA web site for Buick pre war parts will get you going.

There is a list of things you need to do BEFORE you even try to start your fine Buick. I've had 3 Buicks (down to one). 37-46, 38-46s, 35-58 VICKY. So my knowledge on engines prior to 35-50 series is not the best. There are others on this thread who can tell you all the things you need to do. First, get a service manual for your car. My 35-58 Vicky has fairly good service manual on what maintenance needed for your engine. Lubrication for tranny, rear end, wheel bearings etc. I have collected for my education, service manuals for 35 -50, 37-40 series, 38-40 series, 47-50 series, and 53-50 series manuals. They are all slightly different because the writers emphasized things they thought were important. They all thought me something I found educational. Check your coolant for condition and level. You would be surprised how much crap is clogging your cooling system. These are non-pressurized systems, Pull your oil pan and clean the sludge that has been accumulation for way to long. Get two or three oil pan gaskets and at least two for your valve cover assembly. Same for water pump gaskets. If you can, get a complete set with the duplicates I mentioned. A brand new 'big' 6 volt battery. Get a trickle charger for 6 volt battery's. Careful with your 90+ year old wiring. There is more, but this is a start list that is needed BEFORE YOU START YOUR ENGINE. You have a very nice looking 50 series sedan. Enjoy it, keep it up and it will give you a fun and great education of those '1930' Buicks. They drive quite nicely on the road. So much to learn. I've got only 10 years education on my Buicks. Its the ole - so much to learn and so little time. ( I'm 79 + and I'm still learning ). PS, We use Shell Rotella T4. 15w40 engine DIESEL oil. Its available from Walmart. Buy it in gallon containers with a couple of quart size's for topping off. Their prices are great compared to your local auto parts store. It has enough 'ZDDP' additive ( very important additive) for our old engines with solid lifters. Don't use Regular modern oils as they have very little to non - ZDDP additive and that is a big no- no. This should get you going - - -

We use "Shell Rotella T4, 15w40 diesel oil. This oil has a great ZDDP additive that our cars need. Plus, getting from Walmart keeps the cost better than other suppliers. Mine uses 6-1/2 quarts plus 1 for the filter. So I buy it in gallon sizes for cost and keep 2 quarts in quart size containers, one in the trunk for 'top off' on the road and 'top off" when doing normal oil changes.

Yes, for sure. I usually try for 1000 to 1500 miles between oil changes. If you have not pulled your pan, that is the first very important thing you need to do. That will give you a fairly clean system to work with. Then while you have the pan off, get some 'green' sticks ( measure rod clearances) while the pan is off. Also, if you need to clean and maybe rebuild the oil pump. Also buy a new oil pan gasket AND A SPARE. Considering the shipping costs today, I have two spares. One for trips - JIC , and a spare valve cover gasket. Just the fun of having and driving our great Buicks.

I got mine from Dave Tacheny in Minn. (1-763-427-3460). Call him 4:30 to 7 PM central time. He only does phone - no e-mail . Mine came from a 47 / 48 248 - 40 series engine . It will require new steel lines. I put one on my 38-46s coupe and one on my 38-40 series engine I installed in my 35-58 Buick Vicky. There is three sizes of filters so (different heights ) so get the right one. Filters are easily available.

I would do it in Fla. I have bought three Buicks from out of state (Tenn., Indiana- 2 ). We need a bill of sale, purchase price (?) for taxing purposes and a DMV official to verify the 'frame number. An alternative is to have a 'noter-republic sign a affidavit that the numbers are accurate. Why ? because no DMV wants to crawl under the right front fender with a flashlight to see the frame number. On my 38-46s I had a 'custom' like original more modern 'VIN' Number riveted to the fire wall to make it easier. Same for my '37-46. My 35-58 has more room under the fender to see the frame number. So, check with your DMV to see exactly you need. I used a noter-republic and maybe you can do it that way. The bill of sale may need to be notarized . Maybe going to a small town DMV would be 'nicer and more helpful', I bailed from Ill back in the mid 70's and never looked back. When it comes to purchase price / taxing purposes, My seller left it blank because these cars very significantly in price and condition. If you bang it up - you can not repair it like new ones so minimize value. My DMV never questioned my purchase price. One man's junk is another man's treasure so think about it.

The 37 / 38 water pumps have a 1-1/2" inlet piping. Does your 35-40 series engine Water Pump (pump inlet - radiator outlet ) have the same size ? My 35-50 series has a 1-3/8" radiator outlet and the 37-40 and the 38 -40 (248) has the 1-1/2". I had to make up a transition hose to get from the 1-3/8" radiator outlet to the 1-1/2" water pump. Is your radiator (35-40) a two core or three core radiator. Mine is a three core and is 20" wide and max 21-1/2" high.

I've never let my '38' remain dormant over a week or two. BUT, with the virus crap, I let it remain for about 6 months with out running. I always use a trickle charger and after + 6 months, I cranked it up and went on a short trip. Tires ran like new - no bumps. Radial construction precludes flat spots. The only reason for jack stands would be to let you turn the wheels to minimize bearings being squeezed of grease and (only) having a spot on the bearing with minimized grease. Now that is stretching a point and I would never do it. I have a 4 x 8 trailer that is stored outside and I store the wheels on jack stands so I can - on occasion - come by and nudged (rotate) the wheel a bit and weed eat under the trailer. Ya, , I'm weird I guess. Trailer may be used once or twice a year - maybe.

BTW, I won't buy or use chinese tires. You get what you pay for. Tires are extremely important safety wise. Korea makes good tires, Europe makes excellent and safe tires - no cheapie's for low cost. BTW, I've been driving since 1959 so my history has been filled over most of the United States.