Pete K.
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Posts posted by Pete K.
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An educated guess on torque for the cast iron head/block would be around 55 foot Lbs. on each stud nut.
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Ahhh! YES John! Now light dawns on Marblehead. So very close to what soledadsp is showing. I think you've just nailed it (Again).
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By gum! luvtheclassics, you may be right about your observations about the switch not being Dodge. Could it be Graham truck? The fuse holder is really throwing me on this one.
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I was thinking of some type of a "friction shock" shock absorber, either an old kit-car, aftermarket or not even U.S. auto adaption.
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That goes for me too!
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Early Dodge Brothers cars for one.
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Early Buicks had the front dump exhaust too, for years. TexRiv_63, Look on the bright side. Your front dump exhaust helps keep a lot of heat away from your feet through floorboards in the Summer and I think you may be missing your engine's splash apron to separate the carb from the exhaust pipe, along with other reasons to have the splash aprons in place.
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Mike, I checked mine on the '25 Dodge and I must confess, It is one spot I have yet to get to for restoration/ inspection. Seems there is a hex drive Zerk there, probably replaced years ago. I noticed the fender/apron flange has been bent outwards a bit where the original fitting would have crossed paths there while turning the wheel to far left. A very interesting topic!
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That is very interesting! The build date of the original car was mid March of 1925 having serial# A-284123. It appears someone knew what they were doing to customize the poor thing. Quite a high price as car would really need a thorough going over, but it is really unique. I can't quite recognize the body they used. Could it be a Topolino?
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Ray, I've heard some good things about the KBS coatings that you spoke of.---Dave W., You are most likely correct, factory never painted the exhaust manifolds. I just see very old paint jobs on old car's manifolds. Jack, the ceramic coatings were applied on some US car's manifolds of the '20's and '30's, as you know. Packard was one of them. It was a dark brown color. Sure was PURDY. It stood up extremely well too. I had one from 1927. Someone in Hemmings offered the re-process at one time. Don't know if they're still around. Who's to say one couldn't do that to an early Dodge? I've seen A LOT worse things done!
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I haven't painted my '25 Dodge manifold yet, but other old car manifolds I've done with a "cast iron colored" heat proof paint that looked pretty well. Different places sell it, Eastwood for one, as well as some local places now, I think. Black just doesn't look right and silver is too bright for my semi-original Dodge. I believe Dodge painted them silver from the factory, but that is my opinion.
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Ray, I'm in the process of hooking up an old potbelly stove in barn to take the place of the kerosene heat. Prices keep going up on fuel, as you are well aware of. Luckily, I do have gas to the house, quite affordable too. I still use the original kitchen range installed in 1925 to take the place of the old wood/coal burner that was there. I hope I had it clean when I took the photo of it. I'm in a very old neighborhood, as you can see I took a shot out my front door sometime back on a sleepy, warm August afternoon. By the way.. I am searching for an extra tail light bracket around here for your Dodge. So far, I've found a couple that are similar, but not '25 Dodge.
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Ray, I hope the chicken coop is not near the cats.
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Thanks John, That does explain it.
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I was thinking the same thing Ray. I thought the bullet buckets were on the Chryslers of the day, later on the Dodges. Someone on the Forum here must know about the lights.
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Sorry John, I've checked every piece of sheet metal in my "collection" and nothing even remotely can be seen. Good hunting!
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I know what you mean Ray. I'm down to my last two frozen chickens. Just what exactly are you doing with those cats?
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This is very interesting! Car does appear to be the right era, SAME mirror frame with the radiused frame around the glass, but a whole different mounting bracket onto the windshield. The previous posted pictures show the same mounting bracket as mine, only someone's may be upside- down. I may leave mine on the way I found it since it makes more sense to have more driver view out the windshield without the mirror in the line of sight. I still can't see in the picture if the mirror glass is plain or smoked. I wonder if the seller would mind if I called him and asked. Thank you Jay!
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Even if I have 4 cups of coffee, it takes me half the afternoon to change a tire from the rim.
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If there's a leak, even a tiny one, STP will come out too, only slower but a pain to wipe up. Sort of like cold honey. I'm not familiar with the name 'Mechanic's" Universal joint and it's seals you describe but you may have to find replacement seals for it. Have you tried Myers Dodge parts? Romar's? Perhaps Hemmings Motor News? Also try looking into "Cornhead grease" It may not channel out like other grease will. Found in most tractor/farm supply places. Model A Fords have a grease fitting on the universal housing--and that's what they took--grease. I would still check any original literature you may have or find, to what actually belongs in there.
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No to politics Ray, but you can call me "The Reverend". A non profit church, based on antique autos.
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Yes Ron, It's on it's way. But then again, so is Spring time.
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Yes Ray, A quote from my book, "Pete's Mekanknuckle Wonderments" Vol. 3, of a two volume set.
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If it's any help, The Model A Ford rear hubs should be 100-125 ft.lbs. Most all old cars of this era had about the same tightness on the rear hub nut. Don't think you'll find wheel nut torque values in the original booklets. Back then, they had 1) loose, 2)tight, 3)very tight and 4) Tighter than Hell. Number 4 is what a rear hub nut will need. Torque values seem to be limited to the engine spec's. Please correct me if I'm wrong.----Pete.
Hand Horn - Automotive?
in What is it?
Posted
These horns were used on early trucks, usually pre- 1920. Before generators or even batteries. Power for plugs was from a magneto. Hand crank start. Lighting was gas and/or kerosene. Horns were mechanical. Cars of that era would have polished brass "bulb horns", cheaper cars did have painted mechanical horns too. The "T" handle appears to be welded on at a later date.