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cricketkj26

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Everything posted by cricketkj26

  1. That is a Head Light on a Chrysler 1924 B70, 1925 B70, 1926 G70 and possibly the Chrysler Sixty for the same years. Part of 6 Volt cable plug appears to be in the recessed electrical socket. The round cable plug with the cable attached is inserted into the socket, pushed into the socket approx 1/2" and then rotated approx 30m degrees to lock it in place to make contact with the bottom of the socket. I can provide photos of the can internal components. I have not before seen the recessed ring of the nickel plated lens retaining ring - being blacked out like the one in the photos. Other folks may know about that. The lights on my 1926 G70 coach (built Oct 1925/ titled in Nov 1925) Those retaining Rings were not blacked out but one of the 2 rings on the 2 original unrestored head- lights I acquired is blacked out as shown in the above photos.( they must have come off two different models). Maybe someone can shed some light on that. Hope this info helps. Cricket
  2. Are not the part #s that are cast into the heads for the red head and silver dome different from the standard heads ? Just asking . I dont know. I wonder what happened to the gentleman that about 3 yrs ago said he was in the process of having molds made and would be casting and machining them and was looking for folks to pre sell them to . ??? Cricketkj26
  3. That is One Cool Cat . Love the swept back rear window and trunk. Vey Nice . CricketKJ26 I like the color too.
  4. Thanks for the info and comments Gentlemen. I did see on the internet the general Info about Torsion axles only lasting 15-20 years and my trailer being 20 years old. I got concerned. I pulled a 30 ft high school band trailer all over FL. south GA for 4 years and never had a flat tire. We constantly checked tire pressure, bearing hub temp, and tire wear every trip coming and going. Cricketkj
  5. Wow those are some incredible Files that took some serious note taking , data recording and Research. You definitely benefit from professional grade software, apps and a upgraded computer to drive those Tools! You have a lot more brain power than I'll ever have. I truely get the point now. Cricket. Thanks for sharing this issue.
  6. Great Topic and alot of good Posts. I helped my dad work on Mom and Dads cars from about 10 yrs old. Started handing him tools out of the toolbox . He would be under the car describing the tool he needed in detail and showing as he went about different size wrenches and sockets and screw drivers and such. It didnt take long before I could quickly hand him exactly what tool he needed and graduate to being under the car using the tools with his guidance. When I went work full time the week after I graduated from high school in 1980 the first big purchase I made was a 200 piece full set of Craftsman tools from 1/4 to 1" std and metric wrenches, complete sets 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 drive std and deep well sockets (std and metric), ratchets, extensions, pull bars, screwdrivers, Pliers, no 45 piece bit sets and no 10pcs of hacksaw blades and that crap. It was all good quality American made stuff. Paid $250.00 bucks. I was a mechanical draftsman not a mechanic but I worked on my own vehicles, boats, ect. I was proud of my tools. I had more tools of complete sets than my dad and most of the neighborhood. Best $250.00 Ive spent and still have and use most all of that 200 pc set. Have about 3 times the amount of hand tools now and 20 high grade electric tools, plus air tools, ect. and know how to use everything. Long story to say I learned how to work on cars, trucks, boat engines, lawn mowers, all kinds of stuff from my dad and he taught us to care for and clean our tools. We were a do everything ourselves family, plumbing, electrical, carpentry, everything. Im 61 years and got my first old car 7 1/2 years ago - a 1925 Chrysler G70 that needed alot of mechanical work. and I dived right in. Didnt have to buy but a couple of tools. Had a retired machinist in our AACA club make a special J hook spanner wrench to get the threaded rear bearing and axle housing caps off and another special modified spanner wrench to get to the pinion seal on the front of the rear end housing. Thanks to all you folks for freely sharing your knowledge and expertise on these forums. I have also became a AACA judge and have met many good friendly folks along the way all wiling to share and teach their skills. Thanks a Million to a great group of all you folks !! Hope to finally get her going this fall. Its been a long haul. CricketKJ.
  7. Please keep in mind that for folks out there that have or working on 1924-1927 6 cylinder Chryslers - the blue/ green engine block color Does Not Apply - seems to start for 1928. accept for maybe Imperials. Engine Blocks were black as best as we can tell. I have looked at hundreds of photos nd I have seen all kinds of engine colors,. A couple of folks that contribute regularly to this Chrysler section has and or worked on a number of these very early unmolested survivors and another gentlemen I ran across has an original survivor 1925 Sixty that the engine has not been painted over. Head was were black on that one . Redhead Heads were red and Silverdome heads were silver as mentioned on above thread. Those heads had "Redhead" and "Silverdome" cast into the top of the head. I have seen a number of silver gray heads in photos for 1924- 1925 heads. The photos of the Six cylinder engine that was at the Chrysler museum had a silver gray head. It had to be a 24 or 25 as it did not have the exhaust manifold Heat Control on the rear of the exhaust portion of the manifold. Cricket.
