Riviera63
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Posts posted by Riviera63
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There are 2 brackets that hold the outer trim piece in place. Those 2 brackets mount between the bottom of the seat and the top of the seat rails. They are 2 separate pieces and not part of the seat itself. They were often discarded if the trim broke and/or the seat was taken apart. The bracket you have pictured holds the inner trim piece in place and is part of the seat rail. There is another bracket toward the front on the left which is part of the seat rail that also holds the front of this inner trim piece. The trim piece that you have pictured appears to me to be the outer left trim piece which would be held in place by those 2 brackets that mount between the seat bottom and top of the seat rails. There are 6 total trim pieces that go on these seats. 2 for the passenger seat. Four on the driver's seat, 2 on the left side and 2 on the right side. I can't do it right now but, I have pictures of all the pieces, brackets and where they go.
Bill
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16 minutes ago, Deanoko said:
Thanks to both of you guys! Clears up this mystery. The seat in the photos has a lot higher base mounting than mine do. What are they in?
I see the joystick here is on the seat. Mine is on the deluxe trim door panel. I am missing the "uppers" . Probably broken off long ago. I can see the fastener holes but didn't know what went there.
Mine is a 63. The base should be the same as yours. The pictures were taken with the seat in different raised positions. The last 2 pictures are of the trim on the passenger seat. Attached is a picture of the seat all the way down. In that position you can only see the left outer trim piece. The outer trim piece is held on by separate brackets than the inner piece.
Bill
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25 minutes ago, Deanoko said:
'64 here, but probably the same for other years:
There are little sheet metal screws that hold the plastic trims on the bottoms of the bucket seats, hiding the 4 way electric track hardware. I have 1 original(?) screw that threads readily into the metal frame of the seat. It looks like a typical pan head phillips #6 sheet metal screw, BUT the thread pitch is less than what I've found at the hardware store. Those don't work and #8s are too big. Am I crazy, or is this actually a machine screw hole that the one sheet metal screw I have just happens to also thread into? TIA!
As Tom said they are held in place by plastic push pins. They are used on all of the trim pieces except one on the right side of the driver's seat. That one is held in by a screw. I have attached some pictures showing these on my seats. You can find these push pins at various parts stores. Used on a lot of cars for interior pieces. Do not get them too long, at least for the ones on the outer trim piece. If they are too long they will catch/rub on the inner trim piece. Ask me how I know. See first picture.
Bill
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Set of spark plug wires and distributor cap. Free for shipping. Both items came off of my car. Spark plug wires were great and nothing wrong with them. Wires are even numbered for you. I bought a set of 8mm from Tom T. so these are expendable. Also a NAPA distributor cap and nothing wrong with it. I had Tom T. build me a distributor so I just put a new cap on when that was installed. PM me if interested.
Bill
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Here is a shot of the repro cover. The originals had a top portion which was hinged to the cover. These usually broke at the hinge and were discarded. The reproduction does not have a top portion. I fabricated mine from the side of a plastic weed killer jug which has a thickness similar to the cover. I sanded the piece so the paint would stick and not flake off.
Bill
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I just replaced my 1963 Heater/AC control cover. My old cover is free, just pay shipping. I have had to do some repairs through the years but, once it is in place it looks good. I found some clips and hex screws to send along for fastening the 2 halves together.
If you are looking for one in better shape, Turbinator and Gene G. sell a very nice reproduction.
PM me if interested.
Bill
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Here is his contact info.
Bill
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10 hours ago, RivNut said:
Bill,
If you cannot find a 63/64 6” wheel, and you find a 65 or later 6” wheel, you can have the center machined to the 63/64 diameter.
Ed,
Thanks for that. I need the holes for the turbines. Do the wheels after 65 have these?
Bill
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I am looking for a 6" steel wheel for my 1963 Riviera. Found out yesterday that one of my wheels was 5 1/2" rather than the 6" I thought they all were. Would like a nice, straight wheel. Light surface rust OK but, no pitting. Please PM me if you have one you would like to sell. Thanks.
