147 Franklin Airman

Thank for the info Rod, very informative. That spares car would be handy for the transmissions internal gears. Great Photos dibarlaw, now I just need to buy the car. Strangely, the car I am looking at was imported from New Zealand in 1990 and is a right hand drive.

Hi Leif Thank you so much for the information. Very helpful. Regards

Hi I am looking at buying a 1925 Buick 25/55 on auction in the UK and wondered if anyone would be able to supply a few technical details that I have been unable to find. Wheelbase length? Availability of engine parts? Thanks

I use a Castrol 140 grade in my differential and a classic green oil 140 in the transmission. I found the modern anti foam oils actually foam up and once warm it becomes difficult to get into 1st gear.

Hi Paul Do you by any chance have any spare angle drives and cables, working or broken?

FCP-23 is the Franklin kit part number not the bearing code. I have just received a replacement from Dick so all is well now. The bearing cup does state CHS as the manufacturer and 13C as a part number.

Hi Tom I have now turned my hub smooth, trued and polished it up. My finished size is 2.330” and looking at your previous posts on the forum I now realise that my hub was much bigger before I turned it true so this could be the reason for the sleeve not fitting. I am sorry but I should have read the measurements that you gave me in the first place. Martin

Hi Tom One question that I have is that I am unsure if the sleeve is wide enough. How far does sleeve need to be pressed onto the shaft? The bevelled lip takes it to the top of the fan shaft. My measurements indicate that the seal will miss the sleeve if not pressed on further towards the body of the fan.

Thanks Mike, I will give him a call.

I am still looking for the inside gears if any one has them, good or worn

I am looking for replacement taper roller bearings for the rebuild kit made by Dick Pratt that the club supply under item# FCP-23. Does anyone have a spare bearing or even a complete kit that they are prepared to sell? I have contacted Keith Kilmer at the club and he doesn't have any. Dick Pratt is trying very hard to obtain a replacement bearing from Argentina but not had any luck yet.

https://www.shannons.com.au/auctions/2016-shannons-sydney-autumn-classic-auction/I98A7VCFN86YVZ2A/ Auction is on 14th March 2016

An update on what I have found so far. I removed all the side light bulbs and found that no current was being drawn which eliminated a short in the wiring. I decided to take the easy route and replace the battery with a 140ah / 900 CCA and I noticed that the charging voltage was slow to increase to 8 volts. After an hours drive all seems to be good.

I am throwing this out in the hope that someone has a magical solution. Series 11b running on 6 volts and original generator and a red top 55ah battery. I can drive the car for weeks during the day and it always turns over nicely. If I put the side lights on for 30 minutes, the battery drains and will not turn the engine over. With the engine revs at around 1500 rpm the voltage at the battery is 8.8 volts, if I put the side lights on it drops to 6.7v and stays there with the engine off. If I disconnect the battery with the engine running the side lights will light up no problem. Our local alternator service depot cannot test the generator for some reason so I am at a loss of what it might be.

Mike, I wasn't worried about postage I merely asked you how much it would cost and you sold it before letting me know. A bit disappointed.

Hi Layden Yes it is. Attached is the angle drive on the right of the picture.

Does anyone have the internal gears for the speedometer angle drive fitted to Series 11 (1927) and possibly other years. If so please let me know as I have someone in the USA who can build me a replacement. I would be quite happy to have even a worn one with a cracked casing so that I could get the gears reversed engineered

Hi Tom Thank you for confirming that and for the additional part numbers. You have been most helpful. Its nice to hear from someone who has experienced this work. This will save me a lot of time hunting. Martin

Hi Tom Many thanks for your detailed instructions which I fully understand, and also for the part numbers and supplier details. This will give me a great start to solving the oil leak and perhaps a clean engine one day. From your part number I have found this seal which is available in the UK. SKF CRW1 Viton Oil Seals: These radial shaft seals have Waveseal lip design to reduce friction and heat generation. The seals have a single steel shell to simplify installation and provide a tight fit in the housing bore. The outside diameter of the seals is coated with Bore-Tite, a non-hardening, water-based polyacrylate sealant, which enables the seals to accommodate small imperfections in the housing bore. This seal also has a carbon steel garter spring. These seals are primarily designed for lubricant retention. Benefits: Reduced friction and heat generation, provides a tight fit in the housing bore, accommodates small imperfections in the housing bore. SKF Inside Diameter: 60.325mm = 2.375 inch Outside Diameter: 76.2mm = 3 inch Width: 9.525mm = 0.375 inch And the sleeve (USA only) Part Number: HB-4123 Weight: 0.1 lbs Notes: 0.780/.800 Depth. Outside Diameter: 2.366 / 2.368 Inside Diameter: 2.328 / 2.330 Depth or Length: 0.780 / 0.800 Thickness: 0.019 in. Includes Sleeve Sealant: Yes Does the 0.007" gap cause any leakage? Martin

Hi Bob Thanks for your reply. Yes that is exactly what I was thinking of doing. Although I have been warned about making the timing cover too weak through machining for a seal. I am going to remove the timing cover again to check the acme thread etc as when I blew the drainhole clear it started to leak even more. Martin

Many thanks Gordon. I have cleaned the threads and the drain hole and even placed a paper shim behind the dust seal but still seem to have oil leaking out. I have had contact from Paul who advised that machining the check piece is not a good idea. I shall strip it all down and check it all again.

I am looking into replacing the felt seal on the crank shaft at the fan end and wondered if anyone has machined the timing chain cover for the fitment of a rubber seal and if so how well has it worked and for how long. If someone has done this would you be able to let me know what seal was used? I would attach drawing number 87934 but its not available.

Hi Steve I messaged Mike about the elbow drive but before I could find out the price he said it was sold. Thanks for sorting my sign in issues. Martin

I am also looking for a rotor for my 1927 11b

Found this 1927 11b in Holland and brought it back to the UK in 2013, tidied the body up and resprayed. The chassis and engine numbers were unknown to the club. Runs like a dream. It was hiding in a private museum.