cricketkj26

Can someone please advise how to remove the distributor ? Is there a lock ring /tab somewhere or roll pin that needs to be removed ? I have not removed a distributor from any engine other than a 67 Ford Mustang- quite a long time ago. Thanks, Cricket

Looking Great ! Thanks for keeping us posted on your progress. Best of Luck to you ! Im putting it on my travel list. Cricket

The earliest thing that Autocolorlibrary.com has for Old Chryslers starts with Jan 1929. I asked the AACA library for 25 Chrysler colorss and they could not come up with anything. The Dupont automotive coatings div has sold out- they were suppose to have the largest automotive color library in the world. Does anyone know where we can get the color information for these original Chryslers ? I would really like to know if the two tone colors on my 25 are correct. Thanks, Cricket

Bernbaums only has parts for 1930 and up - the same for 99.5 % of Chrysler parts sources and when you ask these suppliers as where you can go for the 20s chrysler parts they all tell you- they dont know. You just have to keep asking and searching. You can get 20's era reproduction plug wires in several different fabric colors and or with tracer colors, Lacquered or not. I have a 25 G70 coach. Information and knowlegeable folks of specific details on these original 24-27 cars are very hard to come by. I have looked at every engine compartment picture I could find on the interweb - when it comes to plug wires Ive seen various colors and finishes and different types of connectors going to the plugs. We (me included) have to remember that in the matls , parts, manufacturing methods, and technology was rapidly developing in the period so things changed fast. There seems to be more Chrysler roadster photos on the ole interweb of the very early models. One good thing as far as whats actually original correct if its being judged in a show (from what ive seen) because there are so few of these early Chryslers - the judges are most likely not going to penalize the car specifically for color or type of cloth on the plug wires as long as it was available back then.(They dont know either on the early Chryslers). At Hershey this past yr there was only one 24-27 Chrysler on the judging field- a 4 cyl, 2 door hardtop coupe. I came from Flordia to Hershey, for the biggest reason, was to see some 24-26 beginning years Chrysler and that was it. I think that car was the sole representation for a 24-29 Chrysler of any model. Spinney is is correct - You are going to have to do the research to determine on any and all parts if they are correct for your car model and year. Also if you ask five folks -you will get five answers alot of the time. You have to weed out what info does not apply to your specific mdl and yr. There are parts on a 24,25,26 that are the same and there are parts that are not even between models on these earlier cars. There are alot of differences in parts on a 27 compared to a 25. There are some knowledgeable folks on here that can provide some good insight and assistance. As far as hard print info or old manuals- good luck. This my first go at a pre war Antique car so everything is an new experiance for me. Cricket. T i

When I sent out the radiator cap to be nickel plated I thought I was going to remove the gasket out of the cap and then put a new in a new one upon return of the cap. I pulled out ( 6) six layers of round 1/16" thk cloth inserted black rubber gaskets out of the center of the cap. What the heck ! Is there some kind of round solid backing plate that is suppose to be inside the cap that would be underneath a gasket ? Is the gskt suppose to be cork ? What thickness ? See below photo 1926 cap Thanks, Cricket

I have a 1925 G70 2 door Coach built in Oct 1925. It has the hologram style fedco plate mounted in the dash to left of the steering wheel. This a US Built car. Maybe the aussie cars going down under didnt have the fedco plates yet ? Good luck. Cricket FL USA

Can anyone advise where I can locate the cloth covered seals/gaskets that go between the glass lens and the metal lens retaining ring. Also need a photo of the correct style bolts for fender installation. Thanks, Cricket. JKJ

Could someone please post a photo of a correct oil filter canister for 1925 or 1926 G70 6 cylinder. It would be much appreciated. Im also trying to find some copper sealing washers for the banjo bolts on the wheel cylinders. The ones I need have three little tabs that extend out into the ID of the washer to allow the brake fluid to flow around the shank of the bolt. I have called a number of places and searched the ole interweb and have come up empty. 0.75 OD x 0.50 ID excluding the tabs . The 3 tabs are at 120 deg apart from each other, These are not unique to just Chrysler. Any Lockheed hydraulic brake system in the 20s or 30s would have used these I believe. Thanks, Cricket

Thanks Keiser31. Im hoping to have it back on the road soon. Matthew - Thanks for your help It was much appreciated. Cricket

Try George Bachleda at Ol Car Bearing 910-693-3324 in Southern Pines, NC right outside Ft Bragg. - Vintchry gave me this info on my post about bearings and seals for my 25 Chrysler rear rend , and axle bearings. George is very knowledgeable , quite helpful and had every seal and bearing I needed including the pinion seal. Cricket

Ok sounds simple enough . l tried it and it works Thanks. Why is it so big- Can I control the size ? .Thanks for the info . My 25 Chrysler G70 Cricket

Folks - This is probably a stupid question to most of you folks - but will someone please tell me how to post a photo on the forum so that others can see what you are asking about. Im not very tech savy - Obviously ! and only know enough about computers to be dangerous. So please don't skip any steps. Thanks in advance. Cricket Maybe there is a section on the forums that has these instructions posted. If so where ?

