Pete K.
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Posts posted by Pete K.
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Mike, I know your problem with the crappy looking number stamps available to most of us here. This should be nicely done since it is in direct view to all. How about going to your local trophy dealer/maker?? I'll bet they can do a nice job for short money too.
P.S.-- for those of you who don't know about the '25 Dodge plate, it's right at the front passenger's toes! Not on a firewall or out of sight most of the time.
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A very nice truck Binky! Looks like someone spent a lot of time and work fitting all new wood, and a good job at that. The serial # has to be found to be sure of what year the truck is. It does look very correct to me, as far as an older restoration goes. Most of these old trucks were worked to death and I'm surprised any of them are left today. You're lucky you have a spare vacuum tank laying in the back. It is period correct Stewart tank. The coil has been by-passed with a newer one on firewall, not uncommon to see this. I would replace that coil-to dist. wire SOON. Hopefully you have the crank hole cover. I see it is off in your picture, probably using the crank at the time. Don't leave the cover off, as the whole interior of the crankcase is open to mouse-houses and who knows what, to get into your engine's lower end. What are your plans on "fixin' her up"? Windex and a rag is all I would do for "cosmetics"!!! Very cool truck.
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Ok Let's not get crazy with the heat now!! PLease explain this, you guys about the sun, UV rays, etc... on pot metal. On many old cars I've owned, let's take just the ones from the 20's & '30's; I've removed pot metal door handles that have been out in the sun and weather for decades to the point the plating is all but gone- None were swollen and cracked. some were snapped off, but the part of the handle that's been INSIDE the door panels was swollen, and cracks apparent, with nice chrome still on most of that section of the handles. Hmmmm. ALSO, many of my antique jukeboxes that I restore from the 1930's & 40's which uses an abundance of pot metal for the outer trim, from top to bottom and has been exposed to decades of bright sunlight, 99.9% is not decayed. BUT! I found a table top 10 cent, non-electric arcade machine that looked great from the outside, but when I opened it, (no light inside, mind you), the pot metal gears and levers were so far gone, they looked like a box of Ritz Crackers after being run over by a 1925 Dodge. SO... I THINK the pot metal decay problem is not heat or sun exposure at all. It may be the "Intergranular corrosion" of the piece itself, as it also depends on the metallurgical makeup of the pot metal manufacturer. There are definitely better grades of pot metal. Some "junker" machines I've hauled to the dump had to be broken up first, whereas I could sometimes crush pieces of pot metal with my bare hand, (boy, I feel like Hercules!), others I've smacked with a hammer and couldn't bust 'em!
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Thinking back now, I had an all original 1930 Buick mdl. 47 series 40 sedan and it did not have fender welting that showed.
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A good coat of paint and your daily prayers. This is why pot metal is so darned cursed. I've been dealing with that stuff for more years than I can remember with the likes of my other venture--antique amusement machines and jukeboxes. You are lucky you even have that nice wiper motor in one piece in 2013!!!! Best, Pete.
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I just don't know for certain. My car was "gussied up" with a black and green paint job most likely in the 1960's. I will however stand by my thought as not all cars had welting that was visible. I'm not certain my fenders were ever off the car either. You pose a very good question!
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8K sounds too high, judging from what you post & what I see. $4500 would be the top I would think.
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Mike, 'got to thinkin' about that noise again and it occurred to me that you had the engine front cover off, could it be that a longer cover bolt went back in perhaps in the wrong place and it's clicking against the chain, or... This wouldn't be the first time I've seen (or rather heard) this happen!
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Thank for posting this John. I really enjoyed looking and BOY, do I wish I had access to those great, old car tire machines!!!
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Hi Ray, I have very thick skin--and I've heard it all. My uncle "Mac", (Wilbur K.) from Matamoras, Pennsylvania, flew 34 bombing missions over Germany. He lived to tell about it. He was with the 339th Squadron,96th bombing group, 8th Air Force (Army Air Corps). he flew as Captain, a Boeing # B17F-45-00. Serial# 42-3322. I don't know what airfield he was stationed at in England. He had his share of the dreaded German 77MM "flak". I had a piece of it that he brought back after the war.
Do you think it is possible to fabricate a slightly smaller threaded collar to go in place of the original crank hole and then find the same smaller, good looking steel crank cover that will screw into that? I'm running out of ideas!
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Yes indeed, A manifold leak will produce a backfire with the right conditions. Those right conditions are quite abundant too.
