Pete K.
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Posts posted by Pete K.
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Thanks for the kudos, please feel free to post that tip to anybody that may find it useful since I'm not a member of any club. I'm also new to the early Dodge Brothers car and always finding out new things about it here in the "cave". Seasoned Dodge Brothers owners must already know this, I think.---Pete.
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Rebuilding a Stewart side-draft carb I had in the pile of parts. The throttle assembly on the carb was so loose, it needed a new butterfly shaft, I thought. Once I removed the bronze throttle bell crank at the top of the carb by tapping out the tapered pin, I noticed that the cast iron upper body had a 1/8" deep under-cut around the brass throttle shaft. It was filled with some dirt, and would allow air to be sucked into the mixture, past the throttle shaft. This will make your car run lousy! I posted a picture of the "fix" here. I unraveled a piece of faucet packing I had lying around in my plumbing parts, packed it into the gap around the shaft, trimmed off a bit and installed the bell crank onto the shaft. It now is air tight and rotates just fine. What a simple repair and remedy for a poor idling Dodge.
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Ray, This is Brian, otherwise known as Pete. I cannot find a cap that will fit your tank. I think I know pretty much what it would look like, using internal lugs on the filler neck. The black cap shown in my previous pictures is what I believe is the original cap that was supplied by Dodge, as my '25 is a July build, but for the '26 SERIES.--(A388850). I checked the Mechanic's handbook, Revised edition, 1926, showing the cap with the dang protuberance! The 17th edition, March of '25 Book of Information also shows the "same image" used in the Mechanic's Handbook, again the cap with the protuberance. Obviously, the printers used older images that were drawn back a few years to save money on artwork until it was necessary for the pictures to show a dramatic change, or an important technical change. I've noticed this with the pictures of the vacuum tank also.
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I occasionally receive parts back from my plater with this "plater's tape' still on areas of my parts. I peel it off, it looks and feels EXACTLY like plain old masking tape to me. Seems to do the job just fine.
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Hi Dave, I have a '25 touring that came with these wind wings, sort of 1960ish add-ons I think. It's a pretty clever way to mount them though, using strap steel cut at the top and drilled at bottom to mount to the post nuts. The hinges are cheapo's and the "wings" are made of Plexiglass! Someday, I plan to change out the wings for real glass. I don't want to give up those windwings! Click on my picture again to bring it up closer so you can see it better.
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I hear what you say Ray. If I walked into my bank with Pounds Sterling, They'd clunk me over the head with a stapler. It's too bad folks have to pay plenty for parts, but the tariffs are just out of hand (and out of pocket!!). There should be some sort of "Historical Restoration Parts" clause in the tariff laws that allow people anywhere in the world to gather parts for antique items, say, over 50 or 75 years old, for the sake of posterity. I'll keep an eye out for an old cap that may work for your tank. Best regards Ray, Pete.
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Ray, What if I buy the parts you need from Myers, then ship them to you marked as a "gift". Then there wouldn't be a tax on your end?
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Here's two pictures of my '25 Dodge gas cap with the spring wire inside the cap that bayonettes onto the filler neck. It is a vented cap, using a cork gasket. The next pictures are of a tank in my collection using the type cap Ray is talking about. It is a heavy steel cap, threaded internally with hex sides that fit the Dodge box end wrench to tighten it onto the tank. The "protuberance" is knurled, where I find it handy to spin the cap onto the tank since it is threaded. This cap has a heavy steel plate with a hole in it. What it doesn't show is the tiny cross pin, way up in the cap's protuberance, where a small ball chain was attached, down to this steel plate. This assembly was for the venting without the spillage if the car flipped over. The tank was my spare for the '25, but upon inspection, the gas gauge is in a slightly off-set position and won't fit into my rear tank cover. I was thinking this was now for an earlier Dodge, perhaps a '22 or '23?
