Lawrence Helfand

Before 1933 very few cars, mostly European models had valence's behind the front wheels. 1933 also introduced the reshaping of the formally flat and vertical radiator shell. After 34 every American car was restyled. Quite sure this car was updated.

Widow Maker and easily the worst most dangerous jack ever made..What genius thought jacking it up on the wheel you need to change was a good idea? So you get a jack stand to solve that problem! Dumb ass design! put it under the rear seat and forget about it.. I carry a small scissors jack that is just perfect and very stable.

If it was an air cooled engine maybe but whats important is air flow through the radiator which might be better with easier exit from the engine compartment. I do think the pans were to keep engine clean and dry which they do well. I have had cars with air shrouds and radiator cowls to increase airflow velocity through the radiator but not really to air cool the motor.

My 41 Century has its original engine splash pans which are well scribe'd to the motor and keep any air movement or convection from occurring after its parked. Although it has working hood vents cool air from the ground level cannot circulate and engine bay temperature soars encouraging vapor lock. I will usually pop the hood after running to help some. I am thinking removing the splash pans will help a lot with post run temperature soar. It always stays at 180 unless sitting in traffic where it will rise some and again with the 4 blade fan at a pretty slow idle it does not seem like much air can circulate. I have a Summit fan not yet installed as overheating has not been an issue with modern re coring of radiator two years ago. It does seem most 41's I see are missing the splash pans so I wonder if this was a dealer suggestion or lazy mechanics? I have never had a car get so hot under the hood after a drive and the only one with splash pans. Anyone with practical experience with splash pan removal and results?

All the 41 Century model cars ran 15 inch rims which were eventually standard on all models

Picture time! At 68 years I never use the hot rod TV car show slang .... Badass! but if I did.........white walls always remind me of cookie filling or cake frosting

If you want this to be an all weather road car If you want it to be a drivers car and handling is important then get over the look of the tire because fast wearing flat vulnerable hot running poor turning and braking characteristic bias ply tube tires suck compared to radials in every way and I can think of no good reason to use them unless its going to be judged or sitting in a museum. Bias is crap! Tires will make or break your cars performance and your enjoyment driving it. My 41 Century has fat black wall Hankook tubeless radials set at 25 lbs and the advanced suspension design of the Buick takes to them very well. Understand that although it may not look it the Century is the performance car of the model line and among all cars in general at the time. The bankers hot rod! Many guys say they would mount whitewalls on my car but honestly the black wall Hankook's look charmingly sinister and whitewall radials are available if thats important to you. These are heavy cars and you will be surprised how fast the front tires wear out under an engine approaching a half ton. Regarding shocks..First bounce one side and then the other. If it bobs more the 3 strokes your in need but the comparison will be telling as one side might seem to work a little better. To check oil put a thin stick into the reservoir hole on top and basicly top off if low. The good thing about using motorcycle fork oil is that you can fine tune the damping response with viscosity options offered. I think factory oil is about the same as jack oil or atf a 10 wt. Too heavy and you will overcome the spring and it will chatter over bad roads or railroad tracks with a too slow a rebound return. I think anything over 30 wt would invite chatter on bad pavement due to not enough spring to open the shock quick enough after full compression so it basically locks out.

Great Looking car that surely was not a money maker for the restorer but should stay very market strong for you. For me some years are more appealing then others. The 33 and 34 design is gorgeous as it was for many makers who shaped the nose and valence'd the front fenders. I jump right to 38 as the most handsome of the the narrow set headlight designs. I think you got a bargain that you will love more and more as you scribe your driving to the car. Put it in 3rd and its almost like and automatic. Clutch should be without chatter and the hinky weld up on the drain hole makes me suspicious of really leaky seal issue that was a corner cutting move of the restorer to keep it from dripping too much and has perhaps contaminated the clutch. Also I see a tubular rear shock conversion?

There is a hot rod vernacular that refers to modified cars that retain a stock look. This is something of a retro rod backlash in response to contemporary parts and body mods ruining iconic design elements like steering wheels and columns gauges upholstery etc. Not an easy thing to add power steering and brakes and do a proper 12 volt conversion without it being apparent. Stock look is trending in the market and is also economical. So a stock car in todays car culture might be a bit broader then previously understood although even stock car racing was never stock..Original might offer more definition but no more then restored which has lost its meaning. Yes the paint is the wrong color but its just been done so its restored right? Well yes and no unless you say restored to factory original. Point is its better to understand then be understood..culture and language are fluid so get with it !

Thanks Gary, They did not have anything on the site so I did give them a call to find they only sell sets with a bound edging whereas the 41 Buicks had a rubberized edge that covered the attaching flange of the alloy threshold as well as the rubberized under dash upper section and pedal area guard. And due to its complexity there is nothing for a 41 model available from them.

Does anyone know a supplier of original Buick carpet reproduced with all the bonded rubber details? I have not found anything for my 41 Century and see most restored cars with incorrect carpet so thinking maybe it does not exist. Looks difficult to reproduce.

