Riviera63
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Posts posted by Riviera63
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21 minutes ago, RivNut said:
The Corvette supply houses have this pen style retractor available from the aftermarket.
That is where I got the ones I just removed. They look like the picture I have attached. The ones I just installed were with an original set of 63 belts.
Bill
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17 minutes ago, XframeFX said:
Bill, my theme is original as to the best of 1st Gen. Rivieras as GM offered, not specifically to 1963. Reason why I consider a future ST400 Switch-Pitch to be original.
I find those 1965 retractor Lap Belts the best of 1963-65. Retractors not necessarily my goal.
I have aftermarket web mounted retractors I should install. My original Lap belts from a parts car are black, my interior is red.
Gotcha.
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17 minutes ago, TallJohn said:
This has happened to me about three times in the last five years since my car has been roadworthy. I go to get gas, unscrew the gas cap and woosh, there seems to be pressure in the tank. I had put a new sending unit assembly in the refurbished gas tank prior to installation. Overflow tube attached. Is it as simple as getting a " vented" cap? Pinched overflow/vent hose? Anyone else have this issue? Car runs fine, just kind of strange feeling the pressure come out when taking the cap of. Happens rarely. Thanks folks.
I believe they should be vented. Here is the cap on my 1963.
Bill
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5 hours ago, XframeFX said:
I've given-up my desire for 1965 Riviera retractable Lap Belts in my '63.
Do they need to be retractors like the 65? I had retractors which were reproductions of GM retractors of the era on the seat belts I just took out. I did find a pair of retractors that are what I believe to be correct Buick/GM retractors for 1963. Early on I got tired of the belt flopping out of the car and even sometimes chipping paint.
Bill
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Very happy as the seat belts arrived today. This time black as they were supposed to be. Fronts are in today. Rears are going in on Friday.
Bill
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2 hours ago, Deanoko said:
I recently replaced the voltage regulator on my 64 and ran into a problem with the AMP light not behaving properly. I believe that the light is turned out by it being powered by both the alternator field when the engine is spinning and first by the ignition switch from the battery. There are several resister coils on there back of the regulator which assist in this logic. My old regulator has 3 coil wire resistors on the back, but the new one only had 2.
The symptom was that the alternator light came on bright with the engine running even though I had 13.7vdc at idle and 14.2 off idle at the battery.
Putting the old regulator back on solved the problem.
Look at the difference below. New on left. Pretty subtle.
There are some real light weight VRs out there with no way to see what's going on underneath the riveted covers. This new one was the closest to OEM.
Maybe there is an exact match out there new, but I haven't found it yet.
Another option is the Wells VR715. Duralast also makes a VR715. Many of us have used this. Modern electronic technology. Just drill out the rivets holding the cover on and your old cover is an exact fit. No one will be the wiser. I have had one on my car for several years and no issues. My original Delco 1119515 had only 2 coil resistors.
Bill
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When the Cool lever is in the "off" position the plunger is depressed not allowing vacuum to go through the switch. From what I understand when the Cool lever is in the "on" position it releases the plunger and allows vacuum to flow through the switch to the blue vacuum line which in turn "T's" up with the blue line from switch # 3 and goes to the actuator on the firewall via a black line. The green line from switch #3 also goes to the actuator. Vacuum has to be applied to both ports on the actuator to pull the door open so that air flows to the AC vents.
My first set up which wasn't exactly true to this routing. I redid it with the correct routing as in the car minus switch #3. The same result. Vacuum flowed through the switch and in turn to the actuator.
I also did the way you suggested. The switch allowed vacuum through and registered on the gauge.
What all of this tells me is that switch # 1 is good. I now believe I need to test switch # 3 to see if it is the culprit.
Bill
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I was searching the Buick Farm website and came across a listing for the air filter for our Rivieras. It says they have one in stock. Grab it before it is gone.
https://buickfarm.com/product/element-air-filter-nors/
Bill
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Applied to be accepted for the show and received an invitation. My brother and I will be making the trip. Very excited about this. It will be good to see Ken Reed again and his beautiful Rivieras. Hopefully, there will be a good turn out of Rivieras.
Bill
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I was in touch with Steve Lorenzen about finding a couple of things for me. In the conversation it came out that he had purchased Larry Daisy's 65 Riviera and Riviera trailer. I had seen Larry, his car and trailer in 2014 when I attended my first ROA Meet in Colorado Springs. That was a nice set up. He said he is in the process of getting it ready to bring to the meet in Kalamazoo.
Bill
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31 minutes ago, Zimm63 said:
Test it with a hand vacuum pump to be sure its the problem. NOS ones do show up on ebay occasionally. Search using the part number, and save the search. Not an immediate solution, but thats how I was able to replace mine.
I did keep the old one to see if I could take it apart. Its in my get to it stack, behind the fairly constant stream of broken stuff that has to be dealt with when you have multiple old cars and motorcycles.
I took your advice and tested the switch with a hand pump. It appears that the switch is not the problem. At least according to my test. Hooked it up to an extra vacuum actuator that I have and when vacuum is applied the actuator pulls in as it should and holds. I will try bypassing the switch as gungeey suggested to see what happens as well.
