Pete K.
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Posts posted by Pete K.
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I checked my '25 oil filler tube assembly, knowing the old black repaint job was all scratched and base color shows it was olive green, but it is darker green than the strange yellowish-grey/green of the engine which appears to be original.
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Very well put Jason! I was wondering Ray, Do you have the top saddles for your car so as the top can be put down? Without them, one risks serious injury to the whole top. Original top saddles are next to impossible to obtain for a specific car. There were "left & right" too. I've been working for a long time to make "re-pro" Dodge top saddles that would work for roadsters also. I have a working model here for my '25 and ready to find a friendly machine shop to make some of the parts. These don't look like the originals, but they would work and be very inexpensive!! I know some owners have the original saddles and NEVER put the top down! This is like the girl at the beach who never gets her bathing suit wet.
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Hi Ray, If it's any help, as MikeC5 offered too, I can post a few pictures tomorrow of the top and bows on my '25 tourer. It is a Budd bodied car, (A388850, 1926 build date), but I would have to believe the top would be the same used on your '26. Different body makers would have to be held to specific dimensions so that other Dodge factory designed parts would fit, like the width of seat springs, carpet sets, splash aprons, THE TOP, and so on. I don't see why you can't keep using your one piece windscreen. Don't forget, as we get older, our bones shrink and you'll eventually fit just right by the time you and I finally replace the top fabric on our tourers!
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Hi Ray!, Yes, I remember Arthur very well. I grew up in the small town of Lynnfield, Ma. I believe he bought it from Dr. Worthen years ago, or had it stored in his barn. I remember seeing it there about 40 years ago down on Locust St. in Lynnfield, where the old photo of the unrestored Grout was taken within the cable TV interview, you kindly "patched on" there in your post. Arthur's got to be in his 90's now. I didn't know he ever finished the Grout. He also has a 1918 (?) Lancia roadster. Thanks very much for your post Ray. Best to you, Pete.
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I thought I'd throw my 2 cents in here. I've been restoring a 1931 Ford Model A Town sedan for the last 16 years. Not actively, but Have a rolling chassis with a set of Goodyear All Weather Diamond Treads, 4.75 X 19's. I bought the tubes and tires from Universal in 1999 with the correct metal "clamp-in" Schrader valve stems. I restored the wheels and mounted rubber, inflated them, (5), to 35 lbs. THEN stored all of them in a cool dark place until 2012. I found two completely flat! De-mounted those two and found the bridge clamp nut was not tightened enough. Put a wrench on them and re inflated to 35 lbs last spring. All 4 tires on chassis haven't lost one lb. as of today. My '25 Dodge I found last spring has ORIGINAL brass valve stems still on it. None of them leak. The tires are so bad, the cords are showing through cracks in rubber big enough to put your finger in. Bottom line here--- I trust the old and old style metal stems, and they look great too.
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Grant, I'm up here in the Boston, Massachusetts area, "New England" to most folks. Gas now at $3.70 or there 'bouts. Went up 5 - 8 cents /gallon in the last week. Same old excuses... A short 4 years ago it was $1.80/ gallon. "A WICKED BIG GYP" but don't get me going, I'll get booted off the forum.
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Looks like an after market to me. I believe I've seen this one listed in one of the old J C Whitney catalogs in the 1960's and '70's.
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Hadees made many hot water heaters for after market installation and perhaps they were under contract with various auto makers that put their name plate on them. They were a large firm.
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Richard, speaking of "taking a back seat" with the Dodge, I'm shooting off a picture of the robe rail in my '25 tourer. It is solid 1/2 inch steel, two end bends, nothing fancy. I'm thinking it is original, but I can't compare it to another unless someone else pipes in. This could be easily made right in your own shop. You're going to love that Dodge car. I'm thinking your car has the same "Budd" bodied all steel assembly as my '25. NO squeaky, rotten wood in body at all!
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When on U-Tube, check out the 1939 "COLOR" films, "Sandy Blvd. and 28th, Portland, Ore. 1939". I thought Boston driver's were bad! A lot of very close calls and great old cars.
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I clicked on the photo and when enlarged, it's very easy to read. I think that stamp is pretty neat!
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I once owned a 1927 Packard, ( Series 426), that used Watson's just like the one you pictured, as standard equipment. Yes, they do work and I find them necessary to keep the axles from pinging up and down after hitting an uneveness on the road. I had the wrench, maybe still do, marked "Watson Stabilizer Wrench" on it. It was about 10" long, flat steel and had a box end to fit the hex adjustment fitting on the side of the stabilizer while the other end had a funny 90 degree arc shaped bend to it. Never had to use it. Be careful disassembling a Watson. I remember there is a very strong spring in body that can be a real spoiler if it flies out.
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Great looking Dodge Richard! Someone put a lot of money and time into the restoration, I wish my seats and top were as nice as yours. I don't believe the colors are correct for a Dodge of that era, but again, it looks good. The vacuum tank system is a good, dependable system when restored. I like the lower, secondary fuel shut-off valve-- I'd leave it be. The car looks very good with the Ford Model A "Tea Cup" tail lights, a big difference from the original one which was on the left side only, which was a drum style body lamp that had a bracket from the frame tail. I also really like the chromed windshield stanchions! The back of the front seat originally had a hinged rail, or rack to hold a blanket, known as a "lap robe" for warmth for the mother-in-law in the back seat. As far as the "paraffin" goes, I take it is a bottle of oil. Over here in the States, paraffin usually congers thoughts of a solid chunk of wax. There is paraffin based oils, usually for sewing machines and so forth, yours was probably used for oiling the horn bearings along with the oiler on the rear of the starter/generator, and the distributor. Keep us posted and ask any questions you have. See if you can buy a reprint manual in your area OR from Myer's Early Dodge & Romar's Dodge Parts here in the states. "The Book Of Information" and the "Mechanic's Handbook" for your '24 is invaluable. Good luck!---Pete.
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Thanks for posting that Mike. Our '25's must have had a cylindrical type motor like your Hershey find, only a Folberth like we all have mentioned. I've been studying your pictures, but have come up empty on a cylinder valve for "production" to get that working. It's one of those things where I would have to have it in my hands to really project a thought on making a valve. Keep at it though, it would be worth it to put on the '25. Best, Pete.
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I saw a restored Moxiemobile at a car show around 1978. It was a base 1930 or '31 Buick. (I did not see if it was a six or an eight motor.) Moxie began here in the Boston area.
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There's been much discussion of the overflow pipe location on various forums and the consensus is the pipe should be low enough to not contact the radiator cap, of course, and towards the BACK of the neck, as we face the car. Works well for Model A's! My '25 Dodge's pipe is soldered in sort of towards the right of the neck as you face the front of radiator. Height seems to work OK. It seems that someone had pinched the tube opening into a tight "oval" shape, maybe to restrict coolant overflow. I'm leaving it like that. It seems to work too. WORD TO THE WISE--Be careful bending those old tubes in the neck. They are BRITTLE and will crack farthur down the tube where you don't want a HOLE! Don't ask me how I know this.
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I think the '36 Dodge used a Philco radio that had a curved metal face plate to take the spot where the ash tray is on the left side of dash. It had the separate tuning head that it's cables went down to the radio chassis box under dash mounted to firewall. I seem to remember it was located between the pedals up above the steering column. This was years ago...
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Some folks used to set a roofing nail in the overflow tube to keep a higher level of coolant in the top tank. I hope they had a good cap gasket! Just a slight amount of "build-up" of crud on the inside of the radiator tubes will be enough to keep the coolant from flowing fast enough through the core, therefore coolant will flow out the overflow tube since it has nowhere else to go. As the core becomes progressively blocked, the upper coolant level will drop until one experiences overheating. Usually, the water pump will keep doing it's thing with gusto, filling the top tank from the engine. Just a side note; 1930's Pontiac's used a "cross-flow" honeycomb radiator core like many of our modern cars use today. I never drove one so I don't really know if that helped with over-feeding the top tank of a radiator that has a build up in the tubes.
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A couple of ways of getting a stuck head off; cram a single long length of soft rope, like clothesline rope, down each cylinder spark plug hole then hand crank engine over and it sometimes pushes the head up. The other way is to actually fire the engine up with the stud nuts off. It will only fire over once and you'll lose compression but head will come loose. Try to refrain from the old screwdriver and hammer prying method. Spray plenty of solvent around each stud and brush off any and all rust around them.
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My mystery wrench has been solved! Thank you very much Jason and jpage. The logo on that wrench has got to be for "Whitworth & Barnes". I'm still learning something new everyday. Thanks again. Now get back under that comforter.
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Scratching is always a big concern on a job like you are doing. The "Painter's tape" does work, but be careful if your paint is not fully cured, the tape may still pull it off in specks! Bob A. gave good advice. Have some touch up paint on hand if the worst should happen. Those things DID happen in the factory too. Good luck!
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Here's something to gander on a very cold day like this WEEK here in Boston. I chose the coldest day of the year so far,(9 degrees F.) to remove my battery from the '25 Dodge. Could've done this on a balmy 40 degree day, but that would have been too easy. As I was digging through some old auto wrenches, I noticed there were two, supposedly 9'16" open-end wrenches laying there. On closer inspection, one was marked 3/8". It is actually a 9/16" wrench. It does not show any kind of "retro-fit" machine work in it's jaws. It is stamped on the other side with a diamond surrounding the initials, "W&B", "Made In USA". Where it is stamped 3/8", it also has a smaller stamping, "168" as you can see in the picture. I photographed the wrench with an old "Bonney", a true 9/16" adjacent to it. I also show a photo of a true, 3/8" modern chrome wrench with the odd 3/8" - 9/16" wrench showing how far off the two sizes really are for those of you that are in a Metric frame of mind. Was the wrench stamping guy at W&B Tool factory having a problem that day or am I missing something here? Jason, if you're reading this, get out from under your comforter and chime in--- Best regards, Pete.
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That atmospheric vent has a by-pass channel to vent the "outer tank" where the fuel will rise and come out! Also remember, you are forcing fuel in reverse to what the system was designed for, pressurizing the tank instead of sucking the fuel with engine vacuum. A little too much air pressure in fuel tank, and you'll over-come the spring and valve system in vacuum tank. It WILL overflow.
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Yep Ray, Sounds to me it would be a good day for "another cup of coffee and another piece of pie". Pull the distributor unit off and bring 'er home to rebuild. It may only need a couple of new brass bushings for the rotor shaft. Not a big deal. Good luck thawing out! --Pete.
Do you have an original unrestored dodge motor?
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
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Randy, I'll have to check into that dark green on my oil filler further for us both to figure this out. I'll try to post a picture later today. The carb neck is supposed to be engine color. Mine is painted black, (my own doing), as I needed the carb back on engine to get it running after I rebuilt it and had none of the odd-ball engine paint at the time. I have seen a few original carbs of that era and they were engine color.