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Phillip Robinson

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Everything posted by Phillip Robinson

  1. Thanks for the help. Just trying to get some compatible ones in australia. Phil
  2. I want to get 6 of these plugs ,and sent to Australia. This company requires a larger order, and the cost of sending is $60 us. . These plugs are the original for the car, but even the ones Tinindian recommended are not available here. Any suggestions, thanks Phil.
  3. As usual , tinindian, you have come up with the detail. Thanks Phil. At the moment i am using the Lodge bbl, which work fine. Recently i overhauled the fuel and soon after, the carby, and then with some new plugs, ac87, started car, but too rough. Old plugs back in, and no problem. Anyway AG 6 will be in soon. Thanks
  4. Thanks for the reply. I was referring to the diaphragm and the one bolt in the middle. After a while, finally separated the washers away from the diaphragm. When i put a new diaphragm in i had a leak at the bottom, so i pulled it apart and tightened up the centre bolt. No more leaks. Car performing fine, although i am now trying to get some AC 86 spark plugs as spares. Thanks Phil
  5. I am looking to get some spark plugs for the 6 cylinder 1929 chevrolet. These plugs are AC 86 , 1/2 inch reach , 7/8 inch hex head , and 3/4 inch across the thread ( or 18 mm). I have tried the ac 87 , but the car idles quite badly. The original is supposed to be the AC 86. Any help appreciated. Phil
  6. Phillip Robinson

    29 chevy

    I can get dimensions if required, as i know someone who has one for the 1929 chevrolet. Phil
  7. The grease caps that appear at the water pump and the rear wheels of the1929 cchevrolet are different. The cap is unscrewed, the grease put in with hand or fingers, then the cap goes on and pushes the grease in to the bearing or shaft. Thus different to all of the above. Phil
  8. I have a 1929 chevrolet and have had few issues in getting parts. Even swap meets are good. Phil
  9. Good luck trinidian. Looks very interesting. Thanks for your help in changing tyres, by the way. Phil
  10. Thanks Tom. The manual says if it is filled too high, then it will leak. Just getting ideas. Phil. Putting the engine back tomorrow.
  11. The manual i have says that the oil will leak into the bell housing, if the oil level is too high. I have undone the filler plug, and some oil has come out. So, maybe now that the oil is st the bottom of the filler hole, then maybe no more oil will leak through. I have the motor out at the moment. Any body had a similar problem?. Question, do I need to replace the oil seal in end of gearbox and can i do it without removing the gearbox? Thanks Phil This is on the ssmall 4 cylinder engine 5 door coupe
  12. 1936 ford 2 door coupe, being a 1200 cc motor, 4 cylinder engine. I needthe spark plug gap, type of plug, points gap, and timing degrees. I do not have a manual as yet . Thanks Phil. i now have the motor out, and find that some oil is seeping into the bell housing. Do i have to take the geabox out to replace some gasket, or oil seal. Phil
  13. I have since taken the head off and replaced the gaskets, reseated the valves and bolted it back without the air cleaner attached. I will have y to make up a different bracket. Phil
  14. Thanks tom. This is an English Ford thathas a small 4 cylinder engine, England was too small an area for big cars, and they did not travel very far. Have the information now and manuals. Phil
  15. I am trying to remove the discs from either side of the main diaphragm? Of the fuel pump. They do not want to separate. This is the main gasket/diaphragm under the 6 small bolts that hold the pump together on this 1929 chev, 6 cylinder. Any ideas. Thanks Phil
  16. Thanks to you Bears Fan. I did get the pin, but it must be for a 1928. Anyway, no problem. I have since sorted out the issues and the brakes work fine now. I am using one of my old pins that I was able to get repaired. Thanks
  17. Thanks. This car is the model cx, a 1936 flat head ford with the 1172 cc motor. I still need spark plug and gap plus points gap. Phil
  18. I have just bought a 1936 ford, 2 door coupe, 4 cylinder, 1172 cc motor. Problem_ Type of spark plug, gap for plug, gap on points ,and timing for the spark. I do not have a manual as yet, hope to get one from somewhere (probably need to ask where), and wonder if someone out there knows this type of FORD _it is a flat head- and can help with some detail. Thanks in advance. I tried the Ford forum, but no help as yet.
  19. 1936 ford 2 door coupe, being a 1200 cc motor, 4 cylinder engine. I needthe spark plug gap, type of plug, points gap, and timing degrees. I do not have a manual as yet . Thanks Phil.
  20. My questions appear as letters down the left of the page. The same for any topics. it therefore is very hard to read. Help
  21. How do you take the air cleaner off the cylinder head. This 1936 has 2 nuts holding it down, but undoing these will affect the head bolts.? Thanks Phil .This is a 1936, maybe 1935, ford flat head 4 ccylinder engine 1 200 cc.
  22. How do you take the air cleaner off the cylinder head. This 1936 has 2 nuts holding it down, but undoing these will affect the head bolts.? Thanks Phil
  23. The bearings will seize if no oil or grease has been near the bearing, especially if it has not been moved. Check to see if oil in diff, and brakes are probably rusted onto the drums. Hope this helps. Phil
  24. Put in a longer rod, as the original was cut short on both sides. This should help with a better adjustment of the rear brakes. Only noticed they were short was because of a weld half way along the shafts. Phil
  25. Thanks for the article. It confirms that I have to adjust the rods. Phil
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