  8. There is an aerosol product I use on Cast Iron parts called Cast Blast - manufactured by Seymour, same color as cast iron. Comes in a 12oz Aerosol spray can # 16-048 "Cast Iron Gray". Yes its VOCC compliant. I do not see a max Temp use on the can. Its made in the US, phone# 800-435-4482. I get it from my local Automotive Paint store. This is not your average $ 5.00 can of spray paint you pick up at Home Depot or Ace Hardware. It is made to put on cast iron or replicate the color of cast iron gray. Cricket.
  9. Wow!, There is definitely some large amount of grey matter being used in this topic. I can envision the usefulness of an advanced spreadsheet program for tracking parts ,vehicles, mods, production, ect, ect, If you work the Smithsonian, national archives, or for a diverse Restoration facility that tags and tracks every part. Im impressed that most of you folks (I'm Assuming) who are retired or semi retired would want to take on ambitious projects that requires advanced excel spreadsheet methods. Im only 61 and use computers everyday and would not dare to venture into such a project. I just want and would have a hard time using a systematic non complicated system of recording, tagging, and tracking parts and sub assemblies on my 1925 Chrysler project. Im 7 years into it . I guess Its never to late to get stated to do a simple way on the computer. I look at a computer as a necessary evil rather than a helpful tool. I have spend 3 -4 hours transferring photos from cell phone to laptop and tagging them, poof- hit the wrong key and its all gone, LOL(yes I've done it). I just want to get the car back together and not have 10 = 20 nuts and bolts left over or spend 2-3 hours figuring out how something goes back together while looking back thru hundreds of photos , Ouch - yes this is my first big project. Kudos to you folks taking on or trying to improve historical data that could be shared across the vintage vehicle world. After working all day staring and typing into a computer 45-50 hrs a week and culling thru email after email the last thing I want to do after I walk away from the desk Is get on my personal PC. I rarely check my personal emails due to looking at so many during the day. Its time to hit the shop ! Good Luck with the Spread Sheets, Research Projects , and to all our wrench turning escapades. Cricket.
  10. Thanks all for your comments, experiences, and advice. Cricket.
  11. Same Pace Trailer as my spare tire topic -20ft enclosed 2003 Pace American Pursuit 7000Lb GVWR car trailer- there is not 2 std 3500 Lb axles on the trailer. It has 4 wheel independent torsion suspension. I assume that is what Pace used on all the Pursuit series trailers back then. I have had the trailer since Sept 2015. The 4 torsion axle tubes are welded directly to the trailer frame. The trailer is 20 years old. How long does this type of suspension hold up ?? I know the complete history on the trailer. It has never been overloaded (max 6000Lb GVR) and is stored empty. The trailer has very low milage. Approx 6000 miles total in 20 yrs (3000mi in the last year) But expecting to use it 3500 mi a year the next several. It has never been abused and is well maintained. but since Ive had it its been stored outside. Thanks, CricketKJ26
  12. I run four ST 225R15 Radial 10 ply, load E tires (2830Lb) on my 20ft enclosed Pace American Pursuit 7000Lb GVWR. I carry 2 spares - 1 is a 1 year old Goodyear Endurance same as the four on trailer. It is stored in recessed tire well in the deck of the trailer. The other spare is the same size and rating but is a Power King Towmaster. It has never been used and stored inside the trailer in north FL for 7 years. How long can these tires be a viable spare if never used and kept inside the trailer out of the sun ? Trailer gets used approx 3000 miles a year right now . All tires including spares are balanced. Should the spares be kept in the garage and deflated when trailer is not being used ? Thanks, Cricket
  13. Can Yall please explain what a Pilot Ray unit is ? Just trying to learn something here - just curious. Thanks, Cricket
  14. Are there any differences between a 1926 G70 engine and a 1927 70 engine ? Same internal parts ? Concept Cars website shows 1927 70 engine as 288.6 cu.in. ??? Is that correct ? The G70 is 218.5 cu.in. and they show the 1928 72 as 249.7cu.in. ?? Thanks, Cricket KJ26
  15. Thanks Leomara. There are alot of Auto Literature guys that will have booths at Hershey and guys selling old car ads and signs . Sometimes looking at a booth or walking in you think =Oh all they have are signs and advertising items . I figured out you have to ask specifically for what you are looking for. There alot of folks out there other than these big guys with thousands of auto books that have old manuals for sale that dont advertise on Google or Ebay. Alot of it is word of mouth and luck. Alot this prewar stuff has probably been thrown out or sitting in attics and book shelfs that whoever has it doesnt know they have or doesnt know what it is. I wonder if a big city library system like New York, Detroit, Chicago, LA might have some these 20's and 30's Chrysler Books ? I found a whole original Chrysler parts books set in parts counter binders at Hershey s 5 years ago that had all the car parts books 1924-1933 but the guy wanted $ 1500.00 for it and I could not afford that. He came down to $1250 but I couldnt do it.
