Pete K.
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Posts posted by Pete K.
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Ray, Thanks for the photo. And yes, My apologies to Mike for the start of this major hijacking of his thread!! I would like to think Mike knows we would help him out in any way I can with his '25 Dodge project. The gent that has the Wurl. P-10 is a bit off the mark. That is not Wurlitzer's first jukebox. Wurlitzer's 1st was called the "Debutante". The blue paint in the cabinet IS original color also. I've seen both blue and black interiors. The light-up plastics were not invented as yet- that was started with the Seeburg Corp. of Chicago,Ill. in 1937. The early wood "flat top" jukes are worth far less than the later "gaudy" ones, but they're cool anyhow. I found your link to Nigel Ogden playing the Blackpool Tower Wurlitzer organ really neat! I'm glad the war bombs didn't hit that hall!
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I hope this will help a bit Bill, I believe this to be original to this car, 1925 Dodge Brothers, Serial# 388850. Distributor Mdl. "O" , Type 10004, 12 Volts. The serial # on this dist. tag is not filled in. In other words, no imprint of numerals. It is blank. The lower tag on shaft housing is;1868037. I wish I could help with all the other distributors--good luck!---Pete.
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yes, I started with the old jukes way back in 1977 when virtually no one was looking for them. The collectors went cookoo for them a short 4 yrs. later. Now, investors buy them. I've been fortunate to locate many jukeboxes from 1936 to 1955. All makes & models, probably a hundred. The rarest and most beautiful ones are the Wurlitzer's from 1939-1948. I kept 6 of them which are fully restored and in my home. The internal record changers are made of steel, iron, brass, cast aluminum and POTMETAL. The turntables rise a foot to snatch the record from a selected-out pivot ring of polished aluminum stack of the records, then meets up with the tonearm on a stanchion at right rear. Music plays, then returns record back to the "stack". One can watch all this going on through the front window. These machines are not for the faint of heart. They are quite intricate with a lot going on inside. All direct drive through gearing and a clutch for the mech & turntable. (78 RPM). There's more wiring in them than 20 1925 Dodges. They of course use a tube 110 V. amplifier mated with electro-dynamic speakers that operate at boost of 600+ volts. "Ballroom sound" for sure. I play them all the time. At least it's GOOD music. I once repaired a player piano Mike--Don't ever want to do another one, but I do love 'em. You are right on about the pre-internet days finding parts & info. It was SLOW going. It didn't stop with jukeboxes. I went on to dig up old penny arcade machines and many old mechanical slot machines from 1906 to 1949. I Had some stories and repair articles published over the years. Some of the stories are really funny. I once bought an early jukebox from a totally(from birth), deaf man. The only part it was missing was the tonearm. He didn't care. One man traded me his old jukebox for 20 Lbs. of fresh jumbo Pistachio's. At the time I was operating a string of nut machines in all the bars & shops in the county and had the bags in my trunk. Wonder how long it took him to polish those all off. Here's a couple more shots of some cool, old music machines. My apologies Mike for the severe hijacking!
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Yup, They paved paradise and put up a parking lot.
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I second the motion.
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John, If you can open the hood to look at the fuel filter bowl when you hold the throttle open a bit at high rpm's, do you see any air spaces or large bubbles coming into the filter bowl, you may have a porous suction tube in the tank, sucking some air into the line.Make sure all connections are flared OK and tight. Without seeing this it can be hard to tell if it's actually a fuel problem. Could it be a high speed miss because of a timing or ignition issue? A vacuum gauge would come in handy with this problem.
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Thanks Mike, I've only had two Model A's out of the 14 antique cars owned in the past 40 years. The earliest was a 1909 Autocar two ton coal truck, two cylinder engine with acetylene lamps. I'm very used to locating "impossible to find" parts if I put my mind to it. Ford built millions of Model A's as you know, so original parts are still around. The repro parts for the A's vary in quality from poor to good. I try to find only original parts, but some body styles are unique and their parts are now difficult to locate. If you really want to go on some treasure hunts for parts, try restoring a 1941 Wurlitzer jukebox. They only built 10,000 of them in '41 and most were worn out & scrapped by the 1950's. Jukeboxes were not "built to last" like many of the fine automobiles of the day. Record disc speed & size changed and so did the machines. The old ones were cast off to the dump! This is one of about 25 still in existence and now playing my old '78's loud and clear, for a nickel-a-play.
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Mike, Here's a picture of the '31 ford pick up I pulled out of a plumbing warehouse where it had been sleeping for over 45 years un-touched and mostly original. It had some WWII modifications done like the 16" Ford wire wheels and a brush paint job. I tell people they sell my touch-up paint in every store in America. It's called black Rustoleum. The baloney skin spare tire is the original that came with the truck in '31. I drive it every chance I get. It's like driving a Go-cart since it's half the size of our Dodges. It is a tiny cab. I freshened the engine, new brakes, tires, hoses, battery, all new wiring. Just finished putting in a new radiator core last week since the old one had more leaks than I could count. It never over heated though. I plan to get the core re-done for my other project, a 1931 Ford 160-B Town Sedan, the slant windshield body. That has been on-going for many years and will be for a long time. (a frame-up resto.). The Dodge is a "breeze" compared to that. I'm very anxious to get those new tires on the '25 and drive that baby, just haven't been ready for wrestling alligators doing those tires (all five), for the Dodge. I bought the tubes with the vulcanized-on metal Schrader stems and correct, long dust covers. The Dodge has most of the original metal stems, but I can't see re-using them at this point. They are probably the clamp-in type, I don't trust them as much.I'm hoping the flaps are in those old casings, as I didn't buy new ones. They rarely go bad over time. I'll certainly find out soon enough.
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Mike, I thought your '25 was all put back together. If there is anything in particular you may be looking for, I'd be happy to crawl into the overly- packed barn of mine and photograph something for you. As you may know, I found this Dodge about a year ago, assembled, mostly original. I've spent the last year cleaning fuel system & restoring wiring and minor problems. I'm leaving the car as it is, the paint job buffed out pretty well, got it running well and just as yesterday, got my new 21" tires and the tubes delivered here. I still haven't placed the battery back in it for the spring time start-up yet this year, I've got other old car projects going on here at the same time. A picture only takes a minute to do, so let me know-- Best regards, Pete.
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Ray, Usually a back fire from exhaust pipe means there is RAW gasoline fumes in the exhaust system that are ignited and exploding once engine produces fire or sometimes the heat from the exhaust system itself. It sounds to me the ignition is intermittently shutting down and starting back up causing this problem. As mentioned earlier, the coil, condenser, points grounding out or wiring is the culprit. I do remember reading a service note about the distributor we have, not being grounded to car, where the two main iron bodies meet of the distributor housing and the coil housing. Grease and oil were the culprits there. Dodge suggested to run a separate wire from dist. body to frame, or other good, known ground. I had a '38 Chevy as a kid for everyday driving and one day in downtown traffic a backfire blew the muffler completely open. My feet were jolted 3 inches off the floorboard and a woman on the sidewalk almost fainted from shock. I found it was my key switch at fault. An intermittent on-off situation. Anyway, I'm thinking your vacuum tank may be OK.
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Ray, Here's my 2 cents; Take hold of the copper vac. line from intake -to- vac. tank after engine is warmed up. If it's cold, there's fuel going through it to your engine with a problem of the valve in vacuum tank not closing and engine siphoning fuel out of the tank. Your problem of any loud backfire from tail pipe sounds to me of another source,--- IGNITION! This could be anywhere in the ignition system, from the key switch to the plugs and all in between. Sounds either like some component is either breaking down with engine heat-up or shorting out with the same heat induced scenario. If your vacuum tank was at fault and gas was siphoning into engine big-time, you would see the fuel pouring out of the pre-heater adjustment at carb and you'd be blowing out more black smoke than ever out of exhaust pipe.
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My bet they are horse drawn carriage lamps that have been electrified at one point.
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I have a U joint with the spiral speedo gear on it for sale. This did come from a '30 Buick, small series 40. Probably the same as your '29?
