Pete K.
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Posts posted by Pete K.
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Hello cahartley, Where did you get the tubes and tires for your Dodge Brothers?
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At first I thought it was Dodge Brothers since the rim sure looks like one, even tho' the lens isn't Dodge, but I don't believe it is Dodge at all since Dodges clamped the headlight stanchion into a holder riveted on the fender, without a nut at bottom like yours. I also see you have a socket on very back of the bucket, whereas I believe the early Dodges only had a focusing screw there--no socket. I just sold a 1919-1922ish Dodge headlamp like what I'm talking about. The Dodges did have a bell-shaped bucket before they went to a drum type bucket in the early '20s.
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I've got two '31 & '32 Pontiac transmissions here and they don't look anything like your trans. I don't recognize your transmission. Sorry.
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A job well done! It looks MARVELOUS.
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Good luck finding anything BUT cheap tubes. Most ALL are made in Vietnam now out of recycled rubber, no quality control over there and the big vintage car tire dealers here in the U.S. don't check any of them before they are shipped to you. I just had to return 5 tubes for my '25 Dodge ($30.00 shipping on my part), after I found that the tubes were full of nasty defects in the rubber. I believe they were marked wrong too, since they were too small, but yet stamped for use on a 20"/ 21" rim.The older tubes were made with Butyl rubber, unlike the mixture used for the tire. They will hold up very well with age. The spot to look at is around the stem for age cracking. If you have old tubes, I strongly recommend using them.
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Love the hat!
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I think you did good buying that old Dodge. Congrats on the purchase! Do you plan to finish the paint job?, and what color? It appears it's in primer, which is porous and the steel will rust if not protected with a finish coat. What a fun car that is! and pre-war to boot! Those '39 Dodges were so smooth and quiet going down the road and a joy to drive. If you drive it in the rain and your windshield wiper won't keep up, try using "Rain-X" it works pretty good!
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John, I think those are the correct tools for the DH6, with exception of the tool bag. I think it's an older reproduction made for a Ford model A. I have one just like it. If you notice it's made from the long/short Cobra grain rubberized fabric. The same fabric Ford used on his tops. He used the trimmings from the upholstery shop to make up the tool bags. Thanks for your posting!---Pete.
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I just tried to look up the value on the NADA online classic vehicle guide. Apparently it's not a free listing anymore. Can someone maybe try this with more computer savvy than I? The guide used to show antique car values in 3 categories of condition. Thought it may help a bit.
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I had this problem once. The valves are sticking from old oil around them and the heat from your first running seized them up a bit. Like others have already said, remove the valve cover to see which ones are the big culprits and shoot some kerosene or carb spray (no floods!), on the stems. Remove all the plugs, work the stuck valve down by tapping with a hardwood dowel through the plug hole on face of valve. Use only wood! Use the engine crank to lift the valve will lift back up. Do this until no more "stick". Do each one. You'll find about half of them are sticking bad. When you think all is better, replace plugs and hand crank engine. You should feel the springiness in the hand crank for EACH cylinder on compression stroke.
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Yes John, and the YEAR you born too!--For the amount of wisdom and experience you have shown us on the AACA forums, you HAVE to have 745 yrs. of knowledge. Best regards and a friendly rib, Pete.
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I remember my 1930, Series 40, Model 47 had the exact same shape on that piece of sheet metal. It was a low mileage original, in good shape! I think it was made that way. My tools/ jack & handle, were under the front seat cushion.
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I've been running my pre-war cars on regular gas here, where they "say" it has 10% ethanol in it. It's really like 15% as I found out. It WILL separate from the gas if left sitting for more than a week. I do add some Marvel Mystery Oil to the gas. Seems to work for me. Your local airport sells REAL gas, as planes can't pull over when the ethanol stops the engine up there. Best bet is to also make sure your timing is set correctly.
