Turbo Kane

Also if you don’t have a scan tool you can check flash codes. To do this you cycle the key to the run position and off 3 times and on the 3rd time leave it in the run position. Now look at your check engine light. It will come on and off once and then flash in a 2 digit series of flashes. For example 1 flash pause 2 flashes will be code 12 which is battery disconnected in last 30-100 engine starts is The finial code is 55 for end of codes. The some of the best information you can find us from Gary Donovan his web page is http://www.thedodgegarage.com look under turbo database for information.

Do you have a 89 SMEC or 90-91 sbec? Have you verified that you have spark and fuel? It’s not uncommon to have a bad HEP in your distributor or if yours is an 89 a bad power board inside your SMEC it’s the smaller board with white rectangular connector. Also when you turn the key to the run position do you hear the fuel pump prime and the ASD relay click.

What a beauty! I would like to see you get anything above $8000 for it. Anything less than that and you’d probably really regret selling it.

I bet you have the most miles ever put on a TC. The best part about the 8v’s and A413’s they are so simple to work on. As long as you have a spare HEP and SMEC power board you should roll 300k easy! I used to keep a spare in my glove box when I daily drove a 8v turbo caravan.

I have a spare Pt cruiser 2.4 turbo for sale in WI. $750 for the complete engine or $950 with conversion mounts included. Bolt in an easy 300 hp for under $1000. You’ll need a neon srt-4 intake manifold to make it fit it a TC

Incase anyone’s interested Jackson sells laser cut powder coated conversion mounts for $250 shipped. For both early and late TC’s. They bolt in and great and the engine will be centered and level. He’s a chassis fabricator. The cam driven distributor conversion is also bolt on and go. Very simple to swap in a 2.4 now days.

Thanks Reaper1 that’s another good reason to swap to a large spline 523 when my clutch eventually goes. For now I baby it which is no fun. I have a different car fun fun though I guess. I swapped a 2.4 turbo into a 91 Spirit R/T. That’s kind of the way to go now. Every bolt on part available and more power out of the box. Mines a very modest build for daily driving. Just need to finish up the AC before next SDAC and I’ll take the whole family with in it.

I have 2 daughters the one you see in the picture Laila is 4 and our other Nola is only 1 month. I always make an effort to take someone for a ride or let them drive it.

Last summer I took my 4 year old daughter on lots of rides in the TC. She absolutely loves the feeling of the rich leather dash on her toes and the warm breeze blowing through her hair. It was 4th of July and with the pandemic shutting everything down I needed my daughter to enjoy seeing some fireworks for a sense of normalcy. We set out for a ride in the TC and I found a near by lake with plenty to see. After finding a nice place to park she wanted to sit on the tonneau cover and ohh and ahh at her favorite ones. I hope she’ll have some memories of us cruising in the convertible. I know I’ll always remember her singing def leopard- pour some suger on me, only her version is “pour some suger plum man” lol.

Do people think it’s ok to drive around a 30+ year old car on original rubber fuel hose? I don’t understand it.

I have plenty of ginger inside door handle Bezels. Give me a day or two to figure out where I put them and I’ll message you. Thanks

My Ryobi sawzall only made it through 1 Daytona Shelby before it died. The Milwaukee torch blade lives on.

Thanks Hemi!

What’s totally unnecessary is removing the entire intake manifold to remove plug wires, cap and rotor. It’s possible and very simple to do the work in 30 min or less. If you don’t believe me I’ll post a video and teach anyone who might care. You can teach an old dog new tricks you know.

And that’s why I don’t offer any advise

I’ve waited a long time to offer mechanical advise because I’m not a self proclaimed expert. I just know how to get the job done. Here’s what I found works. From underneath loosen the distributor adjustment hold down screw. Then from above get a very long #2 Phillips screw driver. Move the distributor advance or retard to access and loosen the 2 distributor cap screws. From underneath reach up and lift cap off with wires still attached and fish it over towards the battery. Change out what you want (plug wires, cap, rotor) then replace in the same fashion. Super easy to do. Don’t forget to set your ignition timing. Tighten screw from underneath. With the engine running at opp temp unplug the CTS. Then above you’ll need a timing light and I use a long rod with a hammer to lightly tap the distributor adv or retard till set at 12deg. Shut off engine and connect CTS. Also a good idea to reset your AIS at the same time. After making all adjustments disconnect and reconnect battery allows the computer to adjust. If your not sure how to reset you AIS I can walk you though it.

I have more levers available. I’m out of keychains. Message me if you’d like to purchase one or you can email me at resinkane@gmail.com

Same price as previously listed $30 shipped!

I have 10 available for purchase. They no longer have the gas pump marking on them they are plain black levers. Message me if you’d like to purchase one.

Rmtroutman- sorry I don’t have a good condition one. I’ve heard they are extremely hard to come by uncracked

Thank you all for your interest in the levers. I’m away on military orders but when I return I’ll start to produce them again. I’m also planning to experiment with a stronger impact resistant resin that should make them even better. I want them to be affordable for all so I plan to make price adjustment as well. My goal is to have them available Jan 2020. Thanks again for everyone’s support.

Glenn I have a grille for you. I’ll email you my contact info.

Jim, I stopped making the keychains and fuel door levers. I might pick it back up again soon. The console arm rest is shot, the hood pads not too bad but has road salt on it. I can’t image how I could ship it. There delicate and huge. Fold it in half it would be destroyed. It’s located in WI 53146 if you can arrange a way to get it. $60 is all I want for it.

I’ve been thinking about producing them again. There are currently none available. I’ll be sure to let you know if I do! Thanks for your interest!