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Ray, this carb is so much different than any other carb I've ever worked on. Mike, I'll check again on the air valve floating OK. It WAS when I re-built it. The air mixture screw was not turned down enough to half way as Jay said. Thank you ALL guys for steering me in the right direction! I do have an un-tampered with, orig. carb here in my parts collection to compare that rack & pinion deal. Otherwise, the engine runs fine, warms up to just under the horizontal center line on the Moto-Meter. My little stand-pipe filter I installed in the bottom of the vacuum tank seems to be working great, since I only did my best here to get the fuel tank cleaned out, betting there is still SOME residue of rust dust in the tank that I just couldn't get at or see. The fuel in my carb is as clean as when I put it in the tank. The original ignition coil is at least allowing the engine to start & run. Don't know how it will be under strain, (power).
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Mike, Glad you posted here. Finally got this Dodge running since I found it last April 25th. I've been searching your older posts on your '25 Dodge and I noticed that you once asked why your engine only runs with the choke out. Well, NOW, I'm in the same boat. What the heck am I missing here? The only thing leading me to the problem is the carb, which I had to completely take apart to clean and put new gaskets in it. I thought I put it back the same way it came apart but now I'm doubting it. I can't find too much technical info about the set up of this carb anywhere, although I don't see the problem with my rebuild either! Did you ever rectify this problem we're both experiencing?? I haven't driven the car yet, no room to drive it without getting it out on the street & it's not registered yet.------ Getting back to my original thread, I happened to see the drawing of the carb in the '25 B.of I. and it shows the Cotter pin in question here going through the control rod the same way I had installed it! Could it be I'm the ONLY ONE in 87 years this impending disaster could have happened to? I guess we'll never know. Ray, don't feel too bad about that one "split pin'. You DID catch it in time. Sort of reminds me of an old movie that I saw 40 years ago, whereas a 10 cent cup of coffee brought down an entire commercial passenger plane,(the hard way). It was titled, "Fate Is The Hunter" Anyone remember this?
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No, I don't think so, I'm even betting there wasn't one there originally. The problem was that the partially splayed leg of the Cotter pin WAS level when it slipped on by the screw, then caught the screw when she was coming back to idle position, holding the accelerator open. Like I said before, IF only I had inserted the pin through the hole, the other way, the head of the pin would not reach the screw and all would be dandy. I do hope owners of these type cars using this set-up check this situation--it could be deadly.
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Well, who would of thought that a TWO CENT cotter pin could ruin your whole day? Recently I got my 1925 Dodge Brothers touring car running. Rebuilt fuel system from stem to stern. This has the original carburetor, a Dodge Brothers, Detroit Lubricator, Stewart Carb, Series B-264. As I was in driver's seat while engine was running, I revved the engine slightly by stepping on the accelerator pedal, testing things out. All of a sudden, the engine roared and the accelerator pedal did not come back up. I immediately turned off the ignition switch, shutting her down. After inspecting all the linkages, I came across the problem. It was the little Cotter pin that secures the throttle linkage to the carburetor bell crank at top.(see photo's). I had not bent the "LEGS" of the pin ALL THE WAY AROUND to meet the head of the Cotter pin, thus, a "leg" caught on the idle adjustment clamp screw and kept the throttle almost wide open. With needle nose pliers, I re-shaped the Cotter pin, as in the pictures and now it's fine. If I put the pin in the other way, it wouldn't have caught. This was an INTERMITTENT problem that arose, Glad I was in my own yard when it happened.---Pete.
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Smitty, Try this with your computer; "Snyder's Antique Auto Parts", Item # A-12000.-Ignition coil, $15.50. Once there on that page, click onto the "downloadable detailed description". I think you may like this.
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An old time counter man at Cap's Auto Parts. Exactly as jpage described!
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Pete, If you can't find new king pins, I've found it can work if you've got "OK" pins and you can put in new brass or bronze king pin bushings in the axle knuckles, oversize if needed, then ream them to your king pins.
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Well, I have my spring out of the pressure valve and I see that it is a CONICAL spring. Since the body of the valve is conical, I imagine this is the original spring. I found a couple of springs in my collection so far, that seem to have the same pressure, but they aren't conical, also, I can't find my blasted gram scale. If you could see this place, you'd see why.
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Mike, I don't think it would hurt too much if your oil pump cover gasket is up to .009". The thinner--the better though. I should have said before that not all auto parts store gasket paper is alike. I believe the black paper is the type you want, but I don't recall it being sold as thin as .003" - .004". Fish paper may be a better option.
