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147 Franklin Airman

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Everything posted by 147 Franklin Airman

  1. Hi Brooklyn All is good with Jim. I had pulled away going downhill and as soon as I went into 2nd she let go and of course the clutch doesn't do anything as the wheels were still turning the transmission. Not the first time this has happened to me.
  2. Thanks Paul I wasn't sure if the Detroit would fit straight in, so I will keep looking for a 3 speed Warner. Martin
  3. Hi Does anyone have either the Eccentric gear (49500) and the Intermediate gear (49487) or a complete Warner T3A Hi-Flex transmission that they are willing to sell? This is from my 1930 Series 14. Of course I would not refuse a working Detroit 4 speed if there are any out there.
  4. Hugh, I meant that the higher octane fuel could be the reason that the timing needs to be less than 17 deg. I have used a vacuum gauge and she reads a reasonably steady 18 inches of mercury. I believe that a reading between 15 -20 indicates all is good. I'm going to change the ignition coil next. Martin
  5. Hugh I set the timing at 17 BTDC but she doesn't like it at all, I had to retard it a little to get her to run smoother although she is still lumpy. I assume this is due to the higher octane fuel.
  6. Thanks Hugh That is useful information regarding the setting of the timing with the steering wheel lever, thank you. I have had to do the timing by feel as could never see the 17 deg mark with my timing light. All the plugs were new as are the leads but I have just ordered new ones, I also removed the spark lead cover and separated all the leads in case I had cross firing. Compression since servicing the head is now 79-82 psi across all cylinders. Martin
  7. Thank you everyone for your suggestions. I thought I would update on what I have found/done. Since I couldn't solve my issues with my Marvel carb I purchased a Rochester B series carburetor (picture attached) Marvel bottle is the pony tank. Results: Using both the main fuel tank and a pony tank the runs but is lumpy at idle and low speeds, she climbs hills no problem but I still have to have the choke out a little. In doing so she is smoking indicating that she is running rich. When cruising at 30mph or slower she runs lumpy but will smooth out when pushing the choke in but only
  8. I will give that a try. Running out of ideas now, although I have just noticed that the thickness of the gasket between the carb & the heat riser would effect the timing of the opening of the metering pin in relation to the main butterfly on the heat riser. Going to make a new thicker gasket to see if it improves.
  9. Thanks for your reply Mark. I only use the electric pump when priming the system prior to starting but its is a low pressure Solex pump.
  10. Thanks for the info on the carb Hugh although that model is slightly different to mine being on a 29-25 where mine has 3 jets (idle, intermediate & high speed) I have similar issues and its driving me crazy. My problem is that I can get the engine to idle nicely but when trying to pull off or drive up a hill she will either backfire through the carburetor or the exhaust. I have done almost everything possible except what is causing this and now I'm thinking that carb has run its life and need changing. I will list what I have done in the hope that someone has an answer. What
  11. Thanks Ray, I forgot to mention that I have blanked off the heat riser but the back firing through the carb can be stopped by pulling the choke out a bit. I have been looking at a replacement carb but its the timing that's worrying me.
  12. Can anyone please tell me how I can check the timing between the crank and the camshaft on my 29-25X? I have an issue whereby when adjusting the distributor so that the timing light is on the 17 deg Adv mark the engine runs terribly but adjusting manually to get her running smoothly she then backfires through the carburetor. All the valves have been cut and the valve seats ground, compression is good. Head was skimmed. Fibre timing gear looks good. Carburetor stripped and cleaned, new idle needle fitted.
  13. Thanks Paul, I thought as much but thought I would ask. Hope you had a great Christmas. Martin
  14. Does anyone know if there is a modern equivalent for the main bearings on a 1930 147? crank assembly drawing number 43840. A search on this forum hasn't revealed any details.
  15. Thank you Paul. I somehow knew you would know. Hope all is well.
  16. Hi Dave The series 14 are from 1930. Thanks for the info.
  17. Hi, does anyone know the correct gauge thickness of the rear fenders on a Series 14? I need to order steel but finding it difficult to measure and need to replace some rusted portions.
  18. Hi Hugh Can you please confirm that the specs below are correct? Bearing name 7038C bearing New model 7038C Old model 36138 bearing Products types 7038C Angular Contact Ball Bearings Categories Angular Contact Ball Bearings Brands SNR Dimensions (mm) Inside diameter ID d 190 Outside diameter OD D 290 Thickness B 46 Size (IDxODxB)mm 190x290x46
  19. I have 4 x 3v solar panels without a regulator and they work well. 2 pairs in series and then both pairs in parallel to increase the wattage. Bright sun provides 7v
  20. I have found that Champion D21 burn a little hotter and cleaner
  21. Hi Does anyone know the throwout/thrust clutch bearing specs, such as a part number so that I can track one down for my 1929 Buick 29-25. I'm hoping to replace the clutch and bearing on the same day.
  22. Thanks Fred, it is possible that I may have overfilled the differential when I replaced the oil with a 250w
  23. I would be very mindful of what power you put through the wooden spoked wheels.
  24. Do not use an ultrasonic bath as it can damage the pot metal.
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