keithb7

Hi folks, I recently came in contact with a 1928 Dodge Brothers Standard 6. I volunteered to spend some time assessing the car and putting together a budget number. At this point, the plan is to make it drivable and safe. The car appears to be mostly stock. The engine turns. Early indications are its mostly all there. I was able to obtain the car SN. It is J37014. It appears to be an early June 1928 build. I believe this is just before Chrysler bought the company. Is this correct? The 6 cylinder engine SN reads J49-049. I so far I have not been able to locate any info on the engine SN. So if anyone can verify this correct for 1928 , that would be great. We pulled the front wheels today and found mechanical brakes. There seemed to be no inner wheel bearing dust seal so there is wheel grease all over the front brake shoes. The 4 cables at each wheel are in rough shape. Does anyone know of a source for 4 new brake cables? They are short, about 18" long each. We are going to need new cables. I am going to try and hot wash the brake shoe assemblies and see what we can do to clean them up. Drums look good. We will make a puller for the rear and get the rear wheels off later this week. The engine spins free. We measured some decent compression numbers today, even turning with the hand crank. We removed the fuel tank today and cleaned out the fuel lines. The tank will be sent out for a good cleaning. We suspect it will run soon. Here are some pics. I have heard the head lights are not correct. Can anyone confirm? Below here are the brake cables we need. These are the front only shown: Any help is appreciated folks. More pics to come. Thanks, Keith

My understanding is there are many, many camshaft profiles for these Mopar Flat 6 engines. In that mix are many cam profiles for just industrial engines. The industrial engine were used in so many applications. Depending on where the engine is used it will be set to make a certain torque at a certain RPM. Different cam profiles are custom ground for the engine application. For example, my 1953 Chrysler Windsor has about 4,000 lb curb weight. A tug for pulling around luggage trailers on an airport runway weights in a lot less. I suspect these would have very different torque curves.

Wow, there is some incredible art here. The detail is amazing. My wife has decided to try her hand at sketching. She's new to it. Below here are her first 2 drawings. I encourage her to keep at it. She's learning more during each drawing. She wants me to ask my local car club if anyone will let us take a few pics of their cars so she has more subject matter. Heather quite enjoys drawing vintage cars.

Wow, there is some awesome garage space here. I dream of a garage that I can work easily around my car, and also fit a 4 post lift. We keep looking at real estate options, but have yet to find anything that fits out wants. So for now, I am content with an enclosed garage and some wheel castors. I am limited what I can do in the winter. In the nicer months I will work outside if needed. I get by pretty good.

If you happen to have some gas with ethanol in your tank, does adding fuel stabilizer keep it fresh? Does it prevent the quick deterioration of the ethanol fuel?

My 1953 Chrysler Windsor: Here is what a wise man said, in another forum about my SN plate For the body tag - Model - 25 - Windsor DeLuxe 4dr Sedan Paint - 22 - Everglades Green Metallic Trim - 16 - Seats are done in green cloth Sched - 154 - Car scheduled to be built on the 154th of 1953 production Item - 0258 - Believe the 258th car to be built that day The rest are numbers for the options on the car - power steering, Fluid Torque Drive, radio, back up lights, etc. You can order the car's build record from FCA Historical. Not sure of the rates these days. The build record will confirm the engine number for that serial number and the options installed on the car. It would seem that you and I have the same colour car. Is yours a 2 door? Mine built on the 154th day of 1953. Yours on the 151st day of 1953.

I have limited experience, however the 265 is a 25" engine. I do own a 1953 Windsor 6, 265. I also know of a 25" 218 engine that were in smaller Mopar cars. Like found in a Dodge 6, or Special Deluxe. These engines may have been made in Canada only. Shorter stroke I believe. I was informed that a Windsor with a smaller displacement engine in it, will be pretty slow. The Windsor is big, and heavy, the 265 is a good fit.

