Pete K.
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Posts posted by Pete K.
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I agree with trp... Don't drill that lock!!! Soak the whole blasted thing in a pan of ATF and acetone,50/50 mix, OR your favorite penetrating oil. Have patience. Learn how to use a lock pick set you can buy on Flea-bay. Don't buy a cheap Chinese set, been there done that, never again! You'll use them many times in your life, usually for others I found out. You may have to hang the whole assembly somehow to soak the assembly in a pan and cover it up closely with saran wrap. The cam end may be rusty too, leading to harder work picking the tumblers and opening the lock.
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At least I CAN add, the two sets of top clamps are made for a "touring car" compared to a "roadster" bodied car.
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Well, It really got me to thinking--I've had old cars of many different types and years, the lifter/valve stem clearance can be varied. Sure enough, I removed the valve covers on the '25 just a bit ago, again, to VERIFY my readings of months ago. (why didn't I write them down??). The COLD clearance on this Dodge Brothers engine is .007" - .008" and one was .009".--COLD. This Dodge was driven hundreds, if not thousands of trouble-free miles by it's previous owner,(RIP), as a family member told me of his Dad's New England tours he took with this car. NO ONE has touched this engine since his death in '94. This is verified. It actually looks like the engine's never been apart. I now have such great compression using the hand crank since I did have some stuck valves back in April of this year at purchase. The compression leak down is well within limits. The car had not been even started since owner's death. Anyway, I'm always learning a few idiosyncrasies about this Dodge engine every day. Perhaps this valve train design somehow runs cooler? I see no valve issues now with my engine, so I'm keeping these valve clearances as I find them. When I get it running, which will be very soon I hope, I'll check the hot clearances.---Pete.
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Jay, As you probably know, "The Book" says to adjust them when engine is warmed up, set to .005" - .006". I think you'd be OK if you set the clearance to .007" for intake and .008" for the exhaust valves when cold. Just remember to check clearances again when you've got it running.
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Mike, I don't think the seals are in wrong. Just make sure the bearing retainer and locking tab is adjusted per instructions in the book. Most old cars, and new ones for that matter, the axle's are hard to turn by hand, very hard sometimes, with new, or even good seals installed. You are also spinning over the rear end gears too. When you put the wheel back on it will be far easier to turn that axle. I would start there and try that. You're right, the axle can only go in positively into the square hole. A bit of oil on the seals would be a good idea for lube during installation.
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Mike, Are you positive it's only the new felt seals hanging up your axle? Could it be when you installed the axle, one or more of the seal lips, or edges got folded under? I've not had the time to pull my '25, (A-388850), back end apart yet, sorry. I do have a spare axle here and I certainly see what you mean by the "unmachined part" of the axle! It looks like it was forged on a blacksmith's anvil. If everything looks to be in place with the new seals, try bolting up your wheel and tire on drum, then try turning it. With the extra weight there, you may find it only to be a slight drag, which I think is OK.
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Welcome!! You've found a very nice Dodge indeed! It looks super. There's plenty of knowledge here on this forum, try and locate an original or reprinted owner's manual for your new antique Dodge which will have a lot of basic info you'll need to have at a glance in book form. Please feel free to ask any questions you have, my '25 is a bit older but there are '30 dodge owners here!! P.S., We all love to see any and all photo's of your great Dodge coupe! Good luck!
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Mike, I think you're only asking for trouble adapting filters to the Dodge. First of all, nothing can get in your oil except through the air intake and that's a little dust maybe, if you spend a lot of hours on dry dusty roads. Carbon from combustion will too, but with the right oil, it will settle out, or just change the oil when it darkens to your shade of choice. Air filters are mostly of the screen type, which will keep only large stones out. The paper and screen type filters don't have enough square inches of area for the amount of air needed for the proper mixture. They have been known to become saturated with fuel, which could lead to catastrophe. Just keep your splash pans in place. I've been driving antique auto's since 1971 with no factory filters, many miles on all types roads, tearing down those engines 20 years later to find NO wear from the non-use of filters!!!
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I'm hoping somebody here on the Dodge Brothers Forum can verify this big old metal sun visor is an accessory Dodge part, or standard equipment for a particular Dodge Brothers car. There is no markings what so ever on the visor. I wanted to try this forum first before the AACA "What's-It?" heading, since almost all the very early parts I recently obtained are for Dodge cars, 1922- 1926. If you notice, the visor has clamp-on fittings, it looks to me that it must clamp to a post, as like an open car's windshield frame. Does the closed cars have some kind of a post this would clamp to? I can't picture this visor on my '25 tourer, and I don't believe I've ever seen a visor like this even ON an open car. I suppose it would work though! You can click on the photo's 3X to get a close up of the clamp part. Any input or photo's of this set-up "in action" would be very much appreciated!---Pete.
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You've got a great start with that '39 Tater! Don't forget... things happen in THREE'S. You may have to make more room.
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Do you know the cost?