Bill
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52 minutes ago, Jim Cannon said:
Bill-
I have had good luck with the "vacuum switches", as Buick called them, by giving a shot of silicon spray into the nipple and then actuating the switch with your fingers repeatedly. That gets them moving and sealing again. You may need to spray again in a year, but they will work.
Hi Jim,
Thanks for that. I did try that as I had seen your post about doing this several years ago. So far, no luck. I did pull one off of one of my parts cars. I sprayed that with silicone as well. That one did not do the trick either. This was off of a pretty toasty car though. I will try to find yet one more to see if this is actually the problem. Is there a way to test the switch in or out of the car?
Bill
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Should have asked this first. Is there any way to test the switch to see if it is good? AC stopped working this spring. Hoses are newer and in the right spots. The vacuum diaphragm on the firewall is functioning. Next stop the vacuum switch. I know this is a tough find but, I am looking for the #1 Vaccum switch which is activated by the the AC Cool Control lever. I believe that the number for this is: 1164645. Please correct me if I am wrong on the number. Good used or NOS is fine. High 80's for the past week and looking to continue. Not essential but, it would be nice to have working AC once in awhile. PM me if you can help me out. Thanks.
Bill
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Thanks Jyrki. Enjoy.
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Wheel found . Thanks Bob.
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14 hours ago, XframeFX said:
Looks good Bill! Your new rollers are making me a little apprehensive switching from 30 year 3/4" WSWs I took for granted and awaiting 1.4" WSWs arriving soon. Hmmm . . .
I do not have Turbine wheels. So, I won't post my '63 White Riviera with Tri-Shield Wire Hubcaps. Anyone care to swap my 'caps for nice Turbines? LOL.
The M-9 Option wasn't as expensive as wire 'caps in '64. Go figure.
Probably looks something like this.
Bill
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Thanks to the Turbinator supplying me with the shorter studs all of my Turbines are on. On to the next project!
Bill
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39 minutes ago, Chasander said:
Bill you don’t happen to have a Dip stick for our Dynaflow do you
PM sent.
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24 minutes ago, Chasander said:
Bill did you check with riviera bob? He’s going to K zoo
10 minutes ago, EmTee said:aka: @Turbinator?
Chuck,
I have not contacted "Riviera Bob". I had been in contact with him about something else earlier and knew he was going to Kalamazoo. I have not seen him nor you since the BCA Meet in Waukesha. Looking forward to seeing you both.
Just to set the record straight, "Riviera Bob" is a vendor from Flint, MI. The Turbinator's alias is "Red Riviera Bob" (among others I can't print here).
Since posting on Friday I have been in negotiations with Turbinator on what seems to be the last 6" steel wheel in existence. He assures me he has used the latest "True Spin" technology and the wheel has been given "DMC Certification" (Dead Man's Curve).
Both terms: "True Spin" and "DMC Certification" are copyrighted and are the sole property of Turbinator Industries Inc.
Bill
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Anyone? Bueller?
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On 5/25/2023 at 4:51 AM, Chasander said:
The number of mounting holes is different, unless you drilled extra holes to get more leg room. (As I did)
4 mounting holes on the left and 2 on the right is all I have ever seen on the driver's seat. That does not mean there aren't other configurations out there. Dean's mounting brackets appear to be the same as mine. I reversed the U brackets on the front of the driver's seat to move the seat further back to get more leg room. I did not have to drill any holes on either side as the extra holes lined up perfectly. I did have to enlarge the extra hole slightly on the right side so the bolt would go through.
Bill
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Here is the piece Tom is talking about.
Bill
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41 minutes ago, Chasander said:
My seat appears to be more like Deanoko s. Bill what month was your car built? I’d like to do some comparing in K zoo.
8 hours ago, Deanoko said:I was talking about the # of bolts holding the seat to the floor pan, not the # of trim attachment points. However, now that I see this photo, it looks to be the same except for the height of the rear anchors. To me they still look a lot shorter.
My car was built in May of 1963. Here is a shot of the bottom of my seat. No reason my seat would be any different than any of the 1963-1965 power seats. The mounting bases are the same. They appear taller when out of the car as they are not in the valley of the floor pan and bolted down into the carpet. The 3rd and 4th pictures I posted earlier are of the passenger seat. Looks the same to me.
Bill
SOLD-Set of 4 Flip Buckle Seat Belts With Retractors
in Buick Riviera
Posted · Edited by Riviera63 (see edit history)
For sale is a set of 4 flip buckle seat belts that I just removed from my 1963 Riviera along with 2 retractors. They are in excellent condition. 2 of the belts are 74" and 2 of the belts are 60". When I first got my car the only belts I could find were the 74" version. I bought 4 of those at that time. A couple of years later the the 60" were available. I bought 2 of the 60" to use in front and left the 74" belts in the rear. The retractors are exact reproductions of retractors used on many GM makes and models in the mid 60's.
PM me if you are interested. I would be happy to bring them to Kalamazoo if that would save on shipping for someone.
Bill