Bill
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17 hours ago, EmTee said:
Can you swap the 5 1/2" wheel with the spare (assuming it is 6")?
That is a good thought. I had that thought as well. If I remember correctly that rim was put in the spare position because it had a very slight wobble. It probably could have been mounted and used without a problem but, since I had 4 other good 6" rims (or so I thought) why chance it. I have 4 shorter studs on the way. I still may try to see if I can scare up a good 6" rim.
Bill
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I am 3/4 of the way done and it will stay that way for awhile. Much to my surprise one of my rims was a 5 1/2" rim, so the turbine will not fit. How that happened I have no clue. I specifically wanted, searched and found what I thought were all 6" rims. Apparently, I did not check them all and assumed all that I bought were 6". We all know what happens when we do that. I have a decision to make as to just getting the shorter studs for the cover or source another 6" rim.
Bill
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14 minutes ago, RivNut said:
@Riviera63 What width are your white sidewals?
3/4"
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New tires were mounted on Wednesday and got the first 2 Turbines mounted today. So far so good.
Bill
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3 hours ago, 65VerdeGS said:
I have a '65 Riviera.
The Shop Manual states that the Propeller shaft slip spline is to be lubricated every 12,000 miles, with "Lithium EP Grease".
This slip spline is accessed via a hole in the frame in the area where the "X" members of the frame intersect.
Fig 1-2 on page 1.3 "Maintenance" of the Shop Manual says "Remove plug, lubricate and replace plug".
On my car there is no 'plug', which has gone missing.
When I took the car in for service recently the mechanic said he couldn't lube the slip spline because he didn't have the necessary fitting for his grease gun.
So, what sort of fitting is needed to lubricate the slip spline? Is this fitting something rare, or easily obtained?
I guess I'll have to buy the fitting and lend it to the shop, or crawl under the car myself and apply the lube.
What happens if the slip spline runs dry of lube? What symptoms would develop? Do you get a noise setting up? What does this noise sound like?
My shop did the one on my 1963. They used the needle adaptor as JZRIV pointed out.
Bill
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UPDATED
I have purchased two 1963 Rivieras and an assortment of miscellaneous parts. I will list some things here but, if there is something specific you are looking for PM me and I will see if I have what you are looking for. Thanks.
1.) 10 very nice right hand thread lug nuts
3.) Parking brake adjustment bracket and parking brake spring pin
4.) 2-1963 & 1964(?) standard interior rear quarter panel stainless trim pieces, enough for one side, can be used on either side
54.) 1965 console shifter bezel and shifter guide
59.) 1965 lower front bumper support bar
68.) Console heater/AC air spring hose clamps
89.) Suction Throttle Valve bracket with attaching hardware
95.) 1965 front bumper filler panel/lower tie panel
105.) Blower motor-AC car-tested working
112.) 1965 Headlight Switch
118.) Driver's door long stainless beltline trim molding
119.) Upper cowl panel
122.) SOLD-AC receiver/dehydrator brackets, clamps and attaching hardware
134.) Blower motor to firewall ground wire
136.) SOLD-1963 dash pad defroster grill with attaching hardware
138.) 1965 speedometer cable with housing and connectors
141.) Master cylinder with screw on cap
144.) Air distribution duct that connects to evaporator
146.) 1965 Brake booster
148.) Throttle operating lever with throttle return spring
155.) Passenger's door long stainless beltline trim molding
156.) Heater box with gasket
161.) Power Steering gear box
167.) 1963 left side dash access panel-have 2
171.) SOLD-1963-1965 middle lower rear seat filler panel
172.) Pair very nice 1963-1965 upper back seat side filler panels
