ArticiferTom

Looking for on my '31 dodge pickup w artillery wheels . Speeds under 60 downhill with wind . Never heard of over heating ,was just looking for quality . Forums seem to say today's import tubes are so bad , of coarse with internet you only hear bad, not necessarily the other 500 good .

Roger would that hold true for my 3speed trans and diff . on '31 dodge/ Graham truck w 4cyl Plymouth engine . 1500 wt steam oil ! I have trans drained and top off and flushed with kero ,as system was water contaminated .

Attached some close ups . I think wd or kero may be just what it needs . I'm not sure know to get it out ,washer ring on bottom may be something . You'll have to careful because of gear reduction plug .

If you remove it and oil it while spinning with a vari-sped drill . Do not use cable stick square something ie nail filed square . Is there lot of corrosion in the housing or is it just dry . I'll take pic of cable end to show after LLWS game.

Sorry do not know exactly what you mean by nipping . Where the cable goes up into the housing you can stick a small screwdriver blade and turns freely the shaft right up to the magnetic dome . It also turn at a slow ratio the worm gear that drives the odometer . I see two pin with plastic washers under them . I think they hold the respective shafts in . Have you tried cleaning and lubing before taking that much apart (WD-40 ) . Remember to try avoid reduction gear inset . Call me if you need me to check something else out . When you look up the cable hole I see a split washer (ring) , do not know what this does , may just be stop for cable . Replacement generic cable is available with crimp on ends . Ebay. Note found that two pins in housing were actually oil caps and fibre with felt under . After oiling shaft turns smoother yet.

Well dropped the dash down to remove gauge .There was spring inside clock type ,but problem is the dial arm itself is broke off at spring spindle . May try to soldier it back together , doubt can find just that part . Every thing was dirty and grit ,old lube took pic after cleaning . Thoughts WELCOME on making repair .

Was curious if any tried those motorcycle extra heavy 3mm tubes ebay sells ? Sounds like there almost double the strength .Is there any cons ie repairs,or valve stems ?

Have barrel type meter on my '31 dodge pickup .Noticed cable bend and spread at trans. side so removed cable. While trying to push cable back together it slide back into connector looks great . But was it suppose to? How much end should stick out past trans. end , meter end has limiter attached on cable ? Also what lube should I put on cable before sheathing it ? I also note the meter moves when hand turning cable but never returns to zero , is there a spring inside ? This Forum's been great help for me getting this truck I recently acquired back on the road . I finally finished brakes ,total resleeve and reline and rehose . When checking trans fluid level found water got in when roof leaked I guess . Had to pull top and flushed out with Kero in garden sprayer . Need to track down some 600wt steam oil . and change rear also . Thanks again one and all !

Any buddy try those 3mm thick ,extra heavy duty extreme motorcycle tubes ? Notice on ebay. sized for 19" ,.

Took another look this weekend mine has a channel steel frame between seat frame and chassis frame .However do not see why it could not be wood . Probably support cab from ground independently , until doors lay out square and grab some measurements for wood .

I do not see any wood sub frame of wood there are two short maybe 4x4 blocks about 12" long behind back of cab that support the pickup box front .Sorry can not be more help .Maybe some else can chime in .

Here is some pictures of my floor , however the front section by pedals is plywood . meaning it is not original . All the pedal are just notched down from top 1/4x20 flat head bolt hold it down . There are two studs ,highlighted by cardboard, about size of 20 or 30pn nail head up about 3/8" that mat hooks to . from starter pedal center line right 2" plus 8"more to center second , I think maybe should have one on left side but mine does not .There is also a foot rest 1 3/4 " to left of starter pedal and 2" down from top . The mat is at least two pieces book pics show what looks like 3 . Small piece at top that hang over lower to cover notches and studs .http://www.myhostedpics.com/images/ArticiferTom/woodfloor.jpg,http://www.myhostedpics.com/images/ArticiferTom/floormat.jpg

I'll help'ya out . On front part mine lays in lower rail section . Apparently same cowl was used on larger truck and upper rail was used on those . So that will give you the basic square dimension . Will get rest for 'ya . Tom

Looks like a set of inside door and window handles on ebay . Not mine but match my '31 dodge /graham .http://www.ebay.com/itm/400975156075?item=400975156075&viewitem=&vxp=mtr

Check out that Uvira in the search of Tech. Some good stuff. It's fogged on aluminum but has to be put over nickel and then glass coated to preserve it .