With all due respect I also cannot agree with the comment that all Buicks need overdrive. Might be nice on a 248 model but to be fair the Buick engineers knew a bit about the issues of sustained engine rpm from racing and aviation motors. In my lead footed youth ferrying cars for money I have driven all manner of vintage vehicles pre and post war straight through coast to coast across the old Rt 66. Sometimes pulling a trailer and in spite of a couple burning vast amounts of oil and blowing water pumps and maybe brakes issues I only ever spun a main bearing one time on a knocking for years worn out 39 Dodge 1 ton overloaded and overheated somehow thinking that the Wynns engine rebuild in a can I added would carry the day. Anybody here blown up a Buick eight from sustained speedy cruising? I drive my 41 Century at 65/70 in summer heat and it never feels over taxed or over revved and will go a lot faster without blowing up I'm sure. Really would love to hear about Buick engine failures on otherwise well maintained cars showing normal cooling and oil pressure readings from 65/75 cruising. And in the spirit of this theme.. BUY A CENTURY! The seller of a car that the owner has restored properly is losing money and so will you if you buy a money pit. Only reason to buy a project is it is so rare a model you have no choice if you really want one.

Totally agree with Matt in regards to the 37 Roadmaster. Of what links you put up the 37 is the winner. First its a 320 driveline with all its perks. Second its very low mileage I repeat low mileage! and it sure looks it to me by the fact that it has its original carpet which is quite telling. The interior and dash is untouched and quite amazing really for a car this old. Dash paint steering wheel and gauges are beautiful untouched shape. The price is negotiable and if I was fixated on this period Buick I would not hesitate to start here and make a cash offer. . Just look at the engine compartment and you can see the time capsule it is. I dont see this car as anything but a drive and enjoy and tinker with car . Cannot see how good the repaint is but this is a lot of car for the money and the year you said you liked. Outside of a 37 two door duel fender mount spare coupe or rag top roadmaster which are really pricey this is it, or a Century a wee bit shorter and lighter. Looks to have a damping shock on the tie rod that might indicate rebound in the steering caused by worn king pins and tie rods drag link etc but I kind of doubt it was needed as even worn Buicks dont flail around like Fords over the railroad tracks when things get loose. Also the whole thread about how bad it is having wood in its construction is a bit over the top. Wood last thousands of years if cared for or stored properly. I am betting this 37 was stored very dry for a long time. And buying from Gateway is a bonus for many reasons and sometimes dealing with an owner is quite dicey and frustrating. After having owned Specials Centurys and Roadmaster straight eights I could never be happy with the 248 drive line. The 320 spoils you even as it burns gas like a DC-3 . I just converted my 41 duel carbie Century to parallel linkage with matching AAV 16 Strombergs. It was really easy to do using off the shelf inexpensive Summit racing parts and all bolt on no modifications needed.Too cold for figuring out mileage but I think it might actually improve with this setup as if I care! Point is power and speed in a vintage car is fun ...a very good thing! ...No great thing!

HI Philip, In regards to engine rpm I think red line on all cars is usually past peak HP and top speed is achieved at about that limit of power being able to overcome drag so if the top speed of a Special is 85/90 miles and hour then at 65 it will be well below red line. Good oil and good crank mains is key in high speed extended driving and some oils are way better then others . Internal friction varies with tolerances and often a new motor will have a lower top speed and generate more heat then one that is a bit looser with less internal drag. My 40 thousand mile 320 runs 30lbs oil pressure at idle and 45lbs cruising at speed which is factory spec. I run a 180 stat and it stays there except in hot weather sitting for extended time it will show 195 but never over heats. Removing the lower shrouds to let in air from below helps cooling especially when parked hot and especially on the right side to cool the vapor locking fuel pump a little. I always open the hood latch to release some heat when stopped as it really is trapped in there with little convection from cooler ground air being able to circulate. I re cored my radiator with a modern better draining core and that is really a plus for cooling. I am not a fan of the heat risers and have mine pinned open as the intake manifold needs no additional help warming itself up on a Buick outside of serious winter start ups and who in St Paul right now is clearing the snow off their Buick eight for a run to the store? Yes I do like the proportions of the only slightly longer hood and front fenders on my Century but beauty is subjective. I love the looks of most prewar Buicks and forgive me but 39's not so much. About restored I find that the word has little meaning and most of the time is misleading so you must know what your looking at and what to ask about. Very seldom do I see restoration work that is with out issues that I will want to redo. With a largely unrestored car you get more honestly about its life and maintenance that for me is better then finding out in time just what a rough example lies beneath the shiny paint and new interior. That nice handsome looking 38 on Ebay is less then 18K ...thats just a wishful buy it now and reserve might be a lot less and ebay does not let you set them too close. That is just the kind of condition you want and a nice alternative color to black. The interior is very very good as is the engine bay. Tidy and clean this car shows care of ownership and respect to the originality. If you wanted a good start this might be a winner and as original cars are the focus of the market a good investment. Finding a car is just a matter of surfing sites and club forums and not being scared off by high prices. Sellers now must start high as car culture TV has taught us to low ball sellers hard. They will come way down with a real cash in hand buyer in most cases. Lots of motivated sellers with one car garages this time of year dreaming about buying something new! I am!

