Riviera63
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Posts posted by Riviera63
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I took out the complete dash wiring harness which includes the fuse box and ignition connector. I can get you as little or as much as you need. Let me know.
Thanks.
Bill
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12 hours ago, Tsumbody said:
I am looking for a connector my ignition key tumbler? messed up and the release did not work to remove it. After that battle when I unplugged the connector of course someone had previously did something with the wires two female connectors are loose housing is cracked. In my never-ending frustration with wiring, I have heated words with a moron that had no business under the dash. After many hours I think I found what this idiot was doing. A radio and two speakers on the rear deck finding a hot wire and routing the speaker wires under the carpet around dimmer switch, parking brake bracket in and out of wire harness etc. Between the radio and the dash AC vent cracked as well and more. Sorry I need to vent so bad. Okay I'm looking for a connector appreciate any leads, Also if someone has an fuse box mine is a little heat distorted. Overall the harness is not that bad I have repaired splices nicks etc. soldered heat shrinked cloth taped for now. I want to upgrade the alternator to 75 amp not a 1 wire. Do the big 3 upgrade add a fused relay prewired block for car stereo and headlights if needed electric fan? Adding mechanical gauges. I appreciate all those on this site who share there knowledge with guys like me new to Rivieras. If anyone wants to jump in on any of the above please and thank you. Enjoy the holiday all stay safe.
I may have a fuse box and connector. I will go out to my parts cars today and check.
Bill
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45 minutes ago, RivNut said:
Thanks, most of the “toppers” I find are for group 59 batteries. They must be the Camaro, Chevell batteries. Group 27 toppers for many Mopars but they say “Mopar” on the top along with the Chrysler pentastar emblem.
Just to be clear. This not a topper. These are caps with adhesive on them and 2 stickers. You can put them on any size battery.
Bill
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19 minutes ago, PaulMuzz said:
A related question is how does the rear back (where speaker is) of the seat come out? It feels loose on the bottom to come out towards the front but the top part seems secured.
Covered in the Buick Body Service Manual. For some reason I cannot get the first picture to load right side up.
Bill
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32 minutes ago, RivNut said:
👍What brand of battery did you use? Group 27? Looks goog
Thanks Ed. That battery and my previous battery which I also put the caps and stickers on were group 24 batteries. The previous one was from Batteries Plus. This one is from O'Reilly's.
Bill
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22 hours ago, RivNut said:
I’ve seen those but the only Group 27 “toppers” are for Mopar batteries. The good looking Delco toppers are all for z group 59 batteries. Playing to the Chevy crowd. What’s a Riv owner to do?
Here's what I did. Cheap and will work on any battery. Comes with caps and 2 stickers for the battery. He doesn't have any of the caps with the black lettering left but, that can be rectified with a black sharpie.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/312523457203?hash=item48c3d982b3:g:xxEAAOSwu-Fhf96E
Bill
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36 minutes ago, TexRiv_63 said:
I can't believe no one here can answer my question.
I can't believe it myself. I decided to ask someone so that you can get an answer. According to the person I talked to the tilt column is specific to each of the three years. Each year they made changes. I have asked one other person. I will report what what he says as well.
Bill
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2 hours ago, Aaron65 said:
Hi everyone,
I'm looking for the things in my title - I just need the plastic parts themselves. My car is missing both. Thanks for looking!
The rubber trip odometer reset button is available from Cars Inc. Old Buick Parts. Check the Riview for vendors. One of them will have the parking brake paddle.
Bill
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9 hours ago, 71GS said:
Just had my tank out last week and noticed that too. What is in the end of your vent hose @Riviera63?
mine goes down through 2 holes in the rear cross member and is open right at the edge of the rear bumper.
just curious, thanks
This is the way it was when I purchased it. I have no idea if it is right, wrong or indifferent. It appears to be a brass check valve of some sort. I would welcome someone to chime in and describe the correct configuration of this hose as it came from the factory.
Bill
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58 minutes ago, Loren@65GS.com said:
Not that I am interested but you haven't posted a price.
Loren@65GS.com
I understand that. I am flexible on pricing and would discuss that with the interested party.
Bill
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For sale is a set of 4 flip buckle seat belts that I just removed from my 1963 Riviera along with 2 retractors. They are in excellent condition. 2 of the belts are 74" and 2 of the belts are 60". When I first got my car the only belts I could find were the 74" version. I bought 4 of those at that time. A couple of years later the the 60" were available. I bought 2 of the 60" to use in front and left the 74" belts in the rear. The retractors are exact reproductions of retractors used on many GM makes and models in the mid 60's.
PM me if you are interested. I would be happy to bring them to Kalamazoo if that would save on shipping for someone.
Bill
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21 minutes ago, RivNut said:
The Corvette supply houses have this pen style retractor available from the aftermarket.
That is where I got the ones I just removed. They look like the picture I have attached. The ones I just installed were with an original set of 63 belts.
Bill
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17 minutes ago, XframeFX said:
Bill, my theme is original as to the best of 1st Gen. Rivieras as GM offered, not specifically to 1963. Reason why I consider a future ST400 Switch-Pitch to be original.
I find those 1965 retractor Lap Belts the best of 1963-65. Retractors not necessarily my goal.
I have aftermarket web mounted retractors I should install. My original Lap belts from a parts car are black, my interior is red.
Gotcha.
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17 minutes ago, TallJohn said:
This has happened to me about three times in the last five years since my car has been roadworthy. I go to get gas, unscrew the gas cap and woosh, there seems to be pressure in the tank. I had put a new sending unit assembly in the refurbished gas tank prior to installation. Overflow tube attached. Is it as simple as getting a " vented" cap? Pinched overflow/vent hose? Anyone else have this issue? Car runs fine, just kind of strange feeling the pressure come out when taking the cap of. Happens rarely. Thanks folks.
