Lahti35

This will be my route most likely, I've got feelers out now for the machine work. The pump will never be right unless the driven gear is corrected.

Cute kids! I love the old pics... thanks for posting!

I pulled the oil pump this afternoon to clean it and give it a once over... Right off I noticed the bailing wire on the relief valve. Once I pulled the pump apart and cleaned it up I set to work on the relief valve. It's a pretty simple affair, however, the machining was was not so good. With the valve closed I blew into it and it leaked pretty good. I chucked the plunger into my drill to smooth and polish it's face. I then used some valve grinding compound and gently mated the body and plunger together until I got nice contact all around. Once complete I cleaned it all good and assembled it with a cotter pin (no bailing wire) and set it aside for installation. No leaking this time when blowing into it, holding pressure now. I moved onto the gears and they looked good... at first! I cleaned up the old gasket material (I felt like the gasket was too thick when looking at it from the outside) and tried to assemble it dry to check the fit. I noticed there was some up a down play in the pump shaft before disassembly so I was thinking there was excess clearance between the gears and face plate. The face plate rocked on the pump body like a teeter totter when I set it on. I found the driven gear in the pump was not sitting right, the hole drilled in the pump body is not parallel with the drive shaft hole resulting in a cocked gear that sticks up in the center of the pump. The plate will never fit right without a thick gasket and even then the clearance isn't right in the pump. It's hard to get a pic of but you can see it with the eye easily. You can see the left gear sticks up more towards the center, the drive gear sits flat with no issue. I have two options, find a new pump or have the current pump bushed and trued to correct the issue with the driven gear. Not much luck finding a pump today, will look into machining this week if no pump can be had...

I tested the oil gauge a while back an it's OK so I put it back in the cluster. I also made new wires for the ammeter and put it back in the dash. The gas gauge (in center between oil and amp) is a mechanical unit and will be renovated later when I drop the gas tank.

No problem....

The builder did go for suicide doors, very sporty!

Can you jump it with some battery charging cables direct to the starter and frame to eliminate everything in between? If it were my car I'd try that to eliminate the starter itself as it sits installed.

It was a tough choice, lots of options out there! I though about going for the ratcheting type but gave these a try instead.

Looks great, lots of craftsmanship here, impressive!

Thank you for the kind comment! I looked around for a spring but couldn't find one. Bobs Auto had one that was close but must have been for a slightly different Marvel carb as it would not connect to the choke arm on my 10-89. I needed one that would poke through a hole in the arm with enough left over to bend a tab on it. The only other one I found just had a "U" shape that slipped around the arm and tension held it in place. I chucked up a slightly undersize drill bit in my lathe and wrapped with wire 3 turns while holding tension on it, when released it sprung back a bit to the correct size. From there it was a matter of bending the ends how they needed to be. I am making the wiring harness myself. I did buy the cloth wire from YnZ, they have a wide selection and it's very nice quality and easy to work with. I upgraded my crimpers for this project to a pair of Channel Lock brand cutter crimpers, way better than my old multi use tool. They have a wide crimping area and crimp 95% of the connector length at once. Price was well worth it. Made in USA too, awesome!

I've found a few goodies for the Nash too... I found this dog bone on Epay and it was used but no abused, matched the condition of the car well. A short time later ran across this large size Boyce meter also in similar condition to the car. I got the two of them together and it looks good, I'll have to change out the face for a Nash or Boyce one but it looks right at home and is fully functional. I have a thing for these accordion luggage racks so I had to pick one up for this car also. I found a heavy duty one, it weighs a ton but fits the size of the car well. I'll fill it with a suitcase or something after I restore it. It's missing one rivet but that's an easy fix. Last but not least I found this spotlight with a mirror. I liked the setup of the mirror kind of sticking out like a lollypop so I snagged it. It will need a restoration as well, I small fun project for a lazy day. I'm hoping to start her up in April, so far we're on time and on target. Michigan still has some winter weather to spit at us so no rush. There is the Ford F250 to get back to shortly though so I don't want things piling up, lol.