It took me 46 years to truely apprecite old retired car folks. This year I bought my first vintage car. A 1953 Chrysler. I love the damn thing. I have 30 years of experience fixing and maintaining my own cars. One, because I enjoy it. Two, because I won’t pay someone to do what I can, or want to learn to do. This year I joined my first local vintage car club. I looked around the room. I’m the youngest person there. 95% are retirees with a love affair for old cars. These folks are so awesome. No drama. No attitude. They are cool to coach younger keeners like me. They are not pretentious. They don’t stare at themselves in a mirror at the gym for 4 hours a day. Lol. They weld. They troubleshoot. They fix and restore old cars. They are ex-mechanics and ex-machinists. They have shops and awesome tools. They have gobs of experience. Very importantly they have patience for the right respectful, younger apprentice who wants to prevserve vintage automobiles. It’s so very true...Old guys rule. Join a club. Pull everything you can from the club members. Advice and help. Be thankful, grateful and respectful. In due time you’ll have little trouble maintaining an old Datsun 280Z. Good luck whatever you choose.

I’ve had a few awesome fall cruises in my ‘53 Chrysler Windsor Deluxe. Kamloops, BC Canada.

Thank you very much. This is pretty close to me so freight savings are a help too!

Hi folks. I have a line on a 1929 Dodge. It's been stored in a garage since the 60's. Appears mostly original. Engine last ran in 1999. Engine is not locked up. Once we know it runs, we need to make it safe. I am new to sourcing parts for this model of car and era. Can anyone make some recommendations for good suppliers for brake parts? Drums, shoes, wheel pistons, maybe piston seal kits? Suggestions appreciated. Thanks, Keith

Update. 1,000 miles on the engine now since the valve grind. It's running very good. I am enjoying the last few cruises of the season before I park the Chrysler for the coming winter. I don't see oil burning, unless I am in bull low using engine compression as braking going down a steep hill. I believe this is due to a couple of worn valve guides. Normal use, I am not burning oil as far as I can tell. It seems my decision to just do a valve grind here was a good call for me. The engine is not picky. It starts and runs great. I pulled the rad, flushed it and the block. I toured in 100 degree weather this summer in a car rally. Plenty of steep hills and low speed. No overheating. Knowing what I know now, and have learned from this experience, I recommend folks remember to stick with the basics. Spark at right time, compression, and fuel. This is all you really need to troubleshoot an engine. In the end for me, the compression results found my problem. Throwing spark-plugs, cap, condenser, wires, points, etc. at it was just hoping I'd hit the problem. It was not all in waste however as I did end up with a well tuned, reliable car with good compression again. I suspect it will be at least of couple more seasons of cruising as it sits today, before I get into the engine again. Thanks for those to chipped in along the way. Cheers. - Keith

Hi, I am looking for a used upper windshield visor for my 1953 Windsor Deluxe. 1 piece windshield. Various payment options. Shipped to 98295. Thanks, Keith Something similar to this. Any colour is fine.

Hi, I am looking for: Rear wheel skirts Exterior Windshield Sun Visor Rubber pads for floor of door sills 1953 Chrysler Windsor Deluxe Please contact me if you have either for sale, or any tips where to find. Thx.

I bought my 1953 Chrysler 2 months ago. I'm 46. The car is 64 currently.

I ordered a new big heavy duty puller. I appeciate the tips folks. I will plan to start pulling the drums 3-4 days before I plan to actually work on the rear brakes. Tightening and pulling the drums daily in stages.

That was me. Yes many parts were swapped and my head was scratched before I finally did a compression test. Then everything was revealed. Based on what happened to me, here is where I would start. The engine needs three things to happen run. Spark, at the right time, compression, and fuel. That's pretty well it it when you break it down. I was chasing spark when my problem was compression. 1. Pull plugs and crank over. Are you seeing sparks at plug tips? 2. Are you sure you are getting fuel? Pull air filter and look down throttle body of carb. Open throttle linkage a few times all the way. You should see raw fuel spray into the throttle body. 3. While plugs are out hook a compression gauge and measure all. Ensure battery is fully charged and throttle is wide open. Crank engine and take a compression reading for each cylinder. Starting here, you will find where to go next. Good luck. Keith

Thanks Spinnyhill. I won't diasgree with you. It all makes sense. Brake fluid naturally absorbs moisture. Even from humidity in the air. Lately I have noticed the dragging is letting up a little. Maybe the more we use the car, corrosion is displacing. I guess I better order a puller so I can get the rear drums off. Get in the wheel cylinders and hone them a little.

