Pete K.
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Posts posted by Pete K.
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Bill, I must have been born blond!
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I don't get it.
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Hi Mike, I hope these help you--Pete.
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Mike, Here's two photo's ---first pic is with the spark & throttle lever all the way down. Second is the levers all the way up. I hope you can make out what's what in my rats nest, still un-cleaned and mostly original, unmolested engine compartment. If you need a closer photo of a part involved with the linkages, let me know..., Pete.
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Mike, I've had great results from a product available most auto stores, it's called "Seafoam".
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Mike, Something's telling me your fuel level is OK in the in-line filter you've got. The original vacuum system probably only bleeds a small portion of engine vacuum to the Stewart tank, or rather the valve system in the Stewart tank is needing a portion of engine vacuum to trickle the fuel into vacuum tank as needed, thereby, system does not require a "return line" to rear tank. As long as your vacuum tank fills the lower chamber with fuel for the gravity portion of system to the carb, you're all set. I hope this explains why your in line filter is not filling all the way up.---Pete.
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Mike, I don't see any trace of the cowl area that you ask of had any kick panels on them. I'm kind of surprised at this finding since even the old Fords had kick panels there.
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Thanks karasmer! That's exactly what I'll do. I do have some wood bleach here, they label it as "Oxalic acid".---Pete.
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I don't mind the smell of shellac, or just about anything else in reason, but this stuff is THE WORST. Jason, I'd be shot if I tried to pass this off as "shine"--Here's a photo of the "real McCoy"--Note how it is crystal clear.I'm thinking of selling my copper still, Do you want a new vocation? I hear there's good money in it. Anyway, my gas tank is also full of chunks too, I'm trying to get time today to start the cleaning process. I'm not going to use a sealer at the end, albeit no pin holes, From what I'm reading here on the forum, I'm not sure what the future holds for other fuel additives that could destroy a sealer.
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Here's a photo of the 1925 touring car rear compartment showing the rear seat cushion out, and the rusty steel inner base, from mice-- luckily, only surface damage, but there is no extra parts to support the seat cushion, whereas it sits in the steel recess supported by it's own perimeter seat spring edge. The heel part of rear floor has two riveted tabs able to turn them, to hold or release the rear floor board. Any trace of original matting, rubber or fabric is gone, I'm holding up a replacement ribbed floor mat put in years ago. There are many "punch tabs" in lower front seat metal frame, rear, that held some kind of a panel, long gone. It would have gone about 1/3rd up the back from rear floor. The second photo is the driver's side floor-to-cowl welting, I believe it to be original. The pass. side welting is gone.
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Well, it seems these days, everybody that has a 1920's Dodge is pulling off their fuel tanks for clean out and repairs. This now includes me, which was on my recent find near my home, the '25 touring. I knew there wasn't much of any fuel in the tank, that I could determine and I felt very lucky that the drain screw came out OK, it's a 3/8" hex head, and found it to be a steel tapered plug. When I removed it, only a slight drip - drip --- SO.. I took a nail to the tiny opening, and GOOSH! The worst smelling, foul liquid spewed out, quickly filling the coffee can I had in my other hand. Back went the drain screw to halt Hell's Fluid, of course it went right down my arm and into my sweatshirt sleeve. Off to locate a bigger can! I was amazed that the tank strap nuts came loose so easy, I had sprayed the threads earlier with Liquid Wrench, still a long process with a 9/16" box wrench. Not enough room above the strap screws for a socket wrench. Got tank off car, with it laying on my belly, as I am on my back on floor, under car. I can see this will really be FUN putting this back in place! I will build a stand for this job. I removed the gauge bezel OK, out came the fuel sending unit, complete with original cork float, all rusted into one dark brown glob. The photo is of a "clear" plastic jar with some of the "fluid" (it's no longer gasoline)- that I drained out of tank. And this is held up to the light!!
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Thanks 1930, I got a kick out of it.
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Try swapping out your condenser.
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Yup, I have a '31 Ford Model A, Your rear axles have '35 Ford 16" wire wheels on it. Originally the '31 Ford had 19" rims. The emergency brake carrier is gone from the brake ass'y too. I still love to find elderly iron in the woods, but getting very scarce these days.