173.) SOLD-Rear quarter window leading edge weatherstrip stainless trim molding-will fit either side
174.) 1963-1965 deluxe interior door armrest pads-have 2-will fit either side
177.) Passenger side front console kick panel extension
178.) Horn bracket with attaching hardware-for horn(s) behind grill
180.) Passenger deluxe interior armrest power window switch bezel
183.) 1963 fuse box bracket
186.) Steering column support brackets
188.) 1965 trunk wiring harness
193.) 1963-1964 radio knobs
194.) SOLD-1963-1964 headlight switch knob, stem and bezels
198.) SOLD-Passenger vent window beltline stainless trim molding
199.) SOLD-Driver vent window beltline stainless trim molding
202.) 1963-1964 Vacuum trunk release actuator-tested-working
203.) SOLD-1963-1965 4-way power seat-under seat wire harness-deluxe interior
209.) SOLD-1963 Glovebox door script
212.) 1963 heater/AC switch dash cover plate
216.) Driver's side lower dash trim
218.) Front seat inner side chrome trim pieces
220.) Console side carpet aluminum trim pieces-passenger and driver
221.) Driver's side 2 piece dash face aluminum-non AC car
223.) Passenger side upper dash trim
224.) Passenger side lower dash trim
226.) Console courtesy light mounting brackets and attaching hardware
228.) Trunk lid hinge bolts
230.) Dash clock mounting bracket
231.) Firewall vacuum diaphragm mounting bracket and attaching hardware
232.) Console/sail panel courtesy light bezels-have 2 pairs
233.) Pair vent window cranks, plastic washers and attaching clips
234.) Deluxe interior passenger's side armrest end caps with attaching screws
236.) Driver's side upper dash trim
240.) Passenger seat stop lanyard and hardware
246.) SOLD-1963 firewall to trunk ribbon wire harness-tested
248.) 4-way power seat slave track with 4 delrin glides
249.) Miscellaneous 4-way power seat pieces
250.) Set of 4 stainless headlight retainer rings
252.) Trunk lid catch with attaching hardware
256.) Passenger outside A-pillar stainless trim molding
257.) Driver's outside A-pillar stainless trim molding
261.) Power steering pump brackets
266.) SOLD-Speedometer speed minder knob
272.) Rear console courtesy light assembly
273.) 1963 1964 gauge cluster face with lenses
275.) Used AC fuel pumps-have 2
280.) 1965 headlight switch complete with bezel, stem and knob
284.) Delco Remy alternator 1100668 date code 4 A 16
285.) Delco Remy alternator 1100700 date code 8 M 18
286.) 1964 tail light lens center emblem-have 2
288.) SOLD-1963 tail light lens center emblem
290.) Door power window wiring conduit
291.) Pair 1963 sun visor boards
293.) Left outside lower back window trim molding
294.) Right outside lower back window trim molding
295.) Left outside back window side & top trim molding
296.) 1963 front console ash tray
297.) Parking brake assembly with switch
301.) SOLD-Console compartment lid with good black vinyl
302.) SOLD-Driver's side rear wheel opening molding
303.) Passenger side front wheel opening molding
304.) SOLD-1965 temperature & defroster cables
306.) SOLD-1963 air control cable
309.) 1963 front console ashtray assembly
310.) Interior door handle opening mechanism-driver's side door rear or passenger door front
311.) SOLD-Driver's side rear quarter trim molding
312.) 1963 Neutral safety switch
313.) SOLD-4-note horn wiring harness with ground wire
314.) Spark plug wire loom bracket
315.) Console shifter dust shield
316.) SOLD-65-66 Heater control valve bracket
317.) SOLD-63-64 Dash cluster circuit board
318.) SOLD-Passenger RH front power window motor
319.) Driver's LH front power window motor
320.) Passenger rear power window regulator
321.) Passenger rear power window motor
322.) SOLD-Passenger manual vent window regulator
323.) SOLD-Driver manual vent window regulator
324.) Door opener mechanism passenger rear (deluxe interior)/driver front (deluxe and standard interior)
325.) Tail light housings passenger and driver's side
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10 hours ago, RivNut said:
@Riviera63 I like the color! The wrinkle finish looks good as well. Perhaps you could write up a tutorial om your process and products. I’d be willing to follow it on a spare 63 breather that I have.