  16. Jay Astheime Has a few cams that may or may not be what I need. Ill send him mesurements ad see if he can verify if one of them is what I need. Ill start another topic on the engine since this title is For cam and crankshaft. Cricketkj26
  17. Thanks for the info Viv. Trying to just see what might be available out there to soften the blow to the ole wallet if it would work. The Main and rod bearings are definitely going to have to be re babbitted. I think the cam lobes are pitted too badly. I got the part#s out the 70 instruction book ,11 Edition ,April 1926. The 9th Edition, Nov 15 1925, has the same part #s . The Fedco # is WL488H Engine S/N # is G101113. Engines out of what models will go back in and bolt up to the existing cross member bolt Pattern, clutch and transmission ? I also have completely rebuilt like new Remy distributor, starter, and generator that will have to work for whatever I might find. CricketKJ 26
  18. PART # CORRECTIONS Need Camshaft - correct Chrysler pt# 52242 -( No pitting on lobes) and Crankshaft - correct Chrysler pt# 53905 ( no pitting on Main or rod journals ) Sorry about that- Typo's and Dumbo's. Cricketkj26
  19. In search of a good Camshaft and Crankshaft for the G70 above Can anyone provide any interchange information for original Cam pt # 52246 and crank pt# 553905 ? Thanks, Cricketkj26. Engine is original to the car. Camshaft lobes badly pitted and crank main and rod journals are also pitted. Cam and crank bearings are babbitt.
  20. Thankyou Jason. Kelly. Thats a good website for ref. Im going to get my AACA friend that thats a semi retired machinist that still has his shop to cut or mill the 5 pcs of shim stock, drill the holes, and nip the 45deg corners from appropriate matl. Everyone down here is impressed with the work you did on the Remy generator, distributor, and starter. Much appreciated. Cricketkj26
  21. Need Camshaft - Chrysler pt# 52246 -( No pitting on lobes) and Crankshaft - Chrysler pt# 553905 ( no pitting on Main or rod journals ) The part #s are the original Nov 1925 listed part#s I dont have any interchange part #s. Car was built in Oct/Nov 1925. would Need to be shipped to North Florida Thanks, Cricketkj26
  22. Are there Chrysler product Adds in the group ? How far back age wise do these go back ? Thanks, Cricket
  23. The generator is mounted on the back side of the timing chain case and is driven by the timing chain via a sprocket gear, The generator shaft cplg (coupling) is basically a long thin flex cplg that acts as a shear pin. It is 5 stacked pieces of Its 5 stacked pieces of 3/8" wide spring steel that is total height is approx 1/4" thick with 45deg chamfers on all 4 corners. Length is approx 3-1/8". I accidentally broke all 5 pcs of the spring steel when I forced the crank over with the hand crank. with the hand crank. The cplg pieces were the only damage. The question is - Can those 5 stacked pieces of spring steel be replaced with 1 solid piece of mild steel with the same total size. Some Newer cars (like 1929 or later and differernt mfrs) with timing chain driven generators used a single pc of mild steel bar. The shop that is going to do the rebuild recommends using a solid bar to repair the coupling rather than the stacked spring steel because thats how it was done on later year cars. The head of the coupling also holds the sprocket gear on the spindle shaft thats on the front of the generator mtg bracket. Im the type if it originally was made with layered spring steel pieces and it obviously worked as the shear pin and a flex cplg then put it back how it was originally. But I know there can be easier and better ways to do things and it will not be seen. Are there issues using a one piece mild steel bar or maybe bronze ? Thanks, Cricket
  24. What about the AACA Library -would they have copys of these parts breakdowns. I would love to hold of a copy for 26 G70 . I will call and ask. Cricket
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