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Alright, alright,... I'll take my oil pump relief valve spring out tomorrow and measure it. I have a drawer full of scrapped springs of all types and sizes. Most go to old slot machines and jukeboxes from my business. I have a tone arm gram scale to measure the spring tension of mine & try to match up a new spring. I'm not going to pull my pump out since I just filled the crankcase and almost ready for first start up. I can't remember if I checked the damn spring between the vanes in my pump, but my son told me I had a tiny bit of oil pressure on dash gauge when I was furiously hand cranking engine with the plugs out to help prime the oil system before I start it. If you've got the old, broken VANE spring in your hand, it shouldn't be that hard to match up one very close to it. The gasket used in the oil pump is just the thickness of a SINGLE gasket cut from a sheet of gasket paper you can buy at any auto store. There is no where near enough oil pressure in a hundred years to "blow out" a gasket there in that little pump, especially if it's got a by-pass, (or pressure relief valve), like it does. The one and only important gauge on ANY engine start up is always the oil pressure gauge.
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Steve, That is just maddening. I would take this matter up with E-bay, even though the jerk seller said "no returns'.His poor photo, a third party buying it for a present, etc... I think you may get some satisfaction if you ask. If you notice, his items say they are covered by E-bay Buyer Protection Plan. Good up to 45 days of purchase. Click on that and see what I'm talking about. I, for one will NEVER buy from these guys if they can't describe their parts well enough. Good luck,--- Pete.
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Elmer, Is there any way the broken casting can be repaired? The method I was thinking of is to clean it really well, No traces of oil, wire wheel the mating part carefully to get down to shiny metal, then using a strong epoxy like Marine Tex. The drawback is the forces put on this part where it broke and perhaps even the clearance where there would be a bead of epoxy evident along the repair. I've checked all my books and have come up with zilch for an interchange.
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The "h" rubber sits on the bottom glass, as you know, and the flange of the "h" is on the inside. Both glass panels tilt out only.
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Yes Mike, The Ford Model A's have the same type generator third brush charging system as the '25 Dodge has. (and others). They do make a "voltage regulator/ cut-out relay" now for the A's, with modern electronics packed into an original looking Model A generator cut-out. The 3rd brush is now permanently set at a charge rate of no more than 15 Amps at full speed and there is no more un-regulated charging/ discharging as in the original system. Check it out at their website, I think it's "Fun projects.com". I think any 12 volt voltage regulator should work on our old Dodges, with a bit of experimentation. I'm getting one for the "A" pick up I own since I drive it a lot and need the headlights now after dusk. I may not re-vamp the '25 dodge though.
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Jay, I have a $3.00 roll of cork gasket material in my shop that I cut all sorts of gaskets from, including two new cork gaskets for the Dodge valve covers. Just unroll the cork material, trace around cover with a ball point pen, cut it out with a pair of scissors. brush on a coat of "Weldwood contact cement" made by the DAP people, found in most hardware stores. Do both the cover edges and the cork, allow to set-up, then carefully place the cork gasket on the valve cover and it's permanent. I choose to cut out the center of the gasket so as I only have a thin cork strip cemented around the mating edge of the valve cover-to-block instead of a huge floppy piece of cork doing nothing to seal the cover to the block. I also found it better to leave the areas bare where the valve covers overlap each other and close to the heat tube. It's hard enough to get these in right without a gasket getting in the way. Jay, my '25 didn't have their gaskets on the covers either. The covers-- were originally, slightly dish shaped, so when the wing nut is tightened, it should in theory, flatten out evenly around the perimeter of the valve cover--- The rear cover overlapping the front one and finding it's way through the little groove at the top of the heat tube at the same time. ---GOOD LUCK.!!!
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Don't you all just LOVE fiddling with those valve covers and heat tube???
Thermostat
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
Posted
Install the thermostat as marked on it for proper flow direction. The engine coolant OUTLET is at the top, and coolant goes to the radiator INLET at the top of the radiator via hose. There is no backwards flow through ANY radiator, with perhaps a few like the '31-'32 Pontiac Six that used a cross flow radiator tank design. The water still EXITS the engine at the top.