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Ray, I'm 5th generation American, Does that entitle me to "Native" American yet? Mom's side of family from England originally. Dad's side is 3rd generation German. This is why I'm always in turmoil with myself. Getting back to the crank hole situation, another home brew would be to acquire an expandable rubber & steel pipe plug, the kind plumbers use to close off an un-used pipe, maybe buried in a foundation wall. It has two steel washers with a shaft in the center and hex nut with the tapered rubber "cork" in between. When wrenched up, it expands and plugs well. It would look like the Dickens on the car but that hole needs to be sealed up well when driving. Without a seal there, it's a direct entrance to the bottom end of motor and will spew oil like no tomorrow when running. This I'm sure you know.
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Replacement rotors can be had from Myers Early Dodge parts or Romar's. (found on Web). They are very pricey, and I don't knock it since it is a strange bird and I can't think of another car that used that rotor. You may end up purchasing a whole, rusty distributor unit that has a good rotor in it and come out cheaper. I'm not sure if the vendors sell brand new ones or rebuilt ones.
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Believe it or not, I've had good luck using a small Dremel type tool with a small cut-off wheel, !/2" dia. or so, and carefully go around the threads in the crank hole body to help restore damaged threads. Also, if you can find a plug the same size/thread as your crank hole COVER, cut a small notch into the threads perpendicular with a hack saw, so as to make a "self tapping" screw out of it. Then thread it into the body and you may have luck restoring the body threads. These are just ideas of a man with very shallow pockets.
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Are you positive you don't have a vacuum leak somewhere either around manifold or exhaust pipe connection? The backfire at shut-down sure sounds to me like there is a leak of air getting in.
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Do I have the only '25 Dodge with these clamp screw dots? They would be the same size as Mike's holes in the doors. I know of no wiring in the Dodge doors in that era, also "turn-a-cators" were never required in this country, unless car was imported with them. I doubt this is the case.
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I can't agree more with trimacar. I have noted that many of my old "barn finds" had wrong replacement brake linings put on the shoes. They were the hard, asbestos moulded linings. These would gloss over for one thing, and less forgiving on irregular worn drums. The only type lining that should be on these early cars are the woven material type, sometimes referred as Scandinavian linings with brass fibers interwoven in them. These ARE available today, along with the brass rivets for them.
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Years ago, tire sales houses offered seconds for a lower price. I believe this practice is now gone. May still be able to purchase whitewalls that are "blemished" for cheaper money. The tire you show, is history.
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Mike, I don't see any welting at all. There maybe a strip of friction tape between the fender & body where it mates up. Let me know if you need a photo of this assembly,---Pete.
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One thing I've not seen mentioned, are you making sure you have the steering wheel mounted spark advance lever fully in the "retard" position when timing?
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OK, A little bit more investigation tells me these are not side curtain snaps, as I mentioned there was no flare on them to join to a female half. These things are TENSIONERS. They get turned with a screwdriver to lock in the upright curtain rods. If one looks down the rod socket, there is a split in the metal tube where it acts as a space to open and close a tiny bit to hold the side curtain rods in the sockets! Who would've figgurred? I don't know why your doors seem to have the sockets away from them?
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"Don't weld up those holes"!!! Judging the originality of my '25, there are these brass fasteners in those holes. They are presumed to be for the curtains, I haven't fitted the original ones I have for the car onto it yet since I am missing the 4 upright rods that go in the door sockets.. These "fasteners" I photographed for us don't seem to have any flare to them, as I photo'd one from above to show the straight sides of the little guy. They have a screw slot in each one, they are blind from the inside of doors.
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Some noises like that can be a worn camshaft thrust bearing, allowing the cam to walk front to rear with an irregular tick or thud. That can be heard at the front of the engine. It sure sounds like a busted link on chain though. It's hard to say when I can't hear it myself. If you're running the engine without the crank hole cover on, you can hear everything going on in the crankcase. It's a direct opening to the bottom end. Have you checked the fan belt for any delaminations? I hope it's one of those simple things.
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There's that word again... Where be my Funk & Wagnall? Yes, I understand the experimentation with the electric pumps. I had one on my '27 Packard for a while until I bit the bullet and "fully" restored the vacuum tank. No need ever again for the electric pump and it was still working fine, years later when I sold the car. I guess I should thank my lucky stars when I restored the vac. tank on my '25 last year, she works the bomb. There's not much to it. It only uses engine vacuum to operate the tank and fill it a quarter way with fuel, plenty enough to keep the tiny float bowl happy. As long as Earth has gravity...
Engraver for new toe board plate?
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
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I have used the regular, cheapie number stamps before on plates that are on a firewall tag (a tag that is not factory), as I don't counterfeit auto numbers, but the font used on the great big fancy Dodge plate really does need to be done properly, as you know. Make sure they get the number right the first time!