147 Franklin Airman

Thanks Bob, that sounds really easy. Hope it's the same on my 29

Can you tell me what held the camshaft in place?

Thanks Hugh. I should have stated that the blob of tape below the 17 deg mark was the point that the valve started to open. I moved the fly wheel just to show its position in relation to the 17 deg mark. I will be stripping the car down shortly & will get report my findings. (after I have confirmed that the piston is at the top in relation to the TDC mark on the fly wheel)

I think I have found my problem. The piece of tape in the photo is the position where No 1 inlet valve opens. Why it is so far out is something I need to find out. I also wonder how the engine has ever run like this.

Many thanks for this information Hugh. It gives me something concrete to work on as the problem is driving me made having spent a lot of money trying to resolve it. I will have to try a locate a workshop manual somewhere as the one I have is not as detailed as the one you have.

Hi Hubert Thanks for your detailed explanation. My model 29-25 doesn't have a vacuum fed fuel supply, it has a fuel pump. Apart from skimming the block & head, reseating the valves, I have tried using a down draft single barrel Rochester carburetor that had been calibrated with the same result. Done a smoke test looking for inlet leaks. Blocked the inlet for the vacuum wipers. Has the fibre cam gear ever been known to slip on the cam shaft? My idle jet is a little off centre in the venturi.

That's interesting. I can only get 15 "Hg which indicates late timing on my gauge but unable to get it any higher. Been living with this for a long time now & have to run with the choke out.

Have you been able to resolve your issue with the popping thru the carb. I would be very interested to hear.

That's a lovely clear picture & a description that I've been looking for. Thank you. It goes against a lot of theory but obviously this is my problem. Now I have to decide how much of a bend to put in the plates

Thanks John, very interesting read of the old post. " the outer edges to have a "wave" pattern. " I still cannot visualise the wave

Just as a point of interest, the reason I replaced both the driven discs & the driving discs is that the clutch was grabbing before & the ones I took out were worn.

I agree in that the "unlined discs" should be flat, it's the lined discs that look "waved" in the photo which is causing me to question this.

I never thought about that. The driven discs are brand new. I would need to check the hub splines. Thank you for your input.

Hence my question, what is a radial wave?

If you look at the 2nd picture sent by jps you will see the driving discs that have a radial wave in them. My guess is that they are bent (for sake of words) in order to create a high & low area which would reduce the friction until fully released by the clutch pedal . It's this radial wave that I'm trying to confirm.

If its a multi plate then probably yes, did the lining plates have the radial wave in them?

Thanks Michael. This is very interesting. Does it say why it would need washing out or what the advantage would be. I will try & search for more info

Thanks JPS, yes I have the manual. The radial waves are not clearly visible

Thank you for this, I was almost thinking about adding a little oil as I remember motorbikes having multi plate clutches & they were always in oil.

Can anyone describe or show me what the radial waves in the driving disc look like on the 1929 multi plate clutch? My clutch is either off or fully on, very difficult to get it to slip.

Many thanks Hugh, That is the correct picture of my cyl head.

Hi Does anyone know what the torque setting should be on the cylinder head bolts on a 1929-25 6 cylinder standard engine?

Hi Brooklyn All is good with Jim. I had pulled away going downhill and as soon as I went into 2nd she let go and of course the clutch doesn't do anything as the wheels were still turning the transmission. Not the first time this has happened to me.

I have sent you an email Jim.