Grant L. Meredith

When I get it out of trailer I’ll get better pics in the sun. So much rain lately. It’s been modified I believe. I see welds that were not blended to hide. Something I’ll have to address when when I make this correct for a Buick. Got my taillight to restore so need to make the mounting point for it I’ll have to look up the covers in my parts book you speak of. thank you

But does allow everything to be relaxed and gaps open to receive oil easier. Spin with starter if equipped

McNigel is right. Always remove plugs. No compression , no load on bearings.

It looks good though. Nicely cleaned up and restored. But mine is mounted off to the left. I’ll post pics tomorrow of what I have

Starting the replacement of the tail light that was on the car when I bought it. It has a Chev tail light. I’ve bought a taillight (Buick) but it doesn’t match the bracket on the car. I’m assuming it was modified for the Chev taillight. So if anyone can show by picture what I need to do to mount the proper light I’d appreciate it

Buicknutty. Here is a site that users update for availability of non-ethanol gas in Ontario and North American wide www.pure-gas.org

Who sells a bushing kit for 1928 274ci? There was a business in Michigan ( I believe it was there) and the website no longer works. I think the web address was aer.com I think. They did generators as well. Any leads would be great. thank you again

So thank you for the replies. Mine doesn’t have the thermostat in it. I’ll try a 160

You are right. I know that but forgot it. Todays lite fuels also affect jetting. And then toss in ethanol thinning of gasoline , ugh.

Sounds something I ran into with Kohler my dad has. New was different material. Original was brass. New one plastic. Using the John Deere book for setting carb float height, the carb would flood badly. Drove my dad batty. So I tackled it. Lowered the float a lot ( JD wanted 11/64 on brass) , I set the plastic one just around 3/8”. Tad move I think. It was a guess. Runs like a new tractor. Thing is, added material changes float weight. Different material for float changes buoyancy and means new float setting. Been my experience. Sometimes a little experimenting solves it. The float in your kit likely had set up instructions. Good starting point. Sometimes it’s dead on.

Oil seal I believe is rope and there is an oil slinger ahead of it. Mine drips a bit no matter what oil I run in the gear case. I’ve even tried that Model T gear lube they call 600W. I think it’s a bit heavy but gave it a try. I have 140 in it now.

For a 1928 274ci , what temperature do they require? 160? 180? I’m assuming thermostats for these are non existent? Can I adapt a modern one in?

That’s a beauty!

Thought I saw gear sets on eBay, but I’m not sure if they were a few years newer. Like 1927 or so. Likely different than yours

Right in my crankcase is 15W40 diesel oil. Mobil

I’ll try to call Friday or Saturday

Thank you Tom!! 🙂

I haven’t attempted to take apart yet. Previous owner told me changed oil and filter. Looking at what I can find pictures of none look like this on top. Bobs sells something that looks like it would take the fitting in centre on my picture. I was hoping someone has experience with something like this. Guess I’ll get brave and try to take apart. Thank you Dave

Can someone identify if this is a spin in filter in stock location or original style? Looking at the hook up for lines I’m thinking spin on. Any help be appreciated Thank you

On my electric pump I added a Holley regulator with a T brass fitting to add a gauge. I run about 1-1.5 psi.

What are options for a thermostat in my 1928 Master 274ci? What has been a good suitable replacement?