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The grease line to the throw out bearing greases the inner race of the bearing that it slides on the transmission input tube. Some throw out bearing cages,the old type, had a small opening to catch some of the grease to be introduced to the bearings. As was stated, if the throw out bearing was replaced in the last 40 years or so, It would be the sealed type.
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Thanks "B"!, So far I'll have to go with your identity of this little guy as being non-Dodge. I've looked again and can't seem to find anything like a bracket that appears to have been mounted to the lamp body.---Pete.
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VERY nice Bill- Keep up the great work! Looks like you've got lots of room to work too, wish I did!
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Hi Bill, you may be right, I'm not too savvy about the earlier Dodges, since I'm still learning about my own '25. Just because it was in a box of Dodge parts, I guess that's no proof atall it may be a Dodge lamp. It really is a strange one to me too. P.S.-- I used to spend summers at my great grandma's house over in Marked Tree! just east of you in Poinsett County!--Best regards, Pete
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Here's another one guys, I found this single bulb, two lens lamp among some early Dodge parts,(1921-1924). I'm wondering what it went to, If Dodge or not. Notice there is a small hole on one side where some kind of bracket was. The white lens is slightly larger than the red lens. Both glass lenses have a beehive pattern in them. To get at the bulb, one must pull a snap ring out from white lens end, whereas, white lens will come off. What's really strange, is that the base stanchion has a pin that can travel in a slot, to move lamp about 30 degrees, back and forth. It is NOT a removable bayonet fitting.
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Saw your question and thought I'd throw in these photo's of my '25 Dodge windshield/ to cowl fit to show that little gap you were talking about. Maybe it's just the rubber that makes it look different, I don't know... but I don't think there was a difference between the two years. I do know I wish I had nice wind-wings like the pair on your Dodge.--Someday---
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You are correct. Thank you. I spent some time staring at those so-called indentations and I now believe there were the male clips once on there. The little slits that the fastener prongs would have had are almost completely closed up, but it just has to be! When I folded the panel to where it would be fastened to itself, I cannot for the life of me believe this was a pouch for all the side curtains for this touring bodied car. It's just not large enough. I also believe it was not for a jack. Some of us now think it was for the booklets that came with the car. This is certainly a possibility. Thanks again!!!--Pete
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Mr. White, I really think you may be on to something with your idea of a cover pouch for booklets. I've read where there were booklets included with every new '25 Dodge which at least included the Book Of Information, the folding top instructions, jacking instructions, and a booklet of accessories, which would have info on the Budd-Michelin disc wheels,etc...Could be even more. The under side of my Dodge's front seat IS grimy, yet I see no fasteners(yet), for the edge of the panel to fasten to. The center section measures 10" X 16" when the "flaps" are folded in.
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It doesn't take too much detective work to gauge the age of my Stop-Glare visors. If you expand my photo of the original paper instructions, you will see a Boston phone number that dates it prior to 1928--but, just notice the picture in top left corner of the paper work of the visor on an open touring car's windshield frame, with an early-mid twenties car coming towards him with headlamps a-glaring. They look great on the '25 Dodge now! Sorry, these are a "keeper"----Pete.
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Dear Mr. White, I've searched all over here for ammeters, whereas I've got most gauges sorted into one area.---Not one "white faced" ammeter! Was it just like the black faced ones, only reversed "negative" white for black? Are they same diameter?, 2-3/16" (U.S. measure) patent date on the one I have here is; Oct. 7, '19. Marked Dodge Brothers, with Indian head logo. Nickel plated bezel, black face.---Sorry---Pete.
Split ring removal
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
Posted
Doug, I'm not really sure if you're asking about truck type split rims with the separate rings, or the passenger type split rims. First and most importantly, make sure all air is out of tire. The passenger type split rim has a lock tab that can be turned with a hefty tool, enough to clear the split in the rim. Work the tire bead over one side of the rim at a time while trying to "collapse" the rim inwards. Sort of in a spiral attempt. A special tool was made to pull in at three points on the rim, using arms with hooks, adjusted by a crank in center not unlike an old auto jack workings. I've seen other types too, in sort of a long, double-rod design, with hex nuts as the medium for length adjustment. Without this kind of tool for these split rims on the passenger cars, it's sort of like wrestling alligators.