I believe they should be vented. Here is the cap on my 1963.
Bill
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5 hours ago, XframeFX said:
I've given-up my desire for 1965 Riviera retractable Lap Belts in my '63.
Do they need to be retractors like the 65? I had retractors which were reproductions of GM retractors of the era on the seat belts I just took out. I did find a pair of retractors that are what I believe to be correct Buick/GM retractors for 1963. Early on I got tired of the belt flopping out of the car and even sometimes chipping paint.
Bill
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Very happy as the seat belts arrived today. This time black as they were supposed to be. Fronts are in today. Rears are going in on Friday.
Bill
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2 hours ago, Deanoko said:
I recently replaced the voltage regulator on my 64 and ran into a problem with the AMP light not behaving properly. I believe that the light is turned out by it being powered by both the alternator field when the engine is spinning and first by the ignition switch from the battery. There are several resister coils on there back of the regulator which assist in this logic. My old regulator has 3 coil wire resistors on the back, but the new one only had 2.
The symptom was that the alternator light came on bright with the engine running even though I had 13.7vdc at idle and 14.2 off idle at the battery.
Putting the old regulator back on solved the problem.
Look at the difference below. New on left. Pretty subtle.
There are some real light weight VRs out there with no way to see what's going on underneath the riveted covers. This new one was the closest to OEM.
Maybe there is an exact match out there new, but I haven't found it yet.
Another option is the Wells VR715. Duralast also makes a VR715. Many of us have used this. Modern electronic technology. Just drill out the rivets holding the cover on and your old cover is an exact fit. No one will be the wiser. I have had one on my car for several years and no issues. My original Delco 1119515 had only 2 coil resistors.
Bill
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When the Cool lever is in the "off" position the plunger is depressed not allowing vacuum to go through the switch. From what I understand when the Cool lever is in the "on" position it releases the plunger and allows vacuum to flow through the switch to the blue vacuum line which in turn "T's" up with the blue line from switch # 3 and goes to the actuator on the firewall via a black line. The green line from switch #3 also goes to the actuator. Vacuum has to be applied to both ports on the actuator to pull the door open so that air flows to the AC vents.
My first set up which wasn't exactly true to this routing. I redid it with the correct routing as in the car minus switch #3. The same result. Vacuum flowed through the switch and in turn to the actuator.
I also did the way you suggested. The switch allowed vacuum through and registered on the gauge.
What all of this tells me is that switch # 1 is good. I now believe I need to test switch # 3 to see if it is the culprit.
Bill
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I was searching the Buick Farm website and came across a listing for the air filter for our Rivieras. It says they have one in stock. Grab it before it is gone.
https://buickfarm.com/product/element-air-filter-nors/
Bill
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Applied to be accepted for the show and received an invitation. My brother and I will be making the trip. Very excited about this. It will be good to see Ken Reed again and his beautiful Rivieras. Hopefully, there will be a good turn out of Rivieras.
Bill
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I was in touch with Steve Lorenzen about finding a couple of things for me. In the conversation it came out that he had purchased Larry Daisy's 65 Riviera and Riviera trailer. I had seen Larry, his car and trailer in 2014 when I attended my first ROA Meet in Colorado Springs. That was a nice set up. He said he is in the process of getting it ready to bring to the meet in Kalamazoo.
Bill
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31 minutes ago, Zimm63 said:
Test it with a hand vacuum pump to be sure its the problem. NOS ones do show up on ebay occasionally. Search using the part number, and save the search. Not an immediate solution, but thats how I was able to replace mine.
I did keep the old one to see if I could take it apart. Its in my get to it stack, behind the fairly constant stream of broken stuff that has to be dealt with when you have multiple old cars and motorcycles.
I took your advice and tested the switch with a hand pump. It appears that the switch is not the problem. At least according to my test. Hooked it up to an extra vacuum actuator that I have and when vacuum is applied the actuator pulls in as it should and holds. I will try bypassing the switch as gungeey suggested to see what happens as well.
Bill
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52 minutes ago, Jim Cannon said:
Bill-
I have had good luck with the "vacuum switches", as Buick called them, by giving a shot of silicon spray into the nipple and then actuating the switch with your fingers repeatedly. That gets them moving and sealing again. You may need to spray again in a year, but they will work.
Hi Jim,
Thanks for that. I did try that as I had seen your post about doing this several years ago. So far, no luck. I did pull one off of one of my parts cars. I sprayed that with silicone as well. That one did not do the trick either. This was off of a pretty toasty car though. I will try to find yet one more to see if this is actually the problem. Is there a way to test the switch in or out of the car?
Bill
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Should have asked this first. Is there any way to test the switch to see if it is good? AC stopped working this spring. Hoses are newer and in the right spots. The vacuum diaphragm on the firewall is functioning. Next stop the vacuum switch. I know this is a tough find but, I am looking for the #1 Vaccum switch which is activated by the the AC Cool Control lever. I believe that the number for this is: 1164645. Please correct me if I am wrong on the number. Good used or NOS is fine. High 80's for the past week and looking to continue. Not essential but, it would be nice to have working AC once in awhile. PM me if you can help me out. Thanks.
Bill
1964 rear cigarette lighter question
in Buick Riviera
Posted
Another option is to put the USB port in place of the lighter by the ashtray in front. I did this on my car. I had to enlarge the hole slightly which is no big deal in that area and easy to do because you can take the ashtray assembly out. With the ashtray door closed it is hidden.
Bill