Pete K.
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Posts posted by Pete K.
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Mike, yes, it IS a big mess with the little cover off and car running. Obviously Dodge of '25 has no problem with front oil circulation. Your question is a good one... the water pump gear will have to have a bit of backlash, .003" to be exact.
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Good advice so far, maybe remove the thermostat completely and see what happens on a hot day.
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Starting RPM??---Anything over zero RPM to make a spark and pull in mixture to the cylinders. Ever try hand cranking an engine? "It works".
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I have two engines with tranny's, this one shown missing water pump & fan. $350. Another one taken apart but in good shape, no carb. or top water connector. $450. I cannot ship. Pick up in Danvers, Ma.
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An engine swap?
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Hi Griffin69, I believe you have a 1925 Dodge Brothers Deluxe Roadster, (series of 1926). Perhaps one of the nicest ones around too. The cylinder head number you show in one photo does not identify the year of the car. The engine number is on the flat area of the engine block, just above the carburetor. The only "true" way to date your car is the number stamping on the frame, on the passenger's side, just above the leaf spring hanger behind the front wheel. It will read, A- XXXXXX.(six digits) The car is definitely not a '22, as the rear fenders are completely different on the '22. I have a pair here. The wheel size was larger too on the '22's. Yours appears to have 21" rims. P.S., your English is just fine. Best regards, Peter.
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I see that the engine is using the earlier type starter/generator with the fuse on the rear and cable on rear also, like the '22 had. The '25 model "GA" has the fuse on front top body along with the cable on connection on rear "side' of starter/gen. Neither the '22 nor the '25 has the oil filler tube like the one I see in your picture. Carburetor and vacuum tank looks correct for the '25. Vacuum tank fuel shut off is '25. Right side engine view is exactly like my '25 engine, WITH the flywheel inspection hole for timing purposes. (cover plug is missing in photo). only the spark plug wire holder on manifold is different, could be a home-brew set-up. Your 4-blade fan is 1925-1926-, the '22's all had a 6 blade fan. Anyway, I've seen PLENTY of typo's, (errors), on vehicle paper work. Best to check your vehicle number which is on the frame side behind the front right wheel, usually above the spring hanger. It can be very hard to read, since Dodge stampings were light and a restorer may have sanded down number even more and painted over it again.
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If frame number is the same as toe board number, A646559 would be a May 15,1926 build. (My '25 is # A388850, a 1925 build for the 1926 SERIES, with 12 volt positive ground system.) The mounting stud for the fan would be on the engine block for 1922, later engines had the fan stud on the cylinder head. Your car's body style would be considered a "Roadster", not a two-door, here in this country. Perhaps a "two-door Roadster" would be a satisfactory description. Your car has a 116 inch wheelbase, 2 passenger, weighs 2,432 LBS., The Rated load for your car is 1000 Lbs. Cylinder bore is 3-7/8" with a 4-1/2" stroke, horsepower rated at 24.03, (but develops 30-35 "brake h.p.", not used in registering car.) I was under the assumption all '26 Dodges went over to the 6 volt system and did away with the "starter/generator". the engines used a different manifold that also incorporated an air filter. Can someone please back this up?
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Cars in that good of shape, original as I may say, are very hard to find now and in the future. Most of the "cruise nights" around here anyway, are filled with newer cars and fiberglass hotrods. I'm getting bored to tears looking at the hundreds of them. You've got a real antique car there and I'll bet you'll have a ball driving it around town. Roll-up windows and a heater!! I'm envious!
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I've done 3 of those carbs so far. Most of the time, you won't need anything more than a new gasket set. Soak parts in Berrymans carb cleaner gallon can overnight, or a bit longer, scrub loose crud away and wash parts in kerosene, replace bent screws and bolts, DON'T use any metal wires or drills in the jet orifices! toothpick OK, nylon brushes. Any broken parts can be repaired at your shop or call Myers Dodge Parts for original parts if needed. I believe he has some stashed away.
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I'll stay with my dusty rusty originals any day. All the power to the owner though, for his hard work. I hope he enjoys it.
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That's got to be one of the cleanest I've ever seen! You're very lucky to latch onto it, a big congratulations!! Post more pic's!
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Looks great! That is one big frame. I know what you mean by not getting that paint on your skin. Nothing takes that off. Once while using that paint on a frame I was doing, I knew enough to use rubber gloves, BUT--it was a hot, humid day, I was wearing shorts and leaned into the frame paint with my shin. For 2 months, people thought I had some kind of weird tattoo or a strange black birthmark on the side of my leg. At least I didn't ruin a pair of long pants!
