Phillip Robinson

This picture is from underneath. The u bolt connects to the clutch, from the clutch pedal. The end circlip is the end of the shaft that holds the pedals. Phil

I am trying to replace the clutch and brake pedal sleeves, but I cannot get pedals off shaft. This is the 1929 chevrolet toured, 6 cylinder, with 4 wheel brakes. Any help appreciated. Phil

Thanks TRININDIAN, always been a help. On this car the rod holding the pedals, has a circlip on the end. Once off, and with a small pulley, I could not move the pedals off. Looking at spares parts, it seems as though a bolt comes out from the bell housing, screws into the shaft, but you cannot see this, and I cannot find instructions on it. Thanks Phil picture shows open ended pin, on end of shaft.

I have a 1929 chevrolet, 6 cylinder, timber wheels. I need to replace the bushes on the clutch pedal and brake pedal. I have the new bushes, but cannot work out how to take the pedals off. Any help appreciated. Phil

I have found a second hand front end from a spare parts place, for these cars, so i am going to put that one on. Includes trailing arm and spindles, so , apart from the spring under the engine, it should be unbolt and rebolt. Here's hoping, but at the minimum i will have a spare to repair. The welding seems good, the engineer has to get the same angle on the i beam, so that option might have to be considered. Phil

Movement in front drivers wheel led me to dismantle and find the I beam hole is elongated and the King Pin shows excess movement, but not in the spindle holes. Thus, replace I beam , or , get it welded and drilled again , by engineer? Also, has anyone had problems getting the I beam off, i.e. front spring that is under motor? Phil

Sent gauge to local shop. Converted gauge to 12 volt. Also found out that different gauges have different ohms, resistance, thus the original was better to use, also to line up with sender ohms. Gauge works. Now, what next part to check on.

I had one that leaked, and i checked it by taking the top off and laying it on a piece if glass, to see if it is flat all way around. It was not flat . I used small clamps with a flat square of steel plate, slowly tightened over a few days, to get shape flat again. Spinneyhill, how did you flatten yours.? WITH Warm water?

Thanks for the reply. I will check the local small ford group. On this motor there is a lever on the fuel pump, which you have to prime before starting, and even when not primed, the fuel comes out on both sides under the carby. I replaced the gasket on the emulsion plate, which seemed to be leaking before, but sounds like i might have to bite the bullet and pull carby off again and see grom under neath where leak is.

Thanks for the help Rusty. I used a 6 volt torch battery on a spare gauge. This worked. Now that i have a 12 volt gauge that works, i realise the tank sender is also not working- gauge shows full- so will pull it out again and clean it, as i saw on another web site. I was confused because the spare from another vehicle was also not working, burnt out wire. Once repaired i then understood how they work. Only 2 wires, plus and minus. Phil

When i start this 1936 ford, a 4 cylinder flat head, i get fuel coming under the carb. This happens as i try to start the car with the crank handle, and before it starts i get fuel coming under the carby. Could it be the float beingtoo high, or am i missing something. This is the small english ford in original condition. Any ideas? Thanks Phil

What is a centre tap ? Phil

Thanks lozrocks. I have a 12 volt replacement , if I can put it into the old gauge. Otherwise I will have to mend the old gauge and follow your instructions. Electrical can be confusing sometimes. Thanks for the update. Phil

Thanks. Will try to do the test. Phil

Was able to get manual from england. Thanks Phil

Checked inside gauge. Was burnt out, with small wire missing. Unwound wire and connected with solder. On 6 volt battery, gauge works with one wire on + and one on _. 12 volt must have burnt wire off. Thanks Phil.

My 29 chev is supported at the manifold, bolted, and under the muffler, same as yours, and again at the body , up under the rear seat, before the pipe then travels down and under the fuel tank. Thus 3 points holding the exhaust/muffler on. Phil

How do i test the gauge to see if working? I do have a 6 volt battery to test on. Phil

Thanks. Will check with local electric group for reducer. Phil

Thanks for the replies. Changing to 12 volt is not my preference, but, the car was already changed over. It was not working when i got the car, so did it work before change? There is 2 wires at the tank- one goes to the earth (body), the other to the dash. The gauge on the dash is earthed to the body, through the bolts, the other wire goes to the ignition ( to get power) . One other wire goes to the tank. Any ideas.?

I have a ford , 4 cylinder 1936 model. Changing from 6 volt to 12 volt, i do not seem to have the gauge working. is the wiring different for the fuel gauge, as i read that this part should have the wire in series?? Any body else changed 6 to 12. Thanks Phil

In a recent article in The filling station, the answer appears to be the bush that the brake activator works, it is possible that the bush is out of round. So, i have just bought a bush for each side, now to put it on. Thanks for diaphragm of brakes. Phil

If r the car is the 1929 chevrolet international, then here is the answer. On the windscreen , above the drivers head , there is a hole. The wiper handle goes through that hole and then you attach the arm, with blade. Try turning right or left, in the rain, with one hand on the wiper and stear the car, let alone change gears. There is no motor. There is no vacuum. Just the hand control. Phil

My right front brake drags. Adjusting down the brakes does not help, as the brake becomes ineffective.The drag is for three quarters of the drum. Changing thr other wheel over has no effect, still the same. The manual talks about greasing the brake pivot point, so maybe this will help. This is the small piece of steel that moves the shoes apart. Anybody workrd on this part? Thanks Phil.

I used an Autolite spark plug386, but found the car ran badly, so i obtained a different plug. The gap for the autolight was .022. From what you are now saying, maybe the gap was wrong. The C86 is supposed to be the original, and the gap for the plugs is .021 to .025. So why suggest .040. Phil