Riviera63
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Posts posted by Riviera63
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Hi Ed
I found that if you soak the fan blower assembly a few days in paint thinner it will come out like new. All the rust and dried dirt just fell off mine. Thanks again for your wealth of Riv information.
Regards,
Glenn McMahon
#12929
Glenn,
I have my blower motor out right now. What type did you use? Mineral spirits, lacquer thinner or something else? Thanks.
Bill
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I agree with Ed and Tom. I think this seems to be a pretty reasonable price for a pretty nice car if it is nearly as nice as it shows in the pictures. I can honestly say that if I was looking now that car would be given serious consideration. I know that I already have a lot more money in my car than what this one is going for and as Ed said, without so much work. That being said, it is a labor of love and I know up front that I will spend much more money on my car than I will ever hope to get out of it.
Bill
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Lens to housing.
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I have had my 1963 Riviera for about a year and a half. I have been busy upgrading parts or replacing parts which were used that are not correct for 1963. In most cases these parts are still very serviceable and I would like to see them go to a good home. I am thinking that they would be very good for a daily driver or good enough to use until you find that perfect part. I have a hard time trashing what I believe to be usable parts. I would entertain offers plus S & H. I am going to be in Saint Charles and would be happy to bring parts there. Please PM me if you are interested with your e-mail and I can shoot some pictures to you with what I hope is an accurate description of the part(s). Thanks.
I have the following: 2-15X6 large hole steel wheels, sandblasted and powder coated black(some inside scratches from wheel cover, nice, $60.00 each, which is what I paid. I only needed 2 but had to buy 4), Battery hold down retainer, Front seat belts (not OEM), 1963 outside rearview mirror (small chip outer edge of glass, chrome good), good, working 1963 power brake master cylinder with brake switch-deep push rod hole(just came off my car), new OPGI 63-64 tail light lens gaskets( mine were still good), 64-66? inside day/night mirror,(some silvering missing around edge, chrome good), 65-66 turn signal and tilt wheel levers-black, 65-66? kick panel vents (no rust), 63-64 standard armrest bases (sprayed with chrome paint on sides), pair of inside door handles(fair), 1965 vent handle(nice), passenger side front wheel opening molding(scratches-couple of minor dings), driver's side rear wheel opening molding(chrome decent, one dent that I think could be fixed), rear quarter spear( vertical dent, might be salvageable), Chrome power brake and park pedal chrome strips, gas pedal chrome, set of 4 black floor mats( look to be original, driver's mat has a tear but all in all a decent set), new AC Delco CV769C PCV valve, pair of 63-64 tail light bezels( some pitting, no rust, chrome still shines up nicely, driver's side back-up light bezel( pitted in the usual spot, otherwise chrome decent, still holds shine).
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Chuck, I had the same thing happen to me when I switched to steel wheels. Part of the problem was the powder coating on the edge of the center hub. I don't know if this is the case with you but, when they balanced my wheels they used tape weights on the back inner side of the rim and the weights were binding against the edge of the brake drum. I had them rebalance with regular weights on the back, outer edge of the rim and the problem was solved. Bill
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Thanks Jim, I will keep that in mind. That sounds like a great project for this coming winter.
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I did put the ground wire from the seat frame to the mounting bolt. The seat is back in, grounded and the switch is back in right side up as it had been in upside down. Everything works as it should. Happy to have that one done.
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I found the problem. The connector supplying power to the seat had separated slightly. It was not apparent as someone had taped over it in the past. I believe they had taped it to stay connected when the seat was all the way back. I think this was happening as the wires were tangled up underneath the seat and did not give enough play for seat travel. I removed the seat from the seat base to do some clean up. There was no ground wire. The diagram I have shows the ground wire running from the bottom of the actual seat frame to the base that bolts into the floor. I did find a hole on the seat base which accepts a screw. Ed had mentioned that the ground wire goes from the motor to the base. Where would it connect on the motor? Also I noticed the wire bundle that goes to the seat switch has a metal sleeve taped to it that has a tab and a hole that that looks as if it had a screw going through it to attach somewhere. The diagram shows this attaching somewhere on the seat bottom. I can't find an area that has a slot and hole that lines up with the tab and holes on the sleeve. Is it held on by a screw or is it a nut and bolt? Is it even worth worrying about? Suggestions? Thanks. Bill
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Thanks for the replies. The electric windows work. There is no power at the switch. Will check other places as suggested. Best to remove seat to check these? Seems to be a tight fit to reach under and disconnect anything. Thanks. Bill
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The power seat on my 1963 Riviera just quit working. The power seat has always worked fine. I had just adjusted it back and forth several times a few days ago when doing some interior work , vacuuming, etc.. This morning we went to pick the car up at the shop where we had some minor work done. My wife was going to drive the car home and when she went to adjust the seat nothing happened. There is no movement in any direction. When the switch is moved there is no noise of any kind. No clicks, no motor noise, nothing. I would appreciate any guidance with what the problem might be or a place to start with troubleshooting. Thanks. Bill
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Hi, I had my rear end fluid changed last summer and they had to use a siphon through the fill hole to remove the old fluid.
