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  1. A couple of responses to the latest suggestions: Regarding spark at higher revs- I'm not sure what to think about that actually. I'll add that to the things I need to test out the next time I'm able to drive it. I did install a rebuilt (from that place in Texas) vacuum advance unit onto the distributor. The old one was shot and the new one does hold vacuum when I test with my vacuum gauge. And the line from the carb is new, so I think I'm ok with the advance. The plate in the distributor moves freely too. Yup, the weighted butterflies on the rear card do move freely.
  2. I did rebuild the fuel pump, it was pretty tired but is great now. I won't plan on running the electric pump full time, no. I think the accelerator pump on the carb is ok, it squirts like heck when you look into the carb and open the throttle. Good tip about the gas too; I was getting higher octane gas only because that's what is common for no-ethanol gas. But I used your web site suggestion (pure-gas.org) and found some places that sell 87 octane with no ethanol, so I'll try going with that. Regarding the summit Racing fan- do you mean an electric fan, or did you literally replace your
  3. Thanks a lot for the note. The plug wires are from the original restoration back in the early 70's. I guess I didn't think to question those because of how smooth the engine runs, when it's not having the problem. I could just change those, it's about time anyway I suppose. I can't recall how a plug looks; tan, black or white. I'll look at those. And I'll start experimenting with the idle screws, nothing to lose by trying that. I had them set for the smoothest idle and left it at that. But I'd be happy to have a bit rougher idle if it solves the bigger problem. Thanks again, and I'l
  4. I'm back. This thread from last summer had to do with my engine cutting out above a certain RPM when hot. Runs fine at all rpm's when NOT hot, but I can only drive it slowly when it's at full temperature. As long as I don't step on it, it runs fine when hot, I just can't go fast or the motor starts to stall out. In a nutshell, I've done everything talked about in the thread. All of it. And it's much better now, runs cooler, stalls less severely, etc. But it still stumbles above a certain speed when it's hot. My only question now is whether the carburetor could have anything to do with
  5. Late in coming but here's an update to this issue. It seems I had three problems- the coil, fuel supply, and insufficient cooling. I changed the coil first and that changed things a lot, to where the failures at warm up changed to a softer stalling that I could overcome with the electric fuel pump. The engine ran kind of hot, like 190, and the pump was clogged and old, so I rebuilt it (fuel was percolating with flow being too sluggish). That basically made the problem go away, but not entirely when really hot. So I next did the Evaporust Thermocure flush and installed a 160 degree thermo
  6. Thanks a lot for the info. Hmm, yeah, I've been getting the high octane thinking that would be better, but I'll try using the lower octane. I like to get whatever has no ethanol in it, when I can find it. But I can't remember if when I do find it, it's the high or low octane gas. Sure wish plain old gas wasn't so hard to find. And yes, I'm rebuilding the fuel pump this week. The 41 has a weird strainer in the bowl, and it was all gunked up. At any rate, we'll see what the new pump build brings. Thanks again all for the help.
  7. That's interesting, I hadn't given any thought to the gas cap. It's a vintage key-locked cap that came with the car. But I have a vented one that I can try instead. Also, waiting for the fuel pump kit and the Thermocure cooling system cleaner. I'll do those things next and we'll see. Thanks again for the posts!
  8. Thanks a lot, I'll hunt up that thread. It's pretty much the stock layout, coming up the side of the engine from the pump and going across in front of the valve cover, using the stock bracket that is there, but where it rounds the manifolds I might have cut the corner too close. Dumb. But, we'll see, maybe I'm just running too hot right now. Hope that's it (and that I can solve that). Thanks again.
  9. Thanks for the replies. And yes to all of them. It does seem that the remaining problem is the fuel getting too hot, either because my lines are too close to the engine and/or the pump is too weak to move the fuel very well. I'll rebuild the pump- if it was ever rebuilt it was in the late sixties when this car was first restored, so it could use another rebuild. And I'll move my electric pump switch into the car where I can get at it while driving. And thanks for the Thermocure tip, I'm going to do that- I also wonder if my engine is running too hot, I think it might be. Sure hope the
  10. Also- If I'm right about this problem, does that indicate a faulty stock fuel pump, and I should rebuild it? I would think so. Or, my engine simply runs way hotter than it should. The stock temp gauge works and it stays below 200, so I thought that was acceptable. It doesn't climb into the hot (220+) zone until I switch the engine off. But it seems to me that the fuel lines and the carbs shouldn't get so hot you can't touch them, right? Or is that normal? Larry
  11. Sort of an update but I'm not out of the woods yet. Holidays and kid's graduations and all kinds of other stuff caused delays, but I finally replaced the coil. That changed things, it doesn't die off so hard now, I can keep it running in gear when warm. But, it still acts up when hot. There's a sort of "chush" sound from the carbs and a loss of power and I have to get the rpm's down to keep it running. So for the heck of it I switched on my electric fuel pump and just left it on while driving around (the switch is under the hood for some reason). I think that might have stopped the probl
  12. Thanks again for the responses. I was gone all weekend and unable to do anything but I hope to try the things I outlined above this week, barring bad weather. Boy, will it ever be great if the problem actually is one of the things we've been talking about....
  13. I meant to say- also one more suggestion that I can try is the electric fuel pump. The car has one but I've only used it prior to starting a hot motor, I've never tried running it all the time, while driving the car. Good idea though, definitely something to try. I'll add that to the list. And as you say, try each suggestion one at a time. Thanks again.
  14. Wow, I'm grateful for the responses, I have some possible solutions to try now. Per Matt and MCHinson, I'll order a coil from Bob's or CARS. While I'm waiting for that I'll experiment with some temporary Kevlar shielding on the fuel lines and filter, just to eliminate that. I'll then try the new coil when it arrives. If that doesn't solve it I'll try a new condenser. I see what you mean about coils- you can't get a new one with the bottom connection like the originals, they now all look like the usual kind with both connections at the top. So you must have to add a section of wir
  15. Yes, nothing would surprise me, maybe it's that. I've always tried for E0 but there might be some E10 in there, a lot of times I can't find E0. I know what vapor lock is like when trying to start a hot engine, but I don't know what the experience is like when you're driving the car. Is it like this, where the engine seems to die off ?
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