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Jim, I'm sorry to hear LeBaron-Bonney couldn't help out. As I remember, there was an advertiser in the older Hemmings Motor News of a company called "Stitts" that specialized in old auto fabric restorations. Don't know if they're still around. The windlace will be a problem to find as you stated. You may need to vary a bit from original, I hate to say it..but what else can one do these days? Matching the color would be the big obstacle. The green "Pullman" mohair IS available, though not a blue-green. Best regards, Pete.
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That's a nice Dodge you have. I'm sorry that I don't know of a kit for that interior. I had a '30 Buick 4-door sedan that I restored back in the '70's and I bought the yardage of grey mohair from a New York firm and had a local auto upholstery shop do it. I seem to remember it was around $1000. in 1973. It was beautiful though. That was seats, headliner, carpeting and panels. If you've got the original pieces of upholstery to use as a template, LeBaron-Bonney will sell the fabric and possibly make up some of the pieces for you to install it. Good luck!
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Yup! That's where I store things like the tools and crank. Book may be there too. I know I would like to see more of that sedan. An engine compartment shot would be much appreciated!! If the car hasn't been drained of fuel since '94, or even '04 for that matter, shine a flashlight beam into tank to first confirm you've got a clean tank. Back when that car was restored, fuel was different. Folks would use a sloshing compound, or "tank sealer" that is now NOT COMPATIBLE with the re-formulated gas. When "new gas" is used now, the sealer turns to a thick sludge that is the WORST job to deal with. Don't ask me how I learned this. If you see a clean, shiny tank, go to church next Sunday.
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I've got a pair of what I believe are '31 Pontiac wire wheels out in the yard and they look just like those you have. I'll try and post a picture of the rims tomorrow if I can get the snow off them.
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That IS a great car! Have you tried to find any books that may have been put in a desk or in the car somewhere? The 8-1/2" X 5-1/2" "Book Of Information" is a must for the Dodge owner. It came with each car when new. It's about 120 pages with pictures. It is also termed the Owner's manual. You can learn boatloads about your car with that little book. Myer's Early Dodge Parts sell reprints and also Romar's Dodge Parts too. Both good people to know. Good luck with the sedan.
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I sure could be mistaken, but it sounds like those ARE the right wire wheels for that car. A picture would be great to see...
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I agree with the "Keiz", Sewing machine perhaps. White Truck Co. always had their logo in a written "script" as far as I know.
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Yes, Those old floats do develop leaks. I test mine in a bowl of very hot water in my kitchen. Once submerged, the hot water expands the air in float and you'll see a tiny air bubbles at a leak. Have a marker pen at hand to circle the area leaking. Don't hold it under long, so as you don't let water into the float. If water gets in the float, you need to drill a tiny hole, usually at the soldered seam (I do anyway), to drain water out. You can carefully heat the float to "steam-out" water. Sometimes I let float sit for a few days with a tiny wire set into the drill hole facing bottom. Then solder up your drill hole using a minimum amount of solder. I've had success doing this on a few old car floats and it saves a lot of bucks!
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Well, here's some photo's of this old engine's oil filler pipe. It's kinda hard to see, but the underlaying green paint under the black has been scratched off near the base and shows sorta like a galvanized finish? I would have to guess to say that this part was painted SOME kind of color. I snapped a shot of the front end of engine to show the light yellow/ green, but the photo came out way too light. This was covered with an inch of grease and grime. "many years" of crud. When I scraped and wiped down my engine splash aprons, there was rust and a trace of black paint here and there, but the finish is definitely Galvanized on the steel aprons.
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One thing I missed in your post Richard; I hope you don't refer to the modern gas you are using, otherwise known as E-85. Don't ever put that crap in your old cars.
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Some internal problems I've seen with the Stewart carb in question are; Stripped teeth on pinion gear, Metering pin broken loose from piston, clogged passages in piston and metering head. Bungled up metering pin seat, Carbon crud build up on metering head and stem (this has to float freely up & down). Mis-adjusted choke lever arm to rack & pinion assembly. Air leaks at main body and throttle shaft. I'm not even getting into the float chamber.
Would like any photos of 25 touring car
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
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Many thanks Ray, I found that article very interesting and I learned many things about the Tower that I never knew.