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Bob, I think most any 12 volt coil will work OK on the '25 Dodge engine. If you can see what the coil is rated for, You'll need 12,000 Volts at the plugs. As you know, the Dodge, then, didn't use a ballast resistor in their circuit. Some modern coils have a built in resistor, others don't. Most all coils (or the box they come in) have a sticker on them with their part number, voltage rating, etc... and a notice stating the coil does not or does have an internal resistor. The previous owner of my Dodge (RIP), by-passed the old Dodge coil and installed the Echlin IC-12, a neat install I guess, but he must have panicked at the parts store when he and the "young"(?) counter man saw the sticker on the coil stating it needed a ballast resistor, SO...he bought and installed one in series with the positive wire from the coil to the distributor. The Dodge WAS driven for many miles with this set-up as I can attest, but I feel there is no reason to have the ballast resistor in this car. Having been brought up on many early cars in my life, I don't recall ever seeing a ballast resistor until I had a '34 Ford once that had one from the factory. I still have two Model A Fords, NO resistors in their circuits. I am speculative on the ballast resistor's intended use. Some say they deliver a hotter spark. or maybe it's the dawn of factory car radios that called for them. We can start with Ohms Law; I=V/R.( I, being the Amps, V, the Volts and R, the resistance.) A resistor is exactly that, A device to resist voltage and transform it to heat.
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The size of the coils Jason, were 1/4 smaller with finer gauge primary & secondary windings. The winding machine the man was using to do my other coils would be able to do an auto coil like the Dodge coil without much ado. This scenario with my rewinding man, in the Boston area quite a while ago, maybe 25 years ago, was an electric co. that was set up to do just that, rewinding coils, armatures, etc... One really needs a winding machine, or a lot of spare time to wind the 10,000 plus turns of primary wire on an auto ign. coil. The device was quite small, a table top sort of thing that had a counter set up to wind wire on a core, fed from a spool of the proper gauge wire. When it got to the end, he snipped it off and soldered it to the terminal it went to--Not brain surgery atall. For 200 bucks, I think one could procure a complete Dodge distributor unit on E-bay and possibly get a good coil in it.
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I hear exactly what you say Mike. To all here on this post, my '25 came to me with the original coil by-passed and a newer type 12 V. coil installed on the firewall. I've come across a seemingly good orig. coil that will be tested out "for sure" when I get the car running. I've left the re-vamp modern coil in place, un-wired, "just in case". I'll never spend $200. on a rewound, new coil for the '25, It's just the principle with me, since I used to get impossible-to-find coils rewound for other type antique machines at a whopping cost of $12. and that's about the cost of a modern replacement automobile coil today that will work on the Dodge car.
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I'm back, with the photo's of a '25 or earlier Dodge ignition coil. I was quite surprised when I "cracked" open this old, dirty, rusty distributor unit to find a coil that looks to be a replacement from the 1940's or ?? This is from a Northeast #10004 type, Model "O", 12 volt distributor unit, Serial # 2852840. I've not seen this exact type coil with it's red and black plastic insulated wires, coil being encased with the lacquered cardboard end caps. The original 1925 style had an open frame, sometimes with exposed windings using the old style cloth wiring from coil to top terminals. The coil has a laminated outer frame and attaches to coil housing at base with a 5/16" hex nut and lock washer. (bottom of unit). A 5/16" nut fastens the top terminal assembly, through top cover to the coil top stud. Someone had previously attached a newer condenser on this unit as seen in the photo. Again, a Zerk fitting is in place instead of an older(?) type grease cup to lube the shaft bushings. Hope this brings some light onto the subject Bob and Ron! Best regards, Pete.
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Yes, I have some original coils here. I'll have to disassemble a distributor unit later today and will post the photo's of it.
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Bob, I completely missed the side photo in your first posting, showing the correct mounting flange for Dodge on the back side of distributor unit. As it is very similar to my '25 Northeast unit, Yours has a grease cup for shaft lubing, as all '25's I believe used a Zerk type grease fitting. Don't know much about the older cars. Keep in mind, if you plan to use this unit on a car you have for touring or even going around the block, I would suggest a modern type coil instead of the original since they are hard to find good ones and repro's,(if there are any), would be very expensive. Buying and using an unknown original coil for these units is a crap-shoot, since they can only be tested in a car at cruising speed, heated up and running. The Ohmmeter test is not a reliable test for auto coils. I'm sure someone will chime in to mention a coil bench testing machine, but I don't have one, nor know of any around here. NOTE; This is taken from my '25 Dodge Brothers book, stating the Northeast coil has 360 primary windings, secondary has 10,850 turns, producing 12,000 Volts at the plugs. There is more info about the advance weights, etc... but you may already have this info. Let me know. Best regards, Pete.
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I do not think your distributor ass'y is Dodge Brothers, nor Graham truck. Note the mounting flange. It is backwards for the Dodge & Graham. Northeast supplied several makes of auto's with ignition systems. An "Echlin" coil will work with this unit if it is to be used. The part # is IC-12, for a 12 volt set up. You did a nice job restoring it.
