Pete K.
-
Posts
724 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by Pete K.
-
-
They used to measure the entire overall diameter of tire.Not just the bead size. With the few large rim sizes for sale today, we go by the tread width,(5.25, 6.50...etc...) And the rim size. In your case, 21" rims. Rims are not measured overall diameter but measured where the tire bead sits in the rim. Try a truck tire store. They may have something you like, if they still have the old tube tires!
-
I need to find a good glue to attach rubber runningboard material to painted wooden runningboards. Thanks
This is just a thought, I sometimes use "Weldwood" brand contact cement. I would just brush on a 3/4" strip around the perimeter of the running board and the matting, follow the bottle's directions, and it should do you well. I don't think you need to put a full layer of glue over the whole surfaces, but this is just an opinion. good luck, Pete.
-
Just be very careful working around car batteries, they give off hydrogen gas which is VERY explosive so no cigars or sparks, especially when you have the battery caps off. Some batteries you can get the date off the label when it was new. It may be past it's useful life, but try it anyway, fill the cells with distilled water, you may get that out of a dehumidifier drain bucket, fill the cells just above the plates and hook up a trickle charger to it, mind the polarity! give a day, try the starter.
-
Check the parts manual, or some kind of exploded view to verify there is not a clamping collar, or some sort of locking mechanism to help secure the rear hubs to axle other than the large nut! IF it is SIMPLY a press fit on a tapered axle shaft with a key, and you've removed the nut, I've had luck tapping the inside of the rear tire, (still mounted to the wheel), with a large rubber hammer. Rotate wheel while doing this and have patience doing this. They can be very ornery to get them off because of rust and old, hardened grease. I wish I could tell you where to secure a puller for your rear hubs, but I do not know. Perhaps a local club or another Oakland car collector? Be careful when the hub finally breaks loose, it may want to slide off axle in a hurry and possible thread damage could occur from the steel hub. I cover the threads with heavy tape when I do this.
-
It's a '31 Chevy-- The '31 Pontiac's had a different body moulding along the doors, below the windows. If the fenders haven't been filled in, the openings on top for the front fender lights aren't there either for the '31 Pontiac.
-
Hey Erndog, did you notice the car that has the sign on it? A '30 Buick. I'm looking at this great photo and fantasizing about walking up to one of those guys to ask whether I can pull off the bumperettes and maybe the heat riser parts. I wonder if some of those old scrapyards had a shed full of radiator ornaments and badge bars??
-
Mike, VERY, VERY nice! What color are you planning to give the old girl? Could you please tell me what make tires you're running? Are your disc wheels 21"'s? I've still got the 21" rims with the wood wheels, but have a complete set of disc wheel set up that came with car, including the drums, different spare tire mount with the bronze "DB" center medallion. It looks like you're really having a blast tooling around in the Dodge! I wish I was as close as you to getting a running car, but I'm working on it. Best regards, Pete.
-
John, I'm sometimes confused on what's original and what's a very old replacement or restored on my Dodge touring. I'm sure of one thing is the top was replaced a LONG time ago, and now it really needs a new one, but it will have to do since it's not in the budget. My top strap hooks look like something you would find in an old hardware store in the 1950's. I don't think they've changed much since then either. They do hook onto small rectangular slotted tabs behind the rear seat. All the wood and metal top bows are original. My Dodge's serial # is A 388850, a series 1925, 12 volt car, with a series date of mid July, 1926. I seem to recall Packard used the same "series" designations for their cars too. I'm beginning to think the same as you concerning Dodge building two identical cars!
-
AH... Those hooks! Here's what's been holding the top straps in my '25 for many years by the look of them. The only trouble is... they're not sheet metal! About the top saddles, yes, Myers Dodge Parts does sell the split shaft parts---for the ORIGINAL top saddles, which are not reproduced. I am in the process of making special arms for the Dodge body sockets and using adjustable aftermarket iron and leather saddles with leather straps for the replacement of the large iron top saddles. They are not the Dodge originals, but they'll work and look pretty good too. They won't cost so much either, nor come with rust pits.
-
Welcome John! I just found my '25 touring about 2 months ago, been very busy with it too, getting it cleaned up and so forth. I believe the "special" models had the parking lights on cowl, with plated rims and plated front and rear bumpers. Radiator shell would be plated instead of black paint too. I don't think the strips you speak of are Dodge Brothers accessories, I take it they are vertical strips on the rear of the body? I've seen them on other makes of old cars. As far as the top strap tie downs, do mean the iron brackets that mount to the outer body to hold the top bows? (when the top is lowered.) They can be very allusive parts to procure! You can read my past posts here on this forum to verify what you may be referring to as "top saddles". I'm in the process of making new, replacement brackets and saddles now, for the '25 and other years, including the roadsters. Also, I was under the impression that the '25 Dodges had 21 inch wheels, compared to your 20" disc wheels. I suppose it doesn't really make that much difference, if they're nice and straight wheels, "use 'em!" I would...Best regards, Pete.
