Pete K.
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Posts posted by Pete K.
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It is only a small sleeve about 1-3/4" long that is rotated by hand for more or less opening in air tube. It has a slot and a dimple that rides tightly in a small slot in air tube. You could make one up pretty easily in a pinch. I don't see these for sale by themselves, usually, it is still on an old carb. I don't think I have a shot of one in my photo file but I can get some if someone doesn't do that sooner. Last fall, when I had my '25 started up, I, too, noticed frost on the iron part of the carb. The air tube was only cracked open a bit and frost went away when engine warmed. That part of the carb is just outside of the big venturi of the Dodge carb and I suspect this was a common occurrence back in the day. It has to do with some Law of Nature, air speed increases, (in the venturi), temperature drops, or something like that. Frost will form. I believe this is why aircraft air foils ice up without de-icing devices in place.----Pete.
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Yes, It's one thing if they opened a box with a Sterling silver flying goddess or a box with just some nuts and bolts or king pins.
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Ray, I'm not quite sure what rumbled means. By whom? 27dodger, I think the grade 8 bolts would work just fine if not better than some replacement studs. I would cut off the heads and finish the ends for studs. This is probably what you do anyway.
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There is a way around those charges. A friend in the States buys the parts and forwards them to G.B., marked as one dollar's worth of "parts" on the international customs form. Payment and shipping would be figured out between both parties.
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Did you say SNOW?!!!! Wow! Tomorrow, here in NEW ENGLAND is shorts and tee shirt weather. (finally). I'm wondering, Ray, do you think one of those modern type exhaust "doughnuts" would work OK with our Dodges? Getting the counter clerk to help would be nice since I don't know yet the actual size. I know the exhaust pipe is 2" dia. It would most likely take up some space between manifold and pipe that may not agree with the clamping device. I suppose longer bolts would be needed only.
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Ray, I'm not sure how to measure the back pressure and correlate that with factory spec's. on something 85 years old. Most all low-compression engine antique cars only require a "close to" tolerance back pressure by inspecting original literature, parts books, etc... to find what the original system would appear as. Some Model A Ford folks have discussed this topic in length on the "Fordbarn" website. My main objective when replacing an old system is to make one appear neat and clean using as much original looking pipes and muffler one can do. Safety is a prime concern among all of us, (I hope). The old "Flextube" piping has been illegal here for many years in an exhaust system. It's OK in an oil breather system though. I recall as a kid, I had a complete system made up myself for a '39 Plymouth using flextube pipe. This is a topic I will be keen to research soon, as my '25 will need a new muffler.
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Ray, In all naturally aspirated engines, correct back pressure is necessary to have engine run correctly. Think of it as a hydraulic fluid. The exhaust gasses have to go somewhere after leaving the cylinder. A muffler, or pipe system that is sooted up and partially blocked will have trouble exhausting the gasses and high fuel consumption will occur. It may also act as an EGR effect whereas exhaust gasses will stay in the cylinders, disrupting proper fuel/air mixture, resulting in poor running. I don't subscribe to this stunt, but back in the day, if one should have a vengeance against another, a raw potato forced up the tailpipe with a broomstick of the hapless individual's car, will prevent the engine from running at all for no less than a few seconds. That is almost 100% back pressure. The only ways to fix it is to remove the pipe and burn the now swollen vegetable out with a torch or replace the pipe. SO, if an old muffler has either a lot of carbon or a dead mouse, nests, etc... clean 'em out.
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Now THAT'S a ride to take to the local Walmart or perhaps the Dunkin'-Donut's drive thru. Bret, anyone that can build/restore a monster like that will have no problem restoring/conserving an old Dodge! Speaking here about steam cleaners, the "wheel-around" type steam cleaners that auto shops would have, are oil fired for the heat and steam, good pressure, will remove all gunk and old grease from axles, engines,etc... The only thing people seem to forget is to add a detergent to the water. Plain steam out of the wand won't do much but push the grease around all over the place and a big waste of time. I used to haul my early jukebox mechanisms over to a local auto machine shop that did the steam cleaning for me. Like I said, with the detergent, they came out like a jewel. I'd spray them down with WD40, or the like and set them in the summer sun for one afternoon. Final lube after mech went back into the cabinet. Anyway, I am always on the lookout for one of those steam cleaners at a bargain price. It would be ideal for undercarriages. setting a large shallow pan under the area that's being cleaned would catch most all the goop, I'm sure.
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Ray, My '25 has an old rusty system on it. (1950's?) Seems to still be OK though. It must have been replaced at one time or more, since new. It is put together in pieces with the clamps. The exhaust pipe has a clamp made to bind the pipe to the manifold. It looks quite strong, but I don't think it's original. I believe it originally had a large nut that threaded onto the manifold. I don't have a MPB. One of my top priorities is to remove muffler and clean it out, verifying I will have correct back pressure.
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Ray, I'm glad to hear things are working better.
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Since I haven't rebuilt my '25 Dodge transmission, it seems to shift OK, as only driveway miles are still being clocked. (Still have registry and title problems.) Try draining gearbox and pouring in straight STP. It's thick, very thick. I use it in my original '31 Model A pickup and drive it every nice day with no shifting problems. In New England here, we have hot summers and cold winters. The little Ford doesn't have a multiple plate clutch. I don't see why it would matter. To change out the pilot bearing on the Dodge transmission, either the engine or the rear end/torque tube has to come out to separate the transmission from engine as far as I can see.