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Jan, I got my car hooked up and back together. I'm sure that you will discover this on your own. As we know the parking lights work with the headlights on but, I discovered that they will come on in the parking light position as they originally did also. Bill
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Ed,
I found the problem. After checking everything else I traced the wire back to the firewall. This is where I learned something. I am new to this car. I always had Pontiacs. My 1963 Lemans convertible had the wires go through the firewall uninterrupted. They did not plug in. I found the plug with the parking light wire and found that it was not plugged in solidly and as a result the terminal for that wire was corroded. So I sprayed all of the terminals with radio tuner cleaner, took an emery board to them, dried the plug, plugged it in and success! Thanks for the help.
Bill
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Jan, I'm glad it worked out for you. I solved my problem also and it was not the headlight switch. Now that I have everything apart I will switch to the other terminal as well Bill
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Jan, I just accessed mine yesterday. I am going to try the switching of the wires on the switch as my front parking lights do not come on when the switch is pulled to the parking light position. I will try this first instead of buying a new switch. I think the parking lights on with the headlights on will be cool. Open the ashtray/lighter door in the console.There are 3 screws holding the assembly in, remove the screws. That whole assembly will remove and the headlight switch is right there. Remove the shaft using the pushpin thingy. You then remove the switch escutcheon. I did not have the switch tool so I used a putty knife to turn it. Once the switch is released from the escutcheon the switch drops down for easy access through the opening left by the ashtray assembly. I hope this helps. Bill
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Ed,
I have other feelers out as well and will let you know what I find out.
Bill
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Hi Ed,
Thanks for the input. I'm sorry if I am being dense here. Remove the bulb or leave the bulb in, stick the wire in between the bulb and socket and then ground? Any type of wire? Thanks.
Bill
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I recently removed the front bumpers from my Riviera to put on rechromed ones. I had purchased new grommets and insulators from CARS Inc. BG635 (OPGI # BR00889) and BI635. After taking off my bumpers I found differences between what was taken off my car, the new replacements and what is pictured in my chassis manual. The insulator I removed from my car between the bumper and the outer fender was U shaped like what is pictured for the 1965. The BI635 replacement was U shaped also but, twice as thick as the one removed from my car. The insulator pictured in my chassis manual is completely round. The insulator removed from the inner fender which holds the steel sleeve for the fender bolt was round as pictured as in the chassis manual. What I had thought was its replacement is a grommet twice as thick as what was taken off of the car. The metal bolt sleeve does fit this grommet. This grommet looks as if it would fit the hole in the fender that the bolt goes through or it could work as the replacement for the grommet in the lower front fender where the bottom bumper guard bolt goes through. Any clarification of what is correct and what goes where would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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I recently removed my front parking light/turn signal assemblies for cleaning and detailing. Before removing them completely, I tried the parking lights and noticed that the rear taillights and license plate light were illuminated while none of the front parking lights lit up. The turn signals worked fine. After cleaning and detailing the assemblies I replaced all of the bulbs and cleaned the terminals on all of the plugs. After installation I retried the parking lights with the same result. I find it odd that the rear works and none of the front parking lights work. Is there something going on that is a quirk for the Riviera or will I just need to go back to basic electrical troubleshooting? Any tips or help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Help finding Silver Engine Paint Code for 63 Riviera
in Buick Riviera
Posted
I had purchased the Plastikote #207 paint when I had first purchased my car. I never got around to painting the engine until this summer. I have to admit my head was swimming after reading this thread and some others on what paint to use. I went out and tried many other silver/aluminum paints as others had done and rejected them for one reason or another. I even called CARS to get both types of their silver engine paint and was told they did not have either in stock and I got the impression that they would not have any in the near future if at all. I decided to just go ahead with the #207 that I had. Having painted other engines on other cars I was concerned with burn-off on the hotter areas. What I ended up using on the manifolds and any other hot areas was Rust-oleum High Heat Ultra Silver grill paint. It has a temp rating of 1200 degrees.It is a perfect match to the #207 and dries quickly. I was happy with the results. I drove my car down to the ROA Convention which is about a 550 mile round trip. (with air on at times) Since then I have driven another 200 miles. So far no discoloration or burn-off. I wanted to share this with others as this was a cheap, simple solution for engine paint. I hope this does not further muddy the engine paint waters. Bill