-
Vergil, I'm in the EXACT same boat. My '25 had a thin gasket under the glass and a thick paper type gasket on the top of the brass part of gauge. I did not see a gasket under the gauge unit to the tank, but feel it should have one there. The thin gasket that I got from Myers Dodge Parts must go under the glass, the thick rubber one must go on the gauge face. The third thick rubber gasket seems awfully thick to go under the gauge unit on the tank. Are we missing something here???
-
Great progress! I know a lot of work has gone into the job you've done so far. I like that shade of green that Dodge and you used on chassis, and those shackle parts ARE well worn! I think many old cars' spring shackles get like that from lack of grease getting all the way through the bushings, plus the fact of high friction, stress and age. Thank goodness we can still get new ones. Keep us posted on your work!, Best, Pete.
-
Can anyone who owns an early Dodge Brothers "open car" PLEASE tell me if your touring or roadster has the 3/4" body socket holes with the two notches I described in the above post?? They are angled towards the rear, about 45 degrees angle to the side plane of cars' body. If you think you may want a set of my new brackets in the future, now is the time to tell me, since I won't be remaking them after the first run.
-
In my original '25 Dodge, there is a pair of notches in the outer end of the 3/4" diameter body socket tube at the 12 and 6 o'clock position. The notches are 7/16" wide X 1/8" deep, approximately. I don't see by the photo of the Myer's arm, posted above, how it locks into the body socket. The tapered part in the middle seems to be reversed, and where are the "key" sections that would fit into the body socket notches? This locks the arm in place so as the whole saddle assembly doesn't turn. I'm assuming the saddle casting, or rather forging, has the proper angle built in, since the body socket holes are about at a 45 degree angle towards the rear, and the Myers arm is straight.
-
Here's a few pictures of the arm, showing the "keyed" end and two views of the arm in the body sockets on left and right side of car. I'm waiting on the saddle parts, on order. The saddle parts I'm referring to cost about $34.00 for iron saddles and leather belts. The main top bow, when folded down, measures 3-1/4" to 3-1/2" to the center of the saddle from body socket. The saddle will be adjustable on the arm. The leather strap will be fed through the bows and fastened with a nickel plated buckle. I want the arms to be made from steel, using a CNC machine, since they will need to be strong. The arms will be easily installed or removed from car, perhaps easier than the originals, since no wedges are used to fumble with, get lost or strip out.
-
Rich, You may not even need a puller. Take a large RUBBER head hammer, and beat the back of the tire while it is still mounted to wheel, around the perimeter of the back of the tire, sort of evenly. If the spokes are too broken or fragile, try a pine 2X4, about 1-1/2 feet long, directed at a spot on the rear wheel and hit it with a heavy hammer. I'm not sure, but the rear wheels used a special puller that threaded onto the hub, using the hubcap threads. There's not much meat behind the threads for a jaw type puller to grab, or even a two piece "collar" puller. Anyway, I've had good luck in the past with the "big rubber hammer" scene. They're stuck from age and the tightness of the rear wheel nut, when you put it on, I think it should be around 100 foot pounds torque, but check to make sure about that. Good luck, Pete.
-
Well, I've gone ahead and done it! This thread is not a complete, headline news story, YET. As most may know, I have 1925 Dodge touring car, with no top saddle hardware. Many owners are missing these too. I plan to lower the top in nice weather! Some never do. I now have a mock-up prototype saddle stud that will fit both sides of the body. It is secured by one 1/4"x 20 NC hex head screw and washer on the inside of body. It is keyed to lock into the body socket, made at an angle, since the body socket is almost at a 45 degree angle, rearward, to the side of the car. The protruding end will accept a black iron saddle with a set screw, leather liner, with black leather belt straps, as Ford used in the mid twenties. Overall length of the new studs is 5-1/2". I KNOW... these are NOT what the originals looked like-- BUT they'll WORK. My prints are done for the parts, I'm in contact with a local machine shop to do the job. I have no idea what it will cost me yet. The first set will be extensively tested. If ANY of you feel you may want a set, LET ME KNOW! The shop will make up sets of them while they are in progress making mine---I'm not going to get rich selling these---Just want to break even and help some of us out. But be patient, it may take a while. Best to all, Pete.