I've been picking away at the wiring for the ignition as the supplies show up. I noticed some differences in the way the ignition switch was wired vs. the factory wiring diagram, this may account for the voltage drop I was seeing at the coil... I'll know more on that when the switch is reinstalled, testing on the bench as the factory wired it shows no voltage drop. The original wires did show some drop but I never found any particular wire I could point to as the culprit. The new wires are of course reading better than the old when tested so there should only be improvement. The new loom arrived and I put it to good use (found an oil can too!)... Since the horn pulls its power directly from the starter lug and I was in the neighborhood I did that small harness also. I tucked the new fuse panel up under the dash out of the way. Old loom and lighting wiring on the left, new ignition loom and wiring on the right above the fuse panel.

I got my carb kit in the mail so I've been picking at that between other jobs. The float is catching a bit on the back wall of the bowl so I'll have to shave it a bit for free movement. I attribute this to the arm it attaches too, it's bent slightly. I'll dig into this later when it's time to do final assembly and coat it with fuel proof dope. I did sand the bowl slightly to make sure it was flat and take out a few old dings. The original choke spring was broken and only remnants remained so I fashioned a new one out of piano wire. It took a few tries to get it just right but it's working again.

I had this exact scenario a few years ago, did everything right and it still went wrong. Got a quote from a reputable shipper (not a broker) accepted it, bought the car and waited for the appointed pickup time. Time came and went and them some more time came and went and then the shipper dropped the shipment because he couldn't get another pick up out that way, whining about not making money. He never once mentioned needing another shipment in the area when he quoted me a not insignificant price. Left me stranded with a paid for car 26hr round trip from home. Ended up massively inconvenienced collecting the darn car myself... shipper even had the audacity to check in later to make sure it worked out ok! I never would have bought the car if shipping had not been arranged first as was done. Shipping is always a gamble, though the risk may be small with reputable carriers, no shipping is 100% for sure until it's in your driveway.

"She's so fine there's no telling where the money went!"

Talk about the power of resistance! I look forward to the you rolling it over, starter and generator look great!

Well I've had a devil of a time finding something comparable to the original top end oil line... 1/8" is too small, 5/32" is too big and everything else I could locate had such thin walls I was dubious about it holding up. In the end I was able to find some brake line and ferrules at a vintage Citroen supply company, it's 3.5mm which is just a tad under (.006") the original funky Nash size. I hoped I could snake the new line in from the bottom end with the valve cover off the top but it was not to be, too many bends. I removed the pushrod cover and was able to get the old line out where I solved a minor mystery... When the engine was rebuilt the oil line to the top end was positioned incorrectly. The crank counterweight for #4 cylinder was beating it every time the crank went around. With that much flexing going on it's no wonder the line failed at the ferrule. When the new line gets here this weekend I'll install it and rotate the crank to verify there is no contact. The line itself T's off from the center main bearing, sneaks up a small void between the crankcase, then heads up through an oil feed trough for the lifters before ending in the rocker shaft oil distribution/filler tube.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/647562742993754/?ref=browse_tab&referral_code=marketplace_top_picks&referral_story_type=top_picks Perhaps someone more astute in the ways of tech can transfer the ad from facebook, I've no clue!

Looks great! Fantastic work.

What a cutie, I was watching one in Wisconsin last year that seemed to sit forever at $6500 in comparable condition. Looks like a well cared for car, I always like to see writing on the oil filter!

I just talked with him a last week and ordered a kit. Nice guy, a wealth of fuel vaporizing knowledge!

Looking for a gas cap for my 1925 Nash, the one on it currently doesn't fit, wrong threads. I need one that's threaded on the inside, has an inner diameter of 1 and 15/16" with a thread count of 13TPI. Somebody has one in a drawer I'll bet, I could use it! Please message me here if you have such a cap. Thanks in advance.

I once heard a scientific study on this phenomenon. According to research conducted, people consider an item inherently MORE valuable if they own it vs one they do not own. It was an interesting study that looked into how we value things, interesting stuff and practical for getting in a seller's mindset when making purchases.

It is at that, I am happy to have the Kellog switch! Unfortunately I do have a pot metal speedometer to contend with, it once moved but has swelled into a solid block, LOL.

I try and stay busy, no moss on a rolling stone and all that! I feel like I've spent just as much time researching and tracking down supplies/parts at this point than actually working on the car. Warm weather is coming and I don't want to miss it😁