Riviera63
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Posts posted by Riviera63
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The earlier federal mandate made seat belts mandatory in the front only. The later mandate for cars manufactured after January 1,1968 expanded this to include the rear and what type of belts, shoulder harnesses, etc. This is stated in the U.S. Department of Transportation Uniform Vehicle Code section 12-412.
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Hi,
I am looking for a source for vacuum hose to install a remote trunk release in my car. I have not had good luck at my local auto parts stores for smaller diameter hoses. The manual calls for 1/10" ID hose X 20 feet 4 inches long. I have the old hose which was with the trunk release I had purchased. I confirmed that it is 1/10" ID with 3/10" OD but, the original piece is only 17 feet 6 inches. Maybe this is not the whole piece? Does anyone have a good source for this size hose? Has anyone done this that can remember how much hose they actually used? I assume that 25 feet would be more than enough. Are there any other places where this size hose is used? Thanks for any help.
Bill
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Hi Ed,
Below are two links. The first one describes the custom versus deluxe but, there is some question as to whether the deluxe buckle is plain or has a Fischer Body emblem. The second link clarifies that the deluxe buckle was plain. Go to the 3rd page towards the bottom, Eric's.64.Superwildcat discusses his 64 seat belt code and has a picture of the deluxe belt that was in his 64.
http://forums.aaca.org/topic/230047-1963-riviera-help/page-3?hl=+seat+belt +retractors
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From what I have read on other threads that dealt with seat belts/seat belt retractors there was also a "deluxe" belt for 1964 that had a plain non-chrome buckle. The chrome buckles were labeled as "custom" belts.
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Hi Ed,
I understand that these are actually 64 belts. It's one of those things where I like the design/look better than maybe not being absolutely correct. My car was manufactured without seatbelts. Isn't it possible these could be technically correct as an owner of a non-seat belt 63 comes in later and has seat belts installed, wouldn't these have been the belts installed? Thanks.
Bill
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Hi,
I am looking to buy a pair of nice male seat belt ends for the Brownline/Eberhart 500 series seat belts that were used in the 1963/1964, preferably in black. Please PM me if you have some you would like to sell. I have attached pictures of what I need. Thanks.
Bill
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Glove box liner is gone.
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Ed,
When you say "vacuum switch" and I say "check valve" are we talking about the same thing? See attached diagram. Thanks.
Bill
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Thanks Ed,
The set up you described is what I could gather from the chassis manual. Hard line to a tee, then a check valve and line to the AC going from the opposite end. Someone along the line did away with this setup on my car for some reason. My current setup has the line that goes to the A/C ( with no check valve) tee off again. Is this line splitting correct? Thanks.
Bill
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Yes, the fitting for his/mine is on the intake in front of the carb.
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Thanks Don. That second picture cleared up a question I had about the valve cover clip that holds the line in place. Bill
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Trunk carpet is spoken for.
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Hi,
I am replacing my w/AC glove box liner and the carpet in the trunk of my 1963 Riviera. The glove box liner is a little beat up but, is whole and still usable. The lining in my trunk is a black carpet-like material. It is in very good condition and also has a matching spare tire cover. Free to anyone who can use them, just pay for the shipping. PM me if interested. Thanks.
Bill
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HI,
Now that the car is put away for the winter I have been thinking of projects to get me through the cold months ahead and to have things in place for next summer's projects. One thing I have wanted to address is the vacuum line from my brake booster to the manifold. Currently on my car I have a black rubber line that runs to a "T" that connects to the manifold. A line then runs from that "T" to a reducer that has a line that runs to another "T" and branches off from there. I know that the vacuum line from the booster should be a combination of a metal line from the manifold to a black rubber line that connects to the booster. I know the current vacuum line set up on my car is not correct but, I am not sure what the correct routing should be. I have looked in the Service Manual and have a general idea of how it should go. Does anyone have an actual picture of a correct vacuum arrangement or a good verbal description of that arrangement that they could share with me? It looks as if I would need the metal vacuum line, a brass fitting for the manifold and a check valve that would fit in the other end of the brass fitting for to branch off to other vacuum lines. Other than various black vacuum lines are there any other parts I would need to obtain or anything else I need to consider to get it back to correct? I have attached pictures showing my current set up. Any pictures/help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Bill
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Rich,
I have read many articles on what to do to put your car away for the winter. One of the tips that I picked up was one to prevent flat spots on the tires. Before you put your car away pump your tires up to 45-50 lbs. I have been doing this for 12 years now and my Riviera is the second car I have done this to and have not had any tire issues from sitting over the winter. I had to store my 1963 Pontiac Lemans convertible for a couple of winters under a car port with a flagstone floor. I bought 2-10 X 20 tarps. I laid one tarp an the ground and drove the car onto that I put my car cover on and then covered the car with the other tarp and basically wrapped the car up like a big Christmas present, using twine to secure the tarps. I put moth balls in zip lock bags with holes punched in them in the trunk, the passenger compartment and the engine compartment to keep out the critters. I live in central Wisconsin and the winters get pretty nasty. When spring came around I unwrapped the car and it was always safe, sound and dry. If you would do this where you are a desiccant may be a good idea also.