Ed,
I did not refurbish my air cleaner. I bought a refurbished air cleaner from Muscle Car Air Cleaners. It was cheaper for me to buy one refurbished outright and sell my old one than to send in mine and have it refurbished. The person to contact at Muscle Car Air Cleaners is: Niels Jensen. He was very accommodating and helpful. He may be able to help out with the process and paints used. Attached is another picture showing the painted interior of my air cleaner. Also attached is a "before" picture of the air cleaner I purchased. They work magic.
Bill
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14 hours ago, RivNut said:
That will give you some wrinkle but not up to factory specs. It’s also too red for the factory appearance.
Ed,
I think I will disagree with that one. I bought a refurbished air cleaner from Muscle Car Air Cleaners 2 years ago. Last year I notice a small chip on my air cleaner. I asked them what they used to redo my air cleaner. He said to use VHT SP204 Red wrinkle. I ordered that can and touched it up. Perfect match. Here are shots of the air cleaner that I bought. You be the judge but, it looks pretty good to me. Also for those redoing their air cleaners, the inside is not wrinkle it is a glossy finish. Look at their website they do some pretty nice work. https://musclecaraircleaners.com/
Bill
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1 hour ago, Jim Cannon said:
I had the webbing on my seat belts replaced by Snake-Oyl. They send me some sample colors and I chose the best match to the original. (Some of the webbing was not exposed to sun or dirt stains.)
When the redone belts showed up here, the webbing was the wrong color. 🤪 Wrong shade of tan/brown/gold. As if the QC person was colorblind. I called them and sent a photo.
I sent them back, they redid them all, and sent them back to me. Now Perfect!
I lost some time, but other than that, no big deal.
Hi Jim,
Thanks for that. I am hoping that they show the same courtesy here. It looks as if the same person is still checking for color correctness. As Ron said, "black is black". I paid an extra premium for them to give me the same webbing as the original belts had. It was not cheap. It was 40% of the cost of having the belts done just for that. They sent me a photo showing the original webbing as compared to the other webbing they use. The top sample in the picture is the original style. No problem with the correct color in those samples. It is a head scratcher that they aren't more observant before assembling and shipping.
Bill
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I knew I had seen that color before.
Bill
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8 minutes ago, Turbinator said:
My guess is the black dye in the fabric is not as dark as you would like.
EZ fix. Send them back and tell them to dye black. Or dye them yourself.
The texture on the seat belt ???? My worn buckles may or may not have the texture.
Turbinator
Yes, they are supposed to be black not dark green. They most certainly are going back. Of course they are only open M-T so I will have a wait before I can discuss this with anyone. More wasted time.
The texture on the seat belts is correct for Buick in 1963.
Bill
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For the past several weeks I have been anxiously awaiting the arrival of my refurbished original 1963 seat belts. Today was the day they arrived. It was just like Christmas morning. I had sent in 7 1/2 sets of 63 belts. They inspect, disassemble and use the combination of parts that would give me the best set of 4. I was very happy with the job done on the buckles, the hold downs, male ends and the correct tags for my car's build date. There is the joy. I will leave it to you to figure out where the disappointment is. The 2nd to the last picture is of the new belts as compared to the old, faded webs and the last shot is the new belts compared to what is in my car now. To say the least I was crushed after waiting so long.
Bill
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PM sent.
Nitnoid screw question 1st gen seat trim
in Buick Riviera
Posted
Mounts are the same also. My seat mounts appear higher in the photos because it is out of the car and sitting on a flat card table. When in the car it appears the same as yours. If you only have 2 bolt holes in the rear the top bracket in the rear that goes between the seat bottom and the top of the seat track is gone. There are 7 attaching points on the left side. 4 in the rear, 1 about 2/3 of the way towards the front of the seat and 2 at the front. 4 of the 7 are up high so to speak to hold the outer trim piece and 3 of them are low so to speak to hold the inner left trim piece. The picture you posted shows the rear lower bracket which holds the left, inner piece. The inner trim piece does not move. The outer trim piece moves up and down with the seat. I do not have access to the computer right now that has pictures of all of the brackets, trim pieces and their location. Will dig them out tomorrow.