Lawrence Helfand

LOOKING FOR CARTER FRONT CARB FOR 320 MOTOR. A 528 S OR 533 S USED ON 41 AND 42 CENTURY AND ROADMASTER 60 AND 70 SERIES LAWRENCE 718 496 2386

This has all the signs of a Bogus Ebay auction lifted photos and no reserve..Beware! https://www.ebay.com/itm/1941-Buick-Roadmaster/143386989830?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131017132637%26meid%3Dc63663593eca4cb38b119f5af1dd205c%26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D8%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D143386989830%26itm%3D143386989830%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2045573&_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042

Looks like another Buick from the Harwood Showroom likely sold long ago. A high end car with lifted pictures ans no reserve most likely bogus..Beware ! https://www.ebay.com/itm/1941-Buick-Roadmaster/143386989830?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131017132637%26meid%3Dc63663593eca4cb38b119f5af1dd205c%26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D8%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D143386989830%26itm%3D143386989830%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2045573&_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042

Looking for a 1948 Chrysler Business coupe for sale. Preferably with Highlander interior. Not interested in rusty projects and will pay cash for right car. lhelfand@aol.com

Looking for a 1948 Chrysler New Yorker Business coupe for sale. Preferably with Highlander interior. Not interested in rusty projects and will pay cash for right car. lhelfand@aol.com

I looked at my unmounted set Matt and only a scrap was left under the edge. If I was going to give a try to what profiles you are showing it would be the middle one with a curving edged finger that would be slightly proud of the skirt edge and provide a flexing seal to the inconsistent gaping and provide a transition like a fender welt. The other two profiles dont project enough to provide a visual reveal to soften the edge of the skirt . I think I would rather see a rubber lip on the edge then just a rubber shimmed step. The first one looks fat and a lot less conforming to the scribe of the surface and the last one with the double lip seal sits way inboard of the skirts edge.

No its totally different on a 41. There is just a lever on the backside close to the surface and you reach behind the skirt and give it a yank and it retracts the flat bar stock that catchs the back top edge of the fender. It is a very simple mechanism. The bottom corners are held in place by a simple pair of brackets that catch the fender.

I also have many military friends most gone now and many that were in combat and some genuine hero's and they all were nice guys but some shared an intensity that was a bit intimidating at times and some just wanted to suppress and forget. Dan can be intimidating to his employees at times and his behavior felt very familiar to what I sometimes experienced from some of the guys I knew. You rely on your buddies and have high expectations from them and as a pilot especially then from your aircraft maintenance crew. Your life might depend on it . Some never adapted to civilian life and substituted the missing adrenaline rush with dangerous behavior and confrontational attitudes. They were all honorable but did not leave the military without having been affected by their experiences in both positive and negative ways. Hope that answers your question regarding my comment about Dan. He certainly has a engaging and charming side as well and one has to also assume conflict might be scripted into the production to keep us awake.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1949-Buick-Roadmaster/163828115958?hash=item2624eaa9f6:g:nAwAAOSwKjFdXWFd&vxp=mtr EBAY SCAMMER ALERT!!! SOLD HARWOOD MOTORS CAR WITH PHOTOS LIFTED FROM HARWOOD MOTORS ADVERT BOGUS!!!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1949-Buick-Roadmaster/163828115958?hash=item2624eaa9f6:g:nAwAAOSwKjFdXWFd&vxp=mtr EBAY SCAMMER ALERT!!! HARWOOD MOTORS CAR WITH PHOTOS LIFTED FROM HARWOOD MOTORS ADVERT BOGUS!!!

Dan had a 41 Buick Special sedanette in the shop for restoration and I made a point of watching the project progress. I would have to say it was laughable with Dan proclaiming how impossible it was to get parts requiring the purchase of another car and that the finished car was not close to original as was stated by Dan to the owner. Some trim missing and incorrect interior finish work most glaringly the dash. He welded up the cracked manifold which is never successful. I was quite disappointed at the result. And there it sits in the backround on every subsequent episode likely waiting for another manifold after the welding failed. Hate to think that the 41 Buick project is representative of the work being done on other cars. I believe Dan was in the Air Force and a helicopter pilot which might account for his harsh demeanor.