Nothing is better in actual real world driving then keeping pace with modern traffic. After having owned many American and European vehicles I have found it frustrating to be concerned about going to fast for the welfare of my drive train. I would hold out for a 38 Century with its big motor and coil springs it is better then a 37 leaf spring 248 special in performance and better looking to me then a 37 but thats subjective of course. The 38 Century already comes with the gearing braking and suspension that would elevate it into the high speed touring category of Buicks for years to come. My 41 Century has everything I wished for over Specials and Supers I have driven. Two doors will aways be scarcer and more valuable then four doors and always will cost more like ragtops. Buy a car you dont have to make into what it should be. I see nice Centurys under 20K all the time and would hold out for an original one that has been cared for or in storage for a long time and avoid "restored" at all cost. Centurys are harder to find but worth waiting for and are a better investment and quicker sale when your moving on. If you do buy a 37 special you will surely love it regardless and also find cruising at 60/65 no problem as long as engine temperature and oil pressure are within normal range. 50/55 are for the over heating flat head Fords!

Hello All, So much chatter! Over the years I have experienced chatter in all sorts of manual clutch 2 , 4 and 6 wheeled vehicles of various makes and I mention this to say it is not a Buick design flaw even if every old Buick you might own does this. Every prewar flathead Ford I owned chattered in reverse only but I cant say it was inherent to Fords. Takes very little contamination of the clutch surfaces to accomplish that as Matt Harwood stated. I find in most vintage cars and bikes with a dry clutch like Moto Guzzi and BMW storage often compromises the rear seal of both engine and transmission and sometimes as several have mentioned you can burn it off with use or abuse but if that dried up seal is still weeping it wont improve and old oil soaked into the clutch can glaze unevenly. They used to sell universal anti clutch chatter devices but I do not think these would ever do much. My 1941 Century 66S chattered so bad after its 45 year storage I had to avoid all possible lights I might get caught at with incline starts as getting away was blurring my vision and I could not burn it off or improve it with use. I had my original clutch assembly rebuilt at a shop where after truing the pressure plate face and renewing clutch material and release arm pins etc it was then spun assembled for balancing. I also renewed seals of course and torque ball seal for which I prefer the original cork material over the rubber as the cork will swell and seal better with less leakage having used both now. I highly recommend the shop I choose, sourced from an advert they ran on the Long Island Buick Club website. They specialize in vintage clutch assembly's and I think you are always better off renewing original parts over reproduction if still serviceable. The shop is called Falcon Clutch and they are in Deer Park Long Island NY and have a website. The shop is organised and tidy with all the special equipment needed to rebuild your old clutch and their experience with vintage is a plus. Best of all the price is very friendly. I now have the smoothest sweetest clutch and the second gear start which I could never do is like butter and finally I understand why Buick recommended this for mostly level starts. I spent half of what replacing everything with new parts costs and retain the parts she rolled off the line with in 41 which were quite well made. Ever notice how many truly awful looking Buick barn and field cars you see for sale that say it runs or motor turns over. So rarely do I see motor stuck! Try that with any other make. Love my Buick even more now!

Unless you plan on lifting the entire car full of people and luggage off the ground with one jack you certainly dont need a 3 ton capacity. Mine jack is from a Ford econoline van and works very well with not a lot of effort.

Saw this before on Craigs..now a lot cheaper! https://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/cto/5986395260.html

Interested in your Imperial if still available

I have my original jack under the rear seat where it will never leave. In the trunk I carry a scissors type jack which packs up nicely into a small period style tool box. Also good to have a spoon type tire tool and a wood shim to pop off the hubcap without munging the paint and a nice long breaker bar and socket from Sears for the lug nuts in case you hate the original lug wrench as much as me... Hope to never need any of it but am ready to make it as easy as possible. A giant can of tire sealer/inflater is also a lovely thing in bad weather or darkness.

Hi Paul, Love to see your 41 66s as I also have one and indeed your jack should be under the back seat. I bet there is one there! Hope you have looked by now. A note of warning regarding using your jack..DON'T! its a widow maker. I suggest carrying a nice scissors jack in the trunk in a period looking tool box. Send me a photo please! you can see my car in the photo section. Lawrence

Dont see a price on your trunk lining. How much? Thanks Lawrence

Hello fellow 66S owner! Dont need the board but could use some fabric to patch my Century trunk together. If no one bites on the complete set I am interested in fabric which looks a lot better then what I have. Kind Regards Lawrence

You can call me at 718 496 2386

I have a complete partially stripped front and rear bench from a 41 century. in very good condition without any rust until this week when I left it outside and it rained. So a few spots have appeared. Had the rear armrest assembly. I am going to toss it out unless you can use it. Has to be picked up on Long Island in New York about 22 miles east of midtown. Have other free bits if you show up for seats.