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Hi Bret, I have to say again what a nice find you've got there. With just mostly some elbow grease, a "conserving" of all the original cosmetic aspects of interior and exterior of the Dodge, you'd have an award winning car for most original "unrestored". A very rare thing these days! You may want to consider the Goodyear all weather diamond tread tires. I have had a set on my '31 ford for a while and they are the best. I believe Coker also sells them. Check the back pages of any Hemmings Motor News for all the old car tire co. ads. The valve stems on the tubes come either as a center mount or offset, depending on the wheel. In most cases, wood spoke wheels take a center mount stem which pokes up straight between the spokes. Coker and others sell tubes with either rubber stems or the nicer, but pricier, nickel plated brass stems which would have been on your car when new. The metal stems are vulcanized onto the tubes, not just clamped in, which can lead to leaks if not done right. Tubes these days seem to leave a lot to be desired. They're now made mostly in Vietnam and other foreign countries, nothing close to the quality of old, USA rubber tubes. If your tubes are OK, not dry rotted or patched to death, SAVE 'EM. You probably know all this with all your experience with other "oldies". Not sure how to soften the rubber mat. I would like to know that too.
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This IS a long shot, but did any '30's aircraft have hubcaps? Maybe Wright-Martin?
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The original horn on my 1925 Dodge is a Northeast, as pictured in the owner's manual also and it is a very loud and strong AOOOOGAA. Car is #; A388850, a 1925 appointed auto with a '26 build date.
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Phil, That's one of the nicest turn signal mod I've seen. Bret, go over to the "FORDBARN" Model A Ford website to see all the threads about lap belts and turn signal modifications. They are always doing things like that to the million Model A's out there. Most are quite good. Seat belts can be installed to the steel center crossmember, or even the seat frame, but I've not done any seat belt mods to any of my oldies on the road. I try to drive very defense-ably. You're surrounded by thick, U.S. steel, a downtown fender bender probably won't even scratch your Dodge. There has been some SERIOUS highway wrecks in the last few years involving antique cars. One of the most important safety mods you can consider is to replace the windshield plate glass for safety glass, and perhaps the door plate glass also. Taylormade & Keiser hit the nail on the head with the input about the wiring.--Best, Pete.
P.S.-- I spoke to a young man going for his license now in 2013 and he told me they still teach hand signaling in his classroom work. Do they pay attention? Hmmm...
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WOW! That's a beaut! Good luck and stick with the original equipment. It did the job for many years and many miles. It seems that some, not all, new updates bring on more headaches than what they're worth. A good, clean fuel system, from the tank to the engine is mandatory and will discount many trouble-shooting hours in the future. Same with the basic engine electrical system. Hope to see more pictures of your work in near future. Best of luck Bret!---Pete.
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Yup Keiser31, We all HAD those thoughts when we were Adolescents! Jeff, those are great finds. I hope you keep the '31 coupe original. That's a rare car.
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Who would think those old wood slat and fabric roofs were that strong. I don't see any of those gems on the bottom caving in.
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I've had some old cars with noisy release bearings too, It's still in one piece and doing it's job. Yours definitely needs some lube soon. I have not had my '25 transmission opened up beyond the point of the top cover, so I'm having a hard time figuring this one out. I want to say the slight warp-age, if any, with the plates would not be so pronounced as to spin that group of plates that soon after stepping on the clutch pedal. You could back off the pedal adjustment quite a bit just to see if that changes things, then remember to re-adjust for proper pedal play. You could also jack up the drive wheel at rear and put trans. in reverse gear,with engine running, to see if the plates slow or stop when you push the clutch in.
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Ray, It doesn't sound like your clutch throwout bearing is bad, "they" usually stop working by giving a really bad noise at first, when pedal is depressed followed by complete failure when the balls fall out from the worn off bearing retainer. From what I gather, the transmission gears are spinning with even low engine rpm's and clutch depressed. Either the 680W oil isn't up full enough to just cover the reverse idler gear, or the pilot bearing on the forward end of the trans. input shaft is seized. I don't recall seeing a pilot bearing seize that strongly to keep the transmission shaft turning that much. A sticky build up of goo could have got on the clutch plates, like you say you were spraying them down with carb cleaner. Maybe not all the goo got sprayed off. They HAVE to be dried out after spraying them.
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Ditto on that.
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I would straighten it cold. There isn't as much driving stress as one would think, on the rod itself. Remember, the rod is connected to the spindle arm with a little BOLT in some cases. others have a cup & ball, spring loaded connection that are overlooked by many, when the ball gets worn to a oval. They still seem to "hang on".
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By Golly they did mike--Had the pleasure of restoring one 30 years ago, made by the Columbia Phonograph Co. in 1899. An oak "table top" case with a curved glass front that held a mechanism that played cylinder records! It was originally a nickel-a-play too. The listener would have to use ear plugs on a rubber tube (like a doctor's stethoscope), to hear the one and only selection of the day, so that others around him would not hear his money's worth of music. (no amplifiers then!). other more elaborate machines were coming about thru the teens and twenties. Gable Co. was a leader of very early acoustic jukeboxes. Very rare today.
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You may check out the tire sites that offer the Goodyear All-Weather Diamond tread bias ply tires. I've had a set on one old car of mine and am very pleased all around with them. Lucas Tire is another outfit that carries good tires too. They have a warehouse in Ohio I believe.
'24 hot air tube to carb
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
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RJ, Got thinking about your question some more and I wonder if you're talking about the "other" hot air tube, located on right side engine, connecting exhaust manifold with the passage between the block. Let me know.