paul2748

All non-porthole tops had the emblem

Nothing like that on my 56.

I have a 34 V8block with crank (no pistons or heads), front cover, exhaust manifolds, front pulley and what I call a monstrous flywheel, all together. In addition there is a distributor which spins nice and smooth plus the pressure plate and disk which I have removed. engine and parts sold as is. The crank moves. I haven't spun it all the way around. The engine appears to come from a heavy truck as the transmission that was attached is big and has a PTO on it. 200.00 for the engine. $30 for the distributor plus shipping. Make an offer on the clutch parts. It looks like the pressure plate may be rebuildable Except for the distributor, the parts must be picked up as they are heavy and shipping may be high. Pictures available Located in northeast New Jersey. Call Paul, 201-six 5 two-7 zero 2 seven.

Try Hill's in Ohio. They have original parts beside the new stuff. The plates are not cheap. Also check ebay. They come up time to time. That is where I got mine.

When was the trans last serviced? Maybe it's time for a fluid change, filter.

68 Bird? Does it idle smoothly? If so, just adjust the idle a little higher using the adle adjustment screw. If it's idling rough, it may be the idle mixture screws. Do you know what the factory recommendation is? You might want to look it up.

This site used to be for 55-57 Birds only. With the new format, did this change?

There was something, but I am not sure what it was. I used a long screw clamp. Hope the pic shows.

Is this a single reservoir master? Usually you don't have to bleed these. The double reservior ones you usually have to bleed.

If you can show us a picture of what you mean perhaps some one can help. I redid the frame on my 56, but the "snaps" mystifies me (unless old age made me forget what they are).

Did you rebuild the generator or did you have it professionally done? If the latter, the rebuilder should have tested it before letting it go out the door.

CASCO has them.

I think any good gas shock (like KYB) will suffice, without the Koni price. The anti sway bars are a good idea.

The one on my 56, which I believe is an original bracket, is as follows: Width 1 1/4 Length where the switch is located 2 1/4 Length of mounting leg 1 3/4

As far as the shroud is concerned, I replaced the bottom piece with one that CASCO sells. It is a real shroud that directs the air through the radiator. The bottom piece factory shroud is little more than a accident prevention piece.

I have a stock radiator in my 56 and don't have any problems The Tbirds parts houses carry radiators. Also try U.S Radiator

The only thing I can suggest is that you recheck the wires to make sure they are connected correctly. If there is no problem there, then have the generator and regulator rechecked.

The hole where the screw is is for the heat tube for the automatic choke. You should find another hole at the other side of the intake. There is a tube that goes through the intake. They rot out. Replacements are available. There are fittings that go into each end of the tube The right side ones goes into a short tube that goes into the automatic choke. On the other side, there is a piece if tubing that goes into a hole in the carb under the air horn.

Carpenter's door weatherstripping is supposed to be the best fit. That is what the guy who did my resto used.

Try a good body shop - sometimes they can just "tweak" it back into position with a block of wood without loosening it up.

I have heard that the road lamp kit was required for all cars going into Canada. This was just word of mouth, I have never seen anything in writing about these. Thundervette's (i hope this is not a brandx powered TBird) explanation sounds more logical as it being just an accessory.

I installed these shortly after I bought my 56. The aiming thing is a problem. You have to install, see how they are, remove and adjust and reinstall, hoping you got it right. If not, go through the whole thing again.

Because of the springs, there is some initial resistance when closing the hood from a fully open position. You should be able to lower it without breaking anything. There is no mechanism holding it other than the normal springs. To fully shut, I hold the rear center of the hood and raise it about 8-10 inches from the shut position and just drop it. If everything is in alignment and the latches are lubed and work properly, it should fully close. Most guys I know do it that way, but I have seen a lot of guys just lay it down and then press on the ends at both sides to latch it. Do what ever you are comfortable with.

Are you giving them away? If so I'll take them, will pay shipping. Send me a PM

Assuming the use of "4 stroke" is a regular internal combustion engine with separate gas and oil and if the volvo is a 4 stroke, then yes.