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rocky5517

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Posts posted by rocky5517

  1. Moe good tips; thanks to all. Re shop rags, whenever I have socks that are shot, I rip them, throw them in laundry, and they come out clean and not mistaken for good socks. They fit over your hand and I use them all over the house as wipers. Come in handy cleaning bathroom, etc, as well as wiping down dashboard and interior windows.

  2. Ed

    More great advice; thanks. I doubt I'll be dis-assembling engines but good point re scraping, grinding etc. I'm going to make an effort to fit that machine in my garage. As far as first aid, sometimes when I do a project on the car I'm tempted to include a "first aid report" for beginners like myself. For instance, getting under the interior dash to hook up the brake pedal after the booster was replaced can cause deep back contusions and minor knuckle scraping; I'd rate it "3 band aids" on a scale of 1 to 5. And don't forget the "profanity scale"; easy 4 on a scale of 5, for the first time anyway. 

  3. Thanx Jason. I have most of the hand tools, and I agree re Craftsman. There's a Sears down the road, and they happen to host a cruise show Sunday afternoons. If I see used tools, i.e. dwell meters, timing lights, etc, does one brand stick out? 

    My friend who helps me with repairs ( read "does repairs") is an instructor for GM and wants to give me his old "Sun" diagnostic machine. Since it's as big as a refrigerator I'm measuring my garage now to see if I can squeeze it in. If I can learn how to use it I'll be set. I learned a long time ago that when someone offers you something, take it.

    Sam

  4. Gentlemen

    I want to learn how to do basic work on 2nd gen 430, as well as other older cars I may come across. What should I start out buying, as relating to vacuum gauge/timing light, etc, other basic things? Any preferred manufacturers?  I'd rather buy a quality piece now instead of something that has to be upgraded later.

    Much thanks

    Sam from Jersey

  5. The dipstick just kind of sits in the hole, but there's a plastic washer in the block, if you look close. As Bob says, the small metal washer acts as a stop. So it just kind of sits there instead of locking or snapping into place.Maybe mine is wrong.

  6. On my 67 the dipstick, which I think is original, measures 20 1/4 " from end to end, including the curved part where your finger hooks and pulls it out. The part # is 1373406. It says "cap 4 qts". According to the shop manual, our engines capacity is " 3.3 to 4.2 qts - refill"  and 4.2-5 gts "dry engine". The higher numbers from each quote are for "with dry oil filter". Always wondered about those readings and why they're written that way.

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  7. Driving along the other nite, 35 mph, straight road, flat and steady, she craps out. I pull over, start it up, all is well. A street near home is a pretty steep incline so I punch it good, goes from 25 to 55 in about 5 seconds, as usual. Come home and make the left turn at maybe 20 mph- I goose it and she stalls again.

      Have to let it sit for 15 min, then I get her into the garage. Next day I take off the air cleaner, start her up, and see water dripping out thru the gasket that seperates carb from manifold, under the pass side screw adjustment. It seeps slowly, Then I see more water  2 " away, towards the driver side. It is a slow seep. I smell it and taste it- not gas, not anti freeze, just water.

    Today I disconnect fuel line at carb and draw off about 10 oz of gas- looks fine.

    I replace the fuel filter, which looks a little scashod, and she starts and runs fine. I notice the choke takes forever to open and I don't like the way the choke spring feels. Choke stays somewhat closed for a good 15 minutes ( car is heated up now) and after I spray cleaner in choke and work linkage back and forth it stays open . Its about 60 degrees here in Jersey- light rain.

    So here's my questions

    - by drawing off 10 oz of gas from the line at the carb, do I get a good sample of potential gas problems, like water or contamination?

    - shouldn't that choke spring back and forth when I work if manually?

    - carb was rebuilt 2 yrs ago, and I haven't put on more than 1500 miles. i wonder if something internal is wrong w/ carb?

    - I put new fuel  filter and 2 cans dry gas. Could it have been a lousy filter? Haven't road tested yet due to rain.

    - If choke spring is not right ( we replace it last year but I don't think it was the correct one) would the choke, if it stayed closed, choked out the engine while moving?

     

    Sorry for the long post

    Sam from Jersey

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  8. If you send your booster to Dewey, ask him to re-finish, with gold plate or phosphourus, any other parts that need to be done. He did, beside my booster, my hood latch and M/C cap. Now everything matches. Mine is a 67, and he knew which parts should be gold.

  9. Here in North Jersey Fisher Auto Trans rebuilt mine. It was no problem; they trotted out the seventy year old guy who said "Yup- switch pitch trans", and there was no problem at all. I needed a flex plate, which they got from Fatsco Transmission Parts, next town over. I think one is owned by the other, but Fatsco is known for finding old parts for transmissions.

    Fisher is 973 227 3452, Fairfield NJ. I think the guy in charge was Steve but not sure. Fatsco is the next town over; 973 227 2487.

    Call them before you do anything. If you're having trouble send me a pm and I'll go over there; I got to know them well.

    Sam

    ps they may remember doing my silver (Platinum Mist ) 67 last year.

  10. I think Ed's advice is well taken; many of us have gotten spoiled by buying misc items from, say, Amazon. You hit "buy now" and a day or two later it's at your front door. But finding parts for 50 yr old cars isn;t the same as buying deer repellant, so it pays to speak with a person when placing an order and make sure it's available. I learned this one the hard way so now I use the old telephone to confirm.

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