Phillip Robinson

The bearings are not " babbitt" , as the conrods are the newer style, with later bearings. If using a new bearing, it seems like I might have to get it checked it for size,

Thanks for replies. I suppose the question is just a general question for any engine. In this case, crankshaft reground and from a different motor. Having a look at different web sites to see about bearings being damaged, and thus not usable. Adds about $500 more to motor repair.

Is it wise to use second hand bearings for the crankshaft. I have 3 sets of old , used bearings, for a 4 cylinder ford flat motor. What is accepted as being the best idea, new or used, for 75 year old motor.

What type of car.

Ok thanks

trying to replace distributor, after pulling engine apart. The manual says to have the broader offset tongue directed to the rear, as viewed from above, when the distributor and coupling shaft is removed. BUT, it says the condenser is towards the cylinder head? I have the shaft at 45 degrees to the front, with the larger offset facing the rear. Does not seem correct... Does anyone have a picture of the offset tongue , in this position, and , a picture of the condenser position, when at TDC for piston one. motor is a 4 cylinder, flat 4 , prefect motor, E93a. 1939 model. Thanks Phil

Would running the engine on 3 cylinders have any adverse effect on the main bearings? Because if this idea works, it will tell me the bearing at fault.

Thanks Jack. Just trying to get ideas. The bearings were second hand, same as the conrods, so a better check here is a good idea. As far as something in spark plug hole, I keep everything clean, so that did not happen_ but , as I say, looking for ideas when it comes out. Pan has no gap big enough to pull out. A suggestion that taking a spark lead off will tell me which bearing is at fault _ I am not sure if motor will still run on 3 cylinders? as I check each one.

I hear the knock, but not certain if it comes from the generator, only a small possibility, but eliminates the generator being the problem. After that, there is only the bearings, conrods or main.

Thanks. Too difficult to remove pan, and about 3 hours to pull the motor out. Aim at the moment is to disconnect generator, start up and see if knock occurs, then ??? Engine out and check conrods, bearings and any movement. Should know soon, hopefully.

Thanks again for the reply. The history is this- crankshaft was broken in 2 places, 2 conrods were bent and 1 piston was chipped on the bottom. Obviously dramatic. So, another crankshaft, 4 second hand pistons and conrods, new rings AND had the motor balanced by engineer, including clutch. Another camshaft and bottom pan (which is where I was confused with the oil level), all cleaned, reset valves. This motor is 80 years old, but that should not matter. I will check knock again, and if still there, then motor out, or, realise that doing the restart might have adverse effects and damage it further.

Thanks for the reply. All the articles that I read suggested possible bent rods, bearings scored- as oil became frothy( aerated) oil would not have been pumped. I ran it for 3 minutes, then drained to correct level, still using aerated oil, for another 10 minutes. Then drained and put fresh oil in. Still a knocking noise. Pull engine out or run it to try and locate knock?? Any ideas. Phil

4 cylinder side valve engine , ford. Unfortunately, for me, I over filled the crankcase by double. I did not check the book, and because I replaced the oil pan, I was confused with the dip stick reading. A lot of smoke, before I realised after idling for 3 minutes, and now a knocking noise. Could be damaged bearing on crankshaft, or conrod bearing or something else. Just had motor redone, so a basic mistake now forces me to take it apart again.

Thanks gunshot. I have a spare dipstick from another car, and can use that, cut to right length. Nice job, by the way. Phil

Patience is a virtue, that is true- as some say, take your time and get it right. The making of a dipstick seems like a good idea. I filled the uni joint to the top, and then checked the gearbox and found it over full, so I took some oil out of the gearbox- I was filling the uni joint from the top plug. Thanks for the time. Phil

Thanks for the info Gunsmoke. Now you have me worried. Maybe I have overfilled, that is probably why the oil/grease is coming out the top, and I had to drain the gearbox after filling the uni joint.( too much oil in the gear box) . The oil also seems to leak from the bottom, along the Speedo cable- probably a different issue. But if I have over filled, then I need to find how to stop leak at bottom. Again, too much oil in pan on garage floor. Thanks for the effort. I will have to check diff to see if more oil in there, only checked a little while ago, so I should know the difference, after filling the uni joint.

I have another issue, which is an oil leak from the uni joint, heading down the the drive shaft, but at the drive shaft joint. If I undo the bolts to the cover, and replace a gasket, would that solve the issue. I have not as yet, had tried an attempt to repair, but getting anoyed of the amount of oil in the floor pan underneath.

Gunsmoke, the picture shows the same as mine, except you put the pedals back on the wrong side.looks like a good job you did though. The main issue I had was trying to work out what held these pedals on, whether it was a bolt coming from the bell housing, or just stuck. Thanks for the photos. Phil

Thanks. Phil

My pictures would be the same, so you do not need mine. Now, I needed a front shock for the Chef, and I bought a Chrysler shock that was the same type, size and same bolt position- except a small piece was cut out of the top plate, below that nut (1/8 in) , otherwise perfect. BUT, you might not have had shock absorbers if the manual does not have one, nor if there is no holes already drilled.

They seem similar to the Chev, and will bolt on to the chassis, with a flat cord to tie top to bottom. Will send a picture later. Phil

There is no large washer, just the clip. The clutch pedal has 2 holes for the shaft to hold it, ie.the pedal has a U bend in it, at the shaft it is located on. The brake pedal is situated in the middle. Thus when I get the clutch pedal off, the brake pedal will also be off, but just after one of the U part on the clutch- making this a bit harder to take off. I think your answers are correct, in that the rod is burred over , so a bit of patience. Will let you know how I go. Thanks Phil

At least we are of the opinion that it is this one clip that holds the pedals on, and not some hidden bolt. Thanks for the help. Phil

Thanks Spinney. A puller is probably a safer option. Phil

That is what Max from the Marx group said. Appears as though it will need a bit of a hit to get off. Phil