Hi folks, my 1953 Windsor Deluxe is showing signs of the brakes dragging. The rear brake lamps will stay on when this occurs. The brake light switch is up under the floorboards, about under the back seat passenger foot area. Not too far from the master cylinder. This leads me to assume that the brake pressure is being held up at the master cylinder. Maybe the small relief port in it? If the wheel cylinders were partially seizing, instead of the master cylinder, would the brake light go out when the foot pedal is released? I am planning to do some more testing. Maybe crack open a brake line fitting at the master cylinder, with the car on stands and see if the brakes release. Will that help me determine where the problem area is? Part of my problem is I do not have a puller yet to get the rear drums off. So getting access to the rear wheel cylinders is an issue for me. I do need to order a puller. I was hoping to find something local, and save some money. They are not cheap. Thanks for any tips of how I can determine exactly what is hanging up where. With the brake light staying on, after parking and shutting off the car, that leads me to the master cylinder. After about 15 mins the hydraulic pressure backs off and the brake lights go out. Then you can easily push/roll the car. Thanks in advance.

Thanks folks. #6 intake valve was stuck open. Tappet was fine. All valve sufaces were pretty worn. As mentioned earlier I did a patch job here to enjoy the rest of the driving season. The repair turned out quite well. A few valve guides has a little more wear than others, but I left them all in. Seem to be no issue as I don't see any oil buring. I did not measure the top ridge. I did not want to go down a rabbit hole of repairs this summer. The ridge is not excessive. I'd guess .005 or so thick on some. Others pretty much almost nil. I remember my old 225 slant 6 in my '74 Dart when I was a teenager. It had quite a ridge when I tore into it by 1987. The car is getting regular use by my son and I. Pulling rad this week to flush it. Temp drop from top tank to bottom tank is about 20 to 25 F. I think I'd like to see more cooling there.

Valve job done and car is running well with plenty more power and torque. I am not burning any oil that I can see. The car is running very smooth and the performance increase is very good. Before and after valve set Compression Test Results: Before Valve Job, Dry compression: 1 - 95 psi 2 - 70 psi 3- 95 psi 4 - 85 psi 5 - 85 psi 6 - 0 psi After Valve Job Dy Compression: 1. 100 psi 2. 100 psi 3. 105 psi 4. 105 psi 5. 105 psi 6. 95 psi

I thought you folks might like this. My 1953 L6 needed valve work. I pulled it apart, hand cut the seats and hand lapped in new valves. New gaskets, head bolts ect. It's all back to together and running great again. I am amazed at how smooth and quiet these engine are. Good torque too. Next I plan to pull the water pump and check the water distribution tube. Not until after the big car show a month from now though. I can't get parts quick enough to risk it going down before the show. https://youtu.be/IUHH5BdFtvk This next one is back when I bought it in May: https://youtu.be/DFcZ869HiFc

@Joe Cocuzza, I have decided to pass on the 1951 once I learned of all the differences. Today I noticed that the seller has lowered the asking price another $50. Someone will probably take it away for near nothing.

Thanks! Thats awesome. I will email you later today.

I own a 1953 Windsor Deluxe. It's new to me and I am still learning about it. Locally I found a 1951 Windsor for sale. It looks complete. Asking price is $500 Canadian. That's about $350 US Funds. The ad says the car is complete and was last running about 10 years ago. I was thinking this 51 Windsor may make a great parts car. Mine, and this one have the L6 engine. Not sure if they are the same. I am interested in learning what drivetrain/mechanical parts may be the same between this car and mine. My '53 has the fluid torque drive. I would have to confirm if the 51 is the same. The body designs look slightly different, glass, trim etc. I am not worried about those parts. I am thinking it would be nice to have spare parts from the radiator , right thought to the rear wheels. Any comments are appreciated. Here's the 1951 My 1953: