147 Franklin Airman

I am looking for a fuemer from my Stromberg U3 carburetor drawing number 42150. Does anyone have one for sale?

Hi Steve Just in case my last post wasn't clear, I would be interested in buying your broken ones. I have tried to PM you but can't using a mobile. I will when I get back to my office.

Hi Steve I would be interested in buying 2 or 3 and I will look into casting here in the UK. Can you let me know how much? Martin

The speedo end at the bottom

Here is a picture of one that Paul Fitz gave me so I know what it looks like. 90 deg and yes 1927. The speedometer is made by Waltham and the front plate is dated 1916

I am looking for the angle joint that connects the speedo to the cable in working condition or for repair. I do not have one so not sure if they can be reconditioned but until I have one in my hand I will not know. This is for use on my 11b Sedan and will need to be shipped to the UK.

Does anyone have the angle joint (90 deg adaptor) for sale that will fit this speedometer? Working or not. If so, please PM me with a price.

Hi John Did you get any photos?

Just a quick update, I now have the parts I needed thanks to Ed in Idaho and my transmission is once again working well, Thanks to all that helped me find them.

Your thread title states that the speedo is for sale, do you have a price?

I have now found the drawings on the Franklin website with great thanks to Paul. It looks like the T3 and T3A use the same internal parts, its just the shifter and the casing (brake cylinder mountings) that are different.

Would anyone have a drawing in their parts catalog of a 3 speed Warner T3 transmission that they could attach to this thread? I am trying to establish the difference between the T3A. The T3 would have been used just before 1930 I think. Many thanks in advance.

Hi Kent I was reading your thread and I thought I would add my thoughts. Adding a fuel additive to the fuel like Marvel Oil helps lubricate the exhaust valves amongst other parts. On my 147 I have a dip stick so I would assume that your 145 has the same engine, is your dip stick missing? Martin

Does anyone know the difference between the Warner Transmission T3 and the T3A? I know from Paul that the shifter is more forward on the T3A but I really need to know if the internal parts are interchangeable. Any knowledge would be much appreciated.

Thanks Rob I have had 3 replies to my advert on the Franklin website but it appears to be people wanting me to send money by Western Union and when I ask for photos or their address, all goes quiet. Scammers I suspect.

Rob Thanks for your reply, I have contacted Paul and he gave me the answer I was looking for. A hammer and punch were needed. I look forward to hearing from you regarding my spare parts requirement of which the list may grow as I strip the gearbox further.

Hi Rob Would you know how to remove the selector on the high and intermediate gear shaft? There are 3 of what appear to be slotted screws but I have ruined a very strong screw driver trying to undo one of them. Picture attached

Hi Rob Thank you for your reply. My shifter comes out the sloping part of the floor board. The shifter rod ends are exposed. The parts I need are: R-4700 Eccentric Gear R-4702 Transmission intermediate drive gear R-4680 High and intermediate clutch shaft gear assembly R-4682 Sliding gear shaft with bushing I did email your Dad Lee yesterday but no reply yet. I will try call him. Many Thanks

I am in need of parts or a complete working 3 speed gearbox for my 1930 147. The box is a Warner T3A-1. I will also consider a complete 4 speed if any are available. The box or parts will need to be shipped to the UK although my son is in San Francisco until Thursday this week, but not sure if it would fit in his hand luggage.

I am no longer looking for a car, I have just found an unlisted Series 11b to keep me busy. Might look for a 7 seater when this one is finished.

WANTED I am looking for a series 14 or later 7 seater sedan or a 5 seater open tourer in reasonable condition. Bodywork should be sound but paint work not important. Mechanically not too much wrong. Car must be complete. Willing to pay up to $15000.00 for the right car. Car will be collected and shipped over to the UK. My contact email is martin@luxurydrive.co.uk

Some questions come to mind regarding radials. Would you be able to get the same sidewall height? if not then the car would have a lower top speed and with my 3 speed gearbox that would be a big no-no. Would radials reduce some of the wander that cross ply give? We have speed bumps in the centre of the road here in the UK and when travelling over them the car gets thrown to one side if you dont hit it straight on, but that might not anything to do with the type of tyre or does it?

Hi Tom Thank you for your suggestions. I am currently looking into the carb and trying to find more details on the U3. Main jet is not adjustable. Paul has been helping me solve a lot of the issues with the car and my problem with the misfire has been narrowed down to inductive crossfiring with the HT leads. Simply taking the HT leads out of the metal loom and feeding them separately through the exhaust manifold resulted in amarked improvement. Oh and I have changed all the plugs back to Champion D16 after finding another 2 of the NGK not firing when in the cylinders. It would appear that cars of this age do not like modern components without some form of adjustment elsewhere or without understanding the basics of how they were engineered in the first place. I have realised that in order to work on these cars, one must put on the other hat and almost ignore modern practices and think like they did back in the 1930's. All credit must go to Paul for his patience and knowledge in helping me to resolve the many problems that I have had. Now all I need is an instant fix with my rich mixture but we are working on that. Martin

I am hopeful that someone can pin point my problem. The engine starts fine and idles great, but when both cold and hot the engine appears to miss a beat and feels like a misfire, still pulls well but not as well as she could. These are the checks that I have done and their results. Compression on all cylinders is between 60-68 psi Leak down test reveals leakage at about 30% in all cylinders into the crank case. No leakage through the valves. (probably because its all going into the crank case) The plugs are burning very rich resulting and a lot of black soot out the exhaust but she never smokes. I have tried advancing the timing whilst underload but no improvement, just makes it worse. The valves were replaced with ones from a Massey Ferguson tractor back in the 1970's The pistons were also changed and I note that they now only have 3 rings and not the 4 as on the Franklin drawings. The carburetor float level is correct and she has new economiser parts. Jets have not been changed. Rocker valve clearances seem to keep changing and I now check and adjust them every 2 weeks. I run her every weekend. Valve cages have been levelled off and rockers sitting nicely on the valve stems. Push rods rattle a little but due to replace with the new ones I got from the club if I can get them to fit. I have installed a conductive discharge unit to protect the points. All ignition components are new except the distributor body. Plugs are NGK AB6. No inlet leakage, tested with water on joints. Is she being choked by the rich fuel mixture?

Mike, I have emailed you a few times over the last 4 weeks but not had a reply regarding the parts that you were going to find and price for me, so hoping you get this message. Thanks