Pete K.
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Posts posted by Pete K.
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I pray for those kid's safety. I'll keep an eye out for the car if they decide to take a big, long right turn.
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Thanks John, I know I don't have that bumper... sorry.
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If you could shoot a picture of the one piece bumper... I've got a pile of old bumpers here in the yard. I don't know what they all go to. They are one piece.
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I don't have plates on my '25 Mike, BUT, beware of other folks measurements, as the plates could have been placed on the car by someone else who thought they knew where they go, or felt "this is the place" where they go. Sort of like buying shoes. I like my neighbor but I wouldn't let him pick out my sneakers............... My SUGGESTION is to step in a puddle of water, then without dwelling on your foot placement now; get in your car as you feel it natural where your foot is located on the running board. THAT is where you put your step plate. Do this at each door. Mark with chalk before the water dries. Hope this helps.
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Here you go Mike. A bit rusty with it being a parts lamp for the '25, but the clips, flat spring and other parts all there. The outer nickel rim has the brackets inside it to align with the bucket "hooks" shown in photos. Press hard equally down on rim and turn rim CCW 10 degrees to lock it under the hooks and reflector. Voila.
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You're right Ray, the old gasoline did smell OK whereas new gas has a sharp stinging odor to it. (sort of like alcohol???) If you miss the old days, go to your local airport and sniff around-- they don't put alcohol in avgas, they know the problems it causes and it's hard to pull over on the side of a cloud when you have engine problems.
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It's all relative. Years ago when there was "real" gas at the stations, the turn over was the same, if not faster since more folks were driving bigger,thirstier cars and prices were much more in-line with income versus fuel cost then. Do you remember the whole family going out for long drives, just to do something and see the sights? The temperature changes with the gas and the storage units are the same today, condensation would be the same. Water will appear in those tanks. I'm sure some stations still pump out the condensate, but they must be doing it when I'm snoring in the middle of the night, OR.. it's mixing with the gasahol and we're getting it pumped into our cars! One or the other. The latter I suspect...
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In a coupe, I would imagine rubber mat. The design? dunno. Doubt anyone repro's it.
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Heat shields are being installed on many antique vehicles lately I've noticed. A marked improvement in many cases, the modern fuel not being the entire culprit in my opinion. The boiling point of poor, modern fuel is different from pure gasoline. The alcohol content in our fuel mixes with water and will separate from the fuel itself if left standing for a certain period of time. I have seen this separation in the vertically mounted glass sediment bowls of antique vehicles. The water is of course, found in the fueling station's tanks many times, as condensate, since less care is being taken to test tanks for it and remove it. When I was younger, I used to watch a man who owned a station use a long wooden pole with a strip of Litmus paper attached to the end of the pole. He would then lower the pole down into each underground tank and test for water at the bottom. The Litmus would turn a different color if it touched water, but not fuel. If water was a factor, he would then use a small hand crank pump with a long hose attached, to pump out the water from his tanks into a small bucket. I do not see this procedure taking place anymore. I do know the higher alcohol content in today's fuel is mixing with this water and being pumped right out through the dispensing pumps into your car. The aftermath is a non-running engine or a poor running engine. To make an exhaust system "glow red" is a definite indication of the engine's timing set too retarded while driving.
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Note the headlamp reflections in the left front fenders of the two Dodges. The lacquer paint has not dulled yet. The paint is very shiney, if indeed it is 1925 or '26 when photo was taken. They look like '25 Dodges to me. Many new cars were shipped by railcar to cities around the country. Could be a rail accident that contained these cars.
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I think your best bet would be to send the rods out to the lathe. I couldn't imagine the shipping fees on one of those lathes, or lathe attachments. Sorry I only know you and Ray across the pond. There are many old car machine shops here in the States that can cut the proper grooves in Babbitt. I once saw a set of rods that the owner(?) hand cut the grooves and it was not pretty. Thanks "robert b" for chiming in on this too.
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I sure can't blame you for trying anything on your own, especially these days of very high labor charges. Plating shops around here are disappearing all the time too, with the U.S. Dept.'s "EPA". I'm all for keeping a clean earth, but the EPA fees and guidelines with platers seems to be out of whack with reality. The old, "pass it on to consumer" is getting at the breaking point I think. Some cars just won't be restored, and possibly junked. When I say "junked", I mean "gone". No more old cars sitting in a big field anymore for us to pick over or even pull home to restore. Ahemm, Well, This is getting WAY off track here, sorry. Ray, keep on doing what you're doing! again, good job!--Pete.
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Very nice Ray! You do good work. A lot of the old nickel plated cars had a re-chrome done for cheap money back in the very early thirties. It was called "keeping up with the Jones". Nickel was OUT and chrome was IN. The same holds true for folks painting their old oak iceboxes white. "It looked newer", and was similar to the new G.E. electric Monitor Top. An old timer in the plating business told me about the radiator replating in chrome over 40 years ago.
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Your Dodge Brothers babbitt NEEDS the X cut in them. You can google Model A Ford babbitt bearings too, they also needed the X cut. A few horror stories exist with new rebuilds without the X, owner had to re-do the engine after a failure in a few short weeks. Don't be misled by aftermarket configurations and modern shell inserts which are of a different material to boot. Go to; jandm-machine.com. Or call John at 508-460-0733. Those guys are the very best in the antique & classic car engine rebuilding. They've also done some very unique marine engine rebuilding. I think you'd get a kick out of their website.