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Having un-stuck many old engines in my past, the penetrating oils and solvents work, along with the "big bar" method, BUT, the only problem here is the piston rings will most likely snap-crackle and pop under such strain. The rings are the sticking culprit in most cases, being of an iron or iron based alloy rusting to the iron cylinder bore. The scenario is like the old adage, you need to break some eggs to make an omelet. An old engine needs new rings anyway. Just be careful on a stuck engine that had a large re-bore at one time, the cylinder walls are very thin and they too, could crack and break through under a very heavy strain. I would worry about bending a rod too, if the "big bar" is used too hard. One good method to un-stick pistons is to use a 50-50 mixture of acetone and A.T.V., but it will only work at it's best if you cover the affected area with something like a cut up old inner tube or even saran wrap to trap the solvent's working powers in where you need them. Best of luck, Pete.
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Well, I'm probably going to catch Hell from everyone here on the forum, but I think you can start the engine work without pulling the thing out. Get front end "up". Drop the oil pan, INSPECT... take your time and get the stuck piston/s out. Inspect the pistons. Buy new rings for them. HONE out the rusty cylinders. A good time to inspect worthiness of the oil pump. Check out the condition of the main bearings. Advance Auto has a tool rental program that can't be beat! It's FREE. Leave a deposit and bring the tool back when you feel like it. I needed a cylinder ridge cutter and brought it back the next day just out of respect for the next guy. They have cylinder hone tools too. Even if you need all new pistons with fitted pins, it shouldn't cost more than 100 bucks. Remove the valves and INSPECT all valve train parts. Keep everything in order. Just keep repeating, "This is FUN".
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Thanks for the interior pictures! Time and money is a real issue with me and I had a rough interior on a '31 Ford pick up a few years ago. I have a thought for your Dodge interior. Good 'ole J.C. Whitney was selling(not too long ago), headliner kits for older cars. They were very inexpensive. LeBaron Bonney Co. in Amesbury, Ma. will sell anybody any of their interior products. Luckily for me, they have the early Ford interiors made up as kits which I bought at a bargain price and my wife and I reupholstered the springs and did all the panels and so on. It came out very nice. Only needed a tack hammer and hog-ring pliers, scissors,etc... You have pretty good door panels for a pattern. L.B. will sell the backing board and your choice of material gets cut out and edges folded over and glued. cut holes afterwards for the handles when you're sure where the panel will exactly go onto the door frame. Clips are available. As far as the seat cushions, dowse them with plenty of alcohol out of a gallon can and let them really dry well, out in the August sun. Spray them with Febreze, or the like. Safety pin a pair of Southwestern Indian blankets over them and DRIVE. Worry about carpets or mats LATER. One of these days, I'm going to need a new folding top on my '25 Dodge touring. I am NOT looking forward to that.
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1930, You're the guy with the A&P. 120MM, keep plugging along---One thing I noticed in 120mm's pictures of the top of the block with head gasket, The gasket itself-- where it lays on the block, it seems the fire rings of gasket are exceptionally close together, telling me this engine has been bored out to it's max. I don't really remember if my '37 or '39 Plymouth head gasket fire rings being that close together, one was std. bore and the other was .040 over. Oversize head gaskets are purchased for larger size cylinders in many flat head engines, not only for a over-bore, but for heads that have had serious grinding done to them, either multiple grinds, or badly warped heads. If the head gasket is smaller than the cyl. bore, the piston will hit it. I would beg, borrow or steal an inside micrometer, or a "T" handle adjustable std. tool and find out what the story is with this block. It may be no good if it's a "run-out" and needs re boring. With a little bit of work, I think the engine is OK, bar no cracks in the cast iron, but they can be fixed too.
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Just a quick note, Evaporust works only on rust where there is NO oil or grease. It won't work through an oil film, I found that out! There is a product, found on-line in spray cans called "Gibbs Oil". They guarantee to un stick ANY rusted engine, it works! but one MUST follow their directions to the letter and seal the coated area with a rubber sheet or similar material for it to do it's thing. 120MM, I got my A&P license back in 1980, so one A&P to another, I know you've got the patience!
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Now would be the time to do a valve job, at least. Buy a new copper/asbestos head gasket and new head bolts. Use some anti-seize compound on the threads when replacing the bolts. Find the torque values and follow the tightening pattern. Spray the new head gasket with Ultra-Copper when installing it. Make sure you get the head "planed", or surfaced by a competent machine shop, should cost around $65. - $75. clean top of block and check very closely for any cracks especially on the exhaust valve seats and in between the cylinders. You may need to go further and pull the pan and remove pistons to check bore and rings. Now would be the time. Keep all parts in order the way they came out and their placement in engine. Don't reuse any gaskets. Go on and get that water pump rebuilt, they always seem to let go when you're least expecting it. I could go on and on, but I'll let you ask the questions. Best, Pete.
Buick Sweetness
in Buick - Pre War
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Larry, your daughter-in-law is PRECIOUS! and TALENTED. Reminds me one birthday for my brother-in-law, who loved to borrow my tools and keep them for ages. I bought a sheet cake and with a tube of blue stuff, I wrote in very nice script, "Mike, where's my damn compressor?" He loved it, so he said. Got my comp. back the next day.---Thanks for your post Larry,--- Pete the ole' grump.