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Your Boyce Motometer has a logo that says "Standard" on the front of it. This is not the Boyce Motometer's company logo, that I've ever been aware of. That company sold many of them, as "senior" or "junior" models. I believe it came off an early truck called a "Standard". I've not looked this up, I only am hearing the ringing bell, (Standard/old truck). I once owned a pair of Boyce motometers in the original boxes, along with the instruction pamphlet, instructing the new owner, (with pictures), to tap the stem on a tire to get the red fluid back down whereas it can flow up the glass tube during shipping or storage laying down flat. I would go with Marty or Dave's recommendations to do this. I can't tell if the "wings" are old or not. Don't try to use pliers to straighten out the threaded rim of the cap. They are very brittle and will break. Good luck, Pete.
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Count me in for Layden B's guess as Buick.
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Yes, That is an electrical connector to an old code breaking machine. (NOT REALLY)! I'm not even sure it's automotive military. Gotta hand it to you for this one!!! I'll be watching to see if ANYONE can come up with it's use.
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Thanks Ray, I enjoyed the tour. It appears he has an "enthusiastic" pinstriper for his trucks! Very nice collection, indeed. I guess we'll never know where an antique Dodge will show up. I liked the trains.
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Just a thought, I was under the impression that the earlier Watson's did not use the potmetal innards, like on the Packards of that time, 1927-ish. I can't verify this at this time though, sorry.
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Those spring bolts are a work of ART! Good going!
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ply33 may be on the right track. Sometimes a starter bolt is missing it's lockwasher or the starter bolts have different lengths, whereas, one may be going into the housing too far and hitting the flywheel. I've seen this scenario before on a Ford. Also, I've seen fasteners and broken pieces in the bottom of the flywheel housing, hitting flywheel as it turns. There are certain tricks to retrieve these pieces if you need to do so. Sometimes a telescoping magnet tool will not work. there are other ways.
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The truck is a cleaned up WWII revamp (at the time), with '35 Ford wires on it. No one could get the 19" tires during the war. Brush painted, a farm truck out of New Hampshire originally. The "baloney skin" spare is the 19" factory original. My real spare is in the bed. I still keep the old N.H. inspection sticker on the windshield, along with the Mass. sticker. If I ever have a "T", your 1919 tourer would be the one I'd want. It is really nice.
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Well, Here's the little truck with the big heater. It's sort of like an enclosed bumper car. Luckily, the Autolite heater cover comes right off when it's summer. I sure do like your set of cars!! Hope you keep the "A" tudor the way it is. Looks great! I thought I'd better insert a photo of my '25 Dodge so as the moderator doesn't kick us off and tell us to scoot on over to Fordbarn.com. Old Fords are fun.
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ah HA! You DO know how well those crazy things work! I don't know what body style your "A" is, but in my pickup, I have to roll the doggone windows down on a December day when the "blow torch" Autolite door is open. It's immediate heat too, which is a good thing. I installed one of those aftermarket oil filler/breather flex tubes and ran the breather tube down to the hole in the top of the drivers side motor mount, just to insure no fumes spoil my day. Having your engine splash pans in place make a huge difference too. Unfortunately, my heater for the Dodge was pulled off a parts car somewhere along the way and it's borderline junk. If I was to spend countless hours restoring it, I don't think it would come close to the Ford heater. I also have another Model A, (for years an on-going project), has an "OTWELL" heater. It's a strange bird, whereas it is one single piece of cast iron, making up both, the manifold and the heat exchanger. The trick is to have the right heater DOOR for these type of heaters. By luck I have them. Most of them stayed on the cars being junked, but the engines/heater manifolds were saved somehow. The reproductions they sell today don't really fit nor work as efficient as the real McCoy's
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If you keep your car on the road all year, as I do with my '31 Model A pickup, You'll be glad you have some sort of heat going on. The Ford uses an original Autolite manifold heater which is a lifesaver in Oct.--on thru Spring here North of Boston around the Cape Ann area. My '25 Dodge is an open touring, no windows (no curtains either) and NO heater! They DID put that front heater grill in a strange place, right at the passenger's feet albeit nowhere else to put it I guess. I just can't picture myself wearing one of those huge raccoon coats with a hat pulled down over my head. I think the Dodge shall be a fair weather driver when I finally get it on the road.
ID Garnish Trims
in What is it?
Posted · Edited by Pete K. (see edit history)
Not earlier Buick. not 1929-1931.