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I don't have a magneto on my cars here, so I have to ask, do you folks that have a mag, do you also have a choice with the dash switch, like the Ford T, to switch it to battery ignition only? Does the problem subside then? Ray, I remember the mags have a tiny drill mark in the large gear to mate with the small driven gear so the MAG is timed right... Is that OK?
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Yes Jay, disconnect at engine bay instead of behind dash if you don't want your floor boards well lubed. When I blew out my oil feed tube, I didn't see anything but a few drops of clean oil exit.
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When using compressed air to blow out the oil feed tube, you must disconnect the line at the oil pressure gauge. Very likely you will spring the gauge assembly with the air pressure.
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Glad to hear of your success Ray! Did the back firing cease too? ---Pete.
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Ray, This has to be either one or more of your high tension leads leaking past the manifold wire clamp, where they are very close to the iron itself, then jumping to ground. At a high or higher RPM, one can not always tell when one cylinder's plug becomes grounded. There was also a 1920's tech note I remember reading about a Dodge engine grounding problem between the distributor housing and mounting flange. It was noted to mechanics to run a separate wire for a better ground at that point. I don't believe things there were changed in '26, even though they went over to 6 volts and other generator changes. I must agree with post #2 & #3. Last resort, call an exorcist.
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It's called Bernoulli's Principle. Air speed increases, (in a venturi here), the pressure drops with the temperature also. The carb will feel cold and you may see frost on carb with the ambient air just right. Ray, your '26 hot air feed is quite different than the earlier set up. Your '26 also has the air filter. Although the miles I've put on old cars without air filters, I've not seen any difference in engine wear or polluted oil in a faster rate, probably since the cars are driven infrequently enough and most all roads are paved. I've looked around my barn and yard yet cannot find even a rusty spare heat tube for a '25 or earlier Dodge. I'm sort of surprised since many early Dodge parts are around here. I did find the remnants of an early Dodge Brothers manifold heater and control linkage.
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I wish to heck I took a photo of that heat tube the day I had the valve covers off. I don't seem to have any set screw on manifold to help keep tube steady while installing it. There's not much more to it, other than the "angle" of the tube & the diameter of each end which could be seen on the manifold and the valve cover openings of the Dodge.
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Here's a picture of the heat tube installed on the engine. The notch is at the top of the seamed tube, not the bottom. Tube fits into the cast iron opening of the manifold and is held by the two valve covers. Believe me, it's not an easy task to install it when replacing the valve covers. There is just no room to finagle the valve covers over their wing nut studs and overlap the rear cover onto the front cover while trying to get the heat tube to stay put with the notched seam in the right place.
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Yes, Pokes through the valve cover's only a short bit. I think they made the tube slightly oval so that it doesn't rotate and fall off it's mounting flange on exhaust manifold. There is no clamp on this tube. The lower notch in the tube rests on the two valve cover's openings. It seems a very likely "rattle trap" when car is in operation.
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Joe, I'm thinking the wire may have caught somehow at one end and got coiled up tight while turning the wheel at some point in time, then "un-wound" to a point which would possibly leave the wire looking like that. I've never seen anything like that before either! Very strange indeed. ---Pete.
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My '25 has the horn shaped oval tube from the bottom center of the manifold then passes through the valve covers, about an inch, at the center of the block. There it stops. the entire bottom edge of the sheet metal tube has a spot welded rib seam with a notch in it to help stabilize the tube once it's in place with the valve covers holding it. It is extremely difficult to get everything back in place when having to have the valve covers off. I can see why many are missing. At one point, I wanted to chuck the blasted thing across my yard. I believe the tube itself was painted black gloss enamel, or lacquer. Without this tube, I don't see how the carb could ever get enough hot air on start up, or rather warm up.
Exhaust Manifold "SPARKING"
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
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Pulch what?? OK, you woke me up. Your problem on loss of power & backfiring is NOT the vacuum tank in entirety. If you think you are not getting fuel to the bottom section of the tank, you will soon eventually burn up what's left in the float bowl, and "run out of gas". The engine will virtually die quietly and coast to the side of the road, hopefully. Owning Ford Model A's, I am guilty of forgetting to turn the cabin fuel cock "on" a few times and within 100 yards the little Ford, (not so much different than our Dodge engine), quietly dies. I turn on the valve and she starts right up. No coughing, backfiring or long moments of loss of power. I do believe you have other problems, possibly a combination of the big three, "spark-fuel- compression" Installation of another type fuel pump is not necessary and a waste of resources. I think it may be the carb you have Ray.--Just a guess. Please don't take this as sniffy. ---Pete.