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Those are great pictures of your Dodge. I hope to get mine on the road shortly. (not near as nice). I too, swap out my rad cap on my little Ford "A" pickup. It's an original "Wiggler" cap, made by the Wiggler Co., Buffalo, New York. I found it in a barn many, many years ago. I don't believe I have a spare "plain Jane" cap for the Dodge.
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Sounds like little Dodge gremlins to me Jay. I actually left the desk in my shop here and took walk to far end of barn with a screwdriver to check my tank screws on my '25 that I re-did about a year ago, using a cork gasket, with the little tiny bits of black rubber intermixed with the cork that I must have got from Myer's Early Dodge parts--- no loosies! It's GOT to be Gremlins in Ct.
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With ammeter showing discharge, the horn motor is most likely spinning, but not making contact with steel diaphragm inside of horn. First try loosening rear adjusting lock nut at rear of horn body, turn "in" adjusting screw while a helper presses horn button and see if you get an Aaooooga. If still no sound, follow BretK's advise.
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Rw and Ray, When you go to shim your cap, try using "gaskets", or shims, if you will, made out of discs cut out of the sides of gallon plastic water jugs. It seems to be the right thickness and hot water won't affect it. (And they're free!).
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Ray, try using shims under the cap gasket to get it to tighten down at the proper setting you're striving for.
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Pure water won't lead to any build up of "crud" unless you already have a cruddy cooling system. It will lead to rusting tho'. I run water with 6 oz. of Bar's brand water pump lube/anti-rust all season long with no issues. It was 97 degrees in the shade here today and I had no overheating or burping out water from the overflow either in my '31 Model A pick-up. I have a new core from Berg's Radiator and a good water pump. I didn't overheat with the original 82 year old radiator, but I was on borrowed time with that poor thing. In really cold weather I drain half out and add Sierra antifreeze which won't foam. I drive it all year long. I don't hold any belief in the radiator flow test using the rubber ball stuck in the outlet pipe trick. it is total bunk.
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Mike, as for temp increase after shutting down, yes, temp goes up for a short bit then starts cooling off. It sounds to me you're at the border line of a cooling system problem. I can think of a dozen things right off the top of my head about this situation. Timing, operator driving habits on hot days, too much spark retard, rust/crud in back of block and/or radiator, collapsed hose, rusted away water pump impeller, loose belt, wrong coolant mixtures, grease in system, It really boils down, (ha!, good pun here), to the "radiator" in most situations I've found. I've seen cracked overflow tubes, top tank water deflector missing or bent up, tubes partially clogged, bad cap/gasket and frequently, fins broken loose from the tubes in the core. That seems to be the leading cause. Not enough heat transfer by the radiator core itself.
Most old cars have a water level that will find itself, by burping out more than it will tolerate, IF everything is known to be in good shape. Usually the level is right at the top tank water deflector. Mike, I see you say your '25 has a honeycomb core? I have not seen this on a '25 Dodge before. I have the straight tube/fins core and spare Dodge cores with straight tubes. I know General Motor's cars in that era and later on used honeycomb cores along with some others. Could it be an early re-core? They ARE good cores, but fragile as they are, they cannot be rodded out as the water path through them zig-zags. At least you need not worry about broken loose fins from the tubes!
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Juan, Splash pans are important for cooling and electrical bonding for engine ground. They also keep boulders out of your carb's intake. Tests have shown that straight water is a better heat transfer than a mixture of water/antifreeze in our old cars. Removing your hood is one way to let out the high heat while going very slow in a parade only. I wouldn't clamp down the advance lever at any time. Refer to your owner's manual for the '27 for adv./ retard positions, as it may be different than my '25. Never start the engine unless you're in FULL retard pos. Engine very well may kick back and damage will occur to your Bendix drive or your starter armature shaft will bend, or both. Follow the manual's instructions to the letter. Happy motoring!, Pete.
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Juan, I think the old cars DID have some overheating problems in a HOT day like you describe, going at a slow pace, even way back when. I won't even get into talking radiator condition and rust scale in the block in an 85 yr. old car. I know folks that have spent $1000. on their cooling system and it would still run at the top of the moto-meter scale in a very hot parade. Yes, a cooling fan would help if you could engineer it right. Just make sure you run with the spark advanced properly & idle isn't too fast. At slow speeds, only the fan is doing any cooling, other than the radiator fins that hopefully are all still soldered to the tubes in the core. Once some of the fins break loose from the tubes, heat is not transferred away from the tubes. The engine splash pans are also another step in cooling and act as a partial shroud to channel the air past the engine and out the back. Without them, air is very turbulent in engine compartment from air coming up from under and hot air sits there under the hood.
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Rear axle shims are used when the axle nut is torqued up properly and the drum rubs the backing plate.
1925 Dodge Sedan Back Seat Heater
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
Posted · Edited by Pete K. (see edit history)
I don't know about the firm "Bovey", but I have a cast iron heat exchanger out of an early Dodge brothers car. The control rod has a detent "jaw" to set the amount of heat sent through the unit from exhaust pipe. All the grills I've seen have a hand operated sliding affair in the cabin to adjust heat flow. Usually a round outflow grill in rear floor that part of it turned to adjust air and a rectangular sliding type slotted grill in the front floor. Inside the cast iron heat exchanger has a butterfly valve like a carburetor would have. A pretty hefty thing at best. I do believe the hot air heaters were offered by the dealers back then, some were added later from the independent parts jobbers. I don't think Dodge actually made any of these heaters.