rocky5517
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Posts posted by rocky5517
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Thanx guys / I'm off and scrubbing !
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I know I've seen this issue before, but am I going to cause damage to hoses ( A/C especially) P/S hose, even radiator hose, by applying something like Armorall, WD 40, silicone, etc?
Any thought re trying to dress up the dashboard?
How about the rear shelf?
Thanks
Sam from Jersey
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Before and after, booster
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While chatting w/ Dewey, I asked him what else he could have re=plated, he said "send me the hood latch". Check it out. Turn around time about 3 weeks. White Post did the M/C- about a week
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A while back I asked Jason about the degree of difficulty on a certain task; I said, with 1 being a Sunday school meeting and 10 being a longshoreman's union meeting, on the profanity scale, where would I be on said project. He answer was accurate.
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67 Randy. I'll proceed with a tips and toothbrushes and leave well enough alone
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thanx Jason- maybe I'll continue with the Q-tips and toothbrushes. 40 yrs ago I had a 65 Bonneville convertible- I loved that car. I was screwing around with the ww transmision linkage and something broke; I could never get it right and ended up selling it. Try to find one today. And once we pass 7 on the profanity scale, things can get bad.
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Is it worth it to remove the entire ww washer assembly to give the firewall and the assembly a good cleaning and detailing? I see 3 bolts and the manual shows the same. what can go wrong?
Sam from Jersey
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Coach 23- these pix may help/ the veneer is really thin but mine wasnt' damaged ( until I got too aggressive with the blade); I got it clean, sanded it, got some Miniwax, will look for the color, then stained and sealed it. I'll look for the color and post it
Sam from Jersey
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I'm not sure anyone made replicas for the wood on 2nd gen cars. I peeled off a heavy clear coating from my console and touched it up with a colored wood pencil, then hit it w/ polyurethane. I'm satisfied but it's not a show car. I'll post some pix.
If you go to the 'advanced search" box at the upper right hand corner of thos page type in "wood grain repairs" and I bet you'll see other articles on the subjeck. Let me dig out the pix..
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I think you have to go to "notifications" at the top of the page. I see you already requested "friends" which I accepted, but I doubt you have to go to NJ for that kind of work. I should have said "notifications" instead of PM- this isn't Facebook, but Ill forward his info if you like
sam
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Both done under $600. I delivered and picked up. Little Falls NJ. Seems like most competent auto upholstery guys should be up to it but find s shop that likes to work on old cars. What state are you in? PM me and I'll give you the contact info
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It's mounted low on the firewall, driver's side. Access would be from underneath unless you've got real long arms, which I don't. Should have grabbed it when the car was up on the lift during trans work. And yes, I have another one, black plastic, drivers side, down low also.
Thx Pat
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I never knew that the upholstery of a bucket had so many parts/ the man who did the work gave me back the old components; he also painted the seat backs. I don't know if anyone tracks the writing on the rear of one of the parts but here it is anyway
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What is the correct name for that vacuum can, and does anyone have a clean one for sale?
Thx
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One thing I've learned owning a '67 is that there's not many parts that can't be had, nor are there many repairs that can't be done. I studied up on difference between 66 and 67 and because I got the impression that not all mechanics can work on nailheads I went with 67, and I'm really happy. I'm no mechanic but my close friend is an instructor for GM and loves working on my car. I've learned a lot, and I've been spending 2-3 hrs a few nites a week working on cleaning engine compartment and it's relaxing.
We've done water pump/timing chain/ carb/complete tune-up, and I had the trans rebuilt completely witha good warranty for around $ 2400 incl new flywheel.
Had to travel about 2 miles.
the A/C system went from R 12 to 134 and back to r-12; finding parts not hard and there's still guys who can pump up the R-12 with the right equipment although that's been the hardest issue . She runs cold.
Took a while to get the SS trim for the wheel wells but thru helpful members of this board it's done. So far, the hardest thing to find was the regulator, or "remote control linkage" for the drivers' side door relase. Darwin Falk sold me one.
So, I guess what I'm saying is, don't be afraid to buy one in need of repair. I can't comment on missing glass or missing seats etc ( my two front buckets got re-done and painted seat backs for $550- guy around the corner did them) but all in all go grab one that's road worthy and take it from there.
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Anyone have the bracket that goes under the radio? Pretty sure mine is missing.
thanks
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Old Italian saying; "When the snow melts, that's when you see the turds". True on so many levels.
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thanks Randy- I'll have a look
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Much thanks- I'll take a look. That makes sense.
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Does anyone have the exact length of the dipstick, from the bottom to the first notch? Book says she takes 5 qts but 4 1/2 brings me up to "full"
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Wow- I better look more closely.I bet I'm missing one.
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I would want a copper one for the engine compartment and don't care about the one under the trunk, or wherever the heck it is. I'll find that bugger sooner or later.
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I assume the grounding strap, engine block to firewall, is a stock item at any good auto parts store, correct? Same for the one in the rear, underneath, correct?
check out refurbished parts from Dewey Booster and White Post
in Buick Riviera
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The latch cost less than $30 but I had the booster and MC cap done at the same time. Great service