Sorry but vinyl chloride film which Minnesota Mining developed in the 1930's and was the only adhesive wrapping film available at the time capable of a semi transparent photo image will not leave a shadow image or etch a metal surface with a pattern. Latent transfer of engine turning onto the steel is not possible and really quite an uninformed conclusion. Its not the shroud of Turin imprinted through decomposing bodily chemicals or the result of solar printing. Doug Sybold can believe this theory but anyone with an eye loop can easily see the machined swirls. You can replicate the same effect using a white rubber ink pen eraser chucked into a drill press. It is a very light imprint and cannot be sanded or steel wooled even with 0000 without diminishing the pattern. Only hand rubbing with a polishing paste like Flitz or Semichrome is safe to a point as you can still ruin the finish. A light Phosphoric solution can help remove light oxidation but if too strong will etch the surface. It is perhaps the lightest damascus finish I have ever seen as compared to other automotive applications. It can be found on dozens of dash boards and exterior trim but unfortunately Buick chose a very delicate process but really not the mystery forwarded here. Its not rocket science

Hi Peter the reason my valve cover is black is because It was swapped out for the red original that was slightly warped and I never got around to painting it red. The one it came with was red. My side cover was black when I got it. The mileage on the car when I bought it was around 27,000 miles with a ton of dirt covering the lines. The service record showed no engine work ever performed outside of a tuneup and oil change in 1963. Five years later in was stored for 45 years and I bought it soon afterwards in untouched condition. My un restored 1941 Century four door parts car was exactly the same with red paint covering fuel and vacuum lines. I could see the factory using a remote fuel source but of course they must have plugged the drive arm hole to retain engine oil. Perhaps they installed the compression nuts and flared the line after testing explaining why they show no paint.

N Nobody called you a liar except you. What I said was figurative surprise not literal accusation. Looks to me from the photo of your dash panel that someone used a buffing wheel and some aggressive buffing compound to remove some rusting and blew right through the pattern which is easy to do if you put a machine buffer to it . It also looks like the lacquer coating got hot along the edge and browned from the buffer heat which you dont see on my photo where the edge is just flaked away with age in a fractal pattern. Thats just what I see from your pic. If you look at the photo I posted you can see the lacquer stripped back by age and the un coated raw steel top section still has a pattern. Also I dont know how you could get a decal to conform to the surface of such a complex shape. The only technology for that in 1941 would have been in ceramic manufacturing my collage major where you have a printed silica and color oxide decal applied with a special shaped applicator and then high fired to a vitreous glaze easily conforming to the curves and bends of a form. On My 1941 Buick four door parts car now in Poland I stripped the remaining lacquer from the dash panels with lacquer thinner so I could remove the oxidation from the bare areas with a mild solution of phosphoric acid and finishing with a hand rubbed Flitz polishing paste. Came out pretty good and I did not lose the pattern to much but some areas became fainter from working it where there was rust pitting. I finished it with rattle can clear lacquer for a decent result. I have had several dash panels to resurrect in the pursuit of finding a better set for my Century sedanette and found them all to suffer from the same condition and have not seen any display a smooth un turned surface where the coating has come off. I still find it hard to believe Doug thinks decals were applied having never seen any evidence of one myself. I would expect after forty years of industrial arts restoration work I could tell the difference. But all that said I am open to evidence of being wrong about the technique for this finishing process. Sorry you were offended Neil none was intended.

Sorry I cannot believe Doug said that. Just to remove the old turned finish takes some work. You must have gotten something mixed up talking with Doug. It is rather obvious it is a traditional damascene finish and not a decal . My own 41 has pretty good panels. they were quite tarnished but I carefully hand worked them and they look pretty good but a lot of my lacquer is flaked off and occasionally I freshen it up by softly hand rubbing it with Flitz paste so the bare metal wont tarnish. I have considered stripping the remaining lacquer and respraying the tinted clear. Neil it sounds like your panels were buffed smooth removing all the turning before you got it perhaps leaving nothing left for you to see. Read page 68 of Andersons book 1941 Buick restoration facts. In this photo you can clearly see the tinted lacquer has flaked off the top and the un coated damascene finish remains above. No decal just un plated steel.