Roger on that ! Do not know about Friday nite am going to try and get there Thur or Fri. Did you hear any thing from Rich if he got the hub puller or not. For an original Springfield priced at 45. was pretty good .

Hello Stakeside ; I just started looking for headlight for my '31 dodge to replace sealed beams . Need some pics and info on lens and the bottoms ie. mounting and spacer ? Would greatly appreciate any help. You may want to do some more checking. I read something about a coating other than silver ,may have been aluminum or something ,it was not powder coat . But may been applied the same way .

Got the pics from Glenn . It definitely helped me disassemble my frozen tire lock and showed me some lights need to get what I saw verified . I pm'ed George on it . On another note with brakes all removed I send every thing to Hagen's in Washington for sleeve and reline . Said about 5-7 working days . Is this Budds Creek something special for Dodges or trucks ? Tom

Thanks for the offer ,but I did get one . Not sure if it was Rich with Blue '29 did not know it as Standard Six . He said his measured 2 1/4" and me and Norm found one on table about 4 or 5 vendors down from your setup. We went back and gave him the vendors card, he was going to find him when we left . Hey , Doug remember the booklet I bought . Well I contacted the guy in back with the other uf-10 pickup , his was only about 200 serial numbers from mine. When I called him Sunday ,he was a bite taken back . He did not know about the article being republished in DBC book . He first words where IT'S Not FORSALE . When I said I already have one he offered to help anyway he could . Claims he has not run truck in 10 years and offered to photo any parts I had questions on ,as none of his photo he has where taken digitally .I think he has had the truck for almost 40 years .This will help me greatly ! Tom

Hello George (assuming) . Yes my truck is in my avatar pic a'31 Dodge / Graham the thread are same front and back at 2 3/8x16 tpi . I had purchased a new McMurtry puller already . Put may be interested in an original . Was your friend the owner of the '29 dodge sedan who was looking for a puller and if so did he get the one we found from the vendor . I am looking to swap or buy set of headlights I have the seal beam Guide type on the truck now . I'am in contact with another '31 dodge owner now he saying , they are Twi-lite depressed beam two bulbs and metal not chrome about 9 3/8 or 8 7/8 lens (needed to check ) . Also need to get proper tail light .

HuZahh! The puller arrived today . Prior a had decided to attack it at the key way .I clean all grease away with carb cleaner ,then added penetrating fluid and PB baster to it . Figured it would travel the key way and pour it to available spaces in taper . Next added one puller very snuggly and lower wheel to ground 5 short wacks with 5lber . Heard tone change on 4 and it was loose , Could not believe how easy it worked . Thanks to George and Mark S for your recommendation . Next cylinders and shoes .

Thanks for every ones help to date .I have George sending me out a puller Monday 2 3/8" it is. George is the Man when it comes to machining and pullers . Talked on phone with him . He was having concerns with the measurements I was giving him though the differentials seem close the numbers where always about .026" smaller then what he said 2 3/8" threads should be . After talking about the caliper's I was using he ask me to check the teeth on the rail as he suspected chips or dirt was causing a skip . BINGO the dial calipers had both ;,a quick measurement with a mic. gave the correct measurement +.026.And a good cleaning under magnification fix the calipers. Learning every day ! Your right on the safety on brakes it Is bad enough it one chamber system can not risk blow out . So it is either new units or re-sleeve . I also leaning toward riveted shoes as originals .

Looks like 2 3/8 x 16TPI is the number info posted in Buy/Sell hub puller thread I started .

That's it on page one Springfield size #60 2 3/8 x 16 tpi . I'm surprised all the other vehicles that use the same . On good news I am in contact with George McMurtry he said has one in stock to send out asap ,after verifying some measurements on length . Next is wheel cylinder to sleeve or use incorrect replacements ie step bores needing mounting plate hole opened 1/8" + . Honing and rebuild is out as already did one and it now .015 over on a .005 oyer max. Heard latter some where blasting rust out and filling with JB bond and honing to take care of pits . Have you heard this?

I called the Ford are a finer thread about 24 TPI . Is there another page to your thumbnails as I see two page 2's . Info I need may be on page one .