Bill
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Hi,
Another one you might consider is Rustoleum Metallic Matte Silver, # 7278830. The interior headliner and trim on my 63 is silver. I used this on the headliner trim when I replaced my headliner. I also used this same paint to redo the silver areas on my grill. I was happy with the results both times. My console is silver and I think it will make a good match if I ever repaint that. I believe I just picked it up at the local hardware store or one of the big box places like Lowes. At least this gives you a couple of options. I am going to look into Pete's suggestion as well to see how they compare.
Bill
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I believe that CARS, Inc. has been listening/reading to some of the thoughts presented on this thread. I placed an order today and one of the items I had ordered was on back order. I was told immediately that it was on back order and my order taker then checked to see when the item would be available again. He suggested that I call back in a couple of weeks to check on availability rather than "tie my money up" in case they took longer to become available. It was handled very well. As has been suggested more than once in this thread to be proactive and/or follow up on orders. I whole heartedly agree on this. The original reason that I had called was to check on the return I had made of two items, as I had not yet been credited back. According to the USPS the items had been received by them 3 weeks ago. I asked about the return and it was found quickly in "the other room." They were very apologetic about the delay and took care of it on the spot. When in doubt, follow up is the key.
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Hi,
I am looking for a couple of little things for my 63 Riv. I need one of the metal buttons that hold the side trunk cardboard in place and also need one of the rubber bumpers that go on the inner fender filler panel. If any one has any extras of these that they would like to sell please let me know. Thanks.
Bill
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I finally got the last 2 fasteners off of my fender emblem. I brought out the new emblems to see how they would look. I had somewhat of a disappointment as the new emblems looked great but, did not fit quite right. It seemed as if one of the studs was off a little bit and it just wouldn't fit flush against the sheet metal like the original. It felt as if I would have tried to push in the emblem to fit it flush it would break. I tried both emblems with the same result. I tried starting the insertion at different stud locations with the same result. I would grab the old one and it would just slip right in and fit perfectly. I made the decision that the new emblems were not going to work and that I would have to take a look at the original one again to see if it was able to be cleaned up to an acceptable level. After removing the emblem it was apparent that when the car was painted they did not remove the emblems as I had thought. (It looks like another trip to the body shop next spring.) I don't know what they did when they painted but, they definitely did not remove them before paint was applied. Upon closer inspection it looked as if what I had taken to tarnished, faded chrome was chrome with a fine coating of white paint. I soaked it in paint remover for a few minutes, scrubbed it up good with a wire brush and applied metal polish with fine steel wool. The result was maybe not quite as good as a new one but, I was very happy with the result. I have attached a picture of my original emblem and a picture of one of the new ones for comparison. CARS was less than thrilled that I wanted to return them but, said they would take them back. I was fortunate that I did this now and not next year as I had originally planned so that I was not stuck with 2 emblems that did not fit my car. I still would like input from anyone that has used the barrel/tube nuts to attach emblems as to what style and size they used. Thanks.
Bill
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Winston,
I will consider this option as I like the ability to be able to attach and then remove easily if I have to. Thanks.
Bill
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Pat,
Thanks for the info. One never stops learning about these cars. It appears that these emblems are the one and only things removed when the car was painted. I had figured that the fasteners were not original as I had only seen speed/cut nuts on any trim that I dealt with on my other cars. I suppose the original fasteners got lost after they were removed and they used whatever they could to reattach. I went and checked my emblems and they have the break on the R. I assume they are originals. I checked the repros that I got from CARS and they too have the break which makes me happy as I do like authentic whenever possible.
Bill
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I had ordered new fender emblems from CARS for my 1963 awhile back. Today I decided to remove the old ones so that I could clean them up for possible resale as they are still pretty decent. Removal looked pretty straight forward. I removed the inner fender access panel and attempted to remove the fasteners. Of the 7 studs on the driver's side only 5 had fasteners. Of the 5 I have only been able to remove 3. No matter what I do, I cannot get those last 2 to start unthreading off of the post. I have read several threads on the forum about the fender emblem removal and reattachment. From what I read it seems that they should have been attached with cut nuts. Neither of my emblems are attached with this type. I have attached a picture of the type on mine. Has anyone run into this type of fastener that has a tip on how to get this type off without breaking the stud off? From reading the threads it was suggested to reattach with barrel fasteners/tube nuts. There was a link to the CARS website to these particular fasteners. There are over 30 sizes/styles listed. Has anyone done this that can suggest which style/size they used successfully? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Bill
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Gordon,
When I first got my car it had the same problem. Sooty tail pips and you could see the black up inside the pipes themselves. I was running very rich. I am no mechanic and there are many out there that can pinpoint your problem and give you specifics on how to correct it. I will tell you what I did that seemed to solve the problem. I replaced plugs, wires, distributor, points, condenser and rotor. You should have seen the plugs. Besides being very old, the soot build up was unbelievable. We set timing, plug gaps etc. to the specs in the manual. I also replaced my carb with a stock rebuilt one which was also set to factory specs. I am not sure which item(s) did it, but the problem was solved. I suspect it was the carb. As I said I'm sure you will get more specific ideas from fellow forum members so that you may not have to got to the extreme of a new carb or replacing other items. Being a non-mechanic this worked for me.
Bill
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I really want to get the shop tidied up and squared away before winter. I have tried e-bay and craigslist with no luck. Will let these go for $350.00 plus S & H. This is $210.00 less than I paid. Thanks.
Bill
SOURCE FOR REMOTE TRUNK RELEASE VACUUM HOSE
in Buick Riviera
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Thanks, I will check that out.