Hi Neil, The original engine turned panels were not decals. Plain un plated steel panels were engine turned on jigged presses and then sprayed with either one of two tinted clear lacquers. Once the lacquer starts breaking down they inevitably begin to oxidize which is why nice un rusted originals are so scarce. When cleaning off the oxidation one has to be careful not to over buff the shallow circular abrasions or they disappear..Just imagine if Buick had used an alloy instead of steel like all the aircraft and race car dash panels we love.

Couple of notes..first off the early part of 41 production the engines were painted grey as were the 1940 models. 115 days into 41 they switched to red. The carbs are natural finish including the tops and the bases were painted gloss black. The tops were never painted front or rear. Linkage of course was natural finish. Again I refer to Anderson's book of 41 buick restoration

Here are some pics I took today showing the red paint thats still visible on my fuel and vacuum lines. There is very little left but a few spots of red. I had thought that the lines to the carb had been masked but as the photo shows on this vacuum line indeed they were not. My fuel line is covered with heat shielding but it has some paint on the bottom side as well. I am guessing the brass compression nuts were masked with a piece of split rubber hose rather then tape for speed and cost as they would be reusable and quickly applied or perhaps they used a rubber masks for fuel pump carbs and distributor that Incorporated that feature, just a guess of course. So you can see some paint on line to advance unit ( the other lines attached are pickup wires from a Petronix) and fuel lines to carbs as well as fuel pump. I am surprised to learn that Doug Sybolds award winning cars were not done this way and my guess is the judges didnt know any better but surely Doug did. Original is whats correct and doing your own thing because you think it looks better is of course taking liberties but to then claim its original is rewriting the history of Buick production line methodology. If you are going to all the trouble of getting your car correct then it should be original which is the point of the exercise of preserving history. My own car has many changes to improve its reliability and performance as I drive it regularly but if I ever decide to repaint my motor I will definitely paint the lines if for no other reason then to remember and preserve how Buick built their cars with fully assembled and tested engines before chassis installation. It would be pretty nice to find an original Buick mask to put on the shelf.

Here is a good place to sell but in order to do that you would have to have a price which is extremely difficult. Also exposure is limited as not every Buick collector is a member of AACA The easiest venue and also having the largest exposure and potential for some money is Ebay. Pretty much every Buick collector on the planet scours US Ebay and indeed there are Buick clubs around the globe. Some trinkets are worth a surprising amount. Start your auctions low with no reserve and let the market determine value. My condolences for your loss and best of luck finding a good home for all Dads Buick booty! I went through this process after my folks were gone and its not easy.

I suggest you get a copy of Restoration facts for 1941 Buick by William C Anderson and read page 37 . You will also find many of the answers regarding your questions about what is factory correct for your 41.

I do I am positive my under 30K mile motor was never repainted having not been owned by a collector but by an elderly woman and had been in neglected but regular use until 1968 and then stored away for 45 years before I got it. It was caked in decades of dirt from unpaved oiled roads of the Northwest somewhat preserving the original paint.According to Anderson the motors were assembled for testing and then painted with masking covers over exhaust manifold carbs fuel pump distributor etc. The lines on the right side of my motor are all painted all the way up and over the water pump after which they appear to go natural showing no previous paint. All the original un restored motors I have seen like the one in my Century parts car were exactly the same in this regard. Cant see Buick removing all the lines before painting so all fuel and vacuum lines close to the block got painted and those protruding from block to carbs and advance got masked and remained natural.

My unrestored 41 Century still has its red paint on the fuel and vacuum lines on the right side and its mostly gone on the left side.

Buick painted the motor compleatly assembled with masks on carbs etc and fuel lines were also painted red when everything was spray painted

The summit fan replaces the original on the fan pulley. I cannot imagine what might be wrong with your engine and have never heard of anyone experiencing these symptoms with their Buick eight. Guessing you already checked the rear carb intake counter weighted butterfly to make sure its moving freely and not opening prematurely which might lean out the mixture by sucking air through the rear carb before secondary linkage opens up the main jet. It does sound like your problem is with carburetion.

Actually in regard to the wiper motor the factory does not suggest any lubrication is ever required. Only occasionally putting a few drops of light oil on the cables where they contact the cable pulleys is suggested in the workshop manual. In general the action of the wipers is a good indicator of vacuum and the state of intake manifold gasket gasket integrity which is usually the culprit outside of a bad vacuum line or low compression.