-
Mike, I've not had the time yet to pull the rear wheels off my '25. I need to know also when I read the parts list of the vendors about the "six" felts. I'm still prepping the engine and fuel system for the first start up in many years.---Pete.
-
Mike, I don't think silver solder would stand up against time. A few little tack welds with a wire feed welder would work, but I'm unclear exactly what you do have and don't have as far as anything original to the entire choke assembly. Yes, I'm willing to sell either choke assembly pictured in my post above. they're rusty, but OK, they slide in & out, I first have to measure the complete one on my Dodge, to verify I've got the right length remaining of these cables. The worst scenario is having to replace the inner wire--not a big deal to do.
-
Mike, Here's a picture of the two different Dodge choke cables I have. The '25 has a steel ferrule that threads onto the end which secures the spiral cable end to the body. the other, probably a '22 or '23, shows the assembly pulled apart, showing how the spiral cable is inserted first, in body, then knob with inner wire. Each spiral end of cable is carefully enlarged to act as a flared end to secure it in choke knob bodies. The last picture shows the "special clip" to hold the choke cable to the carburetor. I plan to post my original gas gauge sending unit soon for anyone wanting to try and copy it in their home workshop.
-
Hey Mike, You're WAY ahead of me now, and my '25 is not in pieces! I'm aiming at the mid summer for first start up. I'm still using lacquer thinner to soak insides of my gas tank since I believe it had an old sealer in there that's been compromised. I checked my other "good" spare Dodge tank I picked up from the huge parts load I got with the Dodge and found it has an off-set filler-to-gauge orientation - not like the '25! where they are right next to each other. That tank also has a heavy, threaded gas cap, unlike the '25 that uses a bayonette type cap. I haven't made too much progress on making my top saddle parts, although I've been still in the "engineering mode" for them. The original saddles I have are for a '22 Dodge roadster. I won't be using them.I'd like to see them go to an owner of that car that needs them. The '25 touring saddle post hole in body has a 45 degree angle towards the rear, as you know. The original saddles had a cast-in, off-set to match that angle, so that the saddle was oriented straight to body sides when bolted onto the "arm". I was hoping to procure some repro arms from Snyder's Ford parts in Ohio, whether being Model T, or Model A arms, and modifying them, but the "new" arms need to have the notches to mate up in the Dodge body holes so they don't rotate when installed. I need to call and ask Don Snyder if his Ford arms are bendable and weldable. Cast arms will not work for this modification. The arms need to be 1/2" diameter at the end where his top saddles bolt onto them. These will be using the leather belt straps to hold top bows down on saddles rather than original big, cast iron clamp type saddles Dodge used. Anyway, that's my thoughts on them! Mike, do you still need pictures of your choke cable assembly under hood? I found two orig. Dodge choke assemblies here. The one on my '25 is OK. The only thing that can go wrong with them is the inner wire breaking, usually at carb.-- I'll just replace that wire--no big deal there.
-
BJM, Your Kaiser is a good car to restore! All the above posts are worthy too. You may consider sending the pieces to a plater to polish them. I would imagine it would only be half the cost of getting them plated over. I've had luck with a place called "Courtesy Metal Polishing" in Villa Park, Ill. Victor was the lead man there as I remember. They're very reasonable and have a fast turn around time.--Pete.
-
Ray, I don't have a parts book either. The quadrant and levers are all kept on with oval head and fillister head screws, the main body of the upper casting assembly is in question on how that is fastened to column. A wire comes up from inner bottom of column, fastened by a set screw at top, where the horn collector ring is attached to that wire for horn. The Bakelite collector ring simply sits there,under wheel hub, held in place by a notch in the Bakelite ring and the upper body casting. The wheel is held on by a twin keyed upper shaft and large hex nut. The horn button is spring loaded and made of Bakelite. Coolie24, I'm sorry your thread has been high-jacked-- If I had a '36 horn button, I'd give it to you.--Pete.
-
Ray, I think the '26 had the rubber composite wheel with this button. The '25 and earlier had the wood wheels. I could be wrong on the wheel material dates but I'm pretty sure your's would have this button. Sorry it's not been cleaned up atall.
Need help with parts pick up - CA
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
Posted
Just a thought, If it gets down to the wire, try the Model A Ford guys on "Fordbarn" Forum. I know there must be an "A" owner in that area and most are great guys that will help anyone out with any kind of old car or parts.