I need any assistance I can get in for locating , Part #s , and a supplier for Grease seals - Front axle bearing seals, Rear axle outer bearing seals, Rear end pinion seal. Thanks to a couple of you folks I have acquired a Reprinted 1931 Chiltons Spring Automotive Guide. It lists the part #s for many of the mechanical parts on the car but not these seals. Any help would be appreciated. I have called and emailed a number of advertised suppliers of old Chysler parts and have had no success. Car was built in October 1925. By the way- the Chiltons Guide is an excellent resource. It has cross references of many parts for all Makes 1931 and older. It can be found easily and at cheap prices on E-Bay or Amazon. ( this is for all us newbies that didn't know about this Chiltons Guide ) Thanks, Cricket

I have a '25 G70 and I have the crank handle - Problem is I can't figure out how to post a photo on this site. Post your email address and I'll email you a photo of It. Me and Computers don't get along very well. Or send me an email at jkjordan@bellsouth.net Cricket.

I am also in need of a back plate for a Remy 917-T Generator, for my G70 built in Oct 1925. Please keep us posted on what you find. Thanks, Cricket.

On 25 and 26 Chrysler - Do the brake fittings require the brake lines to have a 45 degree flare or 37 degree flares ? Thanks, Cricket

I just in the last 2 months had my master Cylinder and all 4 wheel cylinders rebuilt ( including bored and brass sleeved ) at White Post, I wanted to use Dot 5 Silicon Fluid going back in .Im replacing all the lines, hoses ,cleaned all the fittings on my 25 Chrysler. They advised me to Do Not Use Silicon fluid and if I did, my lifetime Warranty is Null and Void. Anybody know why ?? They just said its bad stuff only used by the military for a short time and to flush and change the brake fluid once a year. Ive read mostly all positive things about Dot 5. With living in Florida with very high humidity and the paint issues I thought the Silicon would be perfect. HAs folks had issues with using Silicon in brass sleeved systems? Do you need special seals in the MC and Whl Cylndrs ? Cricket

Thanks Viv , I'll give it a try with these tips. I've never worked on anything like these before. I glad you responded ! Cricket

I have a late 1925 G70. I am ready to reinstall all the brake components after rebuild. I've read the owners manual on adjusting the brakes-using feeler gages. Can you folks that have experience with the Lockheed hydraulic exterior brake band system, offer up some tips and or tricks for installation, filling the system with brake fluid, and doing the band adjustments ? Every component , fitting and line was removed. I know how and where it all bolts back up. I never had to fill a completely dry brake system. It looks like I have to work thru the wood wheel spokes to adjust the band adjusting nuts and use the feeler gages. Any advice , tips , tricks, ect would be great ! Thanks, Cricket

Is the Fedco # and Engine Serial# stamped anywhere else on the car or frame other than on the engine and on the dash plate ? I have both #s located on the correct locations. Just wondering if they are also marked elsewhere ? 25 Chryler G70. Thanks, Cricket.

I will try that Thanks for the reply. Cricket.

Mr. Franklin - What book is it that has this information in it ? Where might I get a copy of it if possible ? Again - thanks everyone for all the input. Cricket

Can someone advise the correct brake band Lining new matl thickness ? What is the min thickness - down to the brass Rivet heads or slightly above ? There is 1/8" of matl left - not down to the rivet heads yet. The wheel cylinders were leaking so brake fluid leaked on the linings. Can the linings be cleaned with anything in order to save them or do the bands just flat out need to be relined ? We have an industrial steam cleaning machine in our machine shop - will that hurt the lining matl ? I don't have unlimited funds so if I can save them without sacrificing safety, Id like to. All four wheel cylinders look exactly the same except on two - the holes where the bleeders are installed are drilled and tapped approx. 3/16" deeper than the other two - so the bleeders stick up farther on two of the cylinders. I did not mark which cylinder came off which wheel location. Does this make any difference ? All four bleeders seem to seat properly and were not leaking. I think Im asking too many questions and getting to wordy in one post ? Ive got more questions on bleeder styles I'll ask in another post. Cricket J K Jordan

Thank you all for responding. Im a newbie. Prior to this 25 Chrysler the oldest thing I worked on was 1960's Volvos. I will take all into consideration. Is anyone knowledgeable about the brake band matl thickness ? THis car has 4 wheel exterior band brake bands. Thanks, Cricket J K Jordan

How does one go about cleaning out copper brake lines ? The master cylinder, reservoir and all 4 wheel cylinders have been removed and brass sleeved. I need to flush out all the lines before reinstalling all these parts. There was a fair amount of sludge in all the wheel cylinders, a good bit of water and very small bits of rust particles in the brake fluid when I emptied the reservoir. From that, Im assuming the lines and fittings have sludge in them too. Car is 1925 Chrysler with exterior band brakes. The exterior of the lines and fittings appear to be in good condition with no leaks. All The wheel cylinder seals and a couple of the banjo connections were leaking. Also, what is the band lining thickness suppose to